Detergents Health Dictionary

Detergents: From 1 Different Sources


Substances which clean the skin surface. This means that, strictly speaking, any soap, or soap-like substance used in washing, is a detergent. At the present day, however, the term is largely used for the synthetic detergents which are now used on such a large scale. These are prepared by the cracking and oxidation of high-petroleum waxes with sulphuric acid. The commoner ones in commercial preparations are aryl alkyl sulphate or sulphonate and secondary alkyl sulphate.

In view of their widespread use, such detergents appear to cause relatively little trouble with the skin, but more trouble has been reported with the so-called ‘biological’ detergents – named because they contain an ENZYME which destroys protein. As a result they are claimed to remove proteins (stains such as blood, chocolate, milk or gravy) which are relatively di?cult for ordinary detergents to remove. Unfortunately these ‘biological’ detergents may cause dermatitis. In addition, they have been reported to cause asthma in those using them, and even more so in workers manufacturing them.

Health Source: Medical Dictionary
Author: Health Dictionary

Eczema

The most common skin disease; recognised by minute blisters (vesicles) which fill with colourless fluid and burst leaving the skin cracked, scaly and weepy with possible bleeding. Successful treatment depends upon recognising the type and distribution. Partly a metabolic imbalance.

Atopic eczema. Allergic eczema. May run in families together with hay fever, asthma or inflamed nasal membrane. May appear anywhere but prefers elbows, knees (flexures), ankles or face. Often seen in infants. May return again and again throughout adult life. Scratching exacerbates.

As regards babies, some paediatricians believe breast-feeding to be protective. A stronger case follows investigation into pollutants from the atmosphere or as additives in food. Industrial chemicals find their way into breast milk that may not be easily excreted but stored in fat.

Cow’s milk is particularly suspect because of exposure of the animal to herbicides and pesticides. For this reason, goat’s milk has met with some success in treatment of this condition, as has Soya milk. Now known that food plays an important part in effective treatment. Chief allergy-stimulators: dairy produce, eggs, cow’s milk. Each individual case must identify those foods that are responsible.

Seborrhoeic eczema leads to scaling of the scalp and redness of the ears, eyebrows, side of the nose and possibly armpits and groin.

Stasis eczema (or varicose eczema) may arise from varicose vein problems, usually limited to the lower third of the leg.

Discoid eczema has coin-shaped patches preferring extensor surfaces of arms and legs.

Contact eczema may be caused by washing-up detergents, etc. See: CONTACT DERMATITIS.

While emotional or psychic disturbance may worsen, eczema is seldom a psychosomatic disorder arising from stressful situations. Contact with water may worsen. Hairdressers and those allergic to dyes may require patch tests.

Eczema patients, especially atopic, have a metabolic deficiency of linoleic acid (a dietary fatty acid) to y-linolenic acid, which is found in Evening Primrose oil. Eczema may develop in bottle-fed babies due to absence of GLA (gamma-linolenic acid) in commercial powdered milk. GLA is present in Evening Primrose.

A cross-over trial in 99 patients (adults and children) by Bristol (England) dermatologists found Evening Primrose oil (Efamol capsules) produced an overall 43 per cent improvement in eczema severity: doses – 4 to 6 capsules twice daily (adults); 2 capsules twice daily (children). Lower doses were not effective.

Alternatives. Barberry, Bladderwrack, Blood root, Blue Flag root, Bogbean, Burdock, Clivers, Devil’s Claw, Echinacea, Figwort, Fringe Tree, Fumitory, Garlic, Guaiacum, Goldenseal, Mountain Grape, Gotu Kola, Nettles, Plantain, Poke root, Queen’s Delight, Red Clover, Sarsaparilla, Sassafras, Wild Indigo, Heartsease, Yellow Dock.

Tea. Combine herbs: equal parts: Gotu Kola, Clivers, Red Clover. 1-2 teaspoons to each cup boiling water; infuse 5-10 minutes; 1 cup thrice daily, before meals (Dry eczema).

Formula: equal parts, Burdock root, Yellow Dock root, Valerian root. Dose. Liquid Extracts, 1 teaspoon. Tinctures, 1-2 teaspoons. Powders, two 00 capsules or one-third teaspoon. Thrice daily, before meals. Practitioner: specific medication.

Dry eczema. Equal parts, tinctures: Yarrow, Dandelion, Calendula, Echinacea.

Weeping eczema. Combine tinctures: Barberry 1; Clivers 2; Echinacea 2.

Seborrhoeic eczema. Combine tinctures: Blue Flag root 1; Meadowsweet 2; Boneset 1.

Discoid eczema. Combine tinctures: Yellow Dock 2; Mountain Grape 1; Echinacea 1.

Varicose eczema. Combine tinctures: Echinacea 2; Calendula (Marigold) 1; Hawthorn 1.

Dosage for the above: One to two 5ml teaspoons in water thrice daily before meals.

Skin Care. May reduce necessity for steroid creams. It is best to avoid: lanolin and Coconut oil compounds that may contain coal tar. Wash in soft water (rain water) or water not containing chemical softeners.

Indicated: soothing softening herbal lotions, ointments or creams: Marshmallow, Chickweed, Comfrey, Witch Hazel, Aloe Vera gel, Jojoba oil, Evening Primrose oil. For seborrhoeic eczema: Bran Bath or Bran Wash, twice weekly, soapless, followed by Rosemary shampoo. Vitamin E lotion or cream.

Note: A study carried out at the University of Manchester, England, found that children with eczema had significantly low levels of serum zinc than control-cases. (British Journal of Dermatology, 1984, 111, 597)

Evening Primrose oil. For Omega 6 fatty acids.

Diet. Gluten-free. Oily fish: see entry. Avoid cow’s milk, wheat products.

Supplements. Daily. Vitamins: A (7500iu). C (500mg). E (400iu). Bioflavonoids (500mg). Zinc (15mg). Betaine hydrochloride.

Note: The disorder may be due to a deficiency of essential fatty acids (EFAs) brought about by a deficiency of zinc which is necessary for EFA metabolism.

Chinese herbs. A study has shown herbal treatment to be far superior to placebo in clinical trials. British children with (dry) atopic eczema responded favourably to treatment which included the following herbs known as Formula PSE101.

Ledebouriella sesloides, Potentilla chinesis, Anebia clematidis, Rehmannia glutinosa, Peonia lactiflora, Lophatherum gracile, Dictamnus dasycarpus, Tribulus terrestris, Glycyrrhiza uralensis, Schizonepta tenuifolia. Non-toxicity confirms their safety. (Sheeham M et al. “A controlled trial of traditional Chinese medicinal plants in widespread non-exudative atopic dermatitis”, British Journal of Dermatology, 126: 179-184 1992)

When 10 Chinese herbs were analysed by a team at the Great Ormond Street Hospital, London, it was revealed that no single active ingredient or herb was responsible for success. “It was a combination of all 10 herbs that gave the medicine its healing properties.” This is an example of the synergistic effect of combined plant remedies and supports the herbalist’s belief in use of the whole plant. ... eczema

Dermatitis

Inflammation of the skin, sometimes due to an allergy. Dermatitis is the same as eczema, and the terms can be used interchangeably.

Seborrhoeic dermatitis is a red, scaly, itchy rash that develops on the face, scalp, chest, and back. The rash often develops during times of stress and is probably caused by an excess growth of yeast on the skin. Corticosteroid drugs and/or drugs that kill microorganisms may help. Contact dermatitis results from a reaction to some substance that comes

in contact with the skin. Common causes are detergents, nickel, certain plants, and cosmetics. It may be treated with topical corticosteroids. A patch test (see skin tests) may be done to identify the cause. Photodermatitis occurs in people whose skin is abnormally sensitive to light. A cluster of spots or blisters occurs on any part of the body exposed to the sun (see photosensitivity). dermatitis artefacta Any self-induced skin condition. It may range from a mild scratch to extensive mutilation. dermatitis herpetiformis A chronic skin disease in which clusters of tiny, red, intensely itchy blisters occur in a symmetrical pattern, most commonly on the back, elbows, knees, buttocks, and scalp. It usually develops in adult life and is believed to be related to coeliac disease. dermatology The branch of medicine concerned with the skin and its disorders. dermatome An area of skin supplied with nerves by a pair of spinal nerve roots from the cervical (C2–C8), thoraci.

(T1–T12), lumbar (L1–L5), and sacral (S1–S5) regions.

The entire body surface is an interlocking pattern of dermatomes, which is similar from one person to another.

Abnormal sensation in a dermatome signifies damage to a particular nerve root, commonly due to a disc prolapse.... dermatitis

Chapped Hands

Chapped hands occur in cold weather, when reduced sweat and sebaceous activity leads to decreased natural protection of the skin. Prolonged immersion in soapy water, followed by exposure to cold air, results in cracking of the skin.

Prevention consists of minimising exposure to detergents and soapy water, and wearing rubber gloves for all routine household duties.... chapped hands

Skin, Diseases Of

They may be local to the SKIN, or a manifestation of systemic disorders – inherited or acquired. Some major types are described below.

Others appear under their appropriate alphabetical headings: ACNE; ALBINISM; ALOPECIA; ALOPECIA AREATA; APHTHOUS ULCER; BASAL CELL CARCINOMA; BOILS (FURUNCULOSIS); BOWEN’S DISEASE; CALLOSITIES; CANDIDA; CHEILOSIS; CHEIRAPOMPHOLYX; DANDRUFF; DERMATOFIBROMA; DERMATOMYOSITIS; DERMATOPHYTES; DERMOGRAPHISM; ECTHYMA; ERYSIPELAS; ERYTHEMA; ERYTHRASMA; ERYTHRODERMA; ESCHAR; EXANTHEM; FUNGAL AND YEAST INFECTIONS; HAND, FOOT AND MOUTH DISEASE; HERPES GENITALIS; HERPES SIMPLEX; HERPES ZOSTER; IMPETIGO; INTERTRIGO; KELOID; KERATOSIS; LARVA MIGRANS; LICHEN; LUPUS; MADURA FOOT; MELANOMA; MILIARIA; MOLLUSCUM CONTAGIOSUM; MOLE; MYCOSIS FUNGOIDES; NAEVUS; ORF; PEDICULOSIS; PEMPHIGUS; PHOTOCHEMOTHERAPY; PHOTODERMATOSES; PITYRIASIS; PORPHYRIAS; PRURITUS; PSORIASIS; RINGWORM; ROSACEA; SARCOIDOSIS; SCABIES; SCLERODERMA; URTICARIA; VITILIGO; WARTS; XANTHOMATA.

Skin cancer Primary cancer is common and chronic exposure to ultraviolet light is the most important cause. BASAL CELL CARCINOMA is the most common form; squamous cell carcinoma is less common and presents as a growing, usually painless nodule which may ulcerate. Squamous cancer may spread to regional lymph glands and metastasise, unlike basal cell cancer. Occupational exposure to chemical carcinogens may cause squamous carcinoma – for example, cancer from pitch warts or the scrotal carcinoma of chimney sweeps exposed to coal dust in earlier centuries. Squamous carcinoma of the lip is associated with clay-pipe smoking.

Cancer may arise from the population of melanocytes of the skin (see MELANOCYTE; MELANOMA).

Apart from these three most frequent forms of skin cancer, various forms of cancer can arise from cells of the dermis, of which LYMPHOMA is the most important (see also MYCOSIS FUNGOIDES).

Lastly, secondary deposits from internal cancer, particularly from the breast, may metastasise to the skin.

Dermatitis and eczema These are broadly synonymous, and the terms are frequently interchangeable. Eczema is a pattern of in?ammation with many potential causes. Dermatitis is commonly used to suggest an eczema caused by external factors; it is a common pattern of in?ammation of the skin characterised by redness and swelling, vesiculation (see VESICLE), and scaling with intense itching and often exudation (weeping). Fissuring, thickening (licheni?cation – see LICHEN) and secondary bacterial infection may follow. Dermatitis can affect any part of the body. It may be genetically detemined or due to other ‘internal’ factors, such as venous HYPERTENSION in a leg, or stress. Often it is ‘external’ in origin – due to strong irritants or chemical allergens. (See also ALLERGY; ALLERGEN.) ATOPIC DERMATITIS is genetic in origin and usually begins in infancy. It may persist for years, and ASTHMA, allergic RHINITIS and conjunctivitis (see under EYE, DISORDERS OF) – ‘hay fever’ – may be associated. Atopic children tend to have multiple allergies, especially to inhaled allergens such as house-dust mite, cat and dog dander and pollens. Allergy to foods is less common but potentially more dangerous, especially if to nuts, when it can cause acute URTICARIA or even ANAPHYLAXIS. Atopic subjects are particularly prone to persistent and multiple verrucae (see WARTS) and mollusca (see MOLLUSCUM CONTAGIOSUM) and to severe HERPES SIMPLEX infections. (See also ATOPY.)

EXFOLIATE DERMATITIS (PITYRIASIS RUBRA)

Generalised exfoliation and scaling of the skin, commonly with ERYTHEMA. Drugs may cause it, or the disorder may be linked with other skin diseases such as benign dermatoses and lupus erythematosus (see under LUPUS). SUMMER POMPHOLYX is an acute vesicular eczema of the palms and soles recurring every summer. Inhaled allergens are a frequent cause. VENOUS (STASIS) DERMATITIS begins on a lower calf, often in association with PURPURA, swelling and sometimes ulceration. Chronic venous hypertension in the leg, consequent on valvular incompetence in the deep leg veins owing to previous deep vein thrombosis (see VEINS, DISEASES OF), is the usual cause. NEURODERMATITIS A pattern of well-de?ned plaques of licheni?ed eczema particularly seen on the neck, ulnar forearms or sides of the calves in subjects under emotional stress. IRRITANT CONTACT DERMATITIS Most often seen in an industrial setting (occupational dermatitis), it is due to damage by strong chemicals such as cutting oils, cement, detergents and solvents. In almost all cases the hands are most severely affected. ALLERGIC CONTACT DERMATITIS, in contrast, can affect any part of the body depending on the cause – for example, the face (cosmetics), hands (plants, occupational allergens) or soles (rubber boots). Particularly common allergens include metals (nickel and chromate), rubber addititives, and adhesives (epoxy resins).

Treatment Avoidance of irritants and contact allergens, liberal use of EMOLLIENTS, and topical application of corticosteroid creams and ointments (see CORTICOSTEROIDS) are central.... skin, diseases of

Xeroderma

The term means dry skin. Normal skin may become dry when exposed to very low ambient humidity and is then vulnerable to irritation by soaps, detergents and other chemicals which cause ‘chapping’. Dryness of the skin may also be a feature of skin disease, especially atopic eczema (see ATOPY; DERMATITIS). Genetically determined xeroderma is called ICHTHYOSIS.... xeroderma

Dentifrice

A paste, powder, or gel used with a toothbrush to clean the teeth. It contains a mild abrasive, detergents, binding and moistening agents, thickening agents, colourings, flavourings, and usually fluoride.... dentifrice

Barrier Cream

a preparation used to protect the skin against water-soluble irritants (e.g. detergents, breakdown products of urine). Usually applied in the form of a cream or ointment and often containing a silicone (such as *dimeticone), barrier creams are useful in the alleviation of various skin disorders, including napkin rash and pressure sores.... barrier cream

Detergent

n. a synthetic cleansing agent that removes all impurities from a surface by reacting with grease and suspended particles, including bacteria and other microorganisms. Detergents are used for cleansing or as *antiseptics and *disinfectants.... detergent

Nappy Rash

An inflammatory skin disorder around the anus and genitals caused by urine reacting with faecal bacteria to produce ammonia. By nature it is a chemical ‘burn’ and is aggravated by monilia, a wet nappy, or detergents used to wash the nappy.

Causes: nappies sealed in plastic pants for hours on end. Eggs.

Seborrhoea is a common type.

Treatment. After soiling, the nappy area should be washed in warm water and powdered with cornflour (cornstarch); this may be used as a substitute for talcum powder for reducing friction. Nappy rash is rare in Greece where it is a mother’s habit to clean a baby’s soiled bottom with a stream of warm water from a mixer tap, holding the infant over the left arm in the washbasin, and washing with the right hand. Topical. Emollient herbal creams: Comfrey, Marshmallow, Chickweed, Slippery Elm, Aloe Vera, Marigold (Calendula). Evening Primrose oil. Zinc and Castor oil ointment. A paste made from Slippery Elm and teaspoon Vitamin E oil. Fresh juice of Plantain or Comfrey.

Tea Tree oil: 10 drops in glass warm water. Saturate handkerchief or sterile dressing and apply.

Diet. Slippery Elm gruel. Avoid eggs. ... nappy rash

Anise, Star

Illicium verum

FAMILY: Illiciaceae

SYNONYMS: Chinese anise, illicium, Chinese star anise.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: Evergreen tree up to 12 metres high with a tall, slender white trunk. It bears fruit which consist of five to thirteen seed-bearing follicles attached to a central axis in the shape of a star.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to south east China, also Vietnam, India and Japan. Mainly produced in China.

OTHER SPECIES: Several other related species, e.g. Japanese star anise which is highly poisonous!

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Used in Chinese medicine for over 1300 years for its stimulating effect on the digestive system and for respiratory disorders such as bronchitis and unproductive coughs. In the East generally, it is used as a remedy for colic and rheumatism, and often chewed after meals to sweeten the breath and promote digestion. A common oriental domestic spice.

ACTIONS: Antiseptic, carminative, expectorant, insect repellent, stimulant.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the fruits, fresh or partially dried. An oil is also produced from the leaves in small quantities.

CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow liquid with a warm, spicy, extremely sweet, liquorice like scent. It blends well with rose, lavender, orange, pine and other spice oils, and has excellent masking properties.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Trans-anethole (80–90 per cent).

SAFETY DATA: Despite the anethole content, it does not appear to be a dermal irritant, unlike aniseed. In large doses it is narcotic and slows down the circulation; it can lead to cerebral disorders. Use in moderation only.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Circulation Muscles And Joints: Muscular aches and pains, rheumatism.

Respiratory System: Bronchitis, coughs.

Digestive System: Colic, cramp, flatulence, indigestion.

Immune system: Colds.

OTHER USES: By the pharmaceutical industry in cough mixtures, lozenges, etc. and to mask undesirable odours and flavours in drugs. As a fragrance component in soaps, toothpaste and detergents as well as cosmetics and perfumes. Widely used for flavouring food, especially confectionery, alcoholic and soft drinks.... anise, star

Aniseed

Pimpinella anisum

FAMILY: Apiaceae (Umbelliferae)

SYNONYMS: Anisum officinalis, A. vulgare, anise, sweet cumin.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An annual herb, less than a metre high, with delicate leaves and white flowers.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to Greece and Egypt, now widely cultivated mainly in India and China and to a lesser extent in Mexico and Spain.

OTHER SPECIES: There are several different chemotypes of aniseed according to the country of origin. Not to be confused with star anise, which belongs to a different family altogether.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Widely used as a domestic spice. The volatile oil content provides the basis for its medicinal applications: dry irritable coughs, bronchitis and whooping cough. The seed can be used in smoking mixtures. Aniseed tea is used for infant catarrh, also flatulence, colic and griping pains, also for painful periods and to promote breast milk. In Turkey a popular alcoholic drink, raki, is made from the seed.

ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, diuretic, expectorant, galactagogue, stimulant, stomachic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the seeds.

CHARACTERISTICS: Colourless to pale yellow liquid with a warm, spicy-sweet characteristic scent. Like star anise, it is a good masking agent.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Trans-anethole (75–90 per cent).

SAFETY DATA: Its major component, anethole, is known to cause dermatitis in some individuals – avoid in allergic and inflammatory skin conditions. In large doses it is narcotic and slows down the circulation; can lead to cerebral disorders. Use in moderation only.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE See star anise.

OTHER USES: By the pharmaceutical industry in cough mixtures and lozenges and to mask undesirable flavours in drugs. Also used in dentifrices and as a fragrance component in soaps, toothpaste, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes, mostly of the industrial type. Employed in all major food categories.... aniseed

Balsam, Canadian

Abies balsamea

FAMILY: Pinaceae

SYNONYMS: A. balsamifera, Pinus balsamea, balsam fir, balsam tree, American silver fir, balm of Gilead fir, Canada turpentine (oil).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall, graceful evergreen tree up to 20 metres high, with a tapering trunk and numerous branches giving the tree an overall shape of a perfect cone. It forms blisters of oleoresin (the so-called ‘balsam’) on the trunk and branches, produced from special vesicles beneath the bark. The tree does not produce a ‘true’ balsam, since it does not contain benzoic or cinnamic acid in its esters; it is really an oleoresin, being a mixture of resin and essential oil.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to North America, particularly Quebec, Nova Scotia and Maine.

OTHER SPECIES: The hemlock spruce (Tsuga canadensis) also yields an exudation sold under the name of ‘Canada balsam’. There are also many other species of fir which produce oils from their needles – see entry on silver fir and Botanical Classification section. NB: Not to be confused with the genuine balsam of Gilead (Commiphora opabalsamum), of ancient repute.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The oleoresin is used extensively by the American Indians for ritual purposes and as an external treatment for burns, sores, cuts and to relieve heart and chest pains. It is also used internally for coughs.

ACTIONS: Antiseptic (genito-urinary, pulmonary), antitussive, astringent, cicatrisant, diuretic, expectorant, purgative, regulatory, sedative (nerve), tonic, vulnerary.

EXTRACTION: 1. The oleoresin is collected by punturing vesicles in the bark. 2. An essential oil is produced by steam distillation from the oleoresin, known as Canada balsam or Canada turpentine. (An essential oil is also produced by steam distillation from the leaf or needles, known as fir needle oil.)

CHARACTERISTICS: 1. The oleoresin is a thick pale yellow or green honeylike mass which dries to crystal clear varnish, with a fresh sweet balsamic, almost fruity odour. 2. A colourless mobile liquid with a sweet, soft-balsamic, pinelike scent. It blends well with pine, cedarwood, cypress, sandalwood, juniper, benzoin and other balsams.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Consists almost entirely of monoterpenes, pinene, phellandrene, esters and alcohols.

SAFETY DATA: Generally non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing. ‘In large doses it is purgative and may cause nausea.’4

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin Care: Burns, cuts, haemorrhoids, wounds.

Respiratory System: Asthma, bronchitis, catarrh, chronic coughs, sore throat.

Genito-Urinary System: Cystitis, genito-urinary infections.

Nervous System: Depression, nervous tension, stress-related conditions – described as ‘appeasing, sedative, elevating, grounding, opening’.5

OTHER USES: The oil from the oleoresin is used in certain ointments and creams as an antiseptic and treatment for haemorrhoids. Used in dentistry as an ingredient in root canal sealers. Also used as a fixative or fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfurmes. There is some low-level use in food products, alcoholic and soft drinks. The oleoresin is used as a medium in microscopy and as a cement in glassware.... balsam, canadian

Balsam, Copaiba

Copaifera officinalis

FAMILY: Fabaceae (Leguminosae)

SYNONYMS: Copahu balsam, copaiba, copaiva, Jesuit’s balsam, Maracaibo balsam, para balsam.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: Wild-growing tropical tree up to 18 metres high, with thick foliage and many branches. The natural oleoresin occurs as a physiological product from various Copaifera species. Not a ‘true’ balsam.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to north east and central South America. Mainly produced in Brazil; also Venezuela, Guyana, Surinam and Colombia.

OTHER SPECIES: Several Copaifera speices yield an oleoresin: the Venezuelan type ‘Maracaibo balsam’ has a low oil content, the Brazilian type ‘para balsam’ has a high oil content. See also Botanical Classification section.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Used for centuries in Europe in the treatment of chronic cystitis and bronchitis; also for treating piles, chronic diarrhoea and intestinal problems.

ACTIONS: Batericidal, balsamic, disinfectant, diuretic, expectorant, stimulant.

EXTRACTION: 1. The crude balsam is collected by drilling holes into the tree trunks; it is one of the most plentiful naturally occurring perfume materials. 2. An essential oil is obtained by dry distillation from the crude balsam. It is mainly the ‘para balsams’ with a high oil content (60–80 per cent), which are used for distillation.

CHARACTERISTICS: 1. The crude balsam is a viscous, yellowy-brown or greenish-grey liquid which hardens upon exposure to air with a mild, woody, slightly spicy odour. It blends well with styrax, amyris, lavandin, cedarwood, lavender, oakmoss, woods and spices. 2. The oil is a pale yellow or greenish mobile liquid with a mild, sweet, balsamic-peppery odour. It blends well with cananga, ylang ylang, vanilla, jasmine, violet and other florals.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly caryophyllene.

SAFETY DATA: Relatively non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization. Large doses cause vomiting and diarrhoea.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE:

DIGESTIVE SYSTEM: Intestinal infections, piles.

Respiratory System: Bronchitis, chills, colds, coughs, etc.

Genito-Rinary System: Cystitis.

Nervous System: Stress-related conditons.

OTHER USES: The oleoresin is used in pharmaceutical products especially cough medicines and iuretics. The oil and crude balsam are extensively used as a fixative and fragrance component in all types of perfumes, soaps, cosmetics and detergents. The crude is also used in porcelain painting.

BALSAM, PERU... balsam, copaiba

Bay, West Indian

Pimenta racemosa

FAMILY: Myrtaceae

SYNONYMS: Myrcia acris, Pimenta acris, myrcia, bay, bay rum tree, wild cinnamon, bayberry, bay leaf (oil).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A wild-growing tropical evergreen tree up to 8 metres high, with large leathery leaves and aromatic fruits.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the West Indies, particularly Dominica where the essential oil is produced.

OTHER SPECIES: There are several other varieties, for example the anise-scented and lemon-scented bay, the oils of which have a totally different chemical composition. Not to be confused with bay laurel, the common household spice, nor with the North American bayberry or wax myrtle (Myrcia cerifera) well known for its wax yielding berries.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The West Indian bay tree is often grown in groves together with the allspice or pimento bush, then the fruits of both are dried and powdered for the preparation of the household allspice. The so-called bay rum tree also provides the basic ingredient for the famous old hair tonic, which is made from the leaves by being distilled in rum. ‘A hair application with both fragrant and tonic virtues … useful for those who suffer from greasy hair and need a spirit-based, scalp-stimulating lotion to help them to control their locks!’9

ACTIONS: Analgesic, anticonvulsant, antineuralgic, antirheumatic, antiseptic, astringent, expectorant, stimulant, tonic (for hair).

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by water or steam distillation from the leaves. An oleoresin is also produced in small quantities.

CHARACTERISTICS: A dark yellow mobile liquid with a fresh-spicy top note and a sweet-balsamic undertone. It blends well with lavander, lavandin, rosemary, geranium, ylang ylang, citrus and spice oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Eugenol (up to 56 per cent), myrcene, chavicol and, in lesser amounts, methyl eugenol, linalol, limonene, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Moderately toxic due to high eugenol content; also a mucous membrane irritant – use in moderation only. Unlike bay laurel, however, it does not appear to cause dermal irritation or sensitization.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin Care: Scalp stimulant, hair rinse for dandruff, greasy, lifeless hair, and premoting growth.

Circulation, Muscles And Joints: Muscular and articular aches and pains, neuralgia, poor circulation, rheumatism, sprains, strains.

IMMUNE SYSTEM: Colds, ’flu, infectious diseases.

OTHER USES: Extensively used in fragrance work, in soaps, detergents, perfumes, aftershaves and hair lotions, including bay rum. Employed as a flavour ingredient in many major food categories, especially condiments, as well as alcoholic and soft drinks.... bay, west indian

Cajeput

Melaleuca cajeputi

FAMILY: Myrtaceae

SYNONYMS: M. minor, cajuput, white tea tree, white wood, swamp tea tree, punk tree, paperbark tree.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall evergreen tree up to 30 metres high, with thick pointed leaves and white flowers. The flexible trunk has a whitish spongy bark which flakes off easily. In Malaysia it is called ‘caju-puti’, meaning ‘white wood’, due to the colour of the timber.

DISTRIBUTION: It grows wild in Malaysia, Indonesia, the Philippines, Vietnam, Java, Australia and south eastern Asia.

OTHER SPECIES: Several other varieties of Melaleuca are used to produce cajeput oil, such as M. quinquenervia – see Botanical Classification section. Closely related to other members of the Melaleuca group, notably eucalyptus, clove, niaouli and tea tree.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Held in high regard in the East, it is used locally for colds, headaches, throat infections, toothache, sore and aching muscles, fever (cholera), rheumatism and various skin diseases. Only the oil is used in the Western herbal tradition, known for producing a sensation of warmth and quickening the pulse. It is used for chronic laryngitis and bronchitis, cystitis, rheumatism and to expel roundworm.

ACTIONS: Mildly analgesic, antimicrobial, antineuralgic, antispasmodic, antiseptic (pulmonary, urinary, intestinal), anthelmintic, diaphoretic, carminative, expectorant, febrifuge, insecticide, sudorific, tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the fresh leaves and twigs.

CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellowy-green, mobile liquid (the green tinge derives from traces of copper found in the tree), with a penetrating, camphoraceous-medicinal odour. Compared with eucalyptus oil, it has a slightly milder fruity body note.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Cineol (14–65 per cent depending on source), terpineol, terpinyl acetate, pinene, nerolidol and other traces.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-sensitizing, may irritate the skin in high concentration.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin Care: Insect bites, oily skin, spots.

Circulation Muscles And Joints: Arthritis, muscular aches and pains, rheumatism.

Respiratory System: Asthma, bronchitis, catarrh, coughs, sinusitis, sore throat.

Genito-Urinary System: Cystitis, urethritis, urinary infection.

Immune System: Colds, ’flu, viral infections.

OTHER USES: Used in dentistry and pharmaceutical work as an antiseptic; in expectorant and tonic formulations, throat lozenges, gargles, etc. Used as a fragrance and freshening agent in soaps, cosmetics, detergents and perfumes. Occasionally employed as a flavour component in food products and soft drinks.... cajeput

Cananga

Cananga odorata

FAMILY: Annonaceae

SYNONYM: C. odoratum var. macrophylla.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall tropical tree, up to 30 metres high, which flowers all year round. It bears large, fragrant, tender yellow flowers which are virtually identical to those of the ylang ylang.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to tropical Asia: Java, Malaysia, the Philippines, the Moluccas.

OTHER SPECIES: Very closely related to the tree which produces ylang ylang oil, C. odorata var. genuina. Cananga is considered an inferior product in perfumery work; being grown in different regions the oil has a different quality, heavier and less delicate than ylang ylang. However, cananga is truly a ‘complete’ oil whereas ylang ylang is made into several distillates.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Used locally for infectious illnesses, for example malaria. The beautiful flowers are also used for decorative purposes at festivals.

ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antidepressant, aphrodisiac, hypotensive, nervine, sedative, tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by water distillation from the flowers.

CHARACTERISTICS: Greenish-yellow or orange viscous liquid with a sweet, floral balsamic tenacious scent. It blends well with calamus, birch tar, copaiba balsam, labdanum, neroli, oakmoss, jasmine, guaiacwood and oriental-type bases.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Caryophyllene, benzyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, farnesol, terpineol, borneol, geranyl acetate, safrol, linalol, limonrne, methyl salicylate and over 100 minor components.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization especially in those with sensitive skin.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin Care: Insect bites, fragrance, general skin care.

Nervous System: Anxiety, depression, nervous tension and stress-related complaints.

OTHER USES: Fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes, especially men’s fragrances. Limited use as a flavour ingredient in some food products, alcoholic and soft drinks.... cananga

Camphor

Cinnamomum camphora

FAMILY: Lauraceae

SYNONYMS: Laurus camphora, true camphor, hon-sho, laurel camphor, gum camphor, Japanese camphor, Formosa camphor.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall, handsome, evergreen tree, up to 30 metres high, not unlike the linden. It has many branches bearing clusters of small white flowers followed by red berries. It produces a white crystalline substance, the crude camphor, from the wood of mature trees over fifty years old.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to Japan and Taiwan principally, also China; cultivated in India, Ceylon, Egypt, Madagascar, southern Europe and America.

OTHER SPECIES: There are many species of camphor: the ho-sho variety produces ho leaf and ho wood oil; the Chinese variety produces apopin oil; the Japan and Taiwan type, known as hon-sho or true camphor, produces two chemotypes: camphor-safrol (Japan) and camphor-linalol (Taiwan). All these are to be distinguished from the Borneo camphor or borneol which is of different botanical origin.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: A long-standing traditional preventative of infectious disease; a lump of camphor would be worn around the neck as a protection. In addition it was used for nervous and respiratory diseases in general, and for heart failure! However, in its crude form it is very poisonous in large doses, and has been removed from the British Pharmacopoeia.

ACTIONS: Anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antiviral, bactericidal, counter-irritant, diuretic, expectorant, stimulant, rubefacient, vermifuge.

EXTRACTION: Crude camphor is collected from the trees in crystalline form. The essential oil is produced by steam distillation from the wood, root stumps and branches and then rectified under vacuum and filter pressed to produce three fractions, known as white, brown and yellow camphor.

CHARACTERISTICS: White camphor is the lightest (lowest boiling) fraction, a colourless to pale yellow liquid with a sharp, pungent camphoraceous odour. Brown camphor is the middle fraction. Yellow camphor, a blue-green or yellowish liquid, is the heaviest.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: 1 White camphor contains mainly cineol, with pinene, terpineol, menthol, thymol and no safrol. 2. Brown camphor contains up to 80 per cent safrol and some terpineol. 3. Yellow camphor contains mainly safrol, sesquiterpenes and sesquiterpene alcohols.

SAFETY DATA: Brown and yellow camphor (containing safrol) are toxic and carcinogenic and ‘should not be used in therapy, either internally or externally.’. White camphor does not contain safrol and is relatively non-toxic, non-sensitizing and non-irritant. It is, however, an enviromental hazard or marine pollutant.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE White camphor may be used with care for:

Skin care: Acne, inflammation, oily conditions, spots; also for insect prevention (flies, moths, etc).

Circulation Muscles And Joints: Arthritis, muscular aches and pains, rheumatism, sprains, etc.

Respiratory System: Bronchitis, chills, coughs.

Immune System: Colds, fever, ’flu, infectious disease.

OTHER USES: White and brown camphor are used as the starting material for the isolation of many perfumery chemicals, for example safrol and cineol. White camphor is used as a solvent in the paint and lacquer industry, and for the production of celluloid. Fractions of white oil are used as fragrance and masking agents in detergents, soaps, disinfectants and household products.... camphor

Carrot Seed

Daucus carota

FAMILY: Apiaceae (Umbelliferae)

SYNONYMS: Wild carrot, Queen Anne’s lace, bird’s nest.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: Annual or biennial herb, with a small, inedible, tough whitish root. It has a much-branched stem up to 1.5 metres high with hairy leaves and umbels of white lacy flowers.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to Europe, Asia and North Africa; naturalized in North America. The essential oil is mainly produced in France.

OTHER SPECIES: An oil is also produced by solvent extraction from the red fleshy root of the common edible carrot (D. carota subspecies sativus) mainly for use as a food colouring.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: A highly nutritious plant, containing substantial amounts of Vitamins A, C, B1 and B2. The roots have a strong tonic action on the liver and gall bladder, good for the treatment of jaundice and other complaints. The seeds are used for the retention of urine, colic, kidney and digestive disorders, and to promote menstruation. In the Chinese tradition it is used to treat dysentery and to expel worms.

The dried leaves are current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia for calculus, gout, cystitis and lithuria.

ACTIONS: Anthelmintic, antiseptic, carminative, depurative, diuretic, emmenagogue, hepatic, stimulant, tonic, vasodilatory and smooth muscle relaxant.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the dried fruit (seeds).

CHARACTERISTICS: A yellow or amber-coloured liquid with a warm, dry, woody-earthy odour. It blends well with costus, cassie, mimosa, cedarwood, geranium, citrus and spice oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Pinene, carotol, daucol, limonene, bisabolene, elemene, geraniol, geranyl acetate, caryophyllene, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin Care: Dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis, rashes, revitalizing and toning, mature complexions, wrinkles.

Circulation Muscles And Joints: Accumulation of toxins, arthritis, gout, oedema, rheumatism.

Digestive System: Anaemia, anorexia, colic, indigestion, liver congestion.

Genito-Urinary And Endocrine Systems: Amenorrhoea, dysmenorrhoea, glandular problems, PMT.

OTHER USES: Fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. Flavour ingredient in most major food categories, especially seasonings.... carrot seed

Cascarilla Bark

Croton eluteria

FAMILY: Euphorbiaceae

SYNONYMS: Cascarilla, sweetwood bark, sweet bark, Bahama cascarilla, aromatic quinquina, false quinquina.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A large shrub or small tree up to 12 metres high, with ovate silver-bronze leaves, pale yellowish-brown bark and small white fragrant flowers. It bears fruits and flowers all year round.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the West Indies, probably the Bahama Islands; found growing wild in Mexico, Colombia and Ecuador. The oil is mainly produced in the Bahamas and Cuba; some distillation takes place in America, France and England from the imported bark.

OTHER SPECIES: An essential oil is also distilled locally from other Croton species. White, red and black cascarillas are also found in commerce.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The bark is used as an aromatic bitter and tonic for dyspepsia, diarrhoea, dysentery, fever, debility, nausea, flatulence, vomiting and chronic bronchitis. The leaves are used as a digestive tea, and for flavouring tobacco. The bark also yields a good black dye.

ACTIONS: Astringent, antimicrobial, antiseptic, carminative, digestive, expectorant, stomachic, tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the dried bark. (1.5–3 per cent yield).

CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow, greenish or dark amber liquid with a spicy, aromatic, warm-woody odour. It blends well with nutmeg, pepper, pimento, sage, oakmoss, oriental and spicy bases.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Cymene, diterpene, limonene, caryophyllene, terpineol and eugenol, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-irritant, non-sensitizing, relatively non-toxic (possibly narcotic in large doses).

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Respiratory System: Bronchitis, coughs

Digestive System: Dyspepsia, flatulence, nausea.

Immune System: ’Flu.

OTHER USES: Fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes, especially men’s fragrances. Flavour ingredient in most major food categories, soft drinks and alcoholic beverages, especially vermouths and bitters.... cascarilla bark

Cedarwood, Atlas

Cedrus atlantica

FAMILY: Pinaceae

SYNONYMS: Atlantic cedar, Atlas cedar, African cedar, Moroccan cedarwood (oil), libanol (oil).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: Pyramid-shaped evergreen tree with a majestic stature, up to 40 metres high. The wood itself is hard and strongly aromatic, due to the high percentage of essential oil which it contains.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Atlas mountains of Algeria; the oil is mainly produced in Morocco.

OTHER SPECIES: Believed to have originated from the famous Lebanon cedars (C. libani), which grow wild in Lebanon and on the island of Cyprus. It is also a close botanical relation to the Himalayan deodar cedarwood (C. deodora), which produces a very similar essential oil. (NB the oil is quite different from the Texas or Virginia cedarwood.)

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The oil from the Lebanon cedar was possibly the first to be extracted, it was used by the ancient Egyptians for embalming purposes, cosmetics and perfumery. The oil was one of the ingredients of ‘mithridat’, a renowned poison antidote that was used for centuries. The Lebanon cedar was prized as a building wood; its odour repelled ants, moths and other harmful insects, as does the oil from the Atlas cedar.

Traditionally, the oil was used in the East for bronchial and urinary tract infections, as a preservative and as an incense. It is still used as a temple incense by the Tibetans, and is employed in their traditional medicine.

ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antiputrescent, antiseborrheic, aphrodisiac, astringent, diuretic, expectorant, fungicidal, mucolytic, sedative (nervous), stimulant (circulatory), tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the wood, stumps and sawdust. A resinoid and absolute are also produced in small quantities.

CHARACTERISTICS: A yellow, orange or deep amber viscous oil with a warm, camphoraceous top note and sweet tenacious, woody-balsamic undertone. It blends well with rosewood, bergamot, boronia, cypress, calamus, cassie, costus, jasmine, juniper, neroli, mimosa, labdanum, olibanum, clary sage, vetiver, rosemary, ylang ylang, oriental and floral bases.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Atlantone, caryophyllene, cedrol, cadinene, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing. Best avoided during pregnancy.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin Care: Acne, dandruff, dermatitis, eczema, fungal infections, greasy skin, hair loss, skin eruptions, ulcers.

Circulation Muscles And Joints: Arthritis, rheumatism.

Respiratory System: Bronchitis, catarrh, congestion, coughs.

Genito-Urinary System: Cystitis, leucorrhoea, pruritis.

Nervous System: Nervous tension and stress-related conditions.

OTHER USES: Fragrance component and fixative in cosmetics and household products, soaps, detergents, etc, as well as in perfumes, especially men’s fragrances.... cedarwood, atlas

Celery Seed

Apium graveolens

FAMILY: Apiaceae (Umbelliferae)

SYNONYM: Celery fruit.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A familiar biennial plant, 30–60 cms high, with a grooved, fleshy, erect stalk, shiny pinnate leaves and umbels of white flowers.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to southern Europe; extensively cultivated as a domestic vegetable. The oil is principally produced in India, and also Holland, China, Hungary and the USA.

OTHER SPECIES: There are many cultivated varieties, such as celeriac root (A. graveolens var. rapaceum) and the salad vegetable (A. graveolens var. dulce).

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Celery seed is widely used as a domestic spice. The seed is used in bladder and kidney complaints, digestive upsets and menstrual problems; the leaves are used in skin ailments. It is known to increase the elimination of uric acid and is useful for gout, neuralgia and rheumatoid arthritis. A remedy for hepatobiliary disorders, it has been found to have a regenerating effect on the liver.

Current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for rheumatoid arthritis with mental depression.

ACTIONS: Anti-oxidative, antirheumatic, antiseptic (urinary), antispasmodic, aperitif, depurative, digestive, diuretic, carminative, cholagogue, emmenagogue, galactagogue, hepatic, nervine, sedative (nervous), stimulant (uterine), stomachic, tonic (digestive).

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the whole or crushed seeds. (An oil from the whole herb, an oleoresin and extract are also produced in small quantities.)

CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow or orange oil with a spicy-warm, sweet, long-lasting odour. It blends well with lavender, pine, opopanax, lavage, tea tree, oakmoss, coriander and other spices.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Limonene (60 per cent), apiol, selinene, santalol, sedanolide and sedanolic acid anhydride, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization. Avoid during pregnancy.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Circulation Muscles And Joints: Arthritis, build-up of toxins in the blood, gout, rheumatism.

Digestive System: Dyspepsia, flatulence, indigestion, liver congestion, jaundice.

Genito-Urinary And Endocrine Systems: Amenorrhoea, glandular problems, increases milk flow, cystitis.

Nervous System: Neuralgia, sciatica.

OTHER USES: Used in tonic, sedative and carminative preparations, and as a fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. Extensively used as a flavouring agent in foods, especially by the spice industry, and in alcoholic and soft drinks.... celery seed

Citronella

Cymbopogon nardus

FAMILY: Poaceae (Gramineae)

SYNONYMS: Andropogon nardus, Sri Lanka citronella, Lenabatu citronella.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall, aromatic, perennial grass, which has derived from the wild-growing ‘managrass’ found in Sri Lanka.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to Sri Lanka, now extensively cultivated on the southernmost tip of the country.

OTHER SPECIES: An important essential oil is also produced on a large scale from the Java or Maha Pengiri citronella (C. winterianus). This variety is cultivated in the tropics worldwide, especially in Java, Vietnam, Africa, Argentina and Central America. There are many other related species of scented grasses.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The leaves of citronella are used for their aromatic and medicinal value in many cultures, for fever, intestinal parasites, digestive and menstrual problems, as a stimulant and an insect repellent. It is used in Chinese traditional medicine for rheumatic pain.

ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antispasmodic, bactericidal, deodorant, diaphoretic, diuretic, emmenagogue, febrifuge, fungicidal, insecticide, stomachic, tonic, vermifuge.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation of the fresh, part-dried or dried grass. (The Java citronella yields twice as much oil as the Sri Lanka type.)

CHARACTERISTICS: A yellowy-brown, mobile liquid with a fresh, powerful, lemony scent. The Java oil is colourless to pale yellow with a fresh, woody-sweet fragrance; it is considered of superior quality in perfumery work. It blends well with geranium, lemon, bergamot, orange, cedarwood and pine.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly geraniol (up to 45 per cent in the Java oil), citronella (up to 50 per cent in the Java oil) with geranyl acetate, limonene and camphene, among others. The Sri Lanka variety contains more monoterpene hydrocarbons.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant; may cause dermatitis in some individuals. Avoid during pregnancy.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin Care: Excessive perspiration, oily skin, insect repellant. ‘Mixed with cedarwood oil Virginia, it has been a popular remedy against mosquito attacks for many years prior to the appearance of DDT and other modern insecticides.’.

Immune System: Colds, ’flu, minor infections.

Nervous System: Fatigue, headaches, migraine, neuralgia.

OTHER USES: Extensively used in soaps, detergents, household goods and industrial perfumes. Employed in insect repellent formulations against moths, ants, fleas, etc, for use in the home and in the garden The Sri Lanka oil is used in most major food categories, including alcoholic and soft drinks. The Java oil is used as the starting material for the isolation of natural geraniol and citronellal.... citronella

Chamomile, German

Matricaria recutica

FAMILY: Asteraceae (Compositae)

SYNONYMS: M. chamomilla, camomile, blue chamomile, matricaria, Hungarian chamomile, sweet false chamomile, single chamomile, chamomile blue (oil).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An annual, strongly aromatic herb, up to 60 cms tall with a hairless, erect, branching stem. It has delicate feathery leaves and simple daisy-like white flowers on single stems. In appearance it is very similar to the corn chamomile (Anthemis arvensis) but can be distinguished from it because the latter is scentless.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to Europe and north and west Asia; naturalized in North America and Australia. It is cultivated extensively, especially in Hungary and eastern Europe, where the oil is produced. It is no longer grown in Germany, despite the herbal name.

OTHER SPECIES: There are many varieties of chamomile, such as the pineapple weed (Chamaemelium suaveolens) and the Roman chamomile (C. nobile), both of which are used to produce an essential oil.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: This herb has a long-standing medicinal tradition, especially in Europe for ‘all states of tension and the visceral symptoms that can arise therefrom, such as nervous dyspepsia and nervous bowel, tension headaches, and sleeplessness; especially useful for all children’s conditions, calming without depressing …’.

An excellent skin care remedy, it has many of the same qualities as Roman chamomile, except that its anti-inflammatory properties are greater due to the higher percentage of azulene.

ACTIONS: Analgesic, anti-allergenic, anti inflammatory, antiphlogistic, antispasmodic, bactericidal, carlminative, cicatrisant, cholagogue, digestive, emmenagogue, febrifuge, fungicidal, hepatic, nerve sedative, stimulant of leucocyte production, stomachic, sudorific, vermifuge, vulnerary.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the flower heads (up to 1.9 per cent yield). An absolute is also produced in small quantities, which is a deeper blue colour and has greater tenacity and fixative properties.

CHARACTERISTICS: An inky-blue viscous liquid with a strong, sweetish warm-herbaceous odour. It blends well with geranium, lavender, patchouli, rose, benzoin, neroli, bergamot, marjoram, lemon, ylang ylang, jasmine, clary sage and labdanum.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Chamazulene, farnesene, bisabolol oxide, en-yndicycloether, among others. (NB The chamazulene is not present in the fresh flower but is only produced during the process of distillation.)

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant; causes dermatitis in some individuals.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin Care: Acne, allergies, boils, burns, cuts, chilblains, dermatitis, earache, eczema, hair care, inflammations, insect bites, rashes, sensitive skin, teething pain, toothache, wounds.

Circulation Muscles And Joints: Arthritis, inflamed joints, muscular pain, neuralgia, rheumatism, sprains.

Digestive System: Dyspepsia, colic, indigestion, nausea.

Genito-Urinary System: Dysmenorrhoea, menopausal problems, menorrhagia.

Nervous System: Headache, insomnia, nervous tension, migraine and stress-related complaints.

OTHER USES: Used in pharmaceutical antiseptic ointments and in carminative, antispasmodic and tonic preparations. Extensively used in cosmetics, soaps, detergents, high-class perfumes and hair and bath products. Used as a flavour ingredient in most major food categories, including alcoholic and soft drinks.... chamomile, german

Cubebs

Piper Cubeba

FAMILY: Piperaceae

SYNONYMS: Cubeba officinalis, cubeba, tailed pepper, cubeb berry, false pepper.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An evergreen climbing vine up to 6 metres high with heart-shaped leaves. Altogether similar to the black pepper plant, except that the fruit or seeds of the cubeb retain their peduncle or stem – thus the name, tailed pepper.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to Indonesia, cultivated throughout south east Africa, usually together with coffee crops. The oil is mainly produced at source in Indonesia.

OTHER SPECIES: Closely related to the black pepper plant (P. nigrum) and to the South American matico (P. augustifolium). There are also many other related species grown in Indonesia which are, often used for adulteration, such as false cubebs (P. crassipes).

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The seeds are used locally as a domestic spice. It has been traditionally used for treating genito-urinary infections, such as gonorrhoea, cystitis, urethritis, abscess of the prostate gland and leucorrhoea. It is also used for digestive upsets and respiratory problems such as chronic bronchitis. The seeds have a local stimulating effect on the mucous membrane of the urinary and respiratory tracts, and the powder was found ‘90 per cent clinically effective in treating amoebic dysentery’..

ACTIONS: Antiseptic (pulmonary, genito-urinary), antispasmodic, antiviral, bactericidal, carminative, diuretic, expectorant, stimulant.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the unripe but fully grown fruits or berries. (An oleoresin is also produced in small quantities.)

CHARACTERISTICS: A pale greenish or bluish yellow viscous liquid with a warm woody-spicy, slightly camphoraceous odour. It blends well with cananga, galbanum, lavender, rosemary, black pepper, allspice and other spices.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly sesquiterpenes and monoterpenes which include caryophyllene, cadinene, cubebene, sabinene, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing. Frequently subject to adulteration.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Respiratory System: Bronchitis, catarrh, congestion, chronic coughs, sinusitis, throat infections.

Digestive System: Flatulence, indigestion, piles, sluggish digestion.

Genito-Urinary Systems: Cystitis, leucorrhoea, urethritis.

OTHER USES: Employed in diuretic and urinary antiseptic preparations and as a fragrance component in soaps, detergents, toiletries, cosmetics and perfumes. Used as a flavouring agent in most major food categories; also used for flavouring tobacco.... cubebs

Deertongue

Carphephorus odoratissimus

FAMILY: Asteraceae (Compositae)

SYNONYMS: Trilisa odoratissima, Liatris odoratissima, Frasera speciosa, hound’s tongue, deer’s tongue, Carolina vanilla, vanilla leaf, wild vanilla, vanilla trilisa, whart’s tongue, liatrix (oleoresin or absolute).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A herbaceous perennial plant distinguished by a naked receptacle and feathery pappus, with large, fleshy, dark green leaves, clasped at the base. When fresh, the leaves have little odour but when dried they acquire a vanilla-like odour, largely due to the coumarin that can be seen in crystals on the upper sides of the leaves.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to eastern USA; gathered on the savannah land between North Carolina and Florida.

OTHER SPECIES: There are several species of deertongue native to America, for example blazing star or prairie pine (Liatris squarrosa), and gayfeather (L. spicata). Not to be confused with the common vanilla (Vanilla planifolia) or with the European hound’s tongue (Cynoglossum officinale), all of which have been used in herbal medicine.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The roots have been used for their diuretic effects, and applied locally for sore throats and gonorrhoea. It has also been used as a tonic in treating malaria. In folklore the plant is associated with contraception and sterility in women.

ACTIONS: Antiseptic, demulcent, diaphoretic, diuretic, febrifuge, stimulant, tonic.

EXTRACTION: Oleoresin by solvent extraction from the dried leaves.

CHARACTERISTICS: A dark green, heavy, viscous liquid with a rich, herbaceous, new-mown hay scent. It blends well with oakmoss, labdanum, lavandin, frankincense, clove, patchouli and oriental-type fragrances.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly coumarin (1.6 per cent), with dihydrotoumarin and terpenes, aldehydes and ketones.

SAFETY DATA: ‘Coumarin has toxic properties including liver injury and haemorrhages.’. (There is also the possibility of dermal irritation and phototoxicity due to the lactones present.)

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE None.

OTHER USES: The oleoresin is used as a fixative and fragrance component in soaps, detergents and perfumery work. Used for flavouring tobacco and; also employed for the isolation of coumarin.... deertongue

Dill

Anethum graveolens

FAMILY: Apiaceae (Umbelliferae)

SYNONYMS: Peucedanum graveolens, Fructus anethi, European dill, American dill.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: Annual or biennial herb up to 1 metre high with a smooth stem, feathery leaves and umbels of yellowish flowers followed by flat small seeds.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Mediterranean and Black Sea regions; now cultivated worldwide, especially in Europe, USA, China and India. Dill seed oil is mainly produced in Europe (France, Hungary, Germany, England, Spain); dill weed oil in the USA.

OTHER SPECIES: Indian dill or East Indian dil (A. sowa) is widely cultivated in the east, especially in India and Japan. A commercial oil is produced from the seed which has a different chemical composition and contains ‘dill apiol’.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Used since the earliest times as a medicinal and culinary herb. In Germany and Scandinavia especially, it is used with fish and cucumber, and the seeds baked in bread. In the west and east it is used as a soothing digestive aid for indigestion, wind, colic etc. especially in children, for which it is still current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia.

ACTIONS: Antispasmodic, bactericidal, carminative, digestive, emmenagogue, galactagogue, hypotensive, stimulant, stomachic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam (sometimes water) distillation from 1. fruit or seed, 2. herb or weed (fresh or partially dried).

CHARACTERISTICS: 1. A colourless to pale yellow mobile liquid with a light fresh warm spicy scent. 2. A colourless or pale yellow mobile liquid with a powerful sweet-spicy aroma. It blends well with elemi, mint, caraway, nutmeg, spice and citrus oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: 1. Carvone (30–60 per cent), limonene, phellandrene, eugenol, pinene among others. 2. Carvone (much less), limonene, pinene, etc. as well as terpinene. There are several different chemotypes of dill, for example, phellandrene is present in the English and Spanish oils but not in the German.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Digestive System: Colic, dyspepsia, flatulence, indigestion.

Genito-Urinary And Endocrine Systems: Lack of periods; promotes milk flow in nursing mothers.

OTHER USES: Used in some pharmaceutical digestive preparations such as ‘dill water’. The weed oil is used as a fragrance component in detergents, cosmetics, perfumes and especially soaps. Both oils are used extensively in alcoholic, soft drinks and foodstuffs, especially pickles and condiments.... dill

Elecampane

Inula helenium

FAMILY: Asteraceae (Compositae)

SYNONYMS: Helenium grandiflorum, Aster officinalis, A. helenium, inula, scabwort, alant, horseheal, yellow starwort, elf dock, wild sunflower, velvet dock, ‘essence d’aunée’.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A handsome perennial herb up to 1.5 metres high, with a stout stem covered in soft hairs. It has oval pointed leaves which are velvety underneath, large, yellow, daisy-like flowers and large, fleshy rhizome roots.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to Europe and Asia, naturalized in North America. Cultivated in Europe (Belgium, France, Germany) and Asia (China, India). The oil is mainly produced from imported roots in southern France.

OTHER SPECIES: There are several varieties of Inula; the European and Asian species are slightly different having a harsher scent. Other varieties include golden samphire (I. crithmoides) and sweet inula (I. graveolens or I. odora), which share similar properties.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: A herb of ancient medical repute, which used to be candied and sold as a sweetmeat. It is used as an important spice, incense and medicine in the east. It is used in both western and eastern herbalism, mainly in the form of a tea for respiratory conditions such as asthma, bronchitis and whooping cough, disorders of the digestion, intestines and gall bladder and for skin disorders.

Current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for irritating cough or bronchitis. Elecampane root is the richest source of inulin.

ACTIONS: Alterative, anthelmintic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antispasmodic, antitussive, astringent, bactericidal, diaphoretic, diuretic, expectorant, fungicidal, hyperglycaemic, hypotensive, stomachic, tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the dried roots and rhizomes. (An absolute and concrete are also produced in small quantities.)

CHARACTERISTICS: A semi-solid or viscous dark yellow or brownish liquid with a dry, soft, woody, honey-like odour, often containing crystals. It blends well with cananga, cinnamon, labdanum, lavender, mimosa, frankincense, orris, tuberose, violet, cedarwood, patchouli, sandalwood, cypress, bergamot and oriental fragrances.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly sesquiterpene lactones, including alantolactone (or helenin), isolactone, dihydroisalantolactone, dihydralantolactone, alantic acid and azulene.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant; however it is a severe dermal sensitizer. In clinical tests it caused ‘extremely severe allergic reactions’ in twenty-three out of twenty-five volunteers. On the basis of these results it is recommended that the oil ‘should not be used on the skin at all’..

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE None.

NB In Phytoguide I, sweet inula (I. odora or I. graveolens), a deep green oil, is described as ‘queen of mucolytic essential oils’, having properties as diverse as: ‘anti-inflammatory, hyperthermic, sedative, cardia-regulative, diuretic and depurative’.. It is described as being an excellent oil for the cardiopulmonary zone including asthma, chronic bronchitis and unproductive coughs. This variety of Inula seems to avoid the sensitization problems of elecampane, at least when it is used as an inhalation or by aerosol treatment.

OTHER USES: Alantolactone is used as an anthelmintic in Europe (it is also an excellent bactericide). The oil and absolute are used as fixatives and fragrance components in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. Used as a flavour ingredient in alcoholic beverages, soft drinks and foodstuffs, especially desserts.... elecampane

Elemi

Canarium luzonicum

FAMILY: Burseraceae

SYNONYMS: C. commune, Manila elemi, elemi gum, elemi resin, elemi (oleoresin).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tropical tree up to 30 metres high which yields a resinous pathological exudation with a green pungent odour. Although it is called a gum, it is almost entirely made up of resin and essential oil.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Philippine Islands and the Moluccas, where it is also cultivated. Distillation of the oil takes place at source.

OTHER SPECIES: There are several other species of Canarium which grow wild or are cultivated in the Philippines, which also yield a ‘gum’. It is also closely related to the trees yielding myrrh, frankincense and opopanax.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The gum or oleoresin is used locally for skin care, respiratory complaints and as a general stimulant. Elemi was one of the aromatics used by the ancient Egyptians for the embalming process.

ACTIONS: Antiseptic, balsamic, cicatrisant, expectorant, fortifying, regulatory, stimulant, stomachic, tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the gum. (A resinoid and resin absolute are also produced in small quantities.)

CHARACTERISTICS: A colourless to pale yellow liquid with a light, fresh, balsamic-spicy, lemonlike odour. It blends well with myrrh, frankincense, labdanum, rosemary, lavender, lavandin, sage, cinnamon and other spices.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: The gum contains about 10–25 per cent essential oil of mainly phellandrene, dipentene, elemol, elemicin, terpineol, carvone and terpinolene among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Aged skin, infected cuts and wounds, inflammations, rejuvenation, wrinkles – signifies drying and ‘preservation’..

Respiratory system: Bronchitis, catarrhal conditions, unproductive coughs.

Nervous system: Nervous exhaustion and stress-related conditions.

OTHER USES: Resinoid and oil are used primarily as fixatives but also as fragrance components in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. Occasionally used as a flavouring ingredient in food products, alcoholic and soft drinks.... elemi

Eucalyptus, Blue Gum

Eucalyptus globulus var. globulus

FAMILY: Myrtaceae

SYNONYMS: Gum tree, southern blue gum, Tasmanian blue gum, fever tree, stringy bark.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A beautiful, tall, evergreen tree, up to 90 metres high. The young trees have bluish-green oval leaves while the mature trees develop long, narrow, yellowish leaves, creamy-white flowers and a smooth, pale grey bark often covered in a white powder.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to Tasmania and Australia. Mainly cultivated in Spain and Portugal, also Brazil, California, Russia and China. Very little of this oil now comes from its native countries.

OTHER SPECIES: There are over 700 different species of eucalyptus, of which at least 500 produce a type of essential oil. Many have been extracted simply for experimental purposes, and research is still being carried out with regard to the different constituents of each oil. In general, they can be divided into three categories. 1. The medicinal oils containing large amounts of cineol (or eucalyptol), such as the blue gum, but increasingly the blue malee (E. polybractea), the narrow-leaved peppermint (E. radiata var. australiana) and the gully gum (E. smithii). 2. The industrial oils containing mainly piperitone and phellandrene, such as the peppermint eucalyptus (E. piperita), grey peppermint (E. radiata var. phellandra) and increasingly the broad-leaved peppermint (E. dives var. Type). 3. The perfumery oils containing mainly citronellal, such as the lemon-scented eucalyptus (E. citriodora). See also Botanical Classification section.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: A traditional household remedy in Australia, the leaves and oil are especially used for respiratory ailments such as bronchitis and croup, and the dried leaves are smoked like tobacco for asthma. It is also used for feverish conditions (malaria, typhoid, cholera, etc.) and skin problems like burns, ulcers and wounds. Aqueous extracts are used for aching joints, bacterial dysentery, ringworms, tuberculosis, etc. and employed for similar reasons in western and eastern medicine. The wood is also used for timber production in Spain.

ACTIONS: Analgesic, antineuralgic, antirheumatic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, antiviral, balsamic, cicatrisant, decongestant, deodorant, depurative, diuretic, expectorant, febrifuge, hypoglycaemic, parasiticide, prophylactic, rubefacient, stimulant, vermifuge, vulnerary.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the fresh or partially dried leaves and young twigs.

CHARACTERISTICS: A colourless mobile liquid (yellows on ageing), with a somewhat harsh camphoraceous odour and woody-sweet undertone. It blends well with thyme, rosemary, lavender, marjoram, pine, cedarwood and lemon. (The narrow-leaved eucalyptus (E. radiata var. australiana) is often used in preference to the blue gum in aromatherapy work, being rich in cineol but with a sweeter and less harsh odour.)

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Cineol (70–85 per cent), pinene, limonene, cymene, phellandrene, terpinene, aromadendrene, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Externally non-toxic, non-irritant (in dilution), non-sensitizing. ‘When taken internally eucalyptus oil is toxic and as little as 3.5ml has been reported as fatal’..

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin Care: Burns, blisters, cuts, herpes, insect bites, insect repellent, lice, skin infections, wounds.

Circulation Muscles And Joints: Muscular aches and pains, poor circulation, rheumatoid arthritis, sprains, etc.

Respiratory System: Asthma, bronchitis, catarrh, coughs, sinusitis, throat infections.

Genito-Urinary System: Cystitis, leucorrhoea.

Immune System: Chickenpox, colds, epidemics, ’flu, measles.

Nervous System: Debility, headaches, neuralgia.

OTHER USES: The oil and cineol are largely employed in the preparation of liniments, inhalants, cough syrups, ointments, toothpaste and as pharmaceutical flavourings also used in veterinary practise and dentistry. Used as a fragrance component in soaps, detergents and toiletries – little used in perfumes. Used for the isolation of cineol and employed as a flavour ingredient in most major food categories.... eucalyptus, blue gum

Lemon-scented

Eucalyptus citriodora

FAMILY: Myrtaceae

SYNONYMS: Lemon-scented gum, citron-scented gum, scented gum tree, spotted gum, ‘boabo’.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An attractive, tall, evergreen tree with a smooth dimpled bark, blotched in grey, cream and pink, cultivated as an ornamental. The trunk grows fast, straight and to considerable height, and is used for timber. The young leaves are oval, the mature leaves narrow and tapering.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to Australia; cultivated mainly in Brazil and China.

OTHER SPECIES: There are numerous other species of eucalyptus – see entry on eucalyptus blue gum. See also Botanical Classification section.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Used traditionally for perfuming the linen cupboard by enclosing the dried leaves in a small cloth sachet. During the last century it was regarded as a good insect repellent, especially for cockroaches and silverfish.

ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antiviral, bactericidal, deodorant, expectorant, fungicidal, insecticide.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the leaves and twigs.

CHARACTERISTICS: A colourless or pale yellow mobile liquid with a strong, fresh, citronella-like odour and sweet balsamic undertone.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Citronellal (80–95 per cent), citronellol, geraniol and pinene, among others. (The gum or ‘kino’ contains the antibiotic substance ‘citriodorol’.)

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization in some individuals. Eucalyptus oil is toxic when taken internally, see Eucalyptus blue gum entry.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin Care: Athlete’s foot and other fungal infections (e.g. candida), cuts, dandruff, herpes, insect repellent, scabs, sores, wounds.

Respiratory System: Asthma, laryngitis, sore throat.

Immune System: Colds, fevers, infectious skin conditions such as chickenpox, infectious disease. ‘The essential oil contained in the leaves appears to have bacteriostatic activity towards Staphylococcus aureus; this is due to synergism between the citronellol and citronellal present in the oil’..

OTHER USES: Used as a fragrance component (in place of E. globulus) in soaps, detergents and perfumes; also used in room sprays and insect repellents Employed for the isolation of natural citronellal.... lemon-scented

Galbanum

Ferula galbaniflua

FAMILY: Apiaceae (Umbelliferae)

SYNONYMS: F. gummosa, galbanum gum, galbanum resin, ‘bubonion’.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A large perennial herb with a smooth stem, shiny leaflets and small flowers. It contains resin ducts which exude a milky juice, a natural oleoresin. The dried resinous exudation is collected by making incisions at the base of the stem.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Middle East and western Asia; cultivated in Iran, Turkey, Afghanistan and Lebanon. Distillation usually takes place in Europe or the USA.

OTHER SPECIES: There are two distinct types: Levant galbanum which is liquid or soft, and Persian galbanum which is solid or hard. Other Ferula species also yield galbanum gum, such as the muskroot; see also Botanical Classification section.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: It was used by the ancient civilizations as an incense, and in Egypt for cosmetics and in the embalming process. It is generally used in the east in a similar way to asafetida: for treating wounds, inflammations and skin disorders and also for respiratory, digestive and nervous complaints. Zalou root (F. hermonic) is used in Beirut as an aphrodisiac.

ACTIONS: Analgesic, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antiseptic, antispasmodic, aphrodisiac, balsamic, carminative, cicatrisant, digestive, diuretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, hypotensive, restorative, tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by water or steam distillation from the oleoresin or gum – only the Levant or soft type is used for oil production. A partially deterpenized oil is produced, known as ‘galbanol’. (A resinoid is also produced, mainly for use as a fixative.)

CHARACTERISTICS: Crude – A dark amber or brown viscous liquid with a green-woody scent and a soft balsamic undertone. Oil – A colourless, or pale yellow or olive liquid with a fresh green topnote and woody-dry balsamic undertone. It blends well with hyacinth, violet, narcissus, lavender, geranium, oakmoss, opopanax, pine, fir, styrax and oriental bases.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Pinene, cadinol, cadinene and myrcene, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin Care: Abscesses, acne, boils, cuts, heals scar tissue, inflammations, tones the skin, mature skin, wrinkles, wounds – ‘signifies drying and preservation’..

Circulation Muscles And Joints: Poor circulation, muscular aches and pains, rheumatism.

Respiratory System: Asthma, bronchitis, catarrh, chronic coughs.

Digestive System: Cramp, flatulence, indigestion.

Nervous System: Nervous tension and stress-related complaints.

OTHER USES: The Persian gum used to be employed in pharmaceutical products. Both oil and resinoid are used as fixatives and fragrance components in soaps, detergents, creams, lotions and perfumes. Also used as a flavour ingredient in most major food categories, alcoholic and soft drinks.... galbanum

Grapefruit

Citrus x paradisi

FAMILY: Rutaceae

SYNONYMS: C. racemosa, C. maxima var. racemosa, shaddock (oil).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A cultivated tree, often over 10 metres high with glossy leaves and large yellow fruits, believed to have derived from the shaddock (C. grandis).

DISTRIBUTION: Native to tropical Asia, and the West Indies; cultivated in California, Florida, Brazil and Israel. The oil is mainly produced in California.

OTHER SPECIES: C. paradisi is a recent hybrid of C. maxima and C. sinesis. There are many different cultivars; for example, ‘Duncan’ is standard in Florida.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: It shares the nutritional qualities of other citrus species, being high in Vitamin C and a valuable protection against infectious illness.

ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antitoxic, astringent, bactericidal, diuretic, depurative, stimulant (lymphatic, digestive), tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by cold expression from the fresh peel. (Some oil is distilled from the peel and remains of the fruit after the juice has been utilized, but this is of inferior quality.)

CHARACTERISTICS: A yellow or greenish mobile liquid with a fresh, sweet citrus aroma. It blends well with lemon, palmarosa, bergamot, neroli, rosemary, cypress, lavender, geranium, cardomon and other spice oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Limonene (90 per cent), cadinene, paradisiol, neral, geraniol, citronellal, sinensal, as well as esters, coumarins and furocoumarins.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic. It has a short shelf life – it oxidizes quickly.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

SKIN CARE: Acne, congested and oily skin, promotes hair growth, tones the skin and tissues.

Circulation Muscles And Joints: Cellulitis, exercise preparation, muscle fatigue, obesity, stiffness, water retention.

Immune System: Chills, colds, ’flu.

Nervous System: Depression, headaches, nervous exhaustion, performance stress.

OTHER USES: Employed as a fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. Extensively used in desserts, soft drinks and alcoholic beverages.... grapefruit

Juniper

Juniperus communis

FAMILY: Cupressaceae

SYNONYM: Common juniper.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An evergreen shrub or tree up to 6 metres high, with bluish green narrow stiff needles. It has small flowers and little round berries, which are green in the first year, turning black in the second and third.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the northern hemisphere: Scandinavia, Siberia, Canada, northern Europe and northern Asia. The oil is mainly produced in Italy, France, Yugoslavia, Austria, Czechoslovakia, Spain, Germany and Canada.

OTHER SPECIES: In Yugoslavia an oil is produced from the fruit and twigs of J. smerka, less rich and sweet than that of common juniper. There are various other species of juniper such as J. oxycedrus which produces cade oil, J. virginiana which produces the so-called Virginian cedarwood oil, and J. sabina which produces savin oil. See also Botanical Classification section.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The needles and berries have a long traditional history of use. It is used medicinally for urinary infections such as cystitis and urethritis; for respiratory problems such as bronchitis, colic and coughs; as well as gastro-intestinal infections and worms. It helps expel the build-up of uric acid in the joints, and is employed in gout, rheumatism and arthritis. Current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia for rheumatic pain and cystitis.

ACTIONS: Antirheumatic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, antitoxic, aphrodisiac, astringent, carminative, cicatrisant, depurative, diuretic, emmenagogue, nervine, parasiticide, rubefacient, sedative, stomachic, sudorific, tonic, vulnerary.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from 1. the berries (sometimes fermented first as a by-product of juniper – brandy manufacture – the oil is considered an inferior product), and 2. the needles and wood. A resinoid, concrete and absolute are also produced on a small scale.

CHARACTERISTICS: 1. A water-white or pale yellow mobile liquid with a sweet, fresh, woody-balsamic odour. It blends well with vetiver, sandalwood, cedarwood, mastic, oakmoss, galbanum, elemi, cypress, clary sage, pine, lavender, lavandin, labdanum, fir needle, rosemary, benzoin, balsam tolu, geranium and citrus oils. 2. A water-white or pale yellow mobile liquid with a sweet-balsamic, fresh, turpentine-like odour.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly monoterpenes: pinene, myrcene, sabinene with limonene, cymene, terpinene, thujene and camphene, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-sensitizing, may be slightly irritating, generally non-toxic. However, it stimulates the uterine muscle (an abortifacient) and must not be used during pregnancy. Neither should it be used by those with kidney disease due to its nephrotoxic effect. The wood oil is usually adulterated with turpentine oil. It is best to use only juniper berry oil, in moderation.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Acne, dermatitis, eczema, hair loss, haemorrhoids, oily complexions, as a skin toner, wounds.

Circulation muscles and joints: Accumulation of toxins, arteriosclerosis, cellulitis, gout, obesity, rheumatism.

Immune system: Colds, ’flu, infections.

Genito-urinary system: Amenorrhoea, cystitis, dysmenorrhoea, leucorrhoea.

Nervous system: Anxiety, nervous tension and stress-related conditions.

OTHER USES: Berries and extracts are used in diuretic and laxative preparations; also veterinary preventatives of ticks and fleas. Employed as a fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes, especially spicy fragrances and aftershaves. Extensively used in many food products but especially alcoholic and soft drinks: the berries are used to flavour gin.... juniper

Labdanum

Cistus ladaniferus

FAMILY: Cistaceae

SYNONYMS: Cistus (oil), gum cistus, ciste, cyste (absolute), labdanum gum, ambreine, European rock rose.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A small sticky shrub up to 3 metres high with lance-shaped leaves which are white and furry on the underside, and fragrant white flowers. Labdanum gum, a dark brown solid mass, is a natural oleoresin which is obtained by boiling the plant material in water.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Mediterranean mountainous regions and the Middle East. Now found throughout the Mediterranean region, especially southern France, Spain, Portugal, Greece, Morocco, Cyprus and Yugoslavia. The oil is mainly produced in Spain.

OTHER SPECIES: Labdanum gum is also obtained from other Cistus species, notably C. incanus, and other subspecies: see Botanical Classification section.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: One of the early aromatic substances of the ancient world. The gum was used formerly for catarrh, diarrhoea, dysentery and to promote menstruation; externally it was used in plasters. The oil from the closely related plant frostwort (Helianthemum canadense), also known as cistus, also has many medicinal qualities and is said to be useful for scrofulous skin conditions, ulcers and tumours, including cancer.

ACTIONS: Antimicrobial, antiseptic, antitussive, astringent, balsamic, emmenagogue, expectorant, tonic.

EXTRACTION: 1. A resinoid or resin concrete and absolute by solvent extraction from the crude gum. 2. An essential oil by steam distillation from the crude gum, the absolute, or from the leaves and twigs of the plant directly.

CHARACTERISTICS: 1. Absolute – a semi solid green or amber mass with a rich, sweet, herbaceous-balsamic odour. 2. Oil – a dark yellow or amber viscous liquid with a warm, sweet, dry-herbaceous musky scent. It blends well with oakmoss, clary sage, pine, juniper, calamus, opopanax, lavender, lavandin, bergamot, cypress, vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, olibanum, chamomile maroc and oriental bases.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: It contains over 170 pinenes, including camphene, sabinene, myrcene, phellandrene, limonene, cymene, cineol, borneol, nerol, geraniol, fenchone, etc. Exact constituents vary according to source.

SAFETY DATA: Generally non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing. Avoid during pregnancy.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Mature skin, wrinkles.

Respiratory system: Coughs, bronchitis, rhinitis, etc.

Immune system: Colds.

OTHER USES: Used as a fixative and fragrance component in lotions, powders, soaps, detergents, colognes and perfumes, especially oriental perfumes and aftershaves. Employed in most major food categories, particularly meat products, as well as alcoholic and soft drinks.... labdanum

Laurel

Laurus nobilis

FAMILY: Lauraceae

SYNONYMS: Sweet bay, bay laurel, Grecian laurel, true bay, Mediterranean bay, Roman laurel, noble laurel, laurel leaf (oil).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An evergreen tree up to 20 metres high with dark green, glossy leaves and black berries; often cultivated as an ornamental shrub.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Mediterranean region; extensively cultivated especially for its berries, in France, Spain, Italy, Morocco, Yugoslavia, China, Israel, Turkey and Russia. The oil is mainly produced in Yugoslavia.

OTHER SPECIES: There are several related species, all of which are commonly called Bay: Californian bay (Umbellularia california), West Indian bay (Pimenta racemosa) and the cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus), which is poisonous.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: A popular culinary herb throughout Europe. The leaves were used by the ancient Greeks and Romans to crown their victors. Both leaf and berry were formerly used for a variety of afflictions including hysteria, colic, indigestion, loss of appetite, to promote menstruation and for fever. It is little used internally these days, due to its narcotic properties. A ‘fixed’ oil of bay, expressed from the berries, is still used for sprains, bruises, earache, etc.

ACTIONS: Antirheumatic, antiseptic, bactericidal, diaphoretic, digestive, diuretic, emmenagogue, fungicidal, hypotensive, sedative, stomachic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the dried leaf and branchlets. (An oil from the berries is produced in small quantities.)

CHARACTERISTICS: A greenish-yellow liquid with a powerful, spicy-medicinal odour. It blends well with pine, cypress, juniper, clary sage, rosemary, olibanum, labdanum, lavender, citrus and spice oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Cineol (30–50 per cent), pinene, linalol, terpineol acetate, and traces of methyl eugenol.

SAFETY DATA: Relatively non-toxic and nonirritant; can cause dermatitis in some individuals. Use in moderation due to possible narcotic properties attributed to methyl eugenol. Should not be used during pregnancy.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Digestive system: Dyspepsia, flatulence, loss of appetite.

Genito-urinary system: Scanty periods. Immune system: Colds, ’flu, tonsillitis and viral infections.

OTHER USES: Used as a fragrance component in detergents, cosmetics, toiletries and perfumes, especially aftershaves. Extensively used in processed food of all types, as well as alcoholic and soft drinks.... laurel

Lavandin

Lavandula x intermedia

FAMILY: Lamiaceae (Labiatae)

SYNONYMS: L. hybrida, L. hortensis, bastard lavender.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A hybrid plant developed by crossing true lavender (L. angustifolia) with spike lavender or aspic (L. latifolia). Due to its hybrid nature, lavandin has a variety of forms: in general, it is a larger plant than true lavender, with woody stems. Its flowers may be blue like true lavender, or greyish like aspic.

DISTRIBUTION: A natural lavandin occurs in the mountainous regions of southern France where both parent plants grow wild, though at different altitudes. Still mainly cultivated in France, but also Spain, Hungary, Yugoslavia and Argentina.

OTHER SPECIES: There are cultivars of lavender, such as ‘Dwarf Blue’, ‘Hidcote Pink’ and ‘Bowles Early’; there are also many cultivars of lavandin such as ‘Grey Hedge’, ‘Silver Grey’ and ‘Alba’. For further information see entries on true lavender and spike lavender; also the Botanical Classification section.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Sixty years ago, when A Modern Herbal was written by Mrs Grieve, lavandin was still unknown, so it does not have a long history of therapeutic use. Its properties seem to combine those of the true lavender and aspic.

ACTIONS: See true lavender.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the fresh flowering tops; it has a higher yield of oil than either true lavender or aspic. (A concrete and absolute are also produced by solvent extraction.)

CHARACTERISTICS: A colourless or pale yellow liquid with a fresh camphoraceous topnote (which should not be too strong in a good quality oil), and a woody herbaceous undertone. It blends well with clove, bay leaf, cinnamon, citronella, cypress, pine, clary sage, geranium, thyme, patchouli, rosemary and citrus oils, especially bergamot and lime.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Linalyl acetate (30–32 per cent), linalol, cineol, camphene, pinene and other trace constituents.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, nonsensitizing.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE Similar uses to true lavender, but it is more penetrating and rubefacient with a sharper scent – good for respiratory, circulatory or muscular conditions.

OTHER USES: Extensively employed in soaps, detergents, room sprays, hair preparations and industrial perfumes. Used as a flavour ingredient in most major food categories, and also as a natural source of linalol and linalyl acetate.... lavandin

Lavender, True

Lavandula angustifolia

FAMILY: Lamiaceae (Labiatae)

SYNONYMS: L. vera, L. officinalis, garden lavender, common lavender

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An evergreen woody shrub, up to 1 metre tall, with pale green, narrow, linear leaves and flowers on blunt spikes of a beautiful violet-blue colour. The whole plant is highly aromatic.

DISTRIBUTION: Indigenous to the Mediterranean region, now cultivated all over the world. The oil is produced mainly in France, also Spain, Italy, England, Australia, Tasmania, Yugoslavia, Turkey, Russia, Bulgaria, Greece, etc.

OTHER SPECIES: There are many varieties of lavender; L. angustifolia is divided into two subspecies – L. delphinensis and L. fragrans. French lavender (L. stoechas) is a smaller shrub with dark violet flowers; see also entries on spike lavender, lavandin and the Botanical Classification section. The so-called cotton lavender (Santolina chamaecyparissus) and the sea lavender (Statice caroliniana) belong to different botanical families.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Lavender has a well-established tradition as a folk remedy, and its scent is still familiar to almost everyone. It was used to ‘comfort the stomach’ but above all as a cosmetic water, an insect repellent, to scent linen, and as a reviving yet soothing oil ‘The essential oil, or a spirit of lavender made from it, proves admirably restorative and tonic against faintness, palpitations of a nervous sort, weak giddiness, spasms and colic ... A few drops of lavender in a hot footbath has a marked influence in relieving fatigue. Outwardly applied, it relieves toothache, neuralgia, sprains and rheumatism. In hysteria, palsy and similar disorders of debility and lack of nerve power, lavender will act as a powerful stimulant.’.

ACTIONS: Analgesic, anticonvulsive, antidepressant, antimicrobial, antirheumatic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, antitoxic, carminative, cholagogue, choleretic, cicatrisant, cordial, cytophylactic, deodorant, diuretic, emmenagogue, hypotensive, insecticide, nervine, parasiticide, rubefacient, sedative, stimulant, sudorific, tonic, vermifuge, vulnerary.

EXTRACTION: 1. Essential oil by steam distillation from the fresh flowering tops. 2. An absolute and concrete are also produced by solvent extraction in smaller quantities.

CHARACTERISTICS: 1. The oil is a colourless to pale yellow liquid with a sweet, floral herbaceous scent and balsamic-woody undertone; it has a more fragrant floral scent compared to spike lavender. It blends well with most oils, especially citrus and florals; also cedarwood, clove, clary sage, pine, geranium, labdanum, oakmoss, vetiver, patchouli, etc. 2. The absolute is a dark green viscous liquid with a very sweet herbaceous, somewhat floral odour.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Over 100 constituents including linalyl acetate (up to 40 per cent), linalol, lavandulol, lavandulyl acetate, terpineol, cineol, limonene, ocimene, caryophyllene, among others. Constituents vary according to source: high altitudes generally produce more esters.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE Generally regarded as the most versatile essence therapeutically:

Skin care: Abscesses, acne, allergies, athlete’s foot, boils, bruises, burns, dandruff, dermatitis, earache, eczema, inflammations, insect bites and stings, insect repellent, lice, psoriasis, ringworm, scabies, sores, spots, all skin types, sunburn, wounds.

Circulation muscles and joints: Lumbago, muscular aches and pains, rheumatism, sprains.

Respiratory system: Asthma, bronchitis, catarrh, halitosis, laryngitis, throat infections, whooping cough.

Digestive system: Abdominal cramps, colic, dyspepsia, flatulence, nausea.

Genito-urinary system: Cystitis, dysmenorrhoea, leucorrhoea.

Immune system: ’Flu.

Nervous system: Depression, headache, hypertension, insomnia, migraine, nervous tension and stress-related conditions, PMT, sciatica, shock, vertigo.

OTHER USES: Used in pharmaceutical antiseptic ointments and as a fragrance. Extensively employed in all types of soaps, lotions, detergents, cosmetics, perfumes, etc, especially toilet waters and colognes. Employed as a flavouring agent in most categories of food as well as alcoholic and soft drinks.... lavender, true

Lime

Citrus aurantifolia

FAMILY: Rutaceae

SYNONYMS: C. medica var. acida, C. latifolia, Mexican lime, West Indian lime, sour lime.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A small evergreen tree up to 4.5 metres high, with stiff sharp spines, smooth ovate leaves and small white flowers. The bitter fruit is a pale green colour, about half the size of a lemon.

DISTRIBUTION: Probably native to south Asia; naturalized in many tropical and subtropical regions of the world. It is cultivated mainly in south Florida, the West Indies (Cuba), Central America (Mexico) and Italy.

OTHER SPECIES: There are several species of lime such as the Italian lime (C. limetta) which is used to produce an oil called ‘limette’; and the leech-lime (C. hystrix) which is occasionally used to produce an essential oil called combava.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The fruit is often used indiscriminately in place of lemon with which it shares many qualities. It is used for similar purposes including fever, infections, sore throat, colds, etc. It used to be used as a remedy for dyspepsia with glycerin of pepsin.

ACTIONS: Antirheumatic, antiscorbutic, antiseptic, antiviral, aperitif, bactericidal, febrifuge, restorative, tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by 1. cold expression of the peel of the unripe fruit; the expressed oil is preferred in perfumery work, and 2. steam distillation of the whole ripe crushed fruit (a by-product of the juice industry).

CHARACTERISTICS: 1. A pale yellow or olive-green liquid with a fresh, sweet, citrus-peel odour. 2. A water-white or pale yellow liquid with a fresh, sharp, fruity-citrus scent. It blends well with neroli, citronella, lavender, lavandin, rosemary, clary sage and other citrus oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Limonene, pinenes, camphene, sabinene, citral, cymene, cineols and linalol, among others. The expressed ‘peel’ oil, but not the ‘whole fruit’ oil, also contains coumarins.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, nonsensitizing. However, the expressed ‘peel’ oil is phototoxic (but not the steam-distilled ‘whole fruit’ oil).

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE See lemon.

OTHER USES: Both oils, but mainly the expressed, are used as fragrance components in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. Mainly the distilled oil, but also the terpeneless oil, is used by the food industry, especially in soft drinks – ‘lemon and lime’ flavour. The juice is used for the production of citric acid.... lime

Lemon

Citrus limon

FAMILY: Rutaceae

SYNONYMS: C. limonum, cedro oil.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A small evergreen tree up to 6 metres high with serrated oval leaves, stiff thorns and very fragrant flowers. The fruit turns from green to yellow on ripening.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to Asia, probably east India; it now grows wild in the Mediterranean region especially in Spain and Portugal. It is cultivated extensively worldwide in Italy, Sicily, Cyprus, Guinea, Israel, South and North America (California and Florida).

OTHER SPECIES: There are about forty-seven varieties which are said to have been developed in cultivation, such as the Java lemon (C. javanica). The lemon is also closely related to the lime, cedrat (or citron) and bergamot.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The juice and peel are widely used as a domestic seasoning. It is very nutritious, being high in vitamins A, B and C. In Spain and other European countries, lemon is something of a ‘cure-all’, especially with regard to infectious illness. It was used for fever, such as malaria and typhoid, and employed specifically for scurvy on English ships at sea.

Taken internally, the juice is considered invaluable for acidic disorders, such as arthritis and rheumatism, and of great benefit in dysentery and liver congestion.

ACTIONS: Anti-anaemic, antimicrobial, antirheumatic, antisclerotic, antiscorbutic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, antitoxic, astringent, bactericidal, carminative, cicatrisant, depurative, diaphoretic, diuretic, febrifuge, haemostatic, hypotensive, insecticidal, rubefacient, stimulates white corpuscles, tonic, vermifuge.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by cold expression from the outer part of the fresh peel. A terpeneless oil is also produced on a large scale (cedro oil).

CHARACTERISTICS: A pale greeny-yellow liquid (turning brown with age), with a light, fresh, citrus scent. It blends well with lavender, neroli, ylang ylang, rose, sandalwood, olibanum, chamomile, benzoin, fennel, geranium, eucalyptus, juniper, oakmoss, lavandin, elemi, labdanum and other citrus oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Limonene (approx. 70 per cent), terpinene, pinenes, sabinene, myrcene, citral, linalol, geraniol, octanol, nonanol, citronellal, bergamotene, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic; may cause dermal irritation or sensitization reactions in some individuals – apply in moderation. Phototoxic do not use on skin exposed to direct sunlight.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Acne, anaemia, brittle nails, boils, chilblains, corns, cuts, greasy skin, herpes, insect bites, mouth ulcers, spots, varicose veins, warts.

Circulation muscles and joints: Arthritis, cellulitis, high blood pressure, nosebleeds, obesity (congestion), poor circulation, rheumatism.

Respiratory system: Asthma, throat infections, bronchitis, catarrh.

Digestive system: Dyspepsia.

Immune system: Colds, ’flu, fever and infections.

OTHER USES: Used as a flavouring agent in pharmaceuticals. Extensively used as a fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics, toilet waters and perfumes. Extensively employed by the food industry in most types of product, including alcoholic and soft drinks.... lemon

Mint, Cornmint

Mentha arvensis

FAMILY: Lamiaceae (Labiatae)

SYNONYMS: Field mint, Japanese mint.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A rather fragile herb with leafy stems up to 60 cms high, lance-shaped leaves and lilac-coloured flowers borne in clustered whorls in the axils of the upper leaves.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to Europe and parts of Asia (Japan and China); naturalized in North America. Major producers of the oil include China, Brazil, Argentina, India and Vietnam.

OTHER SPECIES: There are many varieties and chemotypes of this herb, which is used for large-scale oil production, such as the Chinese type M. arvensis var. glabrata, and the Japanese species M. arvensis var. piperascens.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: It is used therapeutically in many of the same ways as peppermint; the bruised leaves are applied to the forehead to relieve nervous headache. In the East it is used to treat rheumatic pain, neuralgia, toothache, laryngitis, indigestion, colds and bronchitis. In Chinese medicine, it is also employed for relieving earache, treating tumours and some skin conditions.

ACTIONS: Anaesthetic, antimicrobial, antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, cytotoxic, digestive, expectorant, stimulant, stomachic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the flowering herb. The oil is usually dementholized since it contains so much menthol that it is otherwise solid at room temperature.

CHARACTERISTICS: Dementholized oil – a colourless or pale yellow liquid with a strong, fresh, bitter-sweet minty odour, somewhat like peppermint.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Menthol (70–95 per cent), menthane (10–20 per cent), pinene, menthyl acetate, isomenthone, thujone, phellandrene, piperitone and menthofuran, among others. Constituents vary according to source.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant (except in concentration); may cause sensitization in some individuals. Menthol is a dermal irritant.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE None. Use peppermint in preference, since it is not fractionated like the commercial cornmint oil and has a more refined fragrance.

OTHER USES: Used in some pharmaceutical preparations, such as cough lozenges, herb teas and syrups, mainly in the form of menthol. Extensively employed in soaps, toothpastes, detergents, cosmetics, perfumes and especially industrial fragrances. Used by the food industry especially for flavouring confectionery, liqueurs and chewing gum. However, it is mainly used for the isolation of natural menthol.... mint, cornmint

Lemongrass

Cymbopogon citratus

FAMILY: Poaceae (Gramineae)

SYNONYMS: 1. Andropogon citratus, A. schoenathus, West Indian lemongrass, Madagascar lemongrass, Guatemala lemongrass. 2. A. flexuosus, Cymbopogon flexuosus, East Indian lemongrass, Cochin lemongrass, native lemongrass, British India lemongrass, ‘vervaine Indienne’ or France Indian verbena.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A fast-growing, tall, aromatic perennial grass up to 1.5 metres high, producing a network of roots and rootlets that rapidly exhaust the soil.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to Asia, there are two main types: 1. The West Indian lemongrass which is probably native to Sri Lanka, now cultivated mainly in the West Indies, Africa and tropical Asia. Main oil producers include Guatemala and India 2. The East Indian lemongrass, which is native to east India (Travancore, etc.), now mainly cultivated in western India!

OTHER SPECIES: There are several varieties of lemongrass of which the East Indian and the West Indian types are the most common. Chemotypes within each variety are also quite pronounced.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Employed in traditional Indian medicine for infectious illness and fever; modern research carried out in India shows that it also acts as a sedative on the central nervous system. It is also used as an insecticide and for flavouring food. After the distillation process, the exhausted grass is used locally to feed cattle.

ACTIONS: Analgesic, antidepressant, antimicrobial, antioxidant, antipyretic, antiseptic, astringent, bactericidal, carminative, deodorant, febrifuge, fungicidal, galactagogue, insecticidal, nervine, sedative (nervous), tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the fresh and partially dried leaves (grass), finely chopped.

CHARACTERISTICS: 1. A yellow, amber or reddish-brown liquid with a fresh, grassy-citrus scent and an earthy undertone. 2. A yellow or amber liquid with a fresh, grassy-lemony scent, generally lighter than the West Indian type.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: 1. Citral (65–85 per cent), myrcene (12–25 per cent), dipentene, methylheptenone, linalol, geraniol, nerol, citronellol and farnesol, among others. 2. Citral (up to 85 per cent), geraniol, methyl eugenol, borneol, dipentene; constituents vary according to type.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, possible dermal irritation and/or sensitization in some individuals – use with care.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Acne, athlete’s foot, excessive perspiration, insect repellent (fleas, lice, ticks), open pores, pediculosis, scabies, tissue toner.

Circulation muscles and joints: Muscular pain, poor circulation and muscle tone, slack tissue.

Digestive system: Colitis, indigestion, gastro enteritis.

Immune system: Fevers, infectious disease.

Nervous system: Headaches, nervous exhaustion and stress-related conditions.

OTHER USES: Extensively used as a fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. Employed as a flavour ingredient in most major food categories including alcoholic and soft drinks. Also used for the isolation of citral and for the adulteration of more costly oils such as verbena or melissa.... lemongrass

Orange, Bitter

Citrus aurantium var. amara

FAMILY: Rutaceae

SYNONYMS: C. vulgaris, C. bigaradia, Seville orange, sour orange bigarade (oil).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An evergreen tree up to 10 metres high with dark green, glossy, oval leaves, paler beneath, with long but not very sharp spines. It has a smooth greyish trunk and branches, and very fragrant white flowers. The fruits are smaller and darker than the sweet orange. It is well known for its resistance to disease and is often used as root stock for other citrus trees, including the sweet orange.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Far East, especially India and China, but has become well adapted to the Mediterranean climate. It also grows abundantly in the USA (California), Israel and South America. Main producers of the oil include Spain, Guinea, the West Indies, Italy, Brazil and the USA.

OTHER SPECIES: There are numerous different species according to location – oils from Spain and Guinea are said to be of superior quality.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: ‘Oranges and lemons strengthen the heart, are good for diminishing the coagubility of the blood, and are beneficial for palpitation, scurvy, jaundice, bleedings, heartburn, relaxed throat, etc. They are powerfully anti-scorbutic, either internally or externally applied.’. The dried bitter orange peel is used as a tonic and carminative in treating dyspepsia.

In Chinese medicine the dried bitter orange and occasionally its peel are used in treating prolapse of the uterus and of the anus, diarrhoea, and blood in the faeces. Ingestion of large amounts of orange peel in children, however, has been reported to cause toxic effects.

ACTIONS: Anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, astringent, bactericidal, carminative, choleretic, fungicidal, sedative (mild), stomachic, tonic.

EXTRACTION: An essential oil by cold expression (hand or machine pressing) from the outer peel of the almost ripe fruit. (A terpeneless oil is also produced.) The leaves are used for the production of petitgrain oil; the blossom for neroli oil.

CHARACTERISTICS: A dark yellow or brownish-yellow mobile liquid with a fresh, dry, almost floral odour with a rich, sweet undertone.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Over 90 per cent monoterpenes: mainly limonene, myrcene, camphene, pinene, ocimene, cymene, and small amounts of alcohols, aldehydes and ketones.

SAFETY DATA: Phototoxic; otherwise generally non-toxic, non-irritant and non sensitizing. Limonene has been reported to cause contact dermatitis in some individuals.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE See sweet orange.

OTHER USES: Used in certain stomachic, laxative and carminative preparations. Employed as a fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics, colognes and perfumes. Extensively used as a flavouring material, especially in liqueurs and soft drinks. Also utilized as a starting material for the isolation of naturallimonene.... orange, bitter

Marjoram, Sweet

Origanum majorana

FAMILY: Lamiaceae (Labiatae)

SYNONYMS: Marjorana hortensis, knotted marjoram.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tender bushy perennial plant (cultivated as an annual in colder climates), up to 60 cms high with a hairy stem, dark green oval leaves and small greyish white flowers in clusters or ‘knots’. The whole plant is strongly aromatic.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Mediterranean region, Egypt and North Africa. Major oil-producing countries include France, Tunisia, Morocco, Egypt, Bulgaria, Hungary and Germany.

ACTIONS: Analgesic, anaphrodisiac, antioxidant, antiseptic, antispasmodic, antiviral, bactericidal, carminative, cephalic, cordial, diaphoretic, digestive, diuretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, fungicidal, hypotensive, laxative, nervine, sedative, stomachic, tonic, vasodilator, vulnerary.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation of the dried flowering herb. An oleoresin is also produced in smaller quantities.

CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow or amber coloured mobile liquid with a warm, woody, spicy camphoraceous odour. It blends well with lavender, rosemary, bergamot, chamomile, cypress, cedarwood, tea tree and eucalyptus.

OTHER SPECIES: There is a great deal of confusion regarding the various species of marjoram or oregano. The most common types are the pot or French marjoram (Origanum onites or Marjorana onites), which is a hardier plant than the sweet marjoram and of a spreading nature; the Spanish marjoram or oregano (Thymus mastichina) and the wild or common marjoram or oregano (Origanum vulgare) which is used to produce the so-called ‘oregano oil’. See entries on common oregano, Spanish oregano and also the Botanical Classification section.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: A traditional culinary herb and folk remedy. It was used by the ancient Greeks in their fragrances, cosmetics and medicines; the name oregano derives from a Greek word meaning ‘joy of the mountains’. lt is a versatile herb which has a soothing, fortifying and warming effect; it aids digestive and menstrual problems, as well as nervous and respiratory complaints.

It is ‘comforting in cold diseases of the head, stomach, sinews and other parts, taken inwardly or outwardly applied ... helps diseases of the chest, obstructions of the liver and spleen.’. It is also very helpful for muscular and rheumatic pain, sprains, strains, stiff joints, bruises, etc.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Terpinenes, terpineol, sabinenes, linalol, carvacrol, linalyl acetate, ocimene, cadinene, geranyl acetate, citral, eugenol, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing. Not to be used during pregnancy.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Chilblains, bruises, ticks.

Circulation muscles and joints: Arthritis, lumbago, muscular aches and stiffness, rheumatism, sprains, strains.

Respiratory system: Asthma, bronchitis, coughs.

Digestive system: Colic, constipation, dyspepsia, flatulence.

Genito-urinary system: Amenorrhoea, dysmenorrhoea, leucorrhoea, PMT.

Immune system: Colds.

Nervous system: Headache, hypertension, insomnia, migraine, nervous tension and stress-related conditions.

OTHER USES: The oil and oleoresin are used as fragrance components in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. Employed in most major food categories, especially meats, seasonings and sauces, as well as soft drinks and alcoholic beverages such as vermouths and bitters.... marjoram, sweet

Pennyroyal

Mentha pulegium

FAMILY: Lamiaceae (Labiatae)

SYNONYMS: Pulegium, European pennyroyal, pudding grass.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A perennial herb up to 50 cms tall with smooth roundish stalks, small, pale purple flowers and very aromatic, grey-green, oval leaves. Like other members of the mint family, it has a fibrous creeping root.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to Europe and parts of Asia; it is cultivated mainly in southern Spain, Morocco, Tunisia, Portugal, Italy, Yugoslavia and Turkey.

OTHER SPECIES: There are several different varieties of pennyroyal according to location: in Britain the ‘erecta’ and ‘decumbens’ types are most common. The North American pennyroyal (Hedeoma pulegoides), which is also used to produce an essential oil, belongs to a slightly different species, though it shares similar properties with the European variety.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: A herbal remedy of ancient repute, used for a wide variety of ailments. It was believed to purify the blood and also be able to communicate its purifying qualities to water. ‘Pennyroyal water was distilled from the leaves and given as an antidote to spasmodic, nervous and hysterical affections. It was also used against cold and “affections of the joints”.’.

It is still current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia, indicated for flatulent dyspepsia, intestinal colic, the common cold, delayed menstruation, cutaneous eruptions and gout.

ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antispasmodic, diaphoretic, carminative, digestive, emmenagogue, insect repellent, refrigerant, stimulant.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the fresh or slightly dried herb.

CHARACTERISTICS: A colourless or pale yellow liquid with a very fresh, minty herbaceous odour. It blends well with geranium, rosemary, lavandin, sage and citronella.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly pulegone, with menthone, iso-menthone, octanol, piperitenone and trans-iso-pulegone. Constituents vary according to source – the Moroccan oil contains up to 96 per cent pulegone.

SAFETY DATA: Oral toxin. Abortifacient (due to pulegone content). Ingestion of large doses has resulted in death.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE None. ‘Should not be used in aromatherapy whether internally or externally.’.

OTHER USES: Used as a fragrance material mainly in detergents or low-cost industrial perfumes. Mainly employed as a source of natural pulegone.... pennyroyal

Mint, Peppermint

Mentha piperita

FAMILY: Lamiaceae (Labiatae)

SYNONYMS: Brandy mint, balm mint.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A perennial herb up to 1 metre high with underground runners by which it is easily propagated. The ‘white’ peppermint has green stems and leaves; the ‘black’ peppermint has dark green serrated leaves, purplish stems and reddish-violet flowers.

DISTRIBUTION: Originally a cultivated hybrid between M. viridis and M. aquatica, known to have been propagated from before the seventeenth century in England. Naturalized throughout Europe and America, it is cultivated worldwide. The oil is produced mainly in France, England, America, Russia, Bulgaria, Italy, Hungary, Morocco and China.

OTHER SPECIES: There are several different strains or chemotypes of peppermint. In addition there are numerous other species of mint, such as spearmint, apple mint, pennyroyal, water mint and pineapple mint – some of which are used to produce essential oils (see Botanical Classification section). Peppermints grown in northern regions, including the Mitcham peppermint, are considered of superior quality.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Mints have been cultivated since ancient times in China and Japan. In Egypt evidence of a type of peppermint has been found in tombs dating from 1000 BC. It has been used extensively in Eastern and Western medicine for a variety of complaints, including indigestion, nausea, sore throat, diarrhoea, headaches, toothaches and cramp.

It is current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia for intestinal colic, flatulence, common cold, vomiting in pregnancy and dysmenorrhoea.

ACTIONS: Analgesic, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antiphlogistic, antipruritic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, antiviral, astringent, carminative, cephalic, cholagogue, cordial, emmenagogue, expectorant, febrifuge, hepatic, nervine, stomachic, sudorific, vasoconstrictor, vermifuge.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the flowering herb (approx. 3–4 per cent yield).

CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow or greenish liquid with a highly penetrating, grassy-minty camphoraceous odour. It blends well with benzoin, rosemary, lavender, marjoram, lemon, eucalyptus and other mints.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Menthol (29–48 per cent), menthane (20–31 per cent), menthyl acetate, menthofuran, limonene, pulegone, cineol, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant (except in concentration), possible sensitization due to menthol. Use in moderation.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Acne, dermatitis, ringworm, scabies, toothache.

Circulation muscles and joints: Neuralgia, muscular pain, palpitations.

Respiratory system: Asthma, bronchitis, halitosis, sinusitis, spasmodic cough – ‘When inhaled (in steam) it checks catarrh temporarily, and will provide relief from head colds and bronchitis: its antispasmodic action combines well with this to make it a most useful inhalation in asthma.’.

Digestive system: Colic, cramp, dyspepsia, flatulence, nausea.

Immune system: Colds, ’flu, fevers.

Nervous system: Fainting, headache, mental fatigue, migraine, nervous stress, vertigo.

OTHER USES: Flavouring agent in pharmaceuticals, and ingredient in cough, cold and digestive remedies. Flavouring agent in many foods, especially chewing gum and sweets, alcoholic and soft drinks; also widely used to flavour tobacco. Fragrance component in soaps, toothpaste, detergents, cosmetics, colognes and perfumes.... mint, peppermint

Petitgrain

Citrus aurantium var. amara

FAMILY: Rutaceae

SYNONYMS: C. bigaradia, petitgrain bigarade (oil), petitgrain Paraguay (oil). See also bitter orange.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: The oil of petitgrain is produced from the leaves and twigs of the same tree that produces bitter orange oil and neroli oil: see bitter orange and neroli.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to southern China and north east India. The best quality petitgrain oil comes from France but a good-quality oil is also produced in North Africa, Paraguay and Haiti from semi-wild trees.

OTHER SPECIES: A type of petitgrain is also produced in small quantities from the leaves, twigs and small unripe fruit of the lemon, sweet orange, mandarin and bergamot trees.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: At one time the oil used to be extracted from the green unripe oranges when they were still the size of a cherry – hence the name petitgrains or ‘little grains’. One of the classic ingredients of eau-de-cologne.

ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antispasmodic, deodorant, digestive, nervine, stimulant (digestive, nervous), stomachic, tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the leaves and twigs. An orange ‘leaf and flower’ water absolute is also produced, known as petitgrain sur fleurs.

CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow to amber liquid with a fresh-floral citrus scent and a woody-herbaceous undertone. It blends well with rosemary, lavender, geranium, bergamot, bitter orange, labdanum, neroli, oakmoss, clary sage, jasmine, benzoin, palmarosa, clove and balsams.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: 40–80 per cent esters: mainly linalyl acetate and geranyl acetate, as well as linalol, nerol, terpineol, geraniol, nerolidol, farnesol, limonene, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, nonsensitizing, non-phototoxic.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Acne, excessive perspiration, greasy skin and hair, toning.

Digestive system: Dyspepsia, flatulence.

Nervous system: Convalescence, insomnia, nervous exhaustion and stress-related conditions.

OTHER USES: Extensively used as a fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes, especially colognes (sometimes used to replace neroli). Employed as a flavour component in many foods, especially confectionery, as well as alcoholic and soft drinks.... petitgrain

Myrrh

Commiphora myrrha

FAMILY: Burseraceae

SYNONYMS: Balsamodendron myrrha, gum myrrh, common myrrh, hirabol myrrh, myrrha.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: The Commiphora species which yield myrrh are shrubs or small trees up to 10 metres high. They have sturdy knotted branches, trifoliate aromatic leaves and small white flowers. The trunk exudes a natural oleoresin, a pale yellow liquid which hardens into reddish-brown tears, known as myrrh. The native collectors make incisions in the bark of the tree to increase the yield.

DISTRIBUTION: The Commiphora species are native to north east Africa and south west Asia, especially the Red Sea region (Somalia, Yemen and Ethiopia).

OTHER SPECIES: There are several C. species which yield myrrh oleoresin: African or Somali myrrh (C. molmol) and Arabian or Yemen myrrh (C. abyssinica). Bisabol myrrh or opopanax (C. erthraea) also belongs to the same family.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Myrrh has been employed since the earliest times in Eastern and Western medicine; its use is mentioned some 3700 years ago. The ancient Egyptians used it for embalming purposes and in their perfumes and cosmetics. In China it is used for arthritis, menstrual problems, sores and haemorrhoids. In the West it is considered to have an ‘opening, heating, drying nature’ (Joseph Miller), good for asthma, coughs, common cold, catarrh, sore throat, weak gums and teeth, ulcers and sores. It has also been used to treat leprosy.

Current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for mouth ulcers, gingivitis and pharyngitis.

ACTIONS: Anticatarrhal, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antiphlogistic, antiseptic, astringent, balsamic, carminative, cicatrisant, emmenagogue, expectorant, fungicidal, revitalizing, sedative, stimulant (digestive, pulmonary), stomachic, tonic, uterine, vulnerary.

EXTRACTION: 1. Resinoid (and resin absolute) by solvent extraction of the crude myrrh. 2. Essential oil by steam distillation of the crude myrrh.

CHARACTERISTICS: 1. The resinoid is a dark reddish-brown viscous mass, with a warm, rich, spicy-balsamic odour. It is not pourable at room temperature so a solvent, such as diethyl phthalate, is sometimes added. 2. The essential oil is a pale yellow to amber oily liquid with a warm, sweet-balsamic, slightly spicy-medicinal odour. It blends well with frankincense, sandalwood, benzoin, oakmoss, cypress, juniper, mandarin, geranium, patchouli, thyme, mints, lavender, pine and spices.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: The crude contains resins, gum and about 8 per cent essential oil composed mainly of heerabolene, limonene, dipentene, pinene, eugenol, cinnamaldehyde, cuminaldehyde, cadinene, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-irritant, non-sensitizing, possibly toxic in high concentration. Not to be used during pregnancy.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Athlete’s foot, chapped and cracked skin, eczema, mature complexions, ringworm, wounds, wrinkles.

Circulation muscles and joints: Arthritis.

Respiratory system: Asthma, bronchitis, catarrh, coughs, gum infections, gingivitis, mouth ulcers, sore throat, voice loss.

Digestive system: Diarrhoea, dyspepsia, flatulence, haemorrhoids, loss of appetite.

Genito-urinary system: Amenorrhoea, leucorrhoea, pruritis, thrush.

Immune system: Colds.

OTHER USES: The oil, resinoid and tincture are used in pharmaceutical products, including mouthwashes, gargles and toothpaste; also used in dentistry. The oil and resinoid are used as fixatives and fragrance components in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes, especially oriental types and heavy florals. Used as flavour ingredients in most major food categories, alcoholic and soft drinks.... myrrh

Pine, Longleaf

Pinus palustris

FAMILY: Pinaceae

SYNONYMS: Longleaf yellow pine, southern yellow pine, pitch pine, pine (oil).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall evergreen tree with long needles and a straight trunk, grown extensively for its timber. It exudes a natural oleoresin from the trunk, which provides the largest source for the production of turpentine in America – see also entry on turpentine.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to south eastern USA, where the oil is largely produced.

OTHER SPECIES: There are numerous other species of pine all over the world which are used to produce pine oil, as well as pine needle and turpentine oil – see Botanical Classification section.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Pine sawdust has been used for centuries as a highly esteemed household remedy for a variety of ailments. ‘It is a grand, gentle, although powerful external antiseptic remedy, applied as a poultice in rheumatism when localised, hard cancerous tumours, tuberculosis in the knee or ankle joints, disease of the bone, in short, all sluggish morbid deposits ... I have used it behind the head for failing sight, down the spine for general debility, on the loins for lumbago, etc. all with the best results.’.

ACTIONS: Analgesic (mild), antirheumatic, antiseptic, bactericidal, expectorant, insecticidal, stimulant.

EXTRACTION: The crude oil is obtained by steam distillation from the sawdust and wood chips from the heartwood and roots of the tree (wastage from the timber mills), and then submitted to fractional distillation under atmospheric pressure to produce pine essential oil.

CHARACTERISTICS: A water-white or pale yellow liquid with a sweet-balsamic, pinewood scent. It blends well with rosemary, pine needle, cedarwood, citronella, rosewood, ho leaf and oakmoss.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Terpineol, estragole, fenchone, fenchyl alcohol and borneol, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic; non-irritant (except in concentration); possible sensitization in some individuals.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Circulation muscles and joints: Arthritis, debility, lumbago, muscular aches and pains, poor circulation, rheumatism, stiffness, etc.

Respiratory system: Asthma, bronchitis, catarrh, sinusitis.

OTHER USES: Used extensively in medicine, particularly in veterinary antiseptic sprays, disinfectants, detergents and insecticides (as a solvent carrier). Employed as a fragrance component in soaps, toiletries, bath products and perfumes. Also used in paint manufacture although it is increasingly being replaced by synthetic ‘pine oil’.... pine, longleaf

Nutmeg

Myristica fragrans

FAMILY: Myristicaceae

SYNONYMS: M. officinalis, M. aromata, Nux moschata, myristica (oil), mace (husk), macis (oil).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An evergreen tree up to 20 metres high with a greyish-brown smooth bark, dense foliage and small dull-yellow flowers. ‘Mace’ is the name given to the bright red netlike aril or husk surrounding the nutmeg shell and seed, which is contained within the fleshy fruit.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Moluccas and nearby islands; cultivated in Indonesia, Sri Lanka and the West Indies, especially Grenada.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam (or water) distillation from 1. the dried worm eaten nutmeg seed (the worms eat away all the starch and fat content); 2. the dried orangebrown aril or husk – mace; and 3. an oleoresin is also produced in small quantities by solvent extraction from mace. The oil is also distilled in the USA and Europe from the imported nutmegs.

OTHER SPECIES: Indonesia and Sri Lanka produce the so-called ‘East Indian’ nutmeg which is considered superior, while Grenada produces the ‘West Indian’ nutmeg – see also Botanical Classification.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Nutmeg and mace are widely used as domestic spices in the East and West. They have been used for centuries as a remedy mainly for digestive and kidney problems. In Malaysia they are used during pregnancy to strengthen and tone the uterine muscles. Grated nutmeg with lard is used for piles. A fixed oil of nutmeg is also used in soap and candle making.

Nutmeg is current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia indicated for flatulent dyspepsia, nausea, diarrhoea, dysentery, and topically for rheumatism.

ACTIONS: Analgesic, anti-emetic, antioxidant, antirheumatic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, aphrodisiac, carminative, digestive, emmenagogue, gastric secretory stimulant, larvicidal, orexigenic, prostaglandin inhibitor, stimulant, tonic.

CHARACTERISTICS: 1. A water-white or pale yellow mobile liquid with a sweet, warm-spicy odour and a terpeney top-note. 2. A water white or pale yellow mobile liquid with a sweet, warm-spicy scent. 3. An orange-brown viscous liquid with a fresh, spicy-warm, balsamic fragrance. It has good masking power.

They blend well with oakmoss, lavandin, bay leaf, Peru balsam, orange, geranium, clary sage, rosemary, lime, petitgrain, mandarin, coriander and other spice oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly monoterpene hydrocarbons (88 per cent approx.): camphene, pinene, dipentene, sabinene, cymene, with lesser amounts of geraniol, borneol, linalol, terpineol, myristicin (4–8 per cent), safrol and elemincin, among others. Mace oil contains similar constituents but contains more myristicin.

SAFETY DATA: Both nutmeg and mace are generally non-toxic, non-irritant and non sensitizing. However, used in large doses they show signs of toxicity such as nausea, stupor and tachycardia, believed to be due to the myristicin content. ‘Large quantities are hallucinogenic and excitant to the motor cortex.’. On this basis nutmeg (especially the West Indian type) is probably safer to use than mace. Use in moderation, and with care in pregnancy.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Circulation muscles and joints: Arthritis, gout, muscular aches and pains, poor circulation, rheumatism.

Digestive system: Flatulence, indigestion, nausea, sluggish digestion.

Immune system: Bacterial infection.

Nervous system: Frigidity, impotence, neuralgia, nervous fatigue.

OTHER USES: Used as a flavouring agent in pharmaceuticals, especially analgesic and tonic preparations. Nutmeg and mace oil are used in soaps, lotions, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. Mace oleoresin is used in colognes and perfumes, especially men’s fragrances. Both oils and oleoresin are used in most major food categories, including alcoholic and soft drinks.... nutmeg

Sage, Common

Salvia officinalis

FAMILY: Lamiaceae (Labiatae)

SYNONYMS: Garden sage, true sage, Dalmatian sage.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An evergreen, shrubby, perennial herb up to 80 cms high with a woody base, soft, silver, oval leaves and a mass of deep blue or violet flowers.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Mediterranean region; cultivated worldwide especially in Albania, Yugoslavia, Greece, Italy, Turkey, France, China and the USA.

OTHER SPECIES: There are several different species and cultivars which have been developed, such as the Mexican sage (S. azurea grandiflora) and the red sage (S. colorata) both of which are used medicinally. Essential oils are also produced from other species including the Spanish sage (S. lavendulaefolia) and clary sage (S. selarea) – see separate entries and Botanical Classification section.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: A herb of ancient repute, valued as a culinary and medicinal plant – called herba sacra or ‘sacred herb’ by the Romans. It has been used for a variety of disorders including respiratory infections, menstrual difficulties and digestive complaints. It was also believed to strengthen the senses and the memory.

It is still current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for inflammations of the mouth, tongue and throat.

ACTIONS: Anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anti-oxidant, antiseptic, antispasmodic, astringent, digestive, diuretic, emmenagogue, febrifuge, hypertensive, insecticidal, laxative, stomachic, tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the dried leaves. (A so-called ‘oleoresin’ is also produced from the exhausted plant material.)

CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow mobile liquid with a fresh, warm-spicy, herbaceous, somewhat camphoraceous odour. It blends well with lavandin, rosemary, rosewood, lavender, hyssop, lemon and other citrus oils. The common sage oil is preferred in perfumery work to the Spanish sage oil which, although safer, has a less refined fragrance.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Thujone (about 42 per cent), cineol, borneol, caryophyllene and other terpenes.

SAFETY DATA: Oral toxin (due to thujone). Abortifacient; avoid in pregnancy. Avoid in epilepsy. Use with care or avoid in therapeutic work altogether – Spanish sage or clary sage are good alternatives.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE None.

OTHER USES: Used in some pharmaceutical preparations such as mouthwashes, gargles, toothpastes, etc. Employed as a fragrance component in soaps, shampoos, detergents, anti-perspirants, colognes and perfumes, especially men’s fragrances. The oil and oleoresin are extensively used for flavouring foods (mainly meat products), soft drinks and alcoholic beverages, especially vermouth. It also serves as a source of natural anti-oxidants.... sage, common

Orange, Sweet

Citrus sinensis

FAMILY: Rutaceae

SYNONYMS: C. aurantium var. dulcis, C. aurantium var. sinensis, China orange, Portugal orange.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An evergreen tree, smaller than the bitter variety, less hardy with fewer or no spines. The fruit has a sweet pulp and non-bitter membranes. Another distinguishing feature is the shape of the leaf stalk: the bitter orange is broader and in the shape of a heart.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to China; extensively cultivated especially in America (California and Florida) and round the Mediterranean (France, Spain, Italy). The expressed oil is mainly produced in Israel, Cyprus, Brazil and North America; the distilled oil mainly comes from the Mediterranean and North America.

OTHER SPECIES: There are numerous cultivated varieties of sweet orange, for example Jaffa, Navel and Valencia. There are also many other subspecies such as the Japanese orange (C. aurantium var. natsudaidai). See also bitter orange.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: A very nutritious fruit, containing vitamins A, B and C. In Chinese medicine the dried sweet orange peel is used to treat coughs, colds, anorexia and malignant breast sores. Li Shih-chen says: ‘The fruits of all the different species and varieties of citrus are considered by the Chinese to be cooling. If eaten in excess they are thought to increase the “phlegm”, and this is probably not advantageous to the health. The sweet varieties increase bronchial secretion, and the sour promote expectoration. They all quench thirst, and are stomachic and carminative.’.

ACTIONS: Antidepressant, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, bactericidal, carminative, choleretic, digestive, fungicidal, hypotensive, sedative (nervous), stimulant (digestive and lymphatic), stomachic, tonic.

EXTRACTION: 1. Essential oil by cold expression (hand or machine) of the fresh ripe or almost ripe outer peel. 2. Essential oil by steam distillation of the fresh ripe or almost ripe outer peel. An oil of inferior quality is also produced by distillation from the essences recovered as a byproduct of orange juice manufacture. Distilled sweet orange oil oxidizes very quickly, and anti-oxidant agents are often added at the place of production. (An oil from the flowers is also produced occasionally called neroli Portugal or neroli petalae; an oil from the leaves is also produced in small quantities.)

SYNONYM: 1. A yellowy-orange or dark orange mobile liquid with a sweet, fresh fruity scent, richer than the distilled oil. It blends well with lavender, neroli, lemon, clary sage, myrrh and spice oils such as nutmeg, cinnamon and clove.

2. A pale yellow or colourless mobile liquid with a sweet, light-fruity scent, but little tenacity.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Over 90 per cent monoterpenes, mainly limonene. The cold expressed oil also contains bergapten, auraptenol and acids.

SAFETY DATA: Generally non-toxic (although ingestion of large amounts of orange peel has been known to be fatal to children); non-irritant and non-sensitizing (although limonene has been found to cause dermatitis in a few individuals). Distilled orange oil is phototoxic: its use on the skin should be avoided if there is danger of exposure to direct sunlight. However, there is no evidence to show that expressed sweet orange oil is phototoxic although it too contains coumarins.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Dull and oily complexions, mouth ulcers.

Circulation muscles and joints: Obesity, palpitations, water retention.

Respiratory system: Bronchitis, chills.

Digestive system: Constipation, dyspepsia, spasm.

Immune system: Colds, ’flu.

Nervous system: Nervous tension and stressrelated conditions.

OTHER USES: Sweet orange peel tincture is used to flavour pharmaceuticals. Extensively used as a fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes, especially eau-de-colognes. Extensively used in all areas of the food and drinks industry (more so than the bitter orange oil). Used as the starting material for the isolation of naturallimonene.... orange, sweet

Spruce, Hemlock

Tsuga canadensis

FAMILY: Pinaceae

SYNONYMS: Pinus canadensis, Abies canadensis, spruce, eastern hemlock, common hemlock, hemlock (oil), spruce (oil), fir needle (oil).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A large evergreen tree up to 50 metres tall, with slender horizontal branches, finely toothed leaves and smallish brown cones, which yields a natural exudation from its bark.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the west coast of the USA. The oil is produced in Vermont, New York, New Hampshire, Virginia and Wisconsin.

OTHER SPECIES: Numerous cultivars of this species exist; often the oil is produced from a mixture of different types. Similar oils, also called simply ‘spruce oil’ are produced from the black spruce (Picea nigra or mariana), the Norway spruce (P. abies) and the white or Canadian spruce (P. glauca). The essential oil from the western hemlock (Tsuga heterophylla), contains quite different constituents. It is also closely related to the Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga taxifolia), which is also used to produce an essential oil and a balsam.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The bark of the hemlock spruce (which contains tannins and resin as well as volatile oil) is current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia indicated for diarrhoea, cystitis, mucous colitis, leucorrhoea, uterine prolapse, pharyngitis, stomatitis and gingivitis. An extract of the bark is also used in the tanning industry.

ACTIONS: Antimicrobial, antiseptic, antitussive, astringent, diaphoretic, diuretic, expectorant, nervine, rubefacient, tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the needles and twigs.

CHARACTERISTICS: A colourless or pale yellow liquid with a pleasing, fresh-balsamic, sweet-fruity odour. It blends well with pine, oakmoss, cedarwood, galbanum, benzoin, lavender, lavandin and rosemary.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly pinenes, limonene, bornyl acetate, tricyclene, phellandrene, myrcene, thujone, dipentene and cadinene, among others. Constituents vary according to source and exact botanical species (sometimes mixed).

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Circulation muscles and joints: Muscular aches and pains, poor circulation, rheumatism.

Respiratory system: Asthma, bronchitis, coughs, respiratory weakness.

Immune system: Colds, ’flu, infections.

Nervous system: Anxiety, stress-related conditions – ‘opening and elevating through grounding ... excellent for yoga and meditation.’.

OTHER USES: Used in veterinary liniments. Extensively used for room spray perfumes, household detergents, soaps, bath preparations and toiletries, especially in the USA.... spruce, hemlock

Parsley

Petroselinum sativum

FAMILY: Apiaceae (Umbelliferae)

SYNONYMS: P. hortense, Apium petroselinum, Carum petroselinum, common parsley, garden parsley.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A biennial or shortlived perennial herb up to 70 cms high with crinkly bright green foliage, small greenish-yellow flowers and producing small brown seeds.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Mediterranean region, especially Greece. It is cultivated extensively, mainly in California, Germany, France, Belgium, Hungary and parts of Asia. The principal oil-producing countries are France, Germany, Holland and Hungary.

OTHER SPECIES: There are over thirty-seven different varieties of parsley, such as the curly leaved type (P. crispum), which is used in herbal medicine.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: It is used extensively as a culinary herb, both fresh and dried. It is a very nutritious plant, high in vitamins A and C; also used to freshen the breath. The herb and seed are used medicinally, principally for kidney and bladder problems, but it has also been employed for menstrual difficulties, digestive complaints and for arthritis, rheumatism, rickets and sciatica. It is said to stimulate hair growth, and help eliminate head lice.

The root is current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for flatulent dyspepsia with intestinal colic.

ACTIONS: Antimicrobial, antirheumatic, antiseptic, astringent, carminative, diuretic, depurative, emmenagogue, febrifuge, hypotensive, laxative, stimulant (mild), stomachic, tonic (uterine).

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from 1. the seed, and 2. the herb. (An essential oil is occasionally extracted from the roots; an oleoresin is also produced by solvent extraction from the seeds.)

CHARACTERISTICS: 1. A yellow, amber or brownish liquid with a warm woody-spicy herbaceous odour. 2. A pale yellow or greenish liquid with a heavy, warm, spicy-sweet odour, reminiscent of the herb. It blends well with rose, neroli, cananga, tea tree, oakmoss, clary sage and spice oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: 1. Mainly apiol, with myristicin, tetramethoxyally benzene, pinene and volatile fatty acids. 2. Mainly myristicin (up to 85 per cent), with phellandrene, myrcene, apiol, terpinolene, menthatriene, pinene and carotel, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Both oils are moderately toxic and irritant – myristicin has been shown to have toxic properties, and apiol has been shown to have irritant properties; otherwise non sensitizing. Use in moderation. Avoid during pregnancy.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Circulation muscles and joints: Accumulation of toxins, arthritis, broken blood vessels, cellulitis, rheumatism, sciatica.

Digestive system: Colic, flatulence, indigestion, haemorrhoids.

Genito-urinary system: Amenorrhoea, dysmenorrhoea, to aid labour, cystitis, urinary infection.

OTHER USES: Used in some carminative and digestive remedies, such as ‘gripe waters’. The seed oil is used in soaps, detergents, colognes, cosmetics and perfumes, especially men’s fragrances. The herb and seed oil as well as the oleoresin are used extensively in many types of food flavourings, especially meats, pickles and sauces, as well as alcoholic and soft drinks.... parsley

Tarragon

Artemisia dracunculus

FAMILY: Asteraceae (Compositae)

SYNONYMS: Estragon (oil), little dragon, Russian tarragon.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A perennial herb with smooth narrow leaves; an erect stem up to 1.2 metres tall, and small yellowy-green, inconspicuous flowers.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to Europe, southern Russia and western Asia. Now cultivated worldwide, especially in Europe and the USA. The oil is mainly produced in France, Holland, Hungary and the USA.

OTHER SPECIES: The so-called French tarragon or ‘sativa’, which is cultivated as a garden herb, is a smaller plant with a sharper flavour than the Russian type and is a sterile derivative of the wild species.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The leaf is commonly used as domestic herb, especially with chicken or fish, and to make tarragon vinegar. The name is thought to derive from an ancient use as an antidote to the bites of venomous creatures and ‘madde dogges’. It was favoured by the maharajahs of India who took it as a tisane, and in Persia it was used to induce appetite.

‘The leaves, which are chiefly used, are heating and drying, and good for those that have the flux, or any prenatural discharge.’. The leaf was also formerly used for digestive and menstrual irregularities, while the root was employed as a remedy for toothache.

ACTIONS: Anthelmintic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, aperitif, carminative, digestive, diuretic, emmenagogue, hypnotic, stimulant, stomachic, vermifuge.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the leaves.

CHARACTERISTICS: A colourless or pale yellow mobile liquid (turning yellow with age), with a sweet-anisic, spicy-green scent. It blends well with labdanum, galbanum, lavender, oakmoss, vanilla, pine and basil.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Estragole (up to 70 per cent), capillene, ocimene, nerol, phellandrene, thujone and cineol, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Moderately toxic due to ‘estragole’ (methyl chavicol); use in moderation only. Possibly carcinogenic. Otherwise non-irritant, non-sensitizing. Avoid during pregnancy.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Digestive system: Anorexia, dyspepsia, flatulence, hiccoughs, intestinal spasm, nervous indigestion, sluggish digestion.

Genito-urinary system: Amenorrhoea, dysmenorrhoea, PMT.

OTHER USES: Used as a fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. Employed as a flavour ingredient in most major food categories, especially condiments and relishes, as well as alcoholic and soft drinks.... tarragon

Pine, Scotch

Pinus sylvestris

FAMILY: Pinaceae

SYNONYMS: Forest pine, Scots pine, Norway pine, pine needle (oil).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall evergreen tree, up to 40 metres high with a flat crown. It has a reddish-brown, deeply fissured bark, long stiff needles which grow in pairs, and pointed brown cones.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to Eurasia; cultivated in the eastern USA, Europe, Russia, the Baltic States and Scandinavia, especially Finland.

OTHER SPECIES: Like the fir tree, there are numerous species of pine which yield an essential oil from their heartwood as well as from their twigs and needles and are also used to produce turpentine. The oil from the needles of the Scotch pine is one of the most useful and safest therapeutically. Other species which produce pine needle oil include the eastern white pine (P. strobus) from the eastern USA and Canada, the dwarf pine (P. mugo var. pumilio) grown in central and southern Europe, and the black pine (P. nigra) from Austria and Yugoslavia.

Many varieties, such as the longleaf pine (Pinus palustris), are used to produce turpentine. In addition, the oil commonly known as Siberian pine needle oil is actually from the Siberian fir (Abies sibirica). See also dwarf pine and the Botanical Classification section.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The young macerated shoots are added to the bath for nervous exhaustion, circulatory disorders, slow, healing wounds, arthritis, rheumatism and skin disorders. It was used by the American Indians to prevent scurvy, and to stuff mattresses to repel lice and fleas.

As an inhalation it helps relieve bronchial catarrh, asthma, blocked sinuses, etc. The pine kernels are said to be excellent restoratives for consumptives, and after long illness.

ACTIONS: Antimicrobial, antineuralgic, antirheumatic, antiscorbutic, antiseptic (pulmonary, urinary, hepatic), antiviral, bactericidal, balsamic, cholagogue, choleretic, deodorant, diuretic, expectorant, hypertensive, insecticidal, restorative, rubefacient, stimulant (adrenal cortex, circulatory, nervous), vermifuge.

EXTRACTION: 1. Essential oil by dry distillation of the needles. 2. Gum turpentine is produced by steam distillation from the oleoresin: see entry on turpentine. (An inferior essential oil is also produced by dry distillation from the wood chippings, etc.)

CHARACTERISTICS: 1. Pine needle oil is a colourless or pale yellow mobile liquid with a strong, dry-balsamic, turpentine-like aroma. It blends well with cedarwood, rosemary, tea tree, sage, lavender, juniper, lemon, niaouli, eucalyptus and marjoram. 2. See entry on turpentine.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: 50–90 per cent monoterpene hydrocarbons: pinenes, carene, dipentene, limonene, terpinenes, myrcene, ocimene, camphene, sabinene; also bornyl acetate, cineol, citral, chamazulene, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant (except in concentration), possible sensitization. Avoid in allergic skin conditions.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Cuts, lice, excessive perspiration, scabies, sores.

Circulation muscles and joints: Arthritis, gout, muscular aches and pains, poor circulation, rheumatism.

Respiratory system: Asthma, bronchitis, catarrh, coughs, sinusitis, sore throat.

Genito-urinary system: Cystitis, urinary infection.

Immune system: Colds, ’flu.

Nervous system: Fatigue, nervous exhaustion and stress-related conditions, neuralgia.

OTHER USES: Used as a fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics, toiletries (especially bath products) and, to a limited extent, perfumes. Employed as a flavour ingredient in major food products, alcoholic and soft drinks.... pine, scotch

Wormseed

Chenopodium ambrosioides var. anthelminticum

FAMILY: Chenopodiaceae

SYNONYMS: C. anthelminticum, American wormseed, chenopodium, Californian spearmint, Jesuit’s tea, Mexican tea, herb sancti mariae, Baltimore (oil).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A hairy, coarse, perennial wayside herb up to 1 metre high with stout, erect stem, oblong-lanceolate leaves and numerous greenish-yellow flowers, the same colour as the leaves.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to South America; cultivated mainly in the east and south east USA, also India, Hungary and the USSR.

OTHER SPECIES: The parent plant, C. ambrosioides, is also used to produce an essential oil with similar properties. There are many different members in the Chenopodium or Goosefoot family, such as Good King Henry (C. bonus-henricus), a European variety whose leaves were eaten like spinach. See also Botanical Classification section.

The so-called ‘Russian wormseed oil’ or wormseed Levant (Artemisia cina) is quite different from the American type, although it is also used as an anthelmintic and is extremely toxic, containing mainly cineol.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: ‘Used for many years by the local Indians as an effective anthelmintic ... several Indian tribes of the eastern part of the United States use the whole of the herb decocted to help ease painful menstruation and other female complaints.’. Apart from being used to expel roundworm, hookworm and dwarf tapeworm, the herb has also been employed for asthma, catarrh and other chest complaints, and to treat nervous disease. In China it is used to treat articular rheumatism. Causes dizziness and vomiting in concentration.

ACTIONS: Anthelmintic, antirheumatic, antispasmodic, expectorant, hypotensive.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the whole herb, especially the fruit or seeds.

CHARACTERISTICS: A colourless or pale yellow oil with a sweet-woody, camphoraceous, heavy and nauseating odour.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Ascaridole (60–80 per cent), cymene, limonene, terpinene, myrcene.

SAFETY DATA: A very toxic oil – cases of fatal poisoning have been reported even in low doses. Effects can be cumulative. Due to high ascaridole content, the oil may explode when heated or treated with acids.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE None. ‘Should not be used in therapy either internally or externally. One of the most toxic essential oils.’.

OTHER USES: In pharmaceuticals its anthelmintic applications have been replaced by synthetics. Used as a fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. Its use is not permitted in foods.... wormseed

Rosemary

Rosmarinus officinalis

FAMILY: Lamiaceae (Labiatae)

SYNONYMS: R. coronarium, compass plant, incensier.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A shrubby evergreen bush up to 2 metres high with silvery green, needle-shaped leaves and pale blue flowers. The whole plant is strongly aromatic.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Mediterranean region, now cultivated worldwide in California, Russia, Middle East, England, France, Spain, Portugal, Yugoslavia, Morocco, China, etc. The main oil-producing countries are France, Spain and Tunisia.

OTHER SPECIES: R. officinalis is the type used for oil production but it is generally not specified, although there are many different cultivars, for example pine-scented rosemary (R. officinalis var. angustifolius). See also Botanical Classification.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: One of the earliest plants to be used for food, medicine and magic, being regarded as sacred in many civilizations. Sprigs of rosemary were burnt at shrines in ancient Greece, fumigations were used in the Middle Ages to drive away evil spirits, and to protect against plague and infectious illness.

It has been used for a wide range of complaints including respiratory and circulatory disorders, liver congestion, digestive and nervous complaints, muscular and rheumatic pain, skin and hair problems. It is current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for ‘depressive states with general debility and indications of cardiovascular weakness’..

ACTIONS: Analgesic, antimicrobial, antioxidant, antirheumatic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, aphrodisiac, astringent, carminative, cephalic, cholagogue, choleretic, cicatrisant, cordial, cytophylactic, diaphoretic, digestive, diuretic, emmenagogue, fungicidal, hepatic, hypertensive, nervine, parasiticide, restorative, rubefacient, stimulant (circulatory, adrenal cortex, hepatobiliary), stomachic, sudorific, tonic (nervous, general), vulnerary.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation of the fresh flowering tops or (in Spain) the whole plant (poorer quality).

CHARACTERISTICS: A colourless or pale yellow mobile liquid with a strong, fresh, minty herbaceous scent and a woody-balsamic undertone. Poor quality oils have a strong camphoraceous note. It blends well with olibanum, lavender, lavandin, citronella, oregano, thyme, pine, basil, peppermint, labdanum, elemi, cedarwood, petitgrain, cinnamon and other spice oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly pinenes, camphene, limonene, cineol, borneol with camphor, linalol, terpineol, octanone, bornyl acetate, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant (in dilution only), non-sensitizing. Avoid during pregnancy. Not to be used by epileptics.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Acne, dandruff, dermatitis, eczema, greasy hair, insect repellent, promotes hair growth, regulates seborrhoea, scabies, stimulates scalp, lice, varicose veins.

Circulation muscles and joints: Arteriosclerosis, fluid retention, gout, muscular pain, palpitations, poor circulation, rheumatism.

Respiratory system: Asthma, bronchitis, whooping cough.

Digestive system: Colitis, dyspepsia, flatulence, hepatic disorders, hypercholesterolaemia, jaundice.

Genito-urinary system: Dysmenorrhoea, leucorrhoea.

Immune system: Colds, ’flu, infections.

Nervous system: Debility, headaches, hypotension, neuralgia, mental fatigue, nervous exhaustion and stress-related disorders.

OTHER USES: Extensively used in soaps, detergents, cosmetics, household sprays and perfumes, especially colognes. Also used as a masking agent. Extensively employed in most major food categories, especially meat products, as well as alcoholic and soft drinks. Serves as a source of natural anti-oxidants.... rosemary

Sage, Clary

Salvia sclarea

FAMILY: Lamiaceae (Labiatae)

SYNONYMS: Clary, clary wort, muscatel sage, clear eye, see bright, common clary, clarry, eye bright.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: Stout biennial or perennial herb up to 1 metre high with large, hairy leaves, green with a hint of purple, and small blue flowers.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to southern Europe; cultivated worldwide especially in the Mediterranean region, Russia, the USA, England, Morocco and central Europe. The French, Moroccan and English clary are considered of superior quality for perfumery work.

OTHER SPECIES: Closely related to the garden sage (S. officinalis) and the Spanish sage (S. lavendulaefolia), which are both used to produce essential oils. Other types of sage include meadow clary (S. pratensis) and vervain sage (S. verbenaca). Clary sage should not be confused with the common wayside herb eyebright (Euphrasia).

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: This herb, highly esteemed in the Middle Ages, has now largely fallen out of use. It was used for digestive disorders, kidney disease, uterine and menstrual complaints, for cleansing ulcers and as a general nerve tonic. The mucilage from the seeds was used for treating tumours and for removing dust particles from the eyes.

Like garden sage, it cools inflammation and is especially useful for throat and respiratory infections.

ACTIONS: Anticonvulsive, antidepressant, antiphlogistic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, aphrodisiac, astringent, bactericidal, carminative, cicatrisant, deodorant, digestive, emmenagogue, hypotensive, nervine, regulator (of seborrhoea), sedative, stomachic, tonic, uterine.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the flowering tops and leaves. (A concrete and absolute are also produced by solvent extraction in small quantities.)

CHARACTERISTICS: A colourless or pale yellowy-green liquid with a sweet, nutty herbaceous scent. It blends well with juniper, lavender, coriander, cardamon, geranium, sandalwood, cedarwood, pine, labdanum, jasmine, frankincense, bergamot and other citrus oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Linalyl acetate (up to 75 per cent), linalol, pinene, myrcene and phellandrene, among others. Constituents vary according to geographical origin – there are several different chemotypes.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, nonsensitizing. Avoid during pregnancy. Do not use clary sage oil while drinking alcohol since it can induce a narcotic effect and exaggerate drunkenness. Clary sage is generally used in preference to the garden sage in aromatherapy due to its lower toxicity level.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Acne, boils, dandruff, hair loss, inflamed conditions, oily skin and hair, ophthalmia, ulcers, wrinkles.

Circulation muscles and joints: High blood pressure, muscular aches and pains.

Respiratory system: Asthma, throat infections, whooping cough.

Digestive system: Colic, cramp, dyspepsia, flatulence.

Genito-urinary system: Amenorrhoea, labour pain, dysmenorrhoea, leucorrhoea.

Nervous system: Depression, frigidity, impotence, migraine, nervous tension and stress-related disorders.

OTHER USES: The oil and absolute are used as fragrance components and fixatives in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. The oil is used extensively by the food and drink industry, especially in the production of wines with a muscatel flavour.... sage, clary

Sandalwood

Santalum album

FAMILY: Santalaceae

SYNONYMS: White sandalwood, yellow sandalwood, East Indian sandalwood, sandalwood Mysore, sanders-wood, santal (oil), white saunders (oil), yellow saunders (oil).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A small, evergreen, parasitic tree up to 9 metres high with brown-grey trunk and many smooth, slender branches. It has leathery leaves and small pinky-purple flowers. The tree must be over thirty years old before it is ready for the production of sandalwood oil.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to tropical Asia, especially India, Sri Lanka, Malaysia, Indonesia and Taiwan. India is the main essential oil producer; the region of Mysore exports the highest quality oil, although some oil is distilled in Europe and the USA.

OTHER SPECIES: The Australian sandalwood (S. spicatum or Eucarya spicata) produces a very similar oil, but with a dry-bitter top note. The so-called West Indian sandalwood or amyris (Amyris balsamifera) is a poor substitute and bears no botanical relation to the East Indian sandalwood.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: One of the oldest known perfume materials, with at least 4000 years of uninterrupted use. It is used as a traditional incense, as a cosmetic, perfume and embalming material all over the East. It is also a popular building material, especially for temples.

In Chinese medicine it is used to treat stomach ache, vomiting, gonorrhoea, choleraic difficulties and skin complaints. In the Ayurvedic tradition it is used mainly for urinary and respiratory infections, for acute and chronic diarrhoea. In India it is often combined with rose in the famous scent aytar.

ACTIONS: Antidepressant, antiphlogistic, antiseptic (urinary and pulmonary), antispasmodic, aphrodisiac, astringent, bactericidal, carminative; cicatrisant, diuretic, expectorant, fungicidal, insecticidal, sedative, tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by water or steam distillation from the roots and heartwood, powdered and dried.

CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow, greenish or brownish viscous liquid with a deep, soft, sweet-woody balsamic scent of excellent tenacity. It blends well with rose, violet, tuberose, clove, lavender, black pepper, bergamot, rosewood, geranium, labdanum, oakmoss, benzoin, vetiver, patchouli, mimosa, cassie, costus, myrrh and jasmine.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: About 90 per cent santalols, 6 per cent sesquiterpene hydrocarbons: santene, teresantol, borneol, santalone, tri-cyclo-ekasantalal, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, nonsensitizing.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Acne, dry, cracked and chapped skin, aftershave (barber’s rash), greasy skin, moisturizer.

Respiratory system: Bronchitis, catarrh, coughs (dry, persistent), laryngitis, sore throat.

Digestive system: Diarrhoea, nausea.

Genito-urinary system: Cystitis.

Nervous system: Depression, insomnia, nervous tension and stress-related complaints.

OTHER USES: Used to be used as a pharmaceutical disinfectant, now largely abandoned. Extensively employed as a fragrance component and fixative in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes – especially oriental, woody, aftershaves, chypres, etc. Extensively used in the production of incense. Employed as a flavour ingredient in most major food categories, including soft and alcoholic drinks.... sandalwood

Ylang Ylang

Cananga odorata var. genuina

FAMILY: Annonaceae

SYNONYMS: Unona odorantissimum, flower of flowers.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall tropical tree up to 20 metres high with large, tender, fragrant flowers, which can be pink, mauve or yellow. The yellow flowers are considered best for the extraction of essential oil.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to tropical Asia, especially Indonesia and the Philippines. Major oil producers are Madagascar, Reunion and the Comoro Islands.

OTHER SPECIES: Very closely related to cananga (C. odoratum var. macrophylla), although the oil produced from the ylang ylang is considered of superior quality for perfumery work, having a more refined quality.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: In Indonesia, the flowers are spread on the beds of newly married couples on their wedding night. In the Molucca Islands, an ointment is made from ylang ylang and cucuma flowers in a coconut oil base for cosmetic and hair care, skin diseases, to prevent fever (including malaria) and fight infections.

In the Victorian age, the oil was used in the popular hair treatment Macassar oil, due to its stimulating effect on the scalp, encouraging hair growth. The oil was also used to soothe insect bites, and is thought to have a regulating effect on cardiac and respiratory rhythm.

ACTIONS: Aphrodisiac, antidepressant, anti infectious, antiseborrhoeic, antiseptic, euphoric, hypotensive, nervine, regulator, sedative (nervous), stimulant (circulatory), tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by water or steam distillation from the freshly picked flowers. The first distillate (about 40 per cent) is called ylang ylang extra, which is the top grade. There are then three further successive distillates, called Grades 1, 2 and 3. A ‘complete’ oil is also produced which represents the total or ‘unfractionated’ oil, but this is sometimes constructed by blending ylang ylang 1 and 2 together, which are the two least popular grades. (An absolute and concrete are also produced by solvent extraction for their long-lasting floral-balsamic effect.)

CHARACTERISTICS: Ylang ylang extra is a pale yellow, oily liquid with an intensely sweet, soft, floral-balsamic, slightly spicy scent – a good oil has a creamy rich topnote. A very intriguing perfume oil in its own right, it also blends well with rosewood, jasmine, vetiver, opopanax, bergamot, mimosa, cassie, Peru balsam, rose, tuberose, costus and others. It is an excellent fixative. The other grades lack the depth and richness of the ylang ylang extra.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Methyl benzoate, methyl salicylate, methyl paracretol, benzyl acetate, eugenol, geraniol, linalol and terpenes: pinene, cadinene, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, a few cases of sensitization reported. Use in moderation, since its heady scent can cause headaches or nausea.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Acne, hair growth, hair rinse, insect bites, irritated and oily skin, general skin care.

Circulation muscles and joints: High blood pressure, hyperpnoea (abnormally fast breathing), tachycardia, palpitations.

Nervous system: Depression, frigidity, impotence, insomnia, nervous tension and stress-related disorders – ‘The writer, working with odorous materials for more than twenty years, long ago noticed that ... ylang ylang soothes and inhibits anger born of frustration.’.

OTHER USES: Extensively used as a fragrance component and fixative in soaps, cosmetics and perfumes, especially oriental and floral types; ylang ylang extra tends to be used in high-class perfumes, ylang ylang 3 in soaps, detergents, etc. Used as a flavour ingredient, mainly in alcoholic and soft drinks, fruit flavours and desserts.... ylang ylang




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