(fixing agent) n. a chemical agent, e.g. alcohol or osmium tetroxide, used for the preservation and hardening of tissues for microscopical study. See fixation.
FAMILY: Apiaceae (Umbelliferae)
SYNONYMS: Asafoetida, gum asafetida, devil’s dung, food of the gods, giant fennel.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A large branching perennial herb up to 3 metres high, with a thick fleshy root system and pale yellow-green flowers.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to Afghanistan, Iran and other regions of south west Asia.
OTHER SPECIES: There are several other species of Ferula which yield the oleoresin known as ‘asafetida’, e.g. Tibetan asafetida, which is also used to a lesser extent in commerce.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: In Chinese medicine it has been used since the seventh century as a nerve stimulant in treating neurasthenia. It is also widely used in traditional Indian medicine, where it is believed to stimulate the brain. In general, it has the reputation for treating various ailments including asthma, bronchitis, convulsions, coughs, constipation, flatulence and hysteria. The foliage of the plant is used as a local vegetable. It is current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for intestinal flatulent colic.
ACTIONS: Antispasmodic, carminative, expectorant, hypotensive, stimulant. Animals are repelled by its odour.
EXTRACTION: The oleoresin is obtained by making incisions into the root and above ground parts of the plant. The milky juice is left to leak out and harden into dark reddish lumps, before being scraped off and collected. The essential oil is then obtained from the resin by steam distillation. An absolute, resinoid and tincture are also produced.
CHARACTERISTICS: A yellowy-orange oil with a bitter acrid taste and a strong, tenacious odour resembling garlic. However, beneath this odour there is a sweet, balsamic note.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Disulphides, notably 2-butyl propenyl disulphide with monoterpenes, free ferulic acid, valeric, traces of vanillin, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Available information indicates the oil to be relatively non-toxic and non-irritant. However, it has the reputation for being the most adulterated ‘drug’ on the market. Before being sold, the oleoresin is often mixed with red clay or similar substitutes.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Respiratory System: ‘There is evidence that the volatile oil is expelled through the lungs, therefore it is excellent for asthma, bronchitis, whooping cough etc.’3
Nervous system: Fatigue, nervous exhaustion and stress-related conditions.
OTHER USES: Now rarely used in pharmaceutical preparations; formerly used as a local stimulant for the mucous membranes. Occasionally used as a fixative and fragrance component in perfumes, especially rose bases and heavy oriental types. Employed in a wide variety of food categories, mainly condiments and sauces.... asafetida
FAMILY: Pinaceae
SYNONYMS: A. balsamifera, Pinus balsamea, balsam fir, balsam tree, American silver fir, balm of Gilead fir, Canada turpentine (oil).
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall, graceful evergreen tree up to 20 metres high, with a tapering trunk and numerous branches giving the tree an overall shape of a perfect cone. It forms blisters of oleoresin (the so-called ‘balsam’) on the trunk and branches, produced from special vesicles beneath the bark. The tree does not produce a ‘true’ balsam, since it does not contain benzoic or cinnamic acid in its esters; it is really an oleoresin, being a mixture of resin and essential oil.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to North America, particularly Quebec, Nova Scotia and Maine.
OTHER SPECIES: The hemlock spruce (Tsuga canadensis) also yields an exudation sold under the name of ‘Canada balsam’. There are also many other species of fir which produce oils from their needles – see entry on silver fir and Botanical Classification section. NB: Not to be confused with the genuine balsam of Gilead (Commiphora opabalsamum), of ancient repute.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The oleoresin is used extensively by the American Indians for ritual purposes and as an external treatment for burns, sores, cuts and to relieve heart and chest pains. It is also used internally for coughs.
ACTIONS: Antiseptic (genito-urinary, pulmonary), antitussive, astringent, cicatrisant, diuretic, expectorant, purgative, regulatory, sedative (nerve), tonic, vulnerary.
EXTRACTION: 1. The oleoresin is collected by punturing vesicles in the bark. 2. An essential oil is produced by steam distillation from the oleoresin, known as Canada balsam or Canada turpentine. (An essential oil is also produced by steam distillation from the leaf or needles, known as fir needle oil.)
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. The oleoresin is a thick pale yellow or green honeylike mass which dries to crystal clear varnish, with a fresh sweet balsamic, almost fruity odour. 2. A colourless mobile liquid with a sweet, soft-balsamic, pinelike scent. It blends well with pine, cedarwood, cypress, sandalwood, juniper, benzoin and other balsams.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Consists almost entirely of monoterpenes, pinene, phellandrene, esters and alcohols.
SAFETY DATA: Generally non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing. ‘In large doses it is purgative and may cause nausea.’4
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin Care: Burns, cuts, haemorrhoids, wounds.
Respiratory System: Asthma, bronchitis, catarrh, chronic coughs, sore throat.
Genito-Urinary System: Cystitis, genito-urinary infections.
Nervous System: Depression, nervous tension, stress-related conditions – described as ‘appeasing, sedative, elevating, grounding, opening’.5
OTHER USES: The oil from the oleoresin is used in certain ointments and creams as an antiseptic and treatment for haemorrhoids. Used in dentistry as an ingredient in root canal sealers. Also used as a fixative or fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfurmes. There is some low-level use in food products, alcoholic and soft drinks. The oleoresin is used as a medium in microscopy and as a cement in glassware.... balsam, canadian
FAMILY: Fabaceae (Leguminosae)
SYNONYMS: Copahu balsam, copaiba, copaiva, Jesuit’s balsam, Maracaibo balsam, para balsam.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: Wild-growing tropical tree up to 18 metres high, with thick foliage and many branches. The natural oleoresin occurs as a physiological product from various Copaifera species. Not a ‘true’ balsam.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to north east and central South America. Mainly produced in Brazil; also Venezuela, Guyana, Surinam and Colombia.
OTHER SPECIES: Several Copaifera speices yield an oleoresin: the Venezuelan type ‘Maracaibo balsam’ has a low oil content, the Brazilian type ‘para balsam’ has a high oil content. See also Botanical Classification section.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Used for centuries in Europe in the treatment of chronic cystitis and bronchitis; also for treating piles, chronic diarrhoea and intestinal problems.
ACTIONS: Batericidal, balsamic, disinfectant, diuretic, expectorant, stimulant.
EXTRACTION: 1. The crude balsam is collected by drilling holes into the tree trunks; it is one of the most plentiful naturally occurring perfume materials. 2. An essential oil is obtained by dry distillation from the crude balsam. It is mainly the ‘para balsams’ with a high oil content (60–80 per cent), which are used for distillation.
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. The crude balsam is a viscous, yellowy-brown or greenish-grey liquid which hardens upon exposure to air with a mild, woody, slightly spicy odour. It blends well with styrax, amyris, lavandin, cedarwood, lavender, oakmoss, woods and spices. 2. The oil is a pale yellow or greenish mobile liquid with a mild, sweet, balsamic-peppery odour. It blends well with cananga, ylang ylang, vanilla, jasmine, violet and other florals.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly caryophyllene.
SAFETY DATA: Relatively non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization. Large doses cause vomiting and diarrhoea.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE:
DIGESTIVE SYSTEM: Intestinal infections, piles.
Respiratory System: Bronchitis, chills, colds, coughs, etc.
Genito-Rinary System: Cystitis.
Nervous System: Stress-related conditons.
OTHER USES: The oleoresin is used in pharmaceutical products especially cough medicines and iuretics. The oil and crude balsam are extensively used as a fixative and fragrance component in all types of perfumes, soaps, cosmetics and detergents. The crude is also used in porcelain painting.
BALSAM, PERU... balsam, copaiba
FAMILY: Fabaceae (Leguminosae)
SYNONYMS: Toluifera balsamum, Balsamum tolutanum, B. americanum, Myrospermum toluiferum, Thomas balsam, resin Tolu, opobalsam.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall, graceful tropical tree, similar in appearance to the Peru balsam tree. The balsam is a pathological product, obtained by making V-shaped incisions into the bark and sap wood, often after the trunk has been beaten and scorched. It is a ‘true’ balsam.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to South America, mainly Venezuela, Colombia and Cuba; also cultivated in the West Indies.
OTHER SPECIES: There are many types of South American balsam-yielding trees, such as the Peru balsam – see entry.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The balsam works primarily on the respiratory mucous membranes, and is good for chronic catarrh and non-inflammatory chest complaints, laryngitis and croup. It is still used as a flavour and mild expectorant in cough syrups and lozenges. As an ingredient in compound benzoin tincture and similar formulations, it is helpful in the treatment of cracked nipples, lips, cuts, bedsores, etc.
ACTIONS: Antitussive, antiseptic, balsamic, expectorant, stimulant.
EXTRACTION: The crude balsam is collected from the trees. It appears first in liquid form, then hardens and solidifies into an orange-brown brittle mass. An ‘essential oil’ is obtained from the crude by 1. steam distillation, or 2. dry distillation. (A resinoid and absolute are also produced for use primarily as fixatives.)
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. A pale yellow-brown liquid with a sweet-floral scent and peppery undertone. 2. An amber-coloured liquid with a rich balsamic-floral scent, which slowly solidfies on cooling into a crystalline mass. Tolu balsam blends well with mimosa, ylang ylang, sandalwood, labdanum, neroli, patchouli, cedarwood and oriental, spicy and floral bases.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: The balsam contains approx. 80 per cent resin, 20 per cent oil, with cinnamic and benzoic acids, small amounts of terpenes, and traces of eugenol and vanillin.
SAFETY DATA: Available information indicates it to be non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization, see Peru Balsam.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
SKIN CARE: Dry, chapped and cracked skin, eczema, rashes, scabies, sores, wounds.
RESPIRATORY SYSTEM: Bronchitis, catarrh, coughs, croup, laryngitis. ‘It may be used as an inhalant by putting about a teaspoon into a steam bath.’6
OTHER USES: As a fixative and fragrance component in colognes, cosmetics and perfumes (especially the dry distilled type). Some use in pharmaceutical preparations, e.g. cough syrups. Low levels used in many major food products, especially baked goods.... balsam, tolu
FAMILY: Fabaceae (Leguminosae)
SYNONYMS: Cabureicica, ‘Baume de Perou brun’.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A graceful, tall tropical tree, 12–15 metres high, with a very hard wood, extremely resistant to moisture and mould growth. It yields a balsam when the trunk is damaged, like many other South American trees.
DISTRIBUTION: Found in Brazil, Paraguay, Chile and north Argentina.
OTHER SPECIES: Many varieties of Myrocarpus yield cabreuva oil, such as M. frondosus. It is also botanically related to the trees which yield copaiba, Peru and Tolu balsam.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The wood is highly appreciated for carving and furniture making. It is used by the natives to heal wounds, ulcers and obviate scars. It was once listed in old European pharmocopoeias for its antiseptic qualities.
ACTIONS: Antiseptic, balsamic, cicatrisant.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from wood chippings (waste from the timber mills).
CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow, viscous liquid with a sweet, woody-floral scent, very delicate but having great tenacity. It blends well with rose, cassie, mimosa, cedarwood, rich woody and oriental bases.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly nerolidol (80 per cent approx.), farnesol, bisabolol, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin Care: Cuts, scars, wounds.
Respiratory System: Chills, coughs.
Immune System: Colds.
OTHER USES: Fragrance component and fixative in soaps and high-class perfumes, especially floral, woody or oriental types. Previously used for the isolation of nerolidol, now produced synthetically.... cabreuva
FAMILY: Pinaceae
SYNONYMS: Atlantic cedar, Atlas cedar, African cedar, Moroccan cedarwood (oil), libanol (oil).
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: Pyramid-shaped evergreen tree with a majestic stature, up to 40 metres high. The wood itself is hard and strongly aromatic, due to the high percentage of essential oil which it contains.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Atlas mountains of Algeria; the oil is mainly produced in Morocco.
OTHER SPECIES: Believed to have originated from the famous Lebanon cedars (C. libani), which grow wild in Lebanon and on the island of Cyprus. It is also a close botanical relation to the Himalayan deodar cedarwood (C. deodora), which produces a very similar essential oil. (NB the oil is quite different from the Texas or Virginia cedarwood.)
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The oil from the Lebanon cedar was possibly the first to be extracted, it was used by the ancient Egyptians for embalming purposes, cosmetics and perfumery. The oil was one of the ingredients of ‘mithridat’, a renowned poison antidote that was used for centuries. The Lebanon cedar was prized as a building wood; its odour repelled ants, moths and other harmful insects, as does the oil from the Atlas cedar.
Traditionally, the oil was used in the East for bronchial and urinary tract infections, as a preservative and as an incense. It is still used as a temple incense by the Tibetans, and is employed in their traditional medicine.
ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antiputrescent, antiseborrheic, aphrodisiac, astringent, diuretic, expectorant, fungicidal, mucolytic, sedative (nervous), stimulant (circulatory), tonic.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the wood, stumps and sawdust. A resinoid and absolute are also produced in small quantities.
CHARACTERISTICS: A yellow, orange or deep amber viscous oil with a warm, camphoraceous top note and sweet tenacious, woody-balsamic undertone. It blends well with rosewood, bergamot, boronia, cypress, calamus, cassie, costus, jasmine, juniper, neroli, mimosa, labdanum, olibanum, clary sage, vetiver, rosemary, ylang ylang, oriental and floral bases.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Atlantone, caryophyllene, cedrol, cadinene, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing. Best avoided during pregnancy.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin Care: Acne, dandruff, dermatitis, eczema, fungal infections, greasy skin, hair loss, skin eruptions, ulcers.
Circulation Muscles And Joints: Arthritis, rheumatism.
Respiratory System: Bronchitis, catarrh, congestion, coughs.
Genito-Urinary System: Cystitis, leucorrhoea, pruritis.
Nervous System: Nervous tension and stress-related conditions.
OTHER USES: Fragrance component and fixative in cosmetics and household products, soaps, detergents, etc, as well as in perfumes, especially men’s fragrances.... cedarwood, atlas
FAMILY: Styracaceae
SYNONYMS: Gum benzoin, gum benjamin, styrax benzoin.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A large tropical tree up to 20 metres high with pale green citrus-like leaves, whitish underneath, bearing hard-shelled flattish fruit about the size of a nutmeg. The benzoin is a pathological product, formed when the trunk is cut; the tree exudes a balsamic resin which hardens upon exposure, to air and sunlight.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to tropical Asia; the two main regions of production are Sumatra, Java and Malaysia for ‘Sumatra’ benzoin, and Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia, China and Thailand for ‘Siam’ benzoin.
OTHER SPECIES: There are many different varieties within the Styrax family which produce benzoin, but these are generally classified under either Sumatra benzoin (S. paralleloneurus) or Siam benzoin (S. tonkinensis) – see also Botanical Classification section.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: It has been used for thousands of years in the east as a medicine and incense; the fumigations were believed to drive away evil spirits. It was used by the Chinese herbalists for its heating and drying qualities, as a good urinary antiseptic and as an aid to digestion.
In the west, it is best known in the form of compound tincture of benzoin or Friars Balsam, used for respiratory complaints. Externally it is used for cuts and irritable skin conditions; internally it is used as a carminative for indigestion, etc. It also acts as a preservative of fats.
ACTIONS: Anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, antiseptic, astringent, carminative, cordial, deodorant, diuretic, expectorant, sedative, styptic, vulnerary.
EXTRACTION: The crude benzoin is collected from the trees directly. Benzoin resinoid, or ‘resin absolute’, is prepared from the crude using solvents, for example benzene and alcohol, which are then removed. Commercial benzoin is usually sold dissolved in ethyl glycol or a similar solvent. A ‘true’ absolute is also produced in small quantities.
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. Sumatra crude benzoin occurs as greyish-brown brittle lumps with reddish streaks, with a styrax-like odour. There are several different qualities available; the so-called ‘almond’ grade is considered superior. 2. Siam benzoin comes in pebble or tear-shaped orange-brown pieces, with a sweet-balsamic vanilla-like scent, this type having a more refined odour than the Sumatra type.
Benzoin resinoid is produced from both the Siam and Sumatra types, or a mix of the two. It is an orange-brown viscous mass with an intensely rich sweet-balsamic odour. It blends well with sandalwood, rose, jasmine, copaiba balsam, frankincense, myrrh, cypress, juniper, lemon, coriander and other spice oils.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: 1. Sumatra Benzoin: mainly coniferyl cinnamate and sumaresinolic acid, with benzoic acid, cinnamic acid, and traces of styrene, vanillin and benzaldehyde. 2. Siam benzoin: mainly coniferyl benzoate (65–75 per cent), with benzoic acid, vanillin, siaresinolic acid and cinnamyl benzoate.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization. Compound benzoin tincture is ‘regarded as moderately toxic, due probably to occasional contact dermatitis developed in some individuals … which contains, in addition to benzoin, aloe, storax, Tolu balsam and others.’.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin Care: Cuts, chapped skin, inflamed and irritated conditions.
Circulation, Muscles And Joints: Arthritis, gout, poor circulation, rheumatism.
Respiratory System: Asthma, bronchitis, chills, colic, coughs, laryngitis.
Immune System: ’Flu.
Nervous System: Nervous tension and stress-related complaints. It warms and tones the heart and circulation, both physically and metaphorically: ‘This essence creates a kind of euphoria; it interposes a padded zone between us and events.’.
OTHER USES: Compound benzoin tincture is used in pharmaceuticals and in dentistry to treat gum inflammation. The resinoid and absolute are used extensively as fixatives and fragrance components in soaps, cosmetics, toiletries and perfumes, especially Siam benzoin. Both types are used in most food categories, including alcoholic and soft drinks.... benzoin
FAMILY: Asteraceae (Compositae)
SYNONYMS: S. lappa, Aucklandia costus, Aplotaxis lappa, A. auriculata.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A large, erect, perennial plant up to 2 metres high with a thick tapering root and numerous almost black flowers.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to northern India; cultivated in India and south west China. The oil is mainly produced in India.
OTHER SPECIES: Closely related to elecampane (lnula helenium), whose roots are also used to produce an essential oil.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The root has been used for millennia in India and China for digestive complaints, respiratory conditions, as a stimulant and for infection including typhoid and cholera. It is also used as an incense.
ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antispasmodic, antiviral, bactericidal, carminative, digestive, expectorant, febrifuge, hypotensive, stimulant, stomachic, tonic.
EXTRACTION: The dried roots are macerated in warm water, then subjected to steam distillation followed by solvent extraction of the distilled water. (A concrete and absolute are also produced in small quantities.)
CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow or brownish viscous liquid of soft, woody-musty, extremely tenacious odour. It blends well with patchouli, opopanax, ylang ylang, oriental and floral fragrances.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly sesquiterpene lactones, including dihydrocostus lactone and costunolide (together up to 50 per cent), other sesquiterpenes such as costols, caryophyllene and selinene, as well as costic and oleic acids, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization in some individuals. Subject to frequent adulteration.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin Care: Perfume.
Respiratory System: Asthma, bronchitis, spasmodic cough.
Digestive System: Flatulence, indigestion, spasm.
Nervous system: Debility, nervous exhaustion and stress-related conditions.
OTHER USES: Fixative and fragrance component in cosmetics and perfumes. Used as a flavour ingredient by the food industry, especially in confectionery, alcoholic and soft drinks.... costus
FAMILY: Rutaceae
SYNONYM: Citrus aurantium subsp. bergamia.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A small tree, about 4.5 metres high with smooth oval leaves, bearing small round fruit which ripen from green to yellow, much like a miniature orange in appearance.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to tropical Asia. Extensively cultivated in Calabria in southern Italy and also grown commercially on the Ivory Coast.
OTHER SPECIES: Not to be confused with the herb bergamot or bee balm (Monarda didyma).
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Named after the Italian city of Bergamo in Lombardy, where the oil was first sold. The oil has been used in Italian folk medicine for many years, primarily for fever (including malaria) and worms; it does not feature in the folk tradition of any other countries. However, due to recent research in Italy, bergamot oil is now known to have a wide spectrum of applications, being particularly useful for mouth, skin, respiratory and urinary tract infections.
ACTIONS: Analgesic, anthelmintic, antidepressant, antiseptic (pulmonary, genito-urinary), antispasmodic, antitoxic, carminative, digestive, diuretic, deodorant, febrifuge, laxative, parasiticide, rubefacient, stimulant, stomachic, tonic, vermifuge, vulnerary.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by cold expression of the peel of the nearly ripe fruit. (A rectified or terpeneless oil is produced by vacuum distillation or solvent extraction.)
CHARACTERISTICS: A light greenish-yellow liquid with a fresh sweet-fruity, slightly spicy-balsamic undertone. On ageing it turns a brownish-olive colour. It blends well with lavender, neroli, jasmine, cypress, geranium, lemon, chamomile, juniper, coriander and violet.
PRINCIPAL CONSTTTUENTS Known to have about 300 compounds present in the expressed oil: mainly linalyl acetate (30–60 per cent), linalol (11–22 per cent) and other alcohols, sesquiterpenes, terpenes, alkanes and furocoumarins (including bergapten, 0.30–0.39 per cent).
SAFETY DATA: Certain furocoumarins, notably bergapten, have been found to be phototoxic on human skin; that is, they cause sensitization and skin pigmentation when exposed to direct sunlight (in concentration and in dilution even after some time!). Extreme care must be taken when using the oil in dermal applications – otherwise a rectified or ‘bergapten-free’ oil should be substituted. Available information indicates it to be otherwise non-toxic and relatively non-irritant.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin Care: Acne, boils, cold sores, eczema, insect repellent and insect bites, oily complexion, psoriasis, scabies, spots, varicose ulcers, wounds.
Respiratory System: Halitosis, mouth infections, sore throat, tonsillitis.
Digestive System: Flatulence, loss of appetite.
Genito-URINARY SYSTEM: Cystitis, leucorrhoea, pruritis, thrush.
Immune System: Colds, fever, ’flu, infectious diseases.
Nervous System: Anxiety, depression and stress-related conditions, having a refreshing and uplifting quality.
OTHER USES: Extensively used as a fragrance and, to a degree, a fixative in cosmetics, toiletries, suntan lotions and perfumes – it is a classic ingredient of eau-de-cologne. Widely used in most major food categories and beverages, notably Earl Grey tea.... bergamot
FAMILY: Asteraceae (Compositae)
SYNONYMS: Trilisa odoratissima, Liatris odoratissima, Frasera speciosa, hound’s tongue, deer’s tongue, Carolina vanilla, vanilla leaf, wild vanilla, vanilla trilisa, whart’s tongue, liatrix (oleoresin or absolute).
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A herbaceous perennial plant distinguished by a naked receptacle and feathery pappus, with large, fleshy, dark green leaves, clasped at the base. When fresh, the leaves have little odour but when dried they acquire a vanilla-like odour, largely due to the coumarin that can be seen in crystals on the upper sides of the leaves.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to eastern USA; gathered on the savannah land between North Carolina and Florida.
OTHER SPECIES: There are several species of deertongue native to America, for example blazing star or prairie pine (Liatris squarrosa), and gayfeather (L. spicata). Not to be confused with the common vanilla (Vanilla planifolia) or with the European hound’s tongue (Cynoglossum officinale), all of which have been used in herbal medicine.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The roots have been used for their diuretic effects, and applied locally for sore throats and gonorrhoea. It has also been used as a tonic in treating malaria. In folklore the plant is associated with contraception and sterility in women.
ACTIONS: Antiseptic, demulcent, diaphoretic, diuretic, febrifuge, stimulant, tonic.
EXTRACTION: Oleoresin by solvent extraction from the dried leaves.
CHARACTERISTICS: A dark green, heavy, viscous liquid with a rich, herbaceous, new-mown hay scent. It blends well with oakmoss, labdanum, lavandin, frankincense, clove, patchouli and oriental-type fragrances.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly coumarin (1.6 per cent), with dihydrotoumarin and terpenes, aldehydes and ketones.
SAFETY DATA: ‘Coumarin has toxic properties including liver injury and haemorrhages.’. (There is also the possibility of dermal irritation and phototoxicity due to the lactones present.)
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE None.
OTHER USES: The oleoresin is used as a fixative and fragrance component in soaps, detergents and perfumery work. Used for flavouring tobacco and; also employed for the isolation of coumarin.... deertongue
FAMILY: Asteraceae (Compositae)
SYNONYMS: M. chamomilla, camomile, blue chamomile, matricaria, Hungarian chamomile, sweet false chamomile, single chamomile, chamomile blue (oil).
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An annual, strongly aromatic herb, up to 60 cms tall with a hairless, erect, branching stem. It has delicate feathery leaves and simple daisy-like white flowers on single stems. In appearance it is very similar to the corn chamomile (Anthemis arvensis) but can be distinguished from it because the latter is scentless.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to Europe and north and west Asia; naturalized in North America and Australia. It is cultivated extensively, especially in Hungary and eastern Europe, where the oil is produced. It is no longer grown in Germany, despite the herbal name.
OTHER SPECIES: There are many varieties of chamomile, such as the pineapple weed (Chamaemelium suaveolens) and the Roman chamomile (C. nobile), both of which are used to produce an essential oil.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: This herb has a long-standing medicinal tradition, especially in Europe for ‘all states of tension and the visceral symptoms that can arise therefrom, such as nervous dyspepsia and nervous bowel, tension headaches, and sleeplessness; especially useful for all children’s conditions, calming without depressing …’.
An excellent skin care remedy, it has many of the same qualities as Roman chamomile, except that its anti-inflammatory properties are greater due to the higher percentage of azulene.
ACTIONS: Analgesic, anti-allergenic, anti inflammatory, antiphlogistic, antispasmodic, bactericidal, carlminative, cicatrisant, cholagogue, digestive, emmenagogue, febrifuge, fungicidal, hepatic, nerve sedative, stimulant of leucocyte production, stomachic, sudorific, vermifuge, vulnerary.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the flower heads (up to 1.9 per cent yield). An absolute is also produced in small quantities, which is a deeper blue colour and has greater tenacity and fixative properties.
CHARACTERISTICS: An inky-blue viscous liquid with a strong, sweetish warm-herbaceous odour. It blends well with geranium, lavender, patchouli, rose, benzoin, neroli, bergamot, marjoram, lemon, ylang ylang, jasmine, clary sage and labdanum.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Chamazulene, farnesene, bisabolol oxide, en-yndicycloether, among others. (NB The chamazulene is not present in the fresh flower but is only produced during the process of distillation.)
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant; causes dermatitis in some individuals.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin Care: Acne, allergies, boils, burns, cuts, chilblains, dermatitis, earache, eczema, hair care, inflammations, insect bites, rashes, sensitive skin, teething pain, toothache, wounds.
Circulation Muscles And Joints: Arthritis, inflamed joints, muscular pain, neuralgia, rheumatism, sprains.
Digestive System: Dyspepsia, colic, indigestion, nausea.
Genito-Urinary System: Dysmenorrhoea, menopausal problems, menorrhagia.
Nervous System: Headache, insomnia, nervous tension, migraine and stress-related complaints.
OTHER USES: Used in pharmaceutical antiseptic ointments and in carminative, antispasmodic and tonic preparations. Extensively used in cosmetics, soaps, detergents, high-class perfumes and hair and bath products. Used as a flavour ingredient in most major food categories, including alcoholic and soft drinks.... chamomile, german
FAMILY: Burseraceae
SYNONYMS: C. commune, Manila elemi, elemi gum, elemi resin, elemi (oleoresin).
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tropical tree up to 30 metres high which yields a resinous pathological exudation with a green pungent odour. Although it is called a gum, it is almost entirely made up of resin and essential oil.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Philippine Islands and the Moluccas, where it is also cultivated. Distillation of the oil takes place at source.
OTHER SPECIES: There are several other species of Canarium which grow wild or are cultivated in the Philippines, which also yield a ‘gum’. It is also closely related to the trees yielding myrrh, frankincense and opopanax.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The gum or oleoresin is used locally for skin care, respiratory complaints and as a general stimulant. Elemi was one of the aromatics used by the ancient Egyptians for the embalming process.
ACTIONS: Antiseptic, balsamic, cicatrisant, expectorant, fortifying, regulatory, stimulant, stomachic, tonic.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the gum. (A resinoid and resin absolute are also produced in small quantities.)
CHARACTERISTICS: A colourless to pale yellow liquid with a light, fresh, balsamic-spicy, lemonlike odour. It blends well with myrrh, frankincense, labdanum, rosemary, lavender, lavandin, sage, cinnamon and other spices.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: The gum contains about 10–25 per cent essential oil of mainly phellandrene, dipentene, elemol, elemicin, terpineol, carvone and terpinolene among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Aged skin, infected cuts and wounds, inflammations, rejuvenation, wrinkles – signifies drying and ‘preservation’..
Respiratory system: Bronchitis, catarrhal conditions, unproductive coughs.
Nervous system: Nervous exhaustion and stress-related conditions.
OTHER USES: Resinoid and oil are used primarily as fixatives but also as fragrance components in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. Occasionally used as a flavouring ingredient in food products, alcoholic and soft drinks.... elemi
FAMILY: Asteraceae (Compositae)
SYNONYMS: Helenium grandiflorum, Aster officinalis, A. helenium, inula, scabwort, alant, horseheal, yellow starwort, elf dock, wild sunflower, velvet dock, ‘essence d’aunée’.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A handsome perennial herb up to 1.5 metres high, with a stout stem covered in soft hairs. It has oval pointed leaves which are velvety underneath, large, yellow, daisy-like flowers and large, fleshy rhizome roots.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to Europe and Asia, naturalized in North America. Cultivated in Europe (Belgium, France, Germany) and Asia (China, India). The oil is mainly produced from imported roots in southern France.
OTHER SPECIES: There are several varieties of Inula; the European and Asian species are slightly different having a harsher scent. Other varieties include golden samphire (I. crithmoides) and sweet inula (I. graveolens or I. odora), which share similar properties.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: A herb of ancient medical repute, which used to be candied and sold as a sweetmeat. It is used as an important spice, incense and medicine in the east. It is used in both western and eastern herbalism, mainly in the form of a tea for respiratory conditions such as asthma, bronchitis and whooping cough, disorders of the digestion, intestines and gall bladder and for skin disorders.
Current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for irritating cough or bronchitis. Elecampane root is the richest source of inulin.
ACTIONS: Alterative, anthelmintic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antispasmodic, antitussive, astringent, bactericidal, diaphoretic, diuretic, expectorant, fungicidal, hyperglycaemic, hypotensive, stomachic, tonic.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the dried roots and rhizomes. (An absolute and concrete are also produced in small quantities.)
CHARACTERISTICS: A semi-solid or viscous dark yellow or brownish liquid with a dry, soft, woody, honey-like odour, often containing crystals. It blends well with cananga, cinnamon, labdanum, lavender, mimosa, frankincense, orris, tuberose, violet, cedarwood, patchouli, sandalwood, cypress, bergamot and oriental fragrances.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly sesquiterpene lactones, including alantolactone (or helenin), isolactone, dihydroisalantolactone, dihydralantolactone, alantic acid and azulene.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant; however it is a severe dermal sensitizer. In clinical tests it caused ‘extremely severe allergic reactions’ in twenty-three out of twenty-five volunteers. On the basis of these results it is recommended that the oil ‘should not be used on the skin at all’..
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE None.
NB In Phytoguide I, sweet inula (I. odora or I. graveolens), a deep green oil, is described as ‘queen of mucolytic essential oils’, having properties as diverse as: ‘anti-inflammatory, hyperthermic, sedative, cardia-regulative, diuretic and depurative’.. It is described as being an excellent oil for the cardiopulmonary zone including asthma, chronic bronchitis and unproductive coughs. This variety of Inula seems to avoid the sensitization problems of elecampane, at least when it is used as an inhalation or by aerosol treatment.
OTHER USES: Alantolactone is used as an anthelmintic in Europe (it is also an excellent bactericide). The oil and absolute are used as fixatives and fragrance components in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. Used as a flavour ingredient in alcoholic beverages, soft drinks and foodstuffs, especially desserts.... elecampane
FAMILY: Apiaceae (Umbelliferae)
SYNONYMS: F. gummosa, galbanum gum, galbanum resin, ‘bubonion’.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A large perennial herb with a smooth stem, shiny leaflets and small flowers. It contains resin ducts which exude a milky juice, a natural oleoresin. The dried resinous exudation is collected by making incisions at the base of the stem.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Middle East and western Asia; cultivated in Iran, Turkey, Afghanistan and Lebanon. Distillation usually takes place in Europe or the USA.
OTHER SPECIES: There are two distinct types: Levant galbanum which is liquid or soft, and Persian galbanum which is solid or hard. Other Ferula species also yield galbanum gum, such as the muskroot; see also Botanical Classification section.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: It was used by the ancient civilizations as an incense, and in Egypt for cosmetics and in the embalming process. It is generally used in the east in a similar way to asafetida: for treating wounds, inflammations and skin disorders and also for respiratory, digestive and nervous complaints. Zalou root (F. hermonic) is used in Beirut as an aphrodisiac.
ACTIONS: Analgesic, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antiseptic, antispasmodic, aphrodisiac, balsamic, carminative, cicatrisant, digestive, diuretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, hypotensive, restorative, tonic.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by water or steam distillation from the oleoresin or gum – only the Levant or soft type is used for oil production. A partially deterpenized oil is produced, known as ‘galbanol’. (A resinoid is also produced, mainly for use as a fixative.)
CHARACTERISTICS: Crude – A dark amber or brown viscous liquid with a green-woody scent and a soft balsamic undertone. Oil – A colourless, or pale yellow or olive liquid with a fresh green topnote and woody-dry balsamic undertone. It blends well with hyacinth, violet, narcissus, lavender, geranium, oakmoss, opopanax, pine, fir, styrax and oriental bases.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Pinene, cadinol, cadinene and myrcene, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin Care: Abscesses, acne, boils, cuts, heals scar tissue, inflammations, tones the skin, mature skin, wrinkles, wounds – ‘signifies drying and preservation’..
Circulation Muscles And Joints: Poor circulation, muscular aches and pains, rheumatism.
Respiratory System: Asthma, bronchitis, catarrh, chronic coughs.
Digestive System: Cramp, flatulence, indigestion.
Nervous System: Nervous tension and stress-related complaints.
OTHER USES: The Persian gum used to be employed in pharmaceutical products. Both oil and resinoid are used as fixatives and fragrance components in soaps, detergents, creams, lotions and perfumes. Also used as a flavour ingredient in most major food categories, alcoholic and soft drinks.... galbanum
FAMILY: Burseraceae
SYNONYMS: Olibanum, gum thus.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A handsome small tree or shrub with abundant pinnate leaves and white or pale pink flowers. It yields a natural oleo gum resin which is collected by making incisions into the bark: at first, a milky-white liquid appears which then solidifies into tear-shaped amber to orange-brown lumps between the size of a pea and walnut.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Red Sea region; grows wild throughout north east Africa. The gum is mainly produced in Somalia, Ethiopia, China and south Arabia, then distilled in Europe and, to a lesser extent, India.
OTHER SPECIES: Other Boswellia species also yield olibanum gum, such as the Indian variety B. serrata. Constituents vary according to type and locality. See also Botanical Classification section.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Used since antiquity as an incense in India, China and in the west by the Catholic Church. In ancient Egypt it was used in rejuvenating face masks, cosmetics and perfumes. It has been used medicinally in the east and west for a wide range of conditions including syphilis, rheumatism, respiratory and urinary tract infections, skin diseases, as well as digestive and nervous complaints.
ACTIONS: Anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, astringent, carminative, cicatrisant, cytophylactic, digestive, diuretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, sedative, tonic, uterine, vulnerary.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from selected oleo gum resin (approx. 3–10 per cent oil to 60–70 per cent resin). An absolute is also produced, for use mainly as a fixative.
CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow or greenish mobile liquid with a fresh, terpeney top note and a warm, rich, sweet-balsamic undertone. It blends well with sandalwood, pine, vetiver, geranium, lavender, mimosa, neroli, orange, bergamot, camphor, basil, pepper, cinnamon and other spices. It modifies the sweetness of citrus blends in an intriguing way.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly monoterpene hydrocarbons, notably pinene, dipentene, limonene, thujene, phellandrene, cymene, myrcene, terpinene; also octyl acetate, octanol, incensole, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin Care: Blemishes, dry and mature complexions, scars, wounds, wrinkles.
Respiratory System: Asthma, bronchitis, catarrh, coughs, laryngitis.
Genito-Urinary System: Cystitis, dysmenorrhoea, leucorrhoea, metrorrhagia.
Immune System: Colds, ’flu.
Nervous System: Anxiety, nervous tension and stress-related conditions – ‘Frankincense has, among its physical properties, the ability to slow down and deepen the breath … which is very conducive to prayer and meditation.’.
OTHER USES: The gum and oil are used as fixatives and fragrance components in soaps, cosmetics and perfumes, especially oriental, spice and men’s fragrances. Employed in some pharmaceuticals such as liniments and throat pastilles. Extensively used in the manufacture of incense. The oil is used in minute amounts in some foods (such as meat products), alcoholic and soft drinks.... frankincense
FAMILY: Zygophyllaceae
SYNONYMS: Champaca wood (oil), ‘palo santo’.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A small, wild tropical tree up to 4 metres high, with a decorative hard wood.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to South America, especially Paraguay and Argentina. Some oil is distilled in Europe and the USA.
OTHER SPECIES: Distinct from guaiac gum and guaiac resin, known as guaiacum, obtained from related trees Guaiacum officinale and G. sanctum. However, they are somewhat similar products and share common properties.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The wood is much used for ornamental carving. It was formerly used for treating rheumatism and gout; guaiacum is still current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for rheumatism and rheumatoid arthritis. Valnet includes guaiacum in his ‘elixirs’ for gout, venereal disease and in mouthwashes.
ACTIONS: Anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, antirheumatic, antiseptic, diaphoretic, diuretic, laxative.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the broken wood and sawdust.
CHARACTERISTICS: A yellow, amber or greenish, soft or semi-solid mass with a pleasant, tearose type fragrance and sometimes an unpleasant smoky undertone. It blends well with geranium, neroli, oakmoss, rose, costus, sandalwood, amyris, spice and woody-floral bases.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Guaiol (42–72 per cent), bulnesol, bulnesene, guaiene, patchoulene, guaioxide, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Circulationl muscles and joints: Arthritis, gout, rheumatoid arthritis.
OTHER USES: The fluid extract and tincture are used in pharmacology, mainly as a diagnostic reagent in blood tests. Used as a fixative and fragrance component in soaps, cosmetics and perfumes.... guaiacwood
FAMILY: Asteraceae (Compositae)
SYNONYMS: Helichrysum, everlasting, St John’s herb.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A strongly aromatic herb, up to 0.6 metres high with a much-branched stem, woody at the base. The brightly coloured, daisy-like flowers become dry as the plant matures, yet retain their colour.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Mediterranean region, especially the eastern part and North Africa. It is cultivated mainly in Italy, Yugoslavia, Spain and France.
OTHER SPECIES: There are several other Helichrysum species such as H. arenarium found in florist shops and H. stoechas which is also used to produce an absolute. H. orientale is grown for its oil.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: In Europe it is used for respiratory complaints such as asthma, chronic bronchitis and whooping cough; also for headaches, migraine, liver ailments and skin conditions including burns, allergies and psoriasis. Usually taken in the form of a decoction or infusion.
ACTIONS: Anti-allergenic, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antitussive, antiseptic, astringent, cholagogue, cicatrisant, diuretic, expectorant, fungicidal, hepatic, nervine.
EXTRACTION: 1. Essential oil by steam distillation from the fresh flowers and flowering tops. 2. An absolute (and concrete) are also produced by solvent extraction.
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. A pale yellow to red oily liquid with a powerful, rich honeylike scent with a delicate tealike undertone. 2. A yellowy-brown viscous liquid with a rich, floral, tealike scent. It blends well with chamomile, boronia, labdanum, lavender, mimosa, oakmoss, geranium, clary sage, rose, Peru balsam, clove and citrus oils.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Nerol and neryl acetate (30–50 per cent), geraniol, pinene, linalol, isovaleric aldehyde, sesquiterpenes, furfurol and eugenol, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.
Skin care: Abscess, acne, allergic conditions, boils, burns, cuts, dermatitis, eczema, inflammation, spots, wounds etc.
Circulation muscles and joints: Muscular aches and pains, rheumatism, sprains, strained muscles.
Respiratory system: Asthma, bronchitis, chronic coughs, whooping cough.
Digestive system: Liver congestion, spleen congestion.
Immune system: Bacterial infections, colds, ’flu, fever.
Nervous system: Depression, debility, lethargy, nervous exhaustion, neuralgia, stress-related conditions.
OTHER USES: Used as fixatives and fragrance components in soaps, cosmetics and perfumes. The absolute is used to flavour certain tobaccos; used for the isolation of natural anethole.... immortelle
FAMILY: Cistaceae
SYNONYMS: Cistus (oil), gum cistus, ciste, cyste (absolute), labdanum gum, ambreine, European rock rose.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A small sticky shrub up to 3 metres high with lance-shaped leaves which are white and furry on the underside, and fragrant white flowers. Labdanum gum, a dark brown solid mass, is a natural oleoresin which is obtained by boiling the plant material in water.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Mediterranean mountainous regions and the Middle East. Now found throughout the Mediterranean region, especially southern France, Spain, Portugal, Greece, Morocco, Cyprus and Yugoslavia. The oil is mainly produced in Spain.
OTHER SPECIES: Labdanum gum is also obtained from other Cistus species, notably C. incanus, and other subspecies: see Botanical Classification section.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: One of the early aromatic substances of the ancient world. The gum was used formerly for catarrh, diarrhoea, dysentery and to promote menstruation; externally it was used in plasters. The oil from the closely related plant frostwort (Helianthemum canadense), also known as cistus, also has many medicinal qualities and is said to be useful for scrofulous skin conditions, ulcers and tumours, including cancer.
ACTIONS: Antimicrobial, antiseptic, antitussive, astringent, balsamic, emmenagogue, expectorant, tonic.
EXTRACTION: 1. A resinoid or resin concrete and absolute by solvent extraction from the crude gum. 2. An essential oil by steam distillation from the crude gum, the absolute, or from the leaves and twigs of the plant directly.
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. Absolute – a semi solid green or amber mass with a rich, sweet, herbaceous-balsamic odour. 2. Oil – a dark yellow or amber viscous liquid with a warm, sweet, dry-herbaceous musky scent. It blends well with oakmoss, clary sage, pine, juniper, calamus, opopanax, lavender, lavandin, bergamot, cypress, vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, olibanum, chamomile maroc and oriental bases.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: It contains over 170 pinenes, including camphene, sabinene, myrcene, phellandrene, limonene, cymene, cineol, borneol, nerol, geraniol, fenchone, etc. Exact constituents vary according to source.
SAFETY DATA: Generally non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing. Avoid during pregnancy.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Mature skin, wrinkles.
Respiratory system: Coughs, bronchitis, rhinitis, etc.
Immune system: Colds.
OTHER USES: Used as a fixative and fragrance component in lotions, powders, soaps, detergents, colognes and perfumes, especially oriental perfumes and aftershaves. Employed in most major food categories, particularly meat products, as well as alcoholic and soft drinks.... labdanum
FAMILY: Mimosaceae
SYNONYMS: A. decurrens var. dealbata, Sydney black wattle.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An attractive small tree up to 12 metres high, having a greyish-brown bark with irregular longitudinal ridges, delicate foliage and clusters of ball-shaped fragrant yellow flowers.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to Australia; naturalized in North and Central Africa. It was brought to Europe as an ornamental plant in the early nineteenth century, but it now grows wild. The concrete (and absolute) is mainly produced in southern France, and also Italy.
OTHER SPECIES: There are many varieties of Acacia, such as the East African type (A. arabica) which is very similar; the mimosa of the florist shop (A. floribunda); and the Brazilian mimosa or sensitive plant (Mimosa humilis), the homoeopathic tincture of which is used for swelling of the ankles. It is also closely related to cassie.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The bark of mimosa which is known as ‘wattle bark’, has a leather-like odour and astringent taste. It contains up to 42 per cent tannins (also gallic acid) and is used extensively by the tanning industry. It is employed medicinally in similar ways to oak bark, as a specific for diarrhoea, and as an astringent gargle and ointment.
The extract of black catechu (A. catechu) is current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for chronic diarrhoea with colitis.
ACTIONS: Antiseptic, astringent. Extraction a concrete and absolute by solvent extraction from the flowers and twig ends.
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. Concrete – a hard wax-like yellow mass with a sweet-woody, deep floral fragrance. 2. Absolute – an amber-coloured viscous liquid with a slightly green, woody-floral scent. It blends well with lavandin, lavender, ylang ylang, violet, styrax, citronella, Peru balsam, cassie, floral and spice oils.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly hydrocarbons; palmic aldehyde, enanthic acid, anisic acid, acetic acid and phenols.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, nonsensitizing.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Oily, sensitive, general skin care.
Nervous system: Anxiety, nervous tension, over-sensitivity, stress.
OTHER USES: Employed largely in soaps, due to its good fixative properties. Also in high-class perfumes, especially colognes, floral and oriental types.... mimosa
FAMILY: Burseraceae
SYNONYMS: C. erythraea var. glabrascens, bisabol myrrh, sweet myrrh.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall tropical tree, similar to myrrh (to which it is closely related), which contains a natural oleogum resin in tubular vessels between the bark and wood of the trunk. The natives make incisions in the trunk of the tree to increase the yield. The crude gum dries to form dark reddish-brown tear-shaped lumps with a sweet-woody, rootlike odour.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to East Africa (Somalia) and eastern Ethiopia (Harrar Province) where it grows wild. The essential oil production is generally carried out in the USA and Europe from the crude oleogum resin.
OTHER SPECIES: The original or ‘true’ opopanax used in perfumery was derived from a large plant Opopanax chironium or Pastinaca opopanax, a plant similar to the parsnip of the Umbelliferae family and native to the Levant region, Sudan and Arabia. The oleogum resin was obtained by cutting into the stem at the base, which then produces reddish-yellow tears of a strong rootlike, parsnip or celery-type smell. This type of opopanax is now unavailable, and has been replaced by a similar type of oil known as ‘bisabol myrrh’.
Not to be confused with cassie (Acacia farnesiana), which is also known as ‘opopanax’.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Opopanax derived from O. chironium is described as having antispasmodic, expectorant, emmenagogue and antiseptic properties, which used to be employed in asthma, hysteria and visceral afflictions. In the Far East the bisabol myrrh is used extensively as an ingredient in incense.
ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antispasmodic, balsamic, expectorant.
EXTRACTION: 1. Essential oil by steam (or water) distillation from the crude oleogum resin. 2. A resinoid by solvent extraction from the crude oleogum resin.
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. An orange, yellow or olive liquid with a sweet-balsamic, spicy, warm, animal-like odour (it does not contain a medicinal note like myrrh). It resinifies on exposure to air. 2. A solid dark mass with a warm, powdery, sweet-balsamic, rooty odour. It blends well with clary sage, coriander, labdanum, bergamot, myrrh, frankincense, vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, mimosa, fir needle and neroli.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: The crude contains resins, gums (50–80 per cent) and essential oils (10–20 per cent), notably the sesquiterpene ‘bisabolene’ and sesquiterpene alcohols.
SAFETY DATA: Frequently adulterated – it is more expensive than the ‘hirabol myrrh’. The commercial resinoid is also usually mixed with a solvent such as myristate, because it is otherwise unpourable at room temperatures.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE Possibly similar uses to myrrh.
OTHER USES: Used as a fixative and fragrance component in high-class perfumery. Used in liqueurs to lend body and add winelike notes.... opopanax
FAMILY: Burseraceae
SYNONYMS: Balsamodendron myrrha, gum myrrh, common myrrh, hirabol myrrh, myrrha.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: The Commiphora species which yield myrrh are shrubs or small trees up to 10 metres high. They have sturdy knotted branches, trifoliate aromatic leaves and small white flowers. The trunk exudes a natural oleoresin, a pale yellow liquid which hardens into reddish-brown tears, known as myrrh. The native collectors make incisions in the bark of the tree to increase the yield.
DISTRIBUTION: The Commiphora species are native to north east Africa and south west Asia, especially the Red Sea region (Somalia, Yemen and Ethiopia).
OTHER SPECIES: There are several C. species which yield myrrh oleoresin: African or Somali myrrh (C. molmol) and Arabian or Yemen myrrh (C. abyssinica). Bisabol myrrh or opopanax (C. erthraea) also belongs to the same family.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Myrrh has been employed since the earliest times in Eastern and Western medicine; its use is mentioned some 3700 years ago. The ancient Egyptians used it for embalming purposes and in their perfumes and cosmetics. In China it is used for arthritis, menstrual problems, sores and haemorrhoids. In the West it is considered to have an ‘opening, heating, drying nature’ (Joseph Miller), good for asthma, coughs, common cold, catarrh, sore throat, weak gums and teeth, ulcers and sores. It has also been used to treat leprosy.
Current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for mouth ulcers, gingivitis and pharyngitis.
ACTIONS: Anticatarrhal, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antiphlogistic, antiseptic, astringent, balsamic, carminative, cicatrisant, emmenagogue, expectorant, fungicidal, revitalizing, sedative, stimulant (digestive, pulmonary), stomachic, tonic, uterine, vulnerary.
EXTRACTION: 1. Resinoid (and resin absolute) by solvent extraction of the crude myrrh. 2. Essential oil by steam distillation of the crude myrrh.
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. The resinoid is a dark reddish-brown viscous mass, with a warm, rich, spicy-balsamic odour. It is not pourable at room temperature so a solvent, such as diethyl phthalate, is sometimes added. 2. The essential oil is a pale yellow to amber oily liquid with a warm, sweet-balsamic, slightly spicy-medicinal odour. It blends well with frankincense, sandalwood, benzoin, oakmoss, cypress, juniper, mandarin, geranium, patchouli, thyme, mints, lavender, pine and spices.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: The crude contains resins, gum and about 8 per cent essential oil composed mainly of heerabolene, limonene, dipentene, pinene, eugenol, cinnamaldehyde, cuminaldehyde, cadinene, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-irritant, non-sensitizing, possibly toxic in high concentration. Not to be used during pregnancy.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Athlete’s foot, chapped and cracked skin, eczema, mature complexions, ringworm, wounds, wrinkles.
Circulation muscles and joints: Arthritis.
Respiratory system: Asthma, bronchitis, catarrh, coughs, gum infections, gingivitis, mouth ulcers, sore throat, voice loss.
Digestive system: Diarrhoea, dyspepsia, flatulence, haemorrhoids, loss of appetite.
Genito-urinary system: Amenorrhoea, leucorrhoea, pruritis, thrush.
Immune system: Colds.
OTHER USES: The oil, resinoid and tincture are used in pharmaceutical products, including mouthwashes, gargles and toothpaste; also used in dentistry. The oil and resinoid are used as fixatives and fragrance components in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes, especially oriental types and heavy florals. Used as flavour ingredients in most major food categories, alcoholic and soft drinks.... myrrh
FAMILY: Lamiaceae (Labiatae)
SYNONYMS: P. patchouly, patchouly, puchaput.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A perennial bushy herb up to 1 metre high with a sturdy, hairy stem, large, fragrant, furry leaves and white flowers tinged with purple.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to tropical Asia, especially Indonesia and the Philippines. It is extensively cultivated for its oil in its native regions as well as India, China, Malaysia and South America. The oil is also distilled in Europe and America from the dried leaves.
OTHER SPECIES: Closely related to the Java patchouli (P. heyneanus), also known as false patchouli, which is also occasionally used to produce an essential oil.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The oil is used in the East generally to scent linen and clothes, and is believed to help prevent the spread of disease (prophylactic). In China, Japan and Malaysia the herb is used to treat colds, headaches, nausea, vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain and halitosis. In Japan and Malaysia it is used as an antidote to poisonous snakebites.
ACTIONS: Antidepressant, anti-inflammatory, anti-emetic, antimicrobial, antiphlogistic, antiseptic, antitoxic, antiviral, aphrodisiac, astringent, bactericidal, carminative, cicatrisant, deodorant, digestive, diuretic, febrifuge, fungicidal, nervine, prophylactic, stimulant (nervous), stomachic, tonic.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation of the dried leaves (usually subjected to fermentation previously). A resinoid is also produced, mainly as a fixative.
CHARACTERISTICS: An amber or dark orange viscous liquid with a sweet, rich, herbaceous earthy odour – it improves with age. It blends well with labdanum, vetiver, sandalwood, cedarwood, oakmoss, geranium, clove, lavender, rose, neroli, bergamot, cassia, myrrh, opopanax, clary sage and oriental-type bases.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Patchouli alcohol (40 per cent approx.), pogostol, bulnesol, nor patchoulenol, bulnese, patchoulene, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Acne, athlete’s foot, cracked and chapped skin, dandruff, dermatitis, eczema (weeping), fungal infections, hair care, impetigo, insect repellent, sores, oily hair and skin, open pores, wounds, wrinkles.
Nervous system: Frigidity, nervous exhaustion and stress-related complaints.
OTHER USES: Extensively used in cosmetic preparations, and as a fixative in soaps and perfumes, especially oriental types. Extensively used in the food industry, in alcoholic and soft drinks. It makes a good masking agent for unpleasant tastes and smells.... patchouli
FAMILY: Rutaceae
SYNONYMS: C. vulgaris, C. bigaradia, orange blossom, orange flower, neroli bigarade.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An evergreen tree up to 10 metres high with glossy dark green leaves and fragrant white flowers. There are two flowering seasons when the blossom is picked, one in May and another in October (in mild weather). See also bitter orange.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Far East, but well adapted to the Mediterranean climate. Major producers include Italy, Tunisia, Morocco, Egypt, America and especially France.
OTHER SPECIES: The sweet orange (C. aurantium var. dulcis) is also used to make an absolute oil called neroli Portugal or neroli petalae – however, it is less fragrant and considered of inferior quality.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: This oil was named after a princess of Nerola in Italy, who loved to wear it as a perfume. Orange flowers have many folk associations. They were used in bridal bouquets and wreaths, to calm any nervous apprehension before the couple retired to the marriage bed.
On the Continent an infusion of dried flowers is used as a mild stimulant of the nervous system, and as a blood cleanser. The distillation water, known as orange flower water, is a popular cosmetic and household article.
ACTIONS: Antidepressant, antiseptic, antispasmodic, aphrodisiac, bactericidal, carminative, cicatrisant, cordial, deodorant, digestive, fungicidal, hypnotic (mild), stimulant (nervous), tonic (cardiac, circulatory).
EXTRACTION: 1. A concrete and absolute are produced by solvent extraction from the freshly picked flowers. 2. An essential oil is, produced by steam distillation from the freshly picked flowers. An orange flower water and an absolute are produced as a byproduct of the distillation process.
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. The absolute is a dark brown or orange viscous liquid with a fresh, delicate yet rich, warm sweet-floral fragrance; very true to nature. It blends well with jasmine, benzoin, myrrh and all citrus oils. 2. The oil is a pale yellow mobile liquid (darkening with age) with a light, sweet-floral fragrance and terpeney topnote. Blends well with virtually all oils: chamomile, coriander, geranium, benzoin, clary sage, jasmine, lavender, rose, ylang ylang, lemon and other citrus oils.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Linalol (34 per cent approx.), linalyl acetate (6–17 per cent), limonene (15 per cent approx.), pinene, nerolidol, geraniol, nerol, methyl anthranilate, indole, citral, jasmone, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, nonsensitizing, non-phototoxic.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Scars, stretch marks, thread veins, mature and sensitive skin, tones the complexion, wrinkles.
Circulation muscles and joints: Palpitations, poor circulation.
Digestive system: Diarrhoea (chronic), colic, flatulence, spasm, nervous dyspepsia.
Nervous system: Anxiety, depression, nervous tension, PMT, shock, stress-related conditions – ‘I find that by far the most important uses of neroli are in helping with problems of emotional origin.’.
OTHER USES: Neroli oil and orange flower water are used to flavour pharmaceuticals. The absolute is used extensively in high-class perfumery work, especially oriental, floral and citrus blends; also as a fixative. The oil is used in eau-de-cologne and toilet waters (traditionally with lavender, lemon, rosemary and bergamot). Limited use as a flavour ingredient in foods, alcoholic and soft drinks.... neroli
FAMILY: Hamamelidaceae
SYNONYMS: Balsam styracis, oriental sweetgum, Turkish sweetgum, asiatic styrax, styrax, storax, liquid storax.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A deciduous tree up to 15 metres high with a purplish-grey bark, leaves arranged into five three-lobed sections, and white flowers. The styrax is a pathological secretion produced by pounding the bark, which induces the sapwood to produce a liquid from beneath the bark. It hardens to form a semi-solid greenish-brown mass with a sweet balsamic odour.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to Asia Minor. It forms forests around Bodrum, Milas, Mugla and Marmaris in Turkey.
OTHER SPECIES: Very similar to the American styrax (L. styraciflua) or red gum, which produces a natural exudation slightly darker and harder than the Levant type. There are also many other types of styrax; Styrax officinale produced the styrax of ancient civilizations. NB: Styrax benzoin is the botanical name for benzoin, with which it shares similar qualities.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: In China it is used for coughs, colds, epilepsy and skin problems, including cuts, wounds and scabies. In the West it has been recommended as a remedy for catarrh, diphtheria, gonorrhoea, leucorrhoea, ringworm, etc. A syrup made from the bark of the American styrax is used for diarrhoea and dysentery in the western USA.
ACTIONS: Anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antiseptic, antitussive, bactericidal, balsamic, expectorant, nervine, stimulant.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the crude. (A resinoid and absolute are also produced by solvent extraction).
CHARACTERISTICS: A water-white or pale yellow liquid with a sweet-balsamic, rich, tenacious odour. It blends well with ylang ylang, jasmine, mimosa, rose, lavender, carnation, violet, cassie and spice oils.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly styrene with vanillin, phenylpropyl alcohol, cinnamic alcohol, benzyl alcohol and ethyl alcohol, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization in some individuals. Frequently adulterated.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Cuts, ringworm, scabies, wounds.
Respiratory system: Bronchitis, catarrh, coughs.
Nervous system: Anxiety, stress-related conditions.
OTHER USES: Used in compound benzoin tincture, mainly for respiratory conditions. The oil and resinoid are used as fixatives and fragrance components mainly in soaps, floral and oriental perfumes. The resinoid and absolute are used in most major food categories, including alcoholic and soft drinks.
ACTIONS: Anthelmintic, antispasmodic, bactericidal, carminative, diaphoretic, emmenagogue, fungicidal, stomachic.... styrax, levant
FAMILY: Usneaceae
SYNONYMS: Mousse de chene, treemoss.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A light green lichen found growing primarily on oak trees, but sometimes other species.
DISTRIBUTION: The oak (Quercus robur) is indigenous to Europe and North America; the lichen is collected all over central and southern Europe, especially France, Yugoslavia, Hungary, Greece, and also Morocco and Algeria. The aromatic materials are prepared mainly in France, but also in the USA, Bulgaria and Yugoslavia.
OTHER SPECIES: There are many varieties of lichen used for their aromatic qualities, the most common being E. furfuracea and Usnea barbata which are frequently gathered from spruce and pine trees, and are known as fir moss or tree moss in Europe, but in the USA are also called oakmoss. However they are less refined than the ‘true’ oakmoss. Other species include Sticta pulmonaceae or Lobaria pulmonaria, Usnea ceratina, and some members of the Ramalina, Alectoria and Parmelia groups.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Sticta pulmonaceae, a greeny-brown lichen also found growing on oak trees and frequently harvested along with E. prunastri, is also called oak lungs, lung moss, lungwort or ‘lungs of oak’ by the North American Indians who use it for respiratory complaints and for treating wounds. It is called lobaria in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia and is used for asthma, bronchitis and coughs in children.
Many types of lichen, especially the Parmelia group, are used as vegetable dyes.
ACTIONS: Antiseptic, demulcent, expectorant, fixative.
EXTRACTION: A range of products is produced: a concrete and an absolute by solvent extraction from the lichen which has often been soaked in lukewarm water prior to extraction; an absolute oil by vacuum distillation of the concrete; resins and resinoids by alcohol extraction of the raw material. Most important of these products is the absolute.
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. The absolute is a dark green or brown, very viscous liquid with an extremely tenacious, earthy-mossy odour and a leatherlike undertone. 2. The absolute oil is a pale yellow or olive viscous liquid with a dry earthy, barklike odour, quite true to nature. 3. The concrete, resin and resinoids are a very dark-coloured semi-solid or solid mass with a heavy, rich-earthy, extremely tenacious odour. They have a high fixative value and blend with virtually all other oils: they are extensively used in perfumery to lend body and rich natural undertones to all perfume types.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Crystalline matter of so-called ‘lichen acids’: mainly evernic acid, d-usnic acid, some atranorine and chloratronorine.
SAFETY DATA: Extensively compounded or ‘bouquetted’ by cutting or adulteration with other lichen or synthetic perfume materials.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE As a fixative.
OTHER USES: The concrete is used primarily in soaps; the absolute is the most versatile and is used in all perfume types (oriental, moss, fougère, new-mown hay, floral, colognes, aftershaves, etc.). The absolute oil is used in high-class perfumes. The resins and resinoids, which have a poor solubility, are used in soaps, hair preparations, industrial perfumes and low cost products.... oakmoss
FAMILY: Leguminosae
SYNONYMS: Coumarouna odorata, tonquin bean, Dutch tonka bean.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A very large tropical tree with big elliptical leaves and violet flowers, bearing fruit which contain a single black seed or ‘tonka bean’, about the size of a butter bean. The beans, known as ‘rumara’ by the natives, are collected and dried, then soaked in alcohol or rum for twelve to fifteen hours to make them swell. When they are removed from the bath they become dried and shrunken, covered in a whitish powder of crystallized coumann.
The ‘curing’ of the beans is partly a conventional ‘sales promotion’ technique rather than an indication of quality, since the frosted appearance has come to be expected of the product.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to South America, especially Venezuela, Guyana and Brazil; cultivated in Nigeria and elsewhere in West Africa. Most beans come from South America after ‘curing’, to be processed in Europe and the USA.
OTHER SPECIES: There are many species of Dipteryx which produce beans suitable for extraction.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: In Holland the fatty substance from the beans is sold as ‘tarquin butter’, which used to be used as an insecticide against moth in linen cupboards. ‘The fluid extract has been used with advantage in whooping cough, but it paralyses the heart if used in large doses.’.
ACTIONS: Insecticidal, narcotic, tonic (cardiac).
EXTRACTION: A concrete and absolute by solvent extraction from the ‘cured’ beans.
CHARACTERISTICS: The absolute is a semi-solid yellow or amber mass with a very rich, warm and sweet herbaceous-nutty odour. It blends well with lavender, lavandin, clary sage, styrax, bergamot, oakmoss, immortelle and citronella.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly coumarin (20–40 per cent) in the absolute.
SAFETY DATA: Oral and dermal toxin, due to high coumarin content.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE None.
OTHER USES: Used to a limited extent as a pharmaceutical masking agent. The absolute is employed as a fixative and fragrance component in oriental, new-mown hay and chypres-type perfumes. It is no longer used as a flavouring (due to the coumarin ban in many countries), though it is still used to flavour tobacco.... tonka
FAMILY: Iridaceae
SYNONYMS: Orris root, iris, flag iris, pale iris, orris butter (oil).
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A decorative perennial plant up to 1.5 metres high, with sword-shaped leaves, a creeping fleshy rootstock and delicate, highly scented, pale blue flowers.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to the eastern Mediterranean region; also found in northern India and North Africa. Most commercial orris is produced in Italy where it grows wild. The oil is mainly produced in France and Morocco and to lesser extent in Italy and the USA.
OTHER SPECIES: There are many species of iris; cultivation has also produced further types. In Italy the pale iris (I. pallida) is collected indiscriminately with the Florentine orris (I. florentina) which has white flowers tinged with pale blue, and the common or German iris (I. germanica) which has deep purple flowers with a yellow beard. Other species which have been used medicinally include the American blue flag (I. versicolor), and the yellow flag iris (I. pseudacorus).
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: In ancient Greece and Rome orris root was used extensively in perfumery, and its medicinal qualities were held in high esteem by Dioscorides. The juice of the root was used for cosmetic purposes, and the root bruised in wine was employed for dropsy, bronchitis, coughs, hoarseness, chronic diarrhoea and congested headaches. In Russia the root was used to make a tonic drink with honey and ginger.
Iris is little used medicinally these days, but it still appears in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as being formerly used in upper respiratory catarrh, coughs, and for diarrhoea in infants.
ACTIONS: Dried Root – antidiarrhoeal, demulcent, expectorant. Fresh Root – diuretic, cathartic, emetic.
EXTRACTION: 1. An essential oil (often called a ‘concrete’) by steam distillation from the rhizomes which have been peeled, washed, dried and pulverized. The rhizomes must be stored for a minimum of three years prior to extraction otherwise they have virtually no scent! 2. An absolute produced by alkali washing in ethyl ether solution to remove the myristic acid from the ‘concrete’ oil. 3. A resin or resinoid by alcohol extraction from the peeled rhizomes.
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. The oil solidifies at room temperature to a cream-coloured mass with a woody, violet-like scent and a soft, floral-fruity undertone. 2. The absolute is a water-white or pale yellow oily liquid with a delicate, sweet, floral-woody odour. 3. The resin is a brown or dark orange viscous mass with a deep, woody sweet, tobacco-like scent – very tenacious.
Orris blends well with cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver, cypress, mimosa, labdanum, bergamot, clary sage, rose, violet and other florals.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Myristic acid, an odourless substance which makes the ‘oil’ solid (85–90 per cent), alpha-irone and oleic acid.
SAFETY DATA: The fresh root causes nausea and vomiting in large doses. The oil and absolute are much adulterated or synthetic – ‘true’ orris absolute is three times the price of jasmine.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE None. However, the powdered orris, which is a common article, may be used as a dry shampoo, a body powder, a fixative for pot pourris, and to scent linen.
OTHER USES: The powder is used to scent dentifrices, toothpowders, etc. The resin is used in soaps, colognes and perfumes; the absolute and ‘concrete’ oil are reserved for high-class perfumery work. Occasionally used on the Continent for confectionery and fruit flavours.... orris
FAMILY: Poaceae (Gramineae)
SYNONYMS: Andropogon muricatus, vetivert, khus khus.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall, tufted, perennial, scented grass, with a straight stem, long narrow leaves and an abundant complex lacework of undergound white rootlets.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to south India, Indonesia and Sri Lanka. Also cultivated in Reunion, the Philippines, the Comoro Islands, Japan, West Africa and South America. The oil is mainly produced in Java, Haiti and Reunion; some is distilled in Europe and the USA.
OTHER SPECIES: Botanically related to lemongrass, citronella, litsea cubeba and flouve oil (also from the roots of a tropical grass).
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The rootlets have been used in the East for their fine fragrance since antiquity. They are used by the locals to protect domestic animals from vermin, and the fibres of the grass are woven into aromatic matting. It is grown in India to protect against soil erosion during the tropical rainy season.
In India and Sri Lanka the essence is known as ‘the oil of tranquillity’.
ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antispasmodic, depurative, rubefacient, sedative (nervous system), stimulant (circulatory, production of red corpuscles), tonic, vermifuge.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the roots and rootlets washed, chopped, dried and soaked. (A resinoid is also produced by solvent extraction for perfumery work.)
CHARACTERISTICS: A dark brown, olive or amber viscous oil with a deep smoky, earthy woody odour with a sweet persistent undertone. The colour and scent can vary according to the source – Angola produces a very pale oil with a dry-woody odour. It blends well with sandalwood, rose, violet, jasmine, opopanax, patchouli, oakmoss, lavender, clary sage, mimosa, cassie and ylang ylang.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Vetiverol, vitivone, terpenes, e.g. vetivenes, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Acne, cuts, oily skin, wounds.
Circulation muscles and joints: Arthritis, muscular aches and pains, rheumatism, sprains, stiffness.
Nervous system: Debility, depression, insomnia, nervous tension – ‘Vetiver is deeply relaxing, so valuable in massage and baths for anybody experiencing stress.’.
OTHER USES: Employed as a fixative and fragrance ingredient in soaps, cosmetics and perfumes, especially oriental types. The oil is used in food preservatives, especially for asparagus.... vetiver
FAMILY: Lamiaceae (Labiatae)
SYNONYMS: Clary, clary wort, muscatel sage, clear eye, see bright, common clary, clarry, eye bright.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: Stout biennial or perennial herb up to 1 metre high with large, hairy leaves, green with a hint of purple, and small blue flowers.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to southern Europe; cultivated worldwide especially in the Mediterranean region, Russia, the USA, England, Morocco and central Europe. The French, Moroccan and English clary are considered of superior quality for perfumery work.
OTHER SPECIES: Closely related to the garden sage (S. officinalis) and the Spanish sage (S. lavendulaefolia), which are both used to produce essential oils. Other types of sage include meadow clary (S. pratensis) and vervain sage (S. verbenaca). Clary sage should not be confused with the common wayside herb eyebright (Euphrasia).
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: This herb, highly esteemed in the Middle Ages, has now largely fallen out of use. It was used for digestive disorders, kidney disease, uterine and menstrual complaints, for cleansing ulcers and as a general nerve tonic. The mucilage from the seeds was used for treating tumours and for removing dust particles from the eyes.
Like garden sage, it cools inflammation and is especially useful for throat and respiratory infections.
ACTIONS: Anticonvulsive, antidepressant, antiphlogistic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, aphrodisiac, astringent, bactericidal, carminative, cicatrisant, deodorant, digestive, emmenagogue, hypotensive, nervine, regulator (of seborrhoea), sedative, stomachic, tonic, uterine.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the flowering tops and leaves. (A concrete and absolute are also produced by solvent extraction in small quantities.)
CHARACTERISTICS: A colourless or pale yellowy-green liquid with a sweet, nutty herbaceous scent. It blends well with juniper, lavender, coriander, cardamon, geranium, sandalwood, cedarwood, pine, labdanum, jasmine, frankincense, bergamot and other citrus oils.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Linalyl acetate (up to 75 per cent), linalol, pinene, myrcene and phellandrene, among others. Constituents vary according to geographical origin – there are several different chemotypes.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, nonsensitizing. Avoid during pregnancy. Do not use clary sage oil while drinking alcohol since it can induce a narcotic effect and exaggerate drunkenness. Clary sage is generally used in preference to the garden sage in aromatherapy due to its lower toxicity level.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Acne, boils, dandruff, hair loss, inflamed conditions, oily skin and hair, ophthalmia, ulcers, wrinkles.
Circulation muscles and joints: High blood pressure, muscular aches and pains.
Respiratory system: Asthma, throat infections, whooping cough.
Digestive system: Colic, cramp, dyspepsia, flatulence.
Genito-urinary system: Amenorrhoea, labour pain, dysmenorrhoea, leucorrhoea.
Nervous system: Depression, frigidity, impotence, migraine, nervous tension and stress-related disorders.
OTHER USES: The oil and absolute are used as fragrance components and fixatives in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. The oil is used extensively by the food and drink industry, especially in the production of wines with a muscatel flavour.... sage, clary
FAMILY: Santalaceae
SYNONYMS: White sandalwood, yellow sandalwood, East Indian sandalwood, sandalwood Mysore, sanders-wood, santal (oil), white saunders (oil), yellow saunders (oil).
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A small, evergreen, parasitic tree up to 9 metres high with brown-grey trunk and many smooth, slender branches. It has leathery leaves and small pinky-purple flowers. The tree must be over thirty years old before it is ready for the production of sandalwood oil.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to tropical Asia, especially India, Sri Lanka, Malaysia, Indonesia and Taiwan. India is the main essential oil producer; the region of Mysore exports the highest quality oil, although some oil is distilled in Europe and the USA.
OTHER SPECIES: The Australian sandalwood (S. spicatum or Eucarya spicata) produces a very similar oil, but with a dry-bitter top note. The so-called West Indian sandalwood or amyris (Amyris balsamifera) is a poor substitute and bears no botanical relation to the East Indian sandalwood.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: One of the oldest known perfume materials, with at least 4000 years of uninterrupted use. It is used as a traditional incense, as a cosmetic, perfume and embalming material all over the East. It is also a popular building material, especially for temples.
In Chinese medicine it is used to treat stomach ache, vomiting, gonorrhoea, choleraic difficulties and skin complaints. In the Ayurvedic tradition it is used mainly for urinary and respiratory infections, for acute and chronic diarrhoea. In India it is often combined with rose in the famous scent aytar.
ACTIONS: Antidepressant, antiphlogistic, antiseptic (urinary and pulmonary), antispasmodic, aphrodisiac, astringent, bactericidal, carminative; cicatrisant, diuretic, expectorant, fungicidal, insecticidal, sedative, tonic.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by water or steam distillation from the roots and heartwood, powdered and dried.
CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow, greenish or brownish viscous liquid with a deep, soft, sweet-woody balsamic scent of excellent tenacity. It blends well with rose, violet, tuberose, clove, lavender, black pepper, bergamot, rosewood, geranium, labdanum, oakmoss, benzoin, vetiver, patchouli, mimosa, cassie, costus, myrrh and jasmine.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: About 90 per cent santalols, 6 per cent sesquiterpene hydrocarbons: santene, teresantol, borneol, santalone, tri-cyclo-ekasantalal, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, nonsensitizing.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Acne, dry, cracked and chapped skin, aftershave (barber’s rash), greasy skin, moisturizer.
Respiratory system: Bronchitis, catarrh, coughs (dry, persistent), laryngitis, sore throat.
Digestive system: Diarrhoea, nausea.
Genito-urinary system: Cystitis.
Nervous system: Depression, insomnia, nervous tension and stress-related complaints.
OTHER USES: Used to be used as a pharmaceutical disinfectant, now largely abandoned. Extensively employed as a fragrance component and fixative in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes – especially oriental, woody, aftershaves, chypres, etc. Extensively used in the production of incense. Employed as a flavour ingredient in most major food categories, including soft and alcoholic drinks.... sandalwood
FAMILY: Pinaceae
SYNONYMS: Terebinth, therebentine, gum thus, gum turpentine, turpentine balsam, spirit of turpentine (oil).
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: ‘Gum turpentine’ is a term loosely applied to the natural oleoresin formed as a physiological product in the trunks of various Pinus, Picea and Abies species. Turpentine refers both to the crude oleoresin (a mixture of oil and resin) and to the distilled and rectified essential oils.
DISTRIBUTION: All over the world. The largest producer is the USA, also Mexico, France, Portugal, Spain, Greece, Scandinavia, New Zealand, Tasmania, India, China, the USSR, etc.
OTHER SPECIES: Apart from the longleaf pine (Pinus palustris), which is the leading source of American gum turpentine, other sources in the USA include the slash pine (P. elliottii) and the Mexican white pine (P. ayacahuite). In India the chir pine (P. roxburghii); in Tasmania the lodgepole pine (P. contorta var. latifolia); in China the masson or Southern red pine (P. massoniana); in Europe and Scandinavia the Scotch pine (P. sylvestris) and the sea pine (P. pinaster), as well as many others. See Botanical Classification section.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Known to Galen and Hippocrates for its many applications, especially with regard to pulmonary and genito-urinary infections, digestive complaints and externally as a treatment for rheumatic or neuralgic pain and skin conditions. In China the oleoresin has been used (both internally and externally) for centuries for excess phlegm, bronchitis, rheumatism, stiff joints, toothache, boils, sores, ringworm and dermatitis.
The turpentine essence or spirit of turpentine is said to be four times more active than the crude turpentine.
ACTIONS: Analgesic, antimicrobial, antirheumatic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, balsamic, diuretic, cicatrisant, counter-irritant, expectorant, haemostatic, parasiticide, rubefacient, stimulant, tonic, vermifuge.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam (or water) distillation from the crude oleoresin, then rectified. ‘It has to be purified because it is viscous, coloured and acidic.’.
CHARACTERISTICS: A colourless, water white mobile liquid with a fresh, warm balsamic, familiar odour.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly alphapinene (approx. 50 per cent), betapinene (25–35 per cent) and carene (20–60 per cent) in the American oils. In European oils the alpha pinene can constitute up to 95 per cent – constituents vary according to source.
SAFETY DATA: Environmental hazard – marine pollutant. Relatively non-toxic and non-irritant; possible sensitization in some individuals. Avoid therapeutic use or employ in moderation only.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE Use with care for:
Skin care: Boils, cuts, fleas, insect repellent, lice, ringworm, scabies, wounds.
Circulation muscles and joints: Arthritis, gout, muscular aches and pains, rheumatism, sciatica.
Respiratory system: Bronchitis, catarrh, whooping cough.
Genito-urinary system: Cystitis, leucorrhoea, urethritis.
Immune system: Colds.
Nervous system: Neuralgia.
OTHER USES: Used in many ointments and lotions for aches and pains; and in cough and cold remedies. Neither oil nor oleoresin is used in perfumery work, although resin derivatives are used as fixative agents and in pine and industrial perfumes. Mainly known as a paint and stain remover, solvent and insecticide. Also used as a starting material for the production of terpineol, etc.... turpentine
FAMILY: Annonaceae
SYNONYMS: Unona odorantissimum, flower of flowers.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall tropical tree up to 20 metres high with large, tender, fragrant flowers, which can be pink, mauve or yellow. The yellow flowers are considered best for the extraction of essential oil.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to tropical Asia, especially Indonesia and the Philippines. Major oil producers are Madagascar, Reunion and the Comoro Islands.
OTHER SPECIES: Very closely related to cananga (C. odoratum var. macrophylla), although the oil produced from the ylang ylang is considered of superior quality for perfumery work, having a more refined quality.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: In Indonesia, the flowers are spread on the beds of newly married couples on their wedding night. In the Molucca Islands, an ointment is made from ylang ylang and cucuma flowers in a coconut oil base for cosmetic and hair care, skin diseases, to prevent fever (including malaria) and fight infections.
In the Victorian age, the oil was used in the popular hair treatment Macassar oil, due to its stimulating effect on the scalp, encouraging hair growth. The oil was also used to soothe insect bites, and is thought to have a regulating effect on cardiac and respiratory rhythm.
ACTIONS: Aphrodisiac, antidepressant, anti infectious, antiseborrhoeic, antiseptic, euphoric, hypotensive, nervine, regulator, sedative (nervous), stimulant (circulatory), tonic.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by water or steam distillation from the freshly picked flowers. The first distillate (about 40 per cent) is called ylang ylang extra, which is the top grade. There are then three further successive distillates, called Grades 1, 2 and 3. A ‘complete’ oil is also produced which represents the total or ‘unfractionated’ oil, but this is sometimes constructed by blending ylang ylang 1 and 2 together, which are the two least popular grades. (An absolute and concrete are also produced by solvent extraction for their long-lasting floral-balsamic effect.)
CHARACTERISTICS: Ylang ylang extra is a pale yellow, oily liquid with an intensely sweet, soft, floral-balsamic, slightly spicy scent – a good oil has a creamy rich topnote. A very intriguing perfume oil in its own right, it also blends well with rosewood, jasmine, vetiver, opopanax, bergamot, mimosa, cassie, Peru balsam, rose, tuberose, costus and others. It is an excellent fixative. The other grades lack the depth and richness of the ylang ylang extra.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Methyl benzoate, methyl salicylate, methyl paracretol, benzyl acetate, eugenol, geraniol, linalol and terpenes: pinene, cadinene, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, a few cases of sensitization reported. Use in moderation, since its heady scent can cause headaches or nausea.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Acne, hair growth, hair rinse, insect bites, irritated and oily skin, general skin care.
Circulation muscles and joints: High blood pressure, hyperpnoea (abnormally fast breathing), tachycardia, palpitations.
Nervous system: Depression, frigidity, impotence, insomnia, nervous tension and stress-related disorders – ‘The writer, working with odorous materials for more than twenty years, long ago noticed that ... ylang ylang soothes and inhibits anger born of frustration.’.
OTHER USES: Extensively used as a fragrance component and fixative in soaps, cosmetics and perfumes, especially oriental and floral types; ylang ylang extra tends to be used in high-class perfumes, ylang ylang 3 in soaps, detergents, etc. Used as a flavour ingredient, mainly in alcoholic and soft drinks, fruit flavours and desserts.... ylang ylang
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