Neroli Health Dictionary

  1. Health Encyclopedia
  2. Neroli

Neroli: From 1 Different Sources

Citrus aurantium var. amara

FAMILY: Rutaceae

SYNONYMS: C. vulgaris, C. bigaradia, orange blossom, orange flower, neroli bigarade.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An evergreen tree up to 10 metres high with glossy dark green leaves and fragrant white flowers. There are two flowering seasons when the blossom is picked, one in May and another in October (in mild weather). See also bitter orange.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Far East, but well adapted to the Mediterranean climate. Major producers include Italy, Tunisia, Morocco, Egypt, America and especially France.

OTHER SPECIES: The sweet orange (C. aurantium var. dulcis) is also used to make an absolute oil called neroli Portugal or neroli petalae – however, it is less fragrant and considered of inferior quality.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: This oil was named after a princess of Nerola in Italy, who loved to wear it as a perfume. Orange flowers have many folk associations. They were used in bridal bouquets and wreaths, to calm any nervous apprehension before the couple retired to the marriage bed.

On the Continent an infusion of dried flowers is used as a mild stimulant of the nervous system, and as a blood cleanser. The distillation water, known as orange flower water, is a popular cosmetic and household article.

ACTIONS: Antidepressant, antiseptic, antispasmodic, aphrodisiac, bactericidal, carminative, cicatrisant, cordial, deodorant, digestive, fungicidal, hypnotic (mild), stimulant (nervous), tonic (cardiac, circulatory).

EXTRACTION: 1. A concrete and absolute are produced by solvent extraction from the freshly picked flowers. 2. An essential oil is, produced by steam distillation from the freshly picked flowers. An orange flower water and an absolute are produced as a byproduct of the distillation process.

CHARACTERISTICS: 1. The absolute is a dark brown or orange viscous liquid with a fresh, delicate yet rich, warm sweet-floral fragrance; very true to nature. It blends well with jasmine, benzoin, myrrh and all citrus oils. 2. The oil is a pale yellow mobile liquid (darkening with age) with a light, sweet-floral fragrance and terpeney topnote. Blends well with virtually all oils: chamomile, coriander, geranium, benzoin, clary sage, jasmine, lavender, rose, ylang ylang, lemon and other citrus oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Linalol (34 per cent approx.), linalyl acetate (6–17 per cent), limonene (15 per cent approx.), pinene, nerolidol, geraniol, nerol, methyl anthranilate, indole, citral, jasmone, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, nonsensitizing, non-phototoxic.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Scars, stretch marks, thread veins, mature and sensitive skin, tones the complexion, wrinkles.

Circulation muscles and joints: Palpitations, poor circulation.

Digestive system: Diarrhoea (chronic), colic, flatulence, spasm, nervous dyspepsia.

Nervous system: Anxiety, depression, nervous tension, PMT, shock, stress-related conditions – ‘I find that by far the most important uses of neroli are in helping with problems of emotional origin.’.

OTHER USES: Neroli oil and orange flower water are used to flavour pharmaceuticals. The absolute is used extensively in high-class perfumery work, especially oriental, floral and citrus blends; also as a fixative. The oil is used in eau-de-cologne and toilet waters (traditionally with lavender, lemon, rosemary and bergamot). Limited use as a flavour ingredient in foods, alcoholic and soft drinks.

Health Source: The Encyclopedia of Essential Oils
Author: Julia Lawless

Ambrette

Abelmoschus moschatus

Malvaceae

San: Latakasturika Hin, Guj,

Ben: Mushkdana Mal: Kasthurivenda Mar: Kasthuri- bhendi

Tel: Kasturi benda

Tam: Varttilaikasturi

Kan: Kasturi bende Ass: Gorukhiakorai

Importance: Ambrette, also popularly known as musk or Muskmallow, is an erect annual herb which yields musk-like scented seeds and woos everybody through its sensuous musky fragrance. Every part of this medicinal plant is used in one or the other way. Seeds are effective aphrodisiac and antispasmodic, and used in tonics. They check vomiting and cure diseases due to kapha and vata and are useful in treating intestinal disorders, urinary discharge, nervous disorders, hysteria, skin diseases, snake bites, pruritus, leucoderma and general debility. Flower infusion is contraceptive. The leaves and roots are used for gonorrhoea and to treat boils and swellings.

Ambrette oil of commerce is extracted from the seeds and is used in perfumery, flavouring, cosmetic and agarbathi industries. The essential oil is employed in non-alcoholic beverages, ice-creams, candies and baked foods. The aromatic concrete and absolute, extracted from seeds are used as base material for preparing high grade perfumes, scents and cosmetics. It is also known for exalting, amplifying and diffusing effects it imparts to perfumes. It blends well with rose, neroli, and sandal wood oil and aliphatic aldehydes.

The flowers are in great demand for making ‘zarda’ a flavoured tobacco in India. The seeds are mixed with tea and coffee for flavour. The seed is rich in essential amino acids and is used as cattle or poultry feed. The stem bark yields a good quality fibre. Seeds are used to protect woollen garments against moth and it imparts a musky odour to sachets, hair powder, panmasala and incense. Its tender shoots are used in soups, green pods as vegetable and seed husk in flower arrangements. From perfumes to panmasalas and tonics, it is the musky musk all the way. In addition to internal consumption, its seeds are exported to Canada, France and UK because of its diversified uses (Srinivasan et al, 1997).

Distribution: The musk plant is a native of India and it grows in the tropical subtropical and hilly regions of the country; particularly in the states of Maharashta, Gujarat, Madhyapresh, Tamil Nadu and Kerala. More than 50 collections of the plant are maintained by the National Bureau of Plant Genetic Resources (NBPGR), New Delhi and its regional station in Akola, Maharashtra.

Botany: Abelmoschus moschatus Medicus syn. Hibiscus abelmoshus Linn. belongs to Family Malvaceae. Muskmallow is an erect annual or biennial hirsute or hispid herb of 60-180 cm height. The leaves are simple polymorphous, usually palmately 3-7 lobed; lobes narrow, acute or oblong-ovate, crenate, serrate or irregularly toothed, hairy on both surfaces. Flowers are large and bright yellow with purple centre. Fruits are fulvous, hairy and capsular. Seeds are many, subreniform, black or greyish - brown and musk scented (Husain et al, 1992).

Agrotechnology: Ambrette is a hardy plant which can be grown in varied climate under tropical and subtropical conditions. It can be grown both as a rainfed crop and as an irrigated crop. It grows on well drained loamy and sandy loam soils. Loamy soils with neutral pH and plenty of organic matter are ideal for its cultivation.

Musk of propagated through seeds. The optimum time of sowing is June-July with pre- monsoon showers. The land is prepared well by ploughing, harrowing and levelling. Well decomposed FYM or compost is incorporated into the soil at 10 - 15 t/ha. Ridges and furrows are formed giving a spacing of 60 - 100 cm. Seed rate is 2-3 kg/ha. Seeds are soaked in water before sowing for 24 hours. Two to three seeds are sown per hole at 60 cm spacing on one side of the ridge at a depth of 1 cm and covered with a pinch of sand or loose soil. It takes 5-7 days for proper germination. After germination, extra seedlings are thinned out leaving one healthy growing plant per hole within 20 days. Fertilisers are applied at 120:40:40 kg N, P2O5, K2O/ha generally. However, a dose 160:80:80 kg/ha is recommended for best yields of seed and oil. Phosphorus is applied fully as basal. N and K are applied in 3 equal doses at planting, 2 and 4 months after planting. Fertilizers are applied 10 cm away from the plants. For irrigated crop, field is irrigated soon after sowing. Irrigation is given twice a week during the initial period and once a week thereafter. The field is kept weed free by regular weeding during the growing period (Farooqi and Khan, 1991).

Musk plants suffer from pests like spider mites, fruit bores and leaf eating caterpillars. Diseases like powdery mildew and wilt are also observed on the plant. Spider mites and powdery mildew are controlled by spraying 30g wettable sulphur in 10 litres of water. Pod borers can be controlled by spraying 20ml oxydemeton methyl in 10 litres of water.

The crop starts flowering about 75 days after sowing. The flowers set into fruits in 3-4 days and the pods take nearly a month to mature. Flowering and fruit setting extends from October to April. Harvesting is arduous. Fruits have to be plucked as soon as they attain black colour; otherwise, they split and seeds scatter. Therefore, weekly collection of pods is necessary and in all 20-25 pluckings may be required as it is a 170-180 days duration crop. The fruits are further dried and threshed to separate seeds. The seed yield is 1-1.5 /ha

Postharvest technology:. The oil is extracted from seed by steam distillation followed by solvent extraction.

The concrete of solvent extraction is further extracted with alcohol to get the absolute, that is, the alcohol soluble volatile concentrate.

Properties and activity: The fatty oil of seeds contain phospholipids as 2 - cephalin, phosphatidylserine and its plasmalogen and phosphatidyl choline plasmalogen. Absolute contains farnesol and ambrettolic acid lactone. - sitosterol and its - d - glucosides are isolated from leaves. Petals contain -sitosterol, flavonoid myricetin and its glucoside. Anthocyanins like cyanidin - 3 - sambubioside and cyanidin - 3 - glucoside are present in the flowers. (Chopra and Nayar, 1980) Seeds are aphrodisiac, antispasmodic, diuretic, demulcent, antiseptic, stomachic, tonic, carminative, antihysteric, antidiarrhoeal, ophthalmic, cardiac and antivenum.... ambrette

Nerola

(Italian) Resembling the orange flower

Nerolia, Nerolie, Nerolea, Neroli, Neroley, Neroly, Nerolee, Neroleigh... nerola

Bypass Operation

The transplant of an artery or vein from the leg to bypass a clogged artery in the heart. Vessels may be blocked by a deposit of plaque made up of collagen, fats and cholesterol solidified by calcium and other mineral salts, and which may have been building up for 30-40 years. See: CHELATION.

London’s Middlesex Hospital Intensive Care Unit has found that a 20-minute foot massage using Neroli oil significantly reduces the level of anxiety and pain experienced by post-cardiac surgery patients. ... bypass operation

Eleusine Indica

Gaertin.

Family: Gramineae, Poaceae.

Habitat: Australia, North America; throughout the warmer parts of the world. In India, in wet plains and low hills and pasture grounds.

English: Crowfoot Grass, Crab Grass.

Ayurvedic: Nandimukha (var.).

Folk: Nandiaa (Orissa), Mahaar Naachni (Maharashtra), Thippa Ragi (Tamil Nadu).

Action: Used for biliary disorders. In Vietnamese traditional medicine, a decoction of the whole plant is used as stomachic, diuretic, febrifuge, and in sprains.

Aerial parts contain vitexin, 3-O- beta-D-glucopyranosyl-beta-sitosterol and its 6'-O-palmitoyl derivatives. of intoxication. Used for abdominal pains, nausea, bleeding nose. Fresh plants from Uttaranchal gave 0.4% essential oil having dehydroelsholtzia ketone 88.7% as the main constituent, followed by humulene 2.4% and caryophyllene 0.9% (the oil composition of the species which grow in Japan and Kashmir is different.)

Plant contains linarin, apigenin and 7-O-glucosides of apigenin and lute- olin.

The Japanese species, used for hangovers, gave compounds including tri- terpenoids, steroids and flavonoids.

Elsholtzia blenda Benth., synonym Perilla elata D. Don, is also equated with Ban-Tulasi. Major constituent of the essential oil is geranyl acetate. Other constituents are p-cymene, sa- binene, borneol, geraniol, linalyl acetate, fernesol, limonene, linalool, cit- ronellol, thymol and nerolidol.... eleusine indica

Eriobotrya Japonica

Lindl.

Family Rosaceae.

Habitat: Native to China; now cultivated mainly in Saharanpur, Dehradun, Muzaffarnagar, Meerut, Kanpur, Bareilly districts of Uttar Pradesh, Amritsar, Gurdaspur and Hoshiarpur districts of Punjab.

English: Loquat, Japanese Medlar.

Ayurvedic: Lottaaka (non-classical).

Unani: Lokaat.

Siddha: Ilakotta, Nokkotta (Tamil).

Action: Leaves—used in China and India for the treatment of diabetes mellitus and skin diseases. Fruit— sedative, antiemetic. Flower— expectorant.

The plant contains lipopolysaccha- rides (LPS), which exhibit antirheu- matic activity. LPS is also found useful for treating diabetes mellitus and lowering high cholesterol level. The ethanolic extract of the leaves showed anti-inflammatory activity on carra- geenan-induced oedema in rats and significant hypoglycaemic effect in normal rabbits like the standard drug tolbutamide. The sesquiterpene gly- coside and polyhydroxylated triterpe- noids showed a marked inhibition of glycosuria in genetically diabetic mice; also reduced blood glucose level in nor- moglycaemic rats. The hypoglycaemic effect is mediated through the release of insulin from pancreatic beta cells.

The leaves gave ionone-derived gly- cosides and triterpenes. Maslinic and ursolic acids have also been isolated. Maslinic acid possesses significant anti-inflammatory activity. It also exhibits inhibitory effect on histamine- induced contraction in isolated ileum of guinea pig.

Hot aqueous extract of the leaves showed hepatoprotective activity experimentally.

The leaves yield an essential oil containing nerolidol (61-74%).

The presence of an antifungal compound, eriobofuran, is also reported.

The methanolic extract of the plant exhibits antioxidant and radical scavenging activity.... eriobotrya japonica

Illicium Verum

Hook. f.

Family: Magnoliaceae, Illiciaceae.

Habitat: Native to China. Fruits imported from China and IndoChina.

English: Star Anise, Chinese Anise, Aniseed Stars.

Unani: Baadyaan Khataai.

Siddha/Tamil: Takkola, Anasippo.

Folk: Anasphal.

Action: Carminative (used for colic), stimulant, diuretic. Also used in rheumatism.

Key application: In catarrhs of the respiratory tract and peptic discomforts. (German Commission E.)

The fruit contains a volatile oil containing trans-anethole 80-90%, and feniculin (14.56%), with estragole, beta-bisabolene, beta-farnesene, ca- ryophyllene, nerolidol.

The intake of trans-anethole (1.0%) does not show any chronic toxicity in rats. Veranisatins, isolated from the extract, showed convulsive effect in mice. Methanolic extract exhibited a hypothermic effect in mice.

Illicium griffithii Hook. f. & Thoms. is found in Bhutan and Khasi hills at altitudes of 1,400-1,100 m. The fruit, known as Baadiyaan, is bitter and astringent, reported to be poisonous. It is used as stimulant and carminative. Essential oil resembles that from aniseed (Pimpinella anisum Linn.) and fennel (Foeniculum vulgare Mill.)... illicium verum

Ears

WAX. A little wax is normal. When it collects and thickens removal by syringe is necessary. To soften in preparation for the syringe: instil 3-4 drops Castor, Mullein, Garlic or Almond oil into the ear and insert small plug cotton wool. If not available: use Peanut oil.

EAU de COLOGNE. Sydney Gold Medal. Mix, parts: oils of Bergamot (1), Citronella (2), Neroli (1), Rosemary (1), Alcohol (say vodka) 20 parts. Dissolve. For perfumery, or to neutralise sick-room effluvia of the terminally ill. ... ears

Melaleuca Leucadendron

Linn.

Family: Myrtaceae.

Habitat: Indegenous to Burma, Cambodia, Thailand, Malay Peninsula to Australia; grown in Indian gardens and parks.

English: Cajeput tree, Swamp Tea tree, White Tea tree.

Folk: Kaayaaputi. (The oil of Cajeput is imported into India, chiefly from France and Netherlands.)

Action: Oil—used as an expectorant in chronic laryngitis and bronchitis, and as a carminative. Acts as anthelmintic, especially against round worms. Enters into ointments for rheumatism and stiff joints, sprains and neuralgia, migraine, colds, influenza, and as a mosquito repellent.

Key application: The oil is antimicrobial and hypermic in vitro. (German Commission.)

The oil contains terpenoids, 1,8- cineole (40-65%) as major component, with alpha-pinene, alpha-terpineol, nerolidol, limonene, benzaldehyde, valeraldehyde, dipentene and various sesquiterpenes; 3,5-dimethyl-4,6,di- O-methylphloroacetophenone.

The essential oil of Melaleuca al- ternifolia (Tea Tree Oil) is indicated for acne, tinea pedis and toe and nail onychomycosis on the basis of human trials. (Sharon M. Herr.)

Tea Tree Oil is distilled from the leaves of several species of Australian trees belonging the genus Melaleuca, principaly from M. alternifolia. Tea Tree Oil should contain a maximum of 15% 1,8-cineole and a minimum of 30% (+)-terpinen-4-ol, the principal germicidal ingredient. Other constituents, alpha-terpineol and linalool, also exhibit antimicrobial activity. (Cited in Rational Phytotherapy.)

The essential oil of Melaleuca virdi- flora Solander ex Gaertner leaves, known as Niauli Oil, is used for catarrh of the upper respiratory tract. The oil is antibacterial and stimulatory to circulation in vitro. (German Commission E.) Like cajeput oil, the principal constituent is cineole (eucalyptol).

A related species, M. genistifolia, indigenous to Australia, is grown in botanical gardens at Saharanpur and Lucknow (Uttar Pradesh). The leaves and terminal twigs yield 0.53% of a volatile oil which consists mainly of d-pinene, and about 2% cineole and traces of aldehyde.... melaleuca leucadendron

Bitter Orange

Citrus aurantium L. var. Amara L.

Leaves are antispasmodic and digestive; flowers have a tranquilliser effect; the peel is a stomachic- bitter; seeds contain linolenic acid to disperse cholesterol deposits. Essential oil (neroli) is inhaled for hysteria and fainting. Orange peel is a bitter-tonic for flatulence and depression. A tea is made from the leaves and flowers: 2 teaspoons to each cup boiling water. Used by the perfumery industry (eau de cologne). Adds a bitter-sweet flavour to ‘Curacao’ liquers. Stimulates appetite. Orange wine. Aromatherapy. External use of the oil for fatigue, limited powers of endurance, recovery from prolonged illnesses and surgical operations. ... bitter orange

Allspice

Pimenta dioica

FAMILY: Myrtaceae

SYNONYMS: P. officinalis, pimento, pimenta, Jamaica pepper.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An evergreen tree which reaches about 10 metres high and begins to produce fruit in its third year. Each fruit contains two kidney-shaped green seeds which turn glossy black upon ripening.

DISTRIBUTION: Indigenous to the West Indies and South America, it is cultivated extensively in Jamaica, Cuba and, to a lesser degree, in Central America. Imported berries are distilled in Europe and America.

OTHER SPECIES: Four other varieties of pimento are found in Venezuela, Guyana and the West Indies which are used locally as spices.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Used for flatulent indigestion and externally for neuralgic or rheumatic pain. Pimento water is used as a vehicle for medicines which ease dyspepsia and constipation since it helps prevent griping pains. It is used extensively as a domestic spice – allspice is so called because it tastes like a combination of cloves, juniper berries, cinnamon and pepper.

ACTIONS: Anaesthetic, analgesic, anti-oxidant, antiseptic, carminative, muscle relaxant, rubefacient, stimulant, tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from 1. the leaves, and 2. the fruit. The green unripe berries contain more oil than the ripe berries, but the largest percentage of oil is contained in the shell of the fruit. An oleoresin from the berries is also produced in small quantities.

CHARACTERISTICS: 1. Pimenta leaf oil is a yellowish-red or brownish liquid with a powerful sweet-spicy scent, similar to cloves. 2. Pimenta berry oil is a pale yellow liquid with a sweet warm balsamic-spicy bodynote (middle note) and fresh, clean top note. It blends well with ginger, geranium, lavender, opopanax, labdanum, ylang ylang, patchouli, neroli, oriental and spicy bases.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly eugenol, less in the fruit (60–80 per cent) than in the leaves (up to 96 per cent), also methyl eugenol, cineol, phellandrene and cryophyllene among others.

SAFETY DATA: Eugenol irritates the mucous membranes, and has been found to cause dermal irritation. Pimenta leaf and berry oil should therefore be used with care in low dilutions only.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE:

Circulation, muscles and joints: Arthritis, fatigue, muscle cramp, rheumatism, stiffness etc. ‘Used in tiny amounts … in a massage oil for chest infections, for severe muscle spasm to restore mobility quickly, or where extreme cold is experienced.’1

Respiratory System: Chills, congested coughs, bronchitis.

Digestive System: Cramp, flatulence, indigestion, nausea.

Nervous System: Depression, nervous exhaustion, neuralgia, tension and stress.

OTHER USES: Used in aromatic carminative medicines; as a fragrance component in cosmetics and perfumes, especially soaps, aftershaves, spicy and oriental fragrances. Both leaf and berry oil are used extensively for flavouring foods, especially savoury and frozen foods, as well as alcoholic and soft drinks.... allspice

Hair Loss

Alopecia. Baldness. Shedding of the hair in patches leaving glossy bald areas. It is normal to lose about one hundred hairs a day, but severe stress such as unemployment, divorce or death in a family may considerably increase hair loss. Losses of long-standing are seldom recovered.

Causes: hormone deficiency (Agnus Castus) in females, where it may be associated with failing thyroid or ovarian function. In such cases, other agents include: Helonias, Motherwort, Black Haw bark. Other causes may be pregnancy, the menopause, or simply discontinuing The Pill. Certain skin diseases predispose: ringworm (Thuja), eczema (Yellow Dock), from thyroid disorder (Kelp, Blue Flag root).

Exposure to some cosmetics, excessive sunlight, strong chemicals and treatment of cancer with cytotoxic drugs may interfere with nutrition of the hair follicles. To ensure a healthy scalp a correct mineral balance is essential calling for supplementation of the diet with vitamins, selenium, zinc and silica. Yellow Dock is believed to counter toxicity of chemicals; Pleurisy root opens the pores to promote sweat and action of surface capillaries.

Baldness sometimes happens suddenly; eye-lashes or beard may be affected. Though emotional stress and a run-down condition is a frequent cause, most cases are not permanent, returning to normal with adequate treatment.

Baldness of the eyebrows alerts us to a lowered function of the thyroid gland, being an early outward sign of myxoedema. A pony-tail hair style or the wearing of a crash helmet may cause what is known as traction alopecia. Heavy coffee drinkers invariably lose hair lustre.

Soviet Research favours silica-rich plants internally and as a lotion: Horsetail, Burdock, Nettles, Bamboo gum.

Growth of hair is assisted by improving surface circulation of the scalp which is beneficial for conveying nutrients to the hair roots and facilitating drainage. Herbal vasodilators stimulate hair follicle nutrition and encourage growth: Cayenne, Pleurisy root, Black Cohosh and Prickly Ash, taken internally. A convenient way of taking Cayenne is the use of a pepper-shaker at table.

Topical. Hair rinse. 2-3 times weekly. Infusion: equal parts Yarrow, Sage and Rosemary. 1oz (30g) to 1 pint (500ml) water. Simmer gently five minutes. Allow to cool. Strain before use.

Cider vinegar – minimal success reported.

Day lotion. Liquid Extract Jaborandi half an ounce; Tincture Cantharides half an ounce; Oil Jojoba to 4oz. Shake well before use.

Oily lotion. Equal parts Olive and Eucalyptus oils.

Bay Rhum Lotion. Oil of Bay 50 drops; Olive oil half an ounce; Rum (Jamaica or other) to 4oz. Shake well before use.

Oil Rosemary: rub into hair roots.

Russian Traditional. Castor oil half an ounce; Almond oil 1oz; Oil Geranium 15 drops; Vodka to 6oz. Rub into hair roots.

Aromatherapy. To 1oz Castor oil and 1oz Olive oil add, 10 drops each – Oils Neroli, Lavender and Rosemary.

Gentian plant extract. Japanese scalp massage with extract from roots to thicken thinning hair. Some success reported.

Supplements. B-vitamins, Kelp, Silicea Biochemic salt. Zinc. Low levels of iron and zinc can cause the condition.

Note: Studies show that male occipital baldness confers a risk of heart disease, being associated with a higher total cholesterol and diastolic blood pressure than men with a full head of hair. Frontal baldness has not been found to be associated with increased risk of coronary heart disease and myocardial infarct. “It seems prudent for bald men to be specially vigorous in controlling risk factors for such conditions.” (S.M. Lesko, Journal of the American Medical Association, Feb 24, 1993, 269: 998-1003) ... hair loss

Ambrette Seed

Abelmoschus moschatus

FAMILY: Malvaceae

SYNONYMS: Hibiscus abelmoschus, musk seed, Egyptian alcee, target-leaved hibiscus, muskmallow.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An evergreen shrub about 1.5 metres high, bearing large single yellow flowers with a purple centre. The capsules, in the form of five-cornered pyramids, contain the greyish-brown kidney-shaped seeds which have a musky odour.

DISTRIBUTION: Indigenous to India; widely cultivated in tropical countries including Indonesia, Africa, Egypt, China, Madagascar, and the West Indies. Distillation of the oil is generally carried out in Europe and America.

OTHER SPECIES: A variety, H. esculentus, is grown largely in Istanbul as a demulcent. Another variety is also found in Martinique, the seeds of which have a more delicate scent.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Generally used as a stimulant and to ease indigestion, cramp and nervous dyspepsia. In Chinese medicine it is used to treat headache; in Egypt the seeds are used to sweeten the breath and are made into an emulsion with milk to be used for itch. The Arabs use the seeds to mix with coffee. Widely used as a domestic spice in the East.

ACTIONS: Antispasmodic, aphrodisiac, carminative, nervine, stimulant, stomachic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation of the seeds. Liquid ambrette seed oil should be allowed to age for several months before it is used. A concrete and absolute are also produced by solvent extraction.

CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellowy-red liquid with a rich, sweet floral-musky odour, very tenacious. It blends well with rose, neroli, sandalwood, clary sage, cypress, patchouli, oriental and ‘sophisticated’ bases.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Ambrettolide, ambrettolic acid, palmitic acid and farnesol.

SAFETY DATA: Available information indicates the oil to be non-toxic, non-irritant and non-sensitizing.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Circulation muscles and joints: Cramp, fatigue, muscular aches and pains, poor circulation.

Nervous System: Anxiety, depression, nervous tension and stress-related conditions.

OTHER USES: Employed by the cosmetic and perfumery industries in oriental-type scents and for the adulteration of musk; also used as a musk substitute. Used for flavouring alcoholic and soft drinks as well as some foodstuffs, especially confectionery.

AMYRIS... ambrette seed

Balsam, Tolu

Myroxylon balsamum var. balsamum

FAMILY: Fabaceae (Leguminosae)

SYNONYMS: Toluifera balsamum, Balsamum tolutanum, B. americanum, Myrospermum toluiferum, Thomas balsam, resin Tolu, opobalsam.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall, graceful tropical tree, similar in appearance to the Peru balsam tree. The balsam is a pathological product, obtained by making V-shaped incisions into the bark and sap wood, often after the trunk has been beaten and scorched. It is a ‘true’ balsam.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to South America, mainly Venezuela, Colombia and Cuba; also cultivated in the West Indies.

OTHER SPECIES: There are many types of South American balsam-yielding trees, such as the Peru balsam – see entry.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The balsam works primarily on the respiratory mucous membranes, and is good for chronic catarrh and non-inflammatory chest complaints, laryngitis and croup. It is still used as a flavour and mild expectorant in cough syrups and lozenges. As an ingredient in compound benzoin tincture and similar formulations, it is helpful in the treatment of cracked nipples, lips, cuts, bedsores, etc.

ACTIONS: Antitussive, antiseptic, balsamic, expectorant, stimulant.

EXTRACTION: The crude balsam is collected from the trees. It appears first in liquid form, then hardens and solidifies into an orange-brown brittle mass. An ‘essential oil’ is obtained from the crude by 1. steam distillation, or 2. dry distillation. (A resinoid and absolute are also produced for use primarily as fixatives.)

CHARACTERISTICS: 1. A pale yellow-brown liquid with a sweet-floral scent and peppery undertone. 2. An amber-coloured liquid with a rich balsamic-floral scent, which slowly solidfies on cooling into a crystalline mass. Tolu balsam blends well with mimosa, ylang ylang, sandalwood, labdanum, neroli, patchouli, cedarwood and oriental, spicy and floral bases.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: The balsam contains approx. 80 per cent resin, 20 per cent oil, with cinnamic and benzoic acids, small amounts of terpenes, and traces of eugenol and vanillin.

SAFETY DATA: Available information indicates it to be non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization, see Peru Balsam.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

SKIN CARE: Dry, chapped and cracked skin, eczema, rashes, scabies, sores, wounds.

RESPIRATORY SYSTEM: Bronchitis, catarrh, coughs, croup, laryngitis. ‘It may be used as an inhalant by putting about a teaspoon into a steam bath.’6

OTHER USES: As a fixative and fragrance component in colognes, cosmetics and perfumes (especially the dry distilled type). Some use in pharmaceutical preparations, e.g. cough syrups. Low levels used in many major food products, especially baked goods.... balsam, tolu

Cabreuva

Myrocarpus Fastigiatus

FAMILY: Fabaceae (Leguminosae)

SYNONYMS: Cabureicica, ‘Baume de Perou brun’.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A graceful, tall tropical tree, 12–15 metres high, with a very hard wood, extremely resistant to moisture and mould growth. It yields a balsam when the trunk is damaged, like many other South American trees.

DISTRIBUTION: Found in Brazil, Paraguay, Chile and north Argentina.

OTHER SPECIES: Many varieties of Myrocarpus yield cabreuva oil, such as M. frondosus. It is also botanically related to the trees which yield copaiba, Peru and Tolu balsam.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The wood is highly appreciated for carving and furniture making. It is used by the natives to heal wounds, ulcers and obviate scars. It was once listed in old European pharmocopoeias for its antiseptic qualities.

ACTIONS: Antiseptic, balsamic, cicatrisant.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from wood chippings (waste from the timber mills).

CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow, viscous liquid with a sweet, woody-floral scent, very delicate but having great tenacity. It blends well with rose, cassie, mimosa, cedarwood, rich woody and oriental bases.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly nerolidol (80 per cent approx.), farnesol, bisabolol, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin Care: Cuts, scars, wounds.

Respiratory System: Chills, coughs.

Immune System: Colds.

OTHER USES: Fragrance component and fixative in soaps and high-class perfumes, especially floral, woody or oriental types. Previously used for the isolation of nerolidol, now produced synthetically.... cabreuva

Cajeput

Melaleuca cajeputi

FAMILY: Myrtaceae

SYNONYMS: M. minor, cajuput, white tea tree, white wood, swamp tea tree, punk tree, paperbark tree.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall evergreen tree up to 30 metres high, with thick pointed leaves and white flowers. The flexible trunk has a whitish spongy bark which flakes off easily. In Malaysia it is called ‘caju-puti’, meaning ‘white wood’, due to the colour of the timber.

DISTRIBUTION: It grows wild in Malaysia, Indonesia, the Philippines, Vietnam, Java, Australia and south eastern Asia.

OTHER SPECIES: Several other varieties of Melaleuca are used to produce cajeput oil, such as M. quinquenervia – see Botanical Classification section. Closely related to other members of the Melaleuca group, notably eucalyptus, clove, niaouli and tea tree.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Held in high regard in the East, it is used locally for colds, headaches, throat infections, toothache, sore and aching muscles, fever (cholera), rheumatism and various skin diseases. Only the oil is used in the Western herbal tradition, known for producing a sensation of warmth and quickening the pulse. It is used for chronic laryngitis and bronchitis, cystitis, rheumatism and to expel roundworm.

ACTIONS: Mildly analgesic, antimicrobial, antineuralgic, antispasmodic, antiseptic (pulmonary, urinary, intestinal), anthelmintic, diaphoretic, carminative, expectorant, febrifuge, insecticide, sudorific, tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the fresh leaves and twigs.

CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellowy-green, mobile liquid (the green tinge derives from traces of copper found in the tree), with a penetrating, camphoraceous-medicinal odour. Compared with eucalyptus oil, it has a slightly milder fruity body note.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Cineol (14–65 per cent depending on source), terpineol, terpinyl acetate, pinene, nerolidol and other traces.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-sensitizing, may irritate the skin in high concentration.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin Care: Insect bites, oily skin, spots.

Circulation Muscles And Joints: Arthritis, muscular aches and pains, rheumatism.

Respiratory System: Asthma, bronchitis, catarrh, coughs, sinusitis, sore throat.

Genito-Urinary System: Cystitis, urethritis, urinary infection.

Immune System: Colds, ’flu, viral infections.

OTHER USES: Used in dentistry and pharmaceutical work as an antiseptic; in expectorant and tonic formulations, throat lozenges, gargles, etc. Used as a fragrance and freshening agent in soaps, cosmetics, detergents and perfumes. Occasionally employed as a flavour component in food products and soft drinks.... cajeput

Bergamot

Citrus bergamia

FAMILY: Rutaceae

SYNONYM: Citrus aurantium subsp. bergamia.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A small tree, about 4.5 metres high with smooth oval leaves, bearing small round fruit which ripen from green to yellow, much like a miniature orange in appearance.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to tropical Asia. Extensively cultivated in Calabria in southern Italy and also grown commercially on the Ivory Coast.

OTHER SPECIES: Not to be confused with the herb bergamot or bee balm (Monarda didyma).

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Named after the Italian city of Bergamo in Lombardy, where the oil was first sold. The oil has been used in Italian folk medicine for many years, primarily for fever (including malaria) and worms; it does not feature in the folk tradition of any other countries. However, due to recent research in Italy, bergamot oil is now known to have a wide spectrum of applications, being particularly useful for mouth, skin, respiratory and urinary tract infections.

ACTIONS: Analgesic, anthelmintic, antidepressant, antiseptic (pulmonary, genito-urinary), antispasmodic, antitoxic, carminative, digestive, diuretic, deodorant, febrifuge, laxative, parasiticide, rubefacient, stimulant, stomachic, tonic, vermifuge, vulnerary.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by cold expression of the peel of the nearly ripe fruit. (A rectified or terpeneless oil is produced by vacuum distillation or solvent extraction.)

CHARACTERISTICS: A light greenish-yellow liquid with a fresh sweet-fruity, slightly spicy-balsamic undertone. On ageing it turns a brownish-olive colour. It blends well with lavender, neroli, jasmine, cypress, geranium, lemon, chamomile, juniper, coriander and violet.

PRINCIPAL CONSTTTUENTS Known to have about 300 compounds present in the expressed oil: mainly linalyl acetate (30–60 per cent), linalol (11–22 per cent) and other alcohols, sesquiterpenes, terpenes, alkanes and furocoumarins (including bergapten, 0.30–0.39 per cent).

SAFETY DATA: Certain furocoumarins, notably bergapten, have been found to be phototoxic on human skin; that is, they cause sensitization and skin pigmentation when exposed to direct sunlight (in concentration and in dilution even after some time!). Extreme care must be taken when using the oil in dermal applications – otherwise a rectified or ‘bergapten-free’ oil should be substituted. Available information indicates it to be otherwise non-toxic and relatively non-irritant.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin Care: Acne, boils, cold sores, eczema, insect repellent and insect bites, oily complexion, psoriasis, scabies, spots, varicose ulcers, wounds.

Respiratory System: Halitosis, mouth infections, sore throat, tonsillitis.

Digestive System: Flatulence, loss of appetite.

Genito-URINARY SYSTEM: Cystitis, leucorrhoea, pruritis, thrush.

Immune System: Colds, fever, ’flu, infectious diseases.

Nervous System: Anxiety, depression and stress-related conditions, having a refreshing and uplifting quality.

OTHER USES: Extensively used as a fragrance and, to a degree, a fixative in cosmetics, toiletries, suntan lotions and perfumes – it is a classic ingredient of eau-de-cologne. Widely used in most major food categories and beverages, notably Earl Grey tea.... bergamot

Cananga

Cananga odorata

FAMILY: Annonaceae

SYNONYM: C. odoratum var. macrophylla.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall tropical tree, up to 30 metres high, which flowers all year round. It bears large, fragrant, tender yellow flowers which are virtually identical to those of the ylang ylang.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to tropical Asia: Java, Malaysia, the Philippines, the Moluccas.

OTHER SPECIES: Very closely related to the tree which produces ylang ylang oil, C. odorata var. genuina. Cananga is considered an inferior product in perfumery work; being grown in different regions the oil has a different quality, heavier and less delicate than ylang ylang. However, cananga is truly a ‘complete’ oil whereas ylang ylang is made into several distillates.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Used locally for infectious illnesses, for example malaria. The beautiful flowers are also used for decorative purposes at festivals.

ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antidepressant, aphrodisiac, hypotensive, nervine, sedative, tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by water distillation from the flowers.

CHARACTERISTICS: Greenish-yellow or orange viscous liquid with a sweet, floral balsamic tenacious scent. It blends well with calamus, birch tar, copaiba balsam, labdanum, neroli, oakmoss, jasmine, guaiacwood and oriental-type bases.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Caryophyllene, benzyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, farnesol, terpineol, borneol, geranyl acetate, safrol, linalol, limonrne, methyl salicylate and over 100 minor components.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization especially in those with sensitive skin.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin Care: Insect bites, fragrance, general skin care.

Nervous System: Anxiety, depression, nervous tension and stress-related complaints.

OTHER USES: Fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes, especially men’s fragrances. Limited use as a flavour ingredient in some food products, alcoholic and soft drinks.... cananga

Cardamon

Elettaria Cardamomum

FAMILY: Zingiberaceae

SYNONYMS: Elettaria cardomomum var. cardomomum, cardamom, cardamomi, cardamum, mysore cardamom.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A perennial, reed-like herb up to 4 metres high, with long, silky blade-shaped leaves. Its long sheathing stems bear small yellowish flowers with purple tips, followed by oblong red-brown seeds.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to tropical Asia, especially southern India; cultivated extensively in India, Sri Lanka, Laos, Guatemala and El Salvador. The oil is produced principally in India, Europe, Sri Lanka and Guatemala.

OTHER SPECIES: There are numerous related species found in the east, used as local spices and for medicinal purposes, such as round or Siam cardamon (Amomum cardamomum) found in India and China. An oil is also produced from wild cardamon (E. cardamomum var. major).

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Used extensively as a domestic spice, especially in India, Europe, Latin America and Middle Eastern countries. It has been used in traditional Chinese and Indian medicine for over 3000 years, especially for pulmonary disease, fever, digestive and urinary complaints. Hippocrates recommended it for sciatica, coughs, abdominal pains, spasms, nervous disorders, retention of urine and also for bites of venomous creatures. Current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for flatulent dyspepsia.

ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antispasmodic, aphrodisiac, carminative, cephalic, digestive, diuretic, sialogogue, stimulant, stomachic, tonic (nerve).

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam, distillation from the dried ripe fruit (seeds). An oleoresin is also produced in small quantities.

CHARACTERISTICS: A colourless to pale yellow liquid with a sweet-spicy, warming fragrance and a woody-balsamic undertone. It blends well with rose, olibanum, orange, bergamot, cinnamon, cloves, caraway, ylang ylang, labdanum, cedarwood, neroli and oriental bases in general.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Terpinyl acetate and cineol (each may be present at up to 50 per cent), limonene, sabinene, linalol, linalyl acetate, pinene, zingiberene, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Digestive System: Anorexia, colic, cramp, dyspepsia, flatulence, griping pains, halitosis heartburn, indigestion, vomiting.

Nervous System: Mental fatigue, nervous strain.

OTHER USES: Employed in some carminative, stomachic and laxative preparations; also in the form of compound cardamon spirit to flavour pharmaceuticals. Extensively used as a fragrance component in soaps, cosmetics and perfumes, especially oriental types. Important flavour ingredient, particularly in curry and spice products.... cardamon

Cedarwood, Atlas

Cedrus atlantica

FAMILY: Pinaceae

SYNONYMS: Atlantic cedar, Atlas cedar, African cedar, Moroccan cedarwood (oil), libanol (oil).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: Pyramid-shaped evergreen tree with a majestic stature, up to 40 metres high. The wood itself is hard and strongly aromatic, due to the high percentage of essential oil which it contains.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Atlas mountains of Algeria; the oil is mainly produced in Morocco.

OTHER SPECIES: Believed to have originated from the famous Lebanon cedars (C. libani), which grow wild in Lebanon and on the island of Cyprus. It is also a close botanical relation to the Himalayan deodar cedarwood (C. deodora), which produces a very similar essential oil. (NB the oil is quite different from the Texas or Virginia cedarwood.)

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The oil from the Lebanon cedar was possibly the first to be extracted, it was used by the ancient Egyptians for embalming purposes, cosmetics and perfumery. The oil was one of the ingredients of ‘mithridat’, a renowned poison antidote that was used for centuries. The Lebanon cedar was prized as a building wood; its odour repelled ants, moths and other harmful insects, as does the oil from the Atlas cedar.

Traditionally, the oil was used in the East for bronchial and urinary tract infections, as a preservative and as an incense. It is still used as a temple incense by the Tibetans, and is employed in their traditional medicine.

ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antiputrescent, antiseborrheic, aphrodisiac, astringent, diuretic, expectorant, fungicidal, mucolytic, sedative (nervous), stimulant (circulatory), tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the wood, stumps and sawdust. A resinoid and absolute are also produced in small quantities.

CHARACTERISTICS: A yellow, orange or deep amber viscous oil with a warm, camphoraceous top note and sweet tenacious, woody-balsamic undertone. It blends well with rosewood, bergamot, boronia, cypress, calamus, cassie, costus, jasmine, juniper, neroli, mimosa, labdanum, olibanum, clary sage, vetiver, rosemary, ylang ylang, oriental and floral bases.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Atlantone, caryophyllene, cedrol, cadinene, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing. Best avoided during pregnancy.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin Care: Acne, dandruff, dermatitis, eczema, fungal infections, greasy skin, hair loss, skin eruptions, ulcers.

Circulation Muscles And Joints: Arthritis, rheumatism.

Respiratory System: Bronchitis, catarrh, congestion, coughs.

Genito-Urinary System: Cystitis, leucorrhoea, pruritis.

Nervous System: Nervous tension and stress-related conditions.

OTHER USES: Fragrance component and fixative in cosmetics and household products, soaps, detergents, etc, as well as in perfumes, especially men’s fragrances.... cedarwood, atlas

Chamomile, German

Matricaria recutica

FAMILY: Asteraceae (Compositae)

SYNONYMS: M. chamomilla, camomile, blue chamomile, matricaria, Hungarian chamomile, sweet false chamomile, single chamomile, chamomile blue (oil).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An annual, strongly aromatic herb, up to 60 cms tall with a hairless, erect, branching stem. It has delicate feathery leaves and simple daisy-like white flowers on single stems. In appearance it is very similar to the corn chamomile (Anthemis arvensis) but can be distinguished from it because the latter is scentless.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to Europe and north and west Asia; naturalized in North America and Australia. It is cultivated extensively, especially in Hungary and eastern Europe, where the oil is produced. It is no longer grown in Germany, despite the herbal name.

OTHER SPECIES: There are many varieties of chamomile, such as the pineapple weed (Chamaemelium suaveolens) and the Roman chamomile (C. nobile), both of which are used to produce an essential oil.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: This herb has a long-standing medicinal tradition, especially in Europe for ‘all states of tension and the visceral symptoms that can arise therefrom, such as nervous dyspepsia and nervous bowel, tension headaches, and sleeplessness; especially useful for all children’s conditions, calming without depressing …’.

An excellent skin care remedy, it has many of the same qualities as Roman chamomile, except that its anti-inflammatory properties are greater due to the higher percentage of azulene.

ACTIONS: Analgesic, anti-allergenic, anti inflammatory, antiphlogistic, antispasmodic, bactericidal, carlminative, cicatrisant, cholagogue, digestive, emmenagogue, febrifuge, fungicidal, hepatic, nerve sedative, stimulant of leucocyte production, stomachic, sudorific, vermifuge, vulnerary.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the flower heads (up to 1.9 per cent yield). An absolute is also produced in small quantities, which is a deeper blue colour and has greater tenacity and fixative properties.

CHARACTERISTICS: An inky-blue viscous liquid with a strong, sweetish warm-herbaceous odour. It blends well with geranium, lavender, patchouli, rose, benzoin, neroli, bergamot, marjoram, lemon, ylang ylang, jasmine, clary sage and labdanum.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Chamazulene, farnesene, bisabolol oxide, en-yndicycloether, among others. (NB The chamazulene is not present in the fresh flower but is only produced during the process of distillation.)

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant; causes dermatitis in some individuals.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin Care: Acne, allergies, boils, burns, cuts, chilblains, dermatitis, earache, eczema, hair care, inflammations, insect bites, rashes, sensitive skin, teething pain, toothache, wounds.

Circulation Muscles And Joints: Arthritis, inflamed joints, muscular pain, neuralgia, rheumatism, sprains.

Digestive System: Dyspepsia, colic, indigestion, nausea.

Genito-Urinary System: Dysmenorrhoea, menopausal problems, menorrhagia.

Nervous System: Headache, insomnia, nervous tension, migraine and stress-related complaints.

OTHER USES: Used in pharmaceutical antiseptic ointments and in carminative, antispasmodic and tonic preparations. Extensively used in cosmetics, soaps, detergents, high-class perfumes and hair and bath products. Used as a flavour ingredient in most major food categories, including alcoholic and soft drinks.... chamomile, german

Chamomile, Roman

Chamaemelum nobile

FAMILY: Asteraceae (Compositae)

SYNONYMS: Anthemis nobilis, camomile, English chamomile, garden chamomile, sweet chamomile, true chamomile.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A small, stocky, perennial herb, up to 25 cms high, with a much branched hairy stem, half spreading or creeping. It has feathery pinnate leaves, daisy-like white flowers which are larger than those of the German chamomile. The whole plant has an applelike scent.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to southern and western Europe; naturalized in North America. Cultivated in England, Belgium, Hungary, United States, Italy and France.

OTHER SPECIES: There are a great many varieties of chamomile found throughout the world, four of which are native to the British Isles, but the only one of these used therapeutically is the Roman chamomile (C. nobile).

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: This herb has had a medical reputation in Europe and especially in the Mediterranean region for over 2000 years, and it is still in widespread use. It was employed by the ancient Egyptians and the Moors, and it was one of the Saxons’ nine sacred herbs, which they called ‘maythen’. It was also held to be the ‘plant’s physician’, since it promoted the health of plants nearby.

It is current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia for the treatment of dyspepsia, nausea, anorexia, vomiting in pregnancy, dysmenorrhoea and specifically flatulent dyspepsia associated with mental stress.

ACTIONS: Analgesic, anti-anaemic, antineuralgic, antiphlogistic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, bactericidal, carminative, cholagogue, cicatrisant, digestive, emmenagogue, febrifuge, hepatic, hypnotic, nerve sedative, stomachic, sudorific, tonic, vermifuge, vulnerary.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation of the flower heads.

CHARACTERISTICS: A pale blue liquid (turning yellow on keeping) with a warm, sweet, fruity-herbaceous scent. It blends well with bergamot, clary sage, oakmoss, jasmine, labdanum, neroli, rose, geranium and lavender.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly esters of angelic and tiglic acids (approx. 85 per cent), with pinene, farnesol, nerolidol, chamazulene, pinocarvone, cineol, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant; can cause dermatitis in some individuals.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE See German chamomile.

OTHER USES: See German chamomile.... chamomile, roman

Champaca

Michelia champaca

FAMILY: Magnoliaceae

SYNONYMS: M. aurantiaca, Magnolia champaca, joy perfume tree, champak, champac, champa, golden champaca.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: Champaca is a large, sub-tropical tree up to 6 metres high with a smooth grey bark and long, oval-shaped, glossy evergreen leaves. The flowers have 10–20 yellow, orange or cream-coloured narrow petals and an extremely heady fragrance. They bloom both in spring and autumn – on a warm, humid night, the scent can be enjoyed several hundred feet away! Champaca fruit are brown, containing bright red seeds.

DISTRIBUTION: Michelia champaca is native to India, where it occurs in humid, tropical evergreen forests. It is also found throughout Indo-China, Malaysia, Sumatra, Java and south-western China, as well as occurring naturally in the eastern Himalayan region. It is often grown as a boulevard tree in the tropics and in India is frequently planted in Hindu temple grounds and ornamental gardens. Champaca, especially its white-flowered hybrid, is now commonly cultivated in warm climates worldwide, for example, in California.

OTHER SPECIES: The genus Michelia contains about 40 species with a distribution including India, Malaysia, Indonesia, southern Japan, Taiwan and China. The leaves and flowers of the Michelia species resemble Magnolia, but the blossoms of Michelia generally form clusters among the leaves, rather than singly at the branch ends like Magnolia. There are several related species of M. champaca, such as the red champaca and the white champaca, grown specifically for their scented flowers, which are also used to produce essential oils. M. x alba, a white-flowered hybrid of M. champaca and M. montana, is prized throughout Asia for its fragrant, pure-white flowers, which are commonly floated in water bowls as Buddhist temple offerings and used a household decoration.

NB: Occasionally champaca is confused with champaca wood oil or guaiacwood oil (Bulnesia sarmienti), also known as palo santo (meaning ‘holy wood’), which is derived from an entirely different species native to South America.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Champaca is regarded as one of the most sacred trees of India and tropical Asia and has been revered by the people of India for thousands of years. M. champaca is sacred to Hindus and Buddhists alike and the flower is especially sacred to the Hindi god Vishnu, the god of love, and his consort Lakshmi. In India, the flowers are also used for adornment and their alluring scent is employed as a natural aphrodisiac, and as a fragrant decoration for bridal beds and for garlands.

All parts of the tree are considered medicinal and are utilized in various traditional remedies. In India, the scented oil infused from the champaca blossom is used for relief of vertigo and headaches. As a herbal remedy, the flowers have been used to treat urinary tract infections and as an emollient, febrifuge and to soothe anxiety. It is also considered a valuable aid for the treatment of all skin types, particularly mature, dry or sensitive skin. The derivation of the word ‘shampoo’ is the Hindi word champo, meaning ‘to massage’, which comes from champa, the Sanskrit name for champaca. This is because the oil from the tree was traditionally used to make fragrant hair and massage oils!

ACTIONS: Antidepressant, aphrodisiac, antispasmodic, antiseptic, antiviral, astringent, emollient, euphoric, emollient, febrifuge, stimulant and tonic.

EXTRACTION: The absolute is produced by solvent extraction from the fresh flowers. (An oil is also produced by steam distillation of the petals). The absolute requires thousands of fresh flowers to produce a tiny amount: thus its high cost.

CHARACTERISTICS: An intense, fresh, green-floral scent with an underlying warmth and subtle leafy notes. It blends well with jasmine, lemon, coriander, tuberose, grapefruit, bergamot, rose, ylang ylang, neroli, sandalwood and other floral scents

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Champaca absolute contains mainly linalool, benzyl acetate, beeta lonone, phenyl ethyl alcohol, gamma-selinene, benzyl benzoate, phenylethyl benzoate and eugenol.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization. Avoid during pregnancy.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE:

Skin Care: Dry, mature skin and sensitive skin, wrinkles and general skin care.

Nervous System: Anxiety, depression, fear, grief, insomnia, nervous debility, tension headaches, mood swings, stress.

OTHER USES: Champaca flowers are used (in part) to make the world’s most expensive perfume, Jean Patou’s famous scent, ‘Joy’, the second best selling perfume in the world after Chanel No. 5. The tree is also a source of timber and fuel and for the production of a yellow dye. The tree’s wood is used for making boats, drums, and religious engravings. In India, however, where the tree is revered, it is rarely cut down. ... champaca

Coriander

Coriandrum sativum

FAMILY: Apiaceae (Umbelliferae)

SYNONYMS: Coriander seed, Chinese parsley.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A strongly aromatic annual herb about 1 metre high with bright green delicate leaves, umbels of lacelike white flowers, followed by a mass of green (turning brown) round seeds.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to Europe and western Asia; naturalized in North America. Cultivated throughout the world, the oil is mainly produced in the USSR, Yugoslavia and Romania.

OTHER SPECIES: Various chemotypes of the same species are found according to geographical location.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: A herb with a long history of use the seeds were found in the ancient Egyptian tomb of Rameses 11. The seeds and leaves are widely used as a garnish and domestic spice, especially in curries. It has been used therapeutically, mainly in the form of an infusion for children’s diarrhoea, digestive upsets, griping pains, anorexia and flatulence.

In Chinese medicine the whole herb is used for dysentery, piles, measles, nausea, toothache and for painful hernia.

ACTIONS: Analgesic, aperitif, aphrodisiac, antioxidant, antirheumatic, antispasmodic, bactericidal, depurative, digestive, carminative, cytotoxic, fungicidal, larvicidal, lipolytic, revitalizing, stimulant (cardiac, circulatory, nervous system), stomachic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the crushed ripe seeds. (An essential oil is also produced by steam distillation from the fresh and dried leaves, which contains a high proportion of decylaldehyde.)

CHARACTERISTICS: A colourless to pale yellow liquid with a sweet, woody-spicy, slightly musky fragrance. It blends well with clary sage, bergamot, jasmine, olibanum, neroli, petitgrain, citronella, sandalwood, cypress, pine, ginger, cinnamon and other spice oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly linalol (55–75 per cent), decylaldehyde, borneol, geraniol, carvone, anethole, among others; constituents; vary according to source.

SAFETY DATA: Generally non-toxic, non irritant, non-sensitizing. Stupefying in large doses – use in moderation.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Circulation, Muscles And Joints:

Accumulation of fluids or toxins, arthritis, gout, muscular aches and pains, poor circulation, rheumatism, stiffness.

Digestive System: Anorexia, colic, diarrhoea, dyspepsia, flatulence, nausea, piles, spasm.

Immune System: Colds, ’flu, infections (general), measles.

Nervous System: Debility, migraine, neuralgia, nervous exhaustion.

OTHER USES: Used as a flavouring agent in pharmaceutical preparations, especially digestive remedies. Used as a fragrance component in soaps, toiletries and perfumes. Employed by the food industry especially in meat products and to flavour liqueurs such as Chartreuse and Benedictine; also used for flavouring tobacco.... coriander

Gardenia

Gardenia jasminoides

FAMILY: Rubiaceae

SYNONYMS: G. grandiflora, G. radicans, florida, gardinia, Cape jasmine, common gardenia.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION. A decorative bush, often grown for ornamental purposes, bearing fragrant white flowers.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Far East, India and China. Efforts to produce the oil commercially have been largely unsuccessful.

OTHER SPECIES: There are several varieties of gardenia depending on location, such as G. citriodora or G. calyculata found in Japan and Indonesia.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The flowers are used locally to flavour tea, much like jasmine.

ACTIONS: Antiseptic, aphrodisiac. Extraction an absolute (and concrete) by solvent extraction from the fresh flowers.

CHARACTERISTICS: A dark yellow, oily liquid with a sweet, rich, floral, jasmine-like scent. It blends well with ylang ylang, jasmine, tuberose, neroli, rose, spice and citrus oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly benzyl acetate, with phenyl acetate, linalol, linalyl acetate, terpineol and methyl anthranilate, among others – composition varies according to source.

SAFETY DATA: Safety data unavailable at present. Almost all gardenia oil is now synthetically produced.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE Perfume.

OTHER USES: Employed in high-class perfumery, especially oriental fragrances.... gardenia

Grapefruit

Citrus x paradisi

FAMILY: Rutaceae

SYNONYMS: C. racemosa, C. maxima var. racemosa, shaddock (oil).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A cultivated tree, often over 10 metres high with glossy leaves and large yellow fruits, believed to have derived from the shaddock (C. grandis).

DISTRIBUTION: Native to tropical Asia, and the West Indies; cultivated in California, Florida, Brazil and Israel. The oil is mainly produced in California.

OTHER SPECIES: C. paradisi is a recent hybrid of C. maxima and C. sinesis. There are many different cultivars; for example, ‘Duncan’ is standard in Florida.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: It shares the nutritional qualities of other citrus species, being high in Vitamin C and a valuable protection against infectious illness.

ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antitoxic, astringent, bactericidal, diuretic, depurative, stimulant (lymphatic, digestive), tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by cold expression from the fresh peel. (Some oil is distilled from the peel and remains of the fruit after the juice has been utilized, but this is of inferior quality.)

CHARACTERISTICS: A yellow or greenish mobile liquid with a fresh, sweet citrus aroma. It blends well with lemon, palmarosa, bergamot, neroli, rosemary, cypress, lavender, geranium, cardomon and other spice oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Limonene (90 per cent), cadinene, paradisiol, neral, geraniol, citronellal, sinensal, as well as esters, coumarins and furocoumarins.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic. It has a short shelf life – it oxidizes quickly.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

SKIN CARE: Acne, congested and oily skin, promotes hair growth, tones the skin and tissues.

Circulation Muscles And Joints: Cellulitis, exercise preparation, muscle fatigue, obesity, stiffness, water retention.

Immune System: Chills, colds, ’flu.

Nervous System: Depression, headaches, nervous exhaustion, performance stress.

OTHER USES: Employed as a fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. Extensively used in desserts, soft drinks and alcoholic beverages.... grapefruit

Frangipani

Plumeria rubra

FAMILY: Apocynaceae

SYNONYMS: P. acuminate, P. acutifolia, common frangipani, temple tree, pagoda tree, graveyard tree, temple flower, may flower, frangipane, plumeria, melia.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: Plumeria is a genus of 7–8 species native to tropical and subtropical Americas consisting mainly of deciduous shrubs and trees. P. rubra (and variation P. acutifolia) is the commonest frangipani species and has the most fragrant flowers. P. rubra is a small tree up to 5 metres tall with a ‘candelabrum’ shape, having a single trunk and branches that spread to form an open canopy. The deciduous pointed leaves, dark green on top and a lighter shade underneath, cluster at the tips of branches. The greyish-green, scaly bark produces a milky, sticky sap that is poisonous, much like oleander. The frangipani flowers which appear in clusters, each with five waxy petals, are most fragrant at night in order to lure moths to pollinate them. The species P. rubra comes in many colours: white, cream, yellow, orange, pink and red, usually with a contrasting centre.

DISTRIBUTION: P. rubra is native to tropical Central America, Venezuela, Brazil and Mexico, although it is now widely cultivated throughout the world in tropical and sub-tropical regions. In Hawaii it grows so abundantly that many people think that it is indigenous to the island. The frangipani tree is also very popular on the island of Bali, where it is planted in almost every village temple and, as in Hawaii, plays an important part in the local culture. Many countries have given a traditional name to this decorative aromatic species, such as ‘pagoda tree’ in India, ‘temple flower’ in Sri Lanka and ‘melia’ in Hawaii. In Indonesia, where the flower is associated with Balinese culture, it is known as ‘kamboja’. Now it has become naturalized throughout southern and southeastern Asia and can also commonly be found growing in the southern Mediterranean, for example in the Canary Islands.

OTHER SPECIES: P. rubra is the source of many Plumeria hybrid cultivars. In the past, the different flower colours of this plant were associated with distinct species but are now regarded as different forms of the same species. However, the white-flowered form of P. rubra is sometimes misidentified as P. alba, a rarely cultivated species endemic to the Lesser Antilles and Puerto Rico. Other popular species in the genus include P. obtusa or the evergreen frangipani (with leaves more rounded than those of P. rubra) and the white- or cream-flowered P. stenophylla which blooms heavily over a long period.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The genus Plumeria is attributed to Charles Plumier, a seventeenth-century French botanist who described several tropical species. The common name, ‘frangipani’, comes from the Italian nobleman, Marquis Frangipani, who created a perfume used to scent gloves in the sixteenth century. Frangipani is known as the ‘tree of life’, according to ancient Indian belief, and is associated with temples in both Hindu and Buddhist cultures. In India, the frangipani is considered to be a symbol of immortality because of its ability to produce leaves and flowers even after it has been lifted out of the soil. It is regarded as a sacred tree in Laos and every Buddhist temple in the country has frangipani planted in their courtyards. In Cambodia, the flowers are used in ritual offerings to the deities and Balinese Hindus use the flowers in their temple offerings daily. In several Pacific islands, such as Tahiti, Fiji, Samoa and Hawaii, Plumeria species are used for making leis, their traditional flower garlands. In modern Polynesian culture, the flowers are also worn by women to indicate their relationship status.

Frangipani has also been celebrated for centuries for its healing capacity in many diverse cultures. In Sri Lanka, Plumeria flowers are eaten as fritters, while the heart of the wood is taken as a vermifuge or as a laxative. In Ayurveda, the Plumeria species are widely used as a purgative, as a remedy for diarrhoea, to treat itch, asthma, coughs, bronchitis, blood disorders and fever. In the Guianas, P. rubra is used for the treatment of skin eruptions, abscesses, dysentery, herpes, coughs and as a purgative. In Caribbean cultures, the leaves are used as a healing wrap for bruises and ulcers while the latex is used as a liniment for rheumatism. In Vietnam, the bark mashed in alcohol, is used to combat skin inflammation, indigestion and high blood pressure. Frangipani flower tea is also generally believed to have a beneficial effect, being good for digestion.

ACTIONS: Anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, antimicrobial, antifungal, anti-tumoral, antiviral, aphrodisiac, astringent, nervine.

EXTRACTION: Frangipani absolute is obtained by alcoholic or solvent extraction from the concrete prepared from P. rubra (acutifolia). The absolute has a thick, treacle consistency at room temperature.

CHARACTERISTICS: The absolute has a heavy, sweet, floral-green aroma, with a soft-spicy background and hints of apricot. It blends with sandalwood, rose, patchouli, tuberose, clove bud, jasmine, neroli, bergamot, ginger, ylang ylang and most citrus oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: The oil of .P obtusa is rich in benzyl salicylate (45.4 per cent) and benzyl benzoate (17.2 per cent) Oil obtained from P.acuminata is rich in palmitic acid (36.2 per cent), linoleic acid (16.8 per cent), lauric acid (10.4 per cent) and myristic acid (10.3 per cent). ‘The pink flowered P. rubra oil was similar to P. acuminata oil in that it was also devoid of benzyl salicylate and benzyl benzoate and rich in alkanoic acids but linoleic acid was absent in the oil of the former. However, the orange-flowered P. rubra oil contained both the non-terpene esters (benzyl salicylate, benzyl benzoate and 2-phenylethyl benzoate) and alkanoic acids in significant amounts.’.

SAFETY DATA: Generally considered to be a safe oil, but best avoided in pregnancy and for children. May cause skin irritation in concentration.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin Care: Inflamed and sensitive skin, mature skin, wrinkles and general skin care.

Nervous System: Anxiety, depression, fear, insomnia, nervous debility and tension, mood swings, stress.

OTHER USES: Frangipani absolute is mainly used in the high-class perfumery due to its unique aroma and long-lasting qualities. It is also used in candle and soap making along with some phyto-cosmetic applications and various beauty and skin care products for defying the ageing process.... frangipani

Frankincense

Boswellia carteri

FAMILY: Burseraceae

SYNONYMS: Olibanum, gum thus.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A handsome small tree or shrub with abundant pinnate leaves and white or pale pink flowers. It yields a natural oleo gum resin which is collected by making incisions into the bark: at first, a milky-white liquid appears which then solidifies into tear-shaped amber to orange-brown lumps between the size of a pea and walnut.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Red Sea region; grows wild throughout north east Africa. The gum is mainly produced in Somalia, Ethiopia, China and south Arabia, then distilled in Europe and, to a lesser extent, India.

OTHER SPECIES: Other Boswellia species also yield olibanum gum, such as the Indian variety B. serrata. Constituents vary according to type and locality. See also Botanical Classification section.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Used since antiquity as an incense in India, China and in the west by the Catholic Church. In ancient Egypt it was used in rejuvenating face masks, cosmetics and perfumes. It has been used medicinally in the east and west for a wide range of conditions including syphilis, rheumatism, respiratory and urinary tract infections, skin diseases, as well as digestive and nervous complaints.

ACTIONS: Anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, astringent, carminative, cicatrisant, cytophylactic, digestive, diuretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, sedative, tonic, uterine, vulnerary.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from selected oleo gum resin (approx. 3–10 per cent oil to 60–70 per cent resin). An absolute is also produced, for use mainly as a fixative.

CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow or greenish mobile liquid with a fresh, terpeney top note and a warm, rich, sweet-balsamic undertone. It blends well with sandalwood, pine, vetiver, geranium, lavender, mimosa, neroli, orange, bergamot, camphor, basil, pepper, cinnamon and other spices. It modifies the sweetness of citrus blends in an intriguing way.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly monoterpene hydrocarbons, notably pinene, dipentene, limonene, thujene, phellandrene, cymene, myrcene, terpinene; also octyl acetate, octanol, incensole, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin Care: Blemishes, dry and mature complexions, scars, wounds, wrinkles.

Respiratory System: Asthma, bronchitis, catarrh, coughs, laryngitis.

Genito-Urinary System: Cystitis, dysmenorrhoea, leucorrhoea, metrorrhagia.

Immune System: Colds, ’flu.

Nervous System: Anxiety, nervous tension and stress-related conditions – ‘Frankincense has, among its physical properties, the ability to slow down and deepen the breath … which is very conducive to prayer and meditation.’.

OTHER USES: The gum and oil are used as fixatives and fragrance components in soaps, cosmetics and perfumes, especially oriental, spice and men’s fragrances. Employed in some pharmaceuticals such as liniments and throat pastilles. Extensively used in the manufacture of incense. The oil is used in minute amounts in some foods (such as meat products), alcoholic and soft drinks.... frankincense

Guaiacwood

Bulnesia sarmienti

FAMILY: Zygophyllaceae

SYNONYMS: Champaca wood (oil), ‘palo santo’.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A small, wild tropical tree up to 4 metres high, with a decorative hard wood.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to South America, especially Paraguay and Argentina. Some oil is distilled in Europe and the USA.

OTHER SPECIES: Distinct from guaiac gum and guaiac resin, known as guaiacum, obtained from related trees Guaiacum officinale and G. sanctum. However, they are somewhat similar products and share common properties.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The wood is much used for ornamental carving. It was formerly used for treating rheumatism and gout; guaiacum is still current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for rheumatism and rheumatoid arthritis. Valnet includes guaiacum in his ‘elixirs’ for gout, venereal disease and in mouthwashes.

ACTIONS: Anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, antirheumatic, antiseptic, diaphoretic, diuretic, laxative.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the broken wood and sawdust.

CHARACTERISTICS: A yellow, amber or greenish, soft or semi-solid mass with a pleasant, tearose type fragrance and sometimes an unpleasant smoky undertone. It blends well with geranium, neroli, oakmoss, rose, costus, sandalwood, amyris, spice and woody-floral bases.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Guaiol (42–72 per cent), bulnesol, bulnesene, guaiene, patchoulene, guaioxide, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Circulationl muscles and joints: Arthritis, gout, rheumatoid arthritis.

OTHER USES: The fluid extract and tincture are used in pharmacology, mainly as a diagnostic reagent in blood tests. Used as a fixative and fragrance component in soaps, cosmetics and perfumes.... guaiacwood

Geranium

Pelargonium graveolens

FAMILY: Geraniaceae

SYNONYMS: Rose geranium, pelargonium.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A perennial hairy shrub up to 1 metre high with pointed leaves, serrated at the edges and small pink flowers. The whole plant is aromatic.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to South Africa; widely cultivated in Russia, Egypt, Congo, Japan, Central America and Europe (Spain, Italy and France). With regard to essential oil production, there are three main regions: Reunion (Bourbon), Egypt and Russia (also China).

OTHER SPECIES: There are over 700 varieties of cultivated geranium and pelargonium, many of which are grown for ornamental purposes. There are several oil-producing species such as P. odorantissimum and P. radens, but P. graveolens is the main one commercially cultivated for its oil. Geranium Bourbon (P. Roseum) has a superior fragrance to other species, having a rich rosy-fruity scent due to the higher levels of linalook and iso-methone content. See also Botanical Classification section.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The British plant herb robert (Geranium robertianum) and the American cranesbill (G. maculatum) are the most widely used types in herbal medicine today, having been used since antiquity. They have many properties in common with the rose geranium, being used for conditions such as dysentery, haemorrhoids, inflammations, metrorrhagia and menorrhagia (excessive blood loss during menstruation). The root and herb of cranesbill is specifically indicated in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia for diarrhoea and peptic ulcer.

ACTIONS: Antidepressant, antihaemorrhagic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, astringent, cicatrisant, deodorant, diuretic, fungicidal, haemostatic, stimulant (adrenal cortex), styptic, tonic, vermifuge, vulnerary.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the leaves, stalks and flowers. An absolute and concrete are also produced in Morocco.

CHARACTERISTICS: The Bourbon oil is a greenish-olive liquid with a green, rosy-sweet, minty scent. The Bourbon oil is generally preferred in perfumery work; it blends well with lavender, patchouli, clove, rose, sandalwood, jasmine, juniper, neroli, bergamot and other citrus oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Citronellol, geraniol, linalol, isomenthone, menthane, phellandrene, sabinene, limonene, among others. Constituents vary according to type and source.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, generally non-sensitizing; possible contact dermatitis in hypersensitive individuals, especially with the Bourbon type.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin Care: Acne, bruises, broken capillaries, burns, congested skin, cuts, dermatitis, eczema, haemorrhoids, lice, oily complexion, mature skin, mosquito repellent, ringworm, ulcers, wounds.

Circulation Muscles And Joints: Cellulitis, engorgement of breasts, oedema, poor circulation.

Respiratory System: Sore throat, tonsillitis.

Genito-Urinary And Endocrine Systems: Adrenocortical glands and menopausal problems, PMT.

Nervous System: Nervous tension, neuralgia and stress-related conditions.

OTHER USES: Used as a fragrance component in all kinds of cosmetic products: soaps, creams, perfumes, etc. Extensively employed as a flavouring agent in most major food categories, alcoholic and soft drinks.... geranium

Hyacinth

Hyacinthus orientalis

FAMILY: Liliaceae

SYNONYMS: Scilla nutans, bluebell.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A much loved cultivated plant with fragrant, bell-shaped flowers of many colours, bright lance-shaped leaves and a round bulb.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to Asia Minor, said to be of Syrian origin. Cultivated mainly in Holland and southern France.

OTHER SPECIES: Closely related to garlic (Allium sativum), onion (A. cepa) and the wild bluebell (H. non scriptus). At one time bluebell essential oil was produced at Grasse in the south of France, which had a fresher and more flowery fragrance.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The wild bluebell bulbs are poisonous; however, the white juice used to be employed as a substitute for starch or glue. ‘The roots, dried and powdered, are balsamic, having some styptic properties that have not fully been investigated.’.

ACTIONS: Antiseptic, balsamic, hypnotic, sedative, styptic.

EXTRACTION: Concrete and absolute by solvent extraction from the flowers. (An essential oil is also obtained by steam distillation from the absolute.)

CHARACTERISTICS: A reddish or greeny brown viscous liquid with a sweet-green, floral fragrance and soft floral undertone. It blends well with narcissus, violet, ylang ylang, styrax, galbanum, jasmine, neroli and with oriental-type bases.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Phenylethyl alcohol, benzaldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid, benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, eugenol, methyl eugenol and hydroquinone, among others.

SAFETY DATA: No safety data available at present. Most commercial hyacinth is nowadays adulterated or synthetic.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE NERVOUS SYSTEM: The Greeks described the fragrance of hyacinth as being refreshing and invigorating to a tired mind. It may also be used for stress-related conditions, ‘in self-hypnosis techniques … and developing the creative right-hand side of the brain’..

OTHER USES: Used in high class perfumery, especially oriental floral types.... hyacinth

Ginger

Zingiber officinale

FAMILY: Zingiberaceae

SYNONYMS: Common ginger, Jamaica ginger.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An erect perennial herb up to 1 metre high with a thick, spreading, tuberous rhizome root, which is very pungent. Each year it sends up a green reedlike stalk with narrow spear-shaped leaves and white or yellow flowers on a spike direct from the root.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to southern Asia, extensively cultivated all over the tropics in Nigeria, the West Indies, India, China, Jamaica and Japan. Most oil is distilled in the UK, China and India.

OTHER SPECIES: Several varieties according to location which are all used to produce oils with slight variations in their constitiuents; for example the African oil is generally darker. Another member of the same family, galangal (Alpinia officinarum), is also known as ginger root or Chinese ginger.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Ginger has been used as a domestic spice and as a remedy for thousands of years, especially in the East. Fresh ginger is used in China for many complaints including rheumatism, bacterial dysentery, toothache, malaria, and for cold and moist conditions such as excess mucus and diarrhoea.

It is best known as a digestive aid, especially in the West: in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia it is specifically indicated for flatulent intestinal colic. Preserved and crystallized ginger is a popular sweet, in the East and West.

ACTIONS: Analgesic, anti-oxidant, antiseptic, antispasmodic, antitussive, aperitif, aphrodisiac, bactericidal, carminative, cephalic, diaphoretic, expectorant, febrifuge, laxative, rubefacient, stimulant, stomachic, tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the unpeeled, dried, ground root. (An absolute and oleoresin are also produced for use in perfumery.)

CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow, amber or greenish liquid with a warm, slightly green, fresh, woody-spicy scent. It blends well with sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, frankincense, rosewood, cedarwood, coriander, rose, lime, neroli, orange and other citrus oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Gingerin, gingenol, gingerone, zingiberine, linalol, camphene, phellandrene, citral, cineol, borneol, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant (except in high concentration), slightly phototoxic; may cause sensitization in some individuals.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Circulation Muscles And Joints: Arthritis, fatigue, muscular aches and pains, poor circulation, rheumatism, sprains, strains etc.

Respiratory System: Catarrh, congestion, coughs, sinusitis, sore throat.

Digestive System: Diarrhoea, colic, cramp, flatulence, indigestion, loss of appitite, nausea, travel sickness.

Immune System: Chills, colds, ’flu, fever, infectious disease.

Nervous System: Debility, nervous exhaustion.

OTHER USES: The oleoresin is used in digestive, carminative and laxative preparations; used as a fragrance component in cosmetics and perfumes, especially oriental and men’s fragrances; extensively employed in all major food categories, alcoholic and soft drinks.... ginger

Lime

Citrus aurantifolia

FAMILY: Rutaceae

SYNONYMS: C. medica var. acida, C. latifolia, Mexican lime, West Indian lime, sour lime.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A small evergreen tree up to 4.5 metres high, with stiff sharp spines, smooth ovate leaves and small white flowers. The bitter fruit is a pale green colour, about half the size of a lemon.

DISTRIBUTION: Probably native to south Asia; naturalized in many tropical and subtropical regions of the world. It is cultivated mainly in south Florida, the West Indies (Cuba), Central America (Mexico) and Italy.

OTHER SPECIES: There are several species of lime such as the Italian lime (C. limetta) which is used to produce an oil called ‘limette’; and the leech-lime (C. hystrix) which is occasionally used to produce an essential oil called combava.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The fruit is often used indiscriminately in place of lemon with which it shares many qualities. It is used for similar purposes including fever, infections, sore throat, colds, etc. It used to be used as a remedy for dyspepsia with glycerin of pepsin.

ACTIONS: Antirheumatic, antiscorbutic, antiseptic, antiviral, aperitif, bactericidal, febrifuge, restorative, tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by 1. cold expression of the peel of the unripe fruit; the expressed oil is preferred in perfumery work, and 2. steam distillation of the whole ripe crushed fruit (a by-product of the juice industry).

CHARACTERISTICS: 1. A pale yellow or olive-green liquid with a fresh, sweet, citrus-peel odour. 2. A water-white or pale yellow liquid with a fresh, sharp, fruity-citrus scent. It blends well with neroli, citronella, lavender, lavandin, rosemary, clary sage and other citrus oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Limonene, pinenes, camphene, sabinene, citral, cymene, cineols and linalol, among others. The expressed ‘peel’ oil, but not the ‘whole fruit’ oil, also contains coumarins.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, nonsensitizing. However, the expressed ‘peel’ oil is phototoxic (but not the steam-distilled ‘whole fruit’ oil).

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE See lemon.

OTHER USES: Both oils, but mainly the expressed, are used as fragrance components in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. Mainly the distilled oil, but also the terpeneless oil, is used by the food industry, especially in soft drinks – ‘lemon and lime’ flavour. The juice is used for the production of citric acid.... lime

Ho Wood

Cinnamomum camphora ct linalol

FAMILY: Lauraceae

SYNOYNMS Ho oil, ho-wood il, shiu oil, ho-leaf oil.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall, tropical evergreen tree, quite dense with small white flowers and black berries, which grows up to 30 metres in height. This is the same tree that produces camphor comes from the wood of the tree.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to China, Japan, Taiwan and south-east Asia. It is now cultivated in many tropical and sub-tropical countries including India, Australia, Madagascar and parts of the USA where it has naturalized.

OTHER SPECIES: Cinnamomum camphora is a large genus with many subspecies which yield a volatile oil on distillation, including ho oil (wood and leaf), camphor, apopin, sassafras and ravintsara. All these essential oils, although derived from the same principal botanical species, differ in their chemical profile enormously depending on their country of origin as well as the part of the plant used to extract the oil. There are thus many different subvarieties of the camphor tree found throughout Asia, for example the Yu-sho in China and the Sho-guy variety found in Taiwan. Ho (wood and leaf) oil is derived both from the Hon-sho and Ho-sho varieties growing mainly in Japan and Taiwan. This variety has linalool as its major constituent.

Rosewood (Aniba rosaedora), a native tree of the Amazon, also yields an oil very rich in linalool. However, rosewood became endangered due to over-harvesting and although plantations have since been planted, it will take time for the trees to mature. Rosewood oil and ho wood oil are very similar in nature, and since ho wood is more renewable, it is increasingly used as a replacement for the former. However, ho leaf oil, distilled from the leaves of C. camphora, is gradually beginning to replace ho wood oil in aromatherapy usage, because its scent is smoother, containing hardly any camphor-like notes.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Ho wood has traditionally been used for making the handles of Japanese swords and knives because it is soft and will not scratch the blades. It is also used nowadays for ornamental parts of houses, carpentry and cabinet making, as it is of a very similar beauty to rosewood. Ho wood oil became very popular in Taiwan during the 1900s as a linalool-rich product, locally referred to as shiu oil. C. camphora was also heavily exploited as a source of camphor in Japan and Taiwan until World War II.

The high ‘linalool’ content makes Ho oil a potent immune system stimulant (good for infections such as cold or ’flu) as well as a powerful relaxant or sedative … soothing yet uplifting in effect. Recent studies also suggest that the oil may play a role as a cellular stimulant and tissue regenerator, being beneficial for complaints associated with the skin.

ACTIONS: Analgesic, anti-fungal, anti-infectious, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, antiseptic, antispasmodic, bactericidal, immune support, sedative, tonic. It is also believed to be a mild aphrodisiac.

EXTRACTION: Steam distilled from the leaves (ho leaf oil) and wood (ho wood oil)

CHARACTERISTICS: Ho wood oil is a pale yellow liquid with a soft, warm, floral, spicy-woody scent with a slightly camphor-like undertone. The leaf oil has a sweet-fresh, green-floral and woody scent. It blends well with basil, bergamot, cedarwood, chamomile, lavender, lime, geranium, juniper, neroli, petitgrain, myrtle, sandalwood, ylang ylang and spice oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Ho (wood and leaf) oil contains up to 99 per cent linalool, with traces of limonene, myrcene, gamma-terpinene and other components. Ho wood oil generally contains higher levels of cineol. Japanese ho oil ‘A’ quality has a linalool content of 94 per cent or more; a ‘B’ grade has 85–90 per cent linalool.

SAFETY DATA: It is non-toxic and non-irritant but with possible sensitization in some individuals.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin Care: Acne, cuts, dermatitis, stretch marks, scars, wounds & general skin care: dry, oily, mature and sensitive skin.

Circulation Muscles And Joints: Aches and pains caused by inflammation.

Respiratory System: Chills, coughs and colds, ’flu.

Immune System: Low libido and frigidity: boosts vitality.

Nervous System: Anxiety, depression, insomnia, nervous tension, stress.

OTHER USES: The use of C. camphora as a source of ho leaf and wood oil has expanded in recent years and it is now an important source of natural linalool (which is still preferred over the synthetic form) for some fragrance applications in the perfumery industry. Indeed, ho leaf and wood oil has largely displaced the use of rosewood as a source of natural linalool. It is also an effective insect repellent.... ho wood

Lemon

Citrus limon

FAMILY: Rutaceae

SYNONYMS: C. limonum, cedro oil.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A small evergreen tree up to 6 metres high with serrated oval leaves, stiff thorns and very fragrant flowers. The fruit turns from green to yellow on ripening.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to Asia, probably east India; it now grows wild in the Mediterranean region especially in Spain and Portugal. It is cultivated extensively worldwide in Italy, Sicily, Cyprus, Guinea, Israel, South and North America (California and Florida).

OTHER SPECIES: There are about forty-seven varieties which are said to have been developed in cultivation, such as the Java lemon (C. javanica). The lemon is also closely related to the lime, cedrat (or citron) and bergamot.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The juice and peel are widely used as a domestic seasoning. It is very nutritious, being high in vitamins A, B and C. In Spain and other European countries, lemon is something of a ‘cure-all’, especially with regard to infectious illness. It was used for fever, such as malaria and typhoid, and employed specifically for scurvy on English ships at sea.

Taken internally, the juice is considered invaluable for acidic disorders, such as arthritis and rheumatism, and of great benefit in dysentery and liver congestion.

ACTIONS: Anti-anaemic, antimicrobial, antirheumatic, antisclerotic, antiscorbutic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, antitoxic, astringent, bactericidal, carminative, cicatrisant, depurative, diaphoretic, diuretic, febrifuge, haemostatic, hypotensive, insecticidal, rubefacient, stimulates white corpuscles, tonic, vermifuge.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by cold expression from the outer part of the fresh peel. A terpeneless oil is also produced on a large scale (cedro oil).

CHARACTERISTICS: A pale greeny-yellow liquid (turning brown with age), with a light, fresh, citrus scent. It blends well with lavender, neroli, ylang ylang, rose, sandalwood, olibanum, chamomile, benzoin, fennel, geranium, eucalyptus, juniper, oakmoss, lavandin, elemi, labdanum and other citrus oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Limonene (approx. 70 per cent), terpinene, pinenes, sabinene, myrcene, citral, linalol, geraniol, octanol, nonanol, citronellal, bergamotene, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic; may cause dermal irritation or sensitization reactions in some individuals – apply in moderation. Phototoxic do not use on skin exposed to direct sunlight.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Acne, anaemia, brittle nails, boils, chilblains, corns, cuts, greasy skin, herpes, insect bites, mouth ulcers, spots, varicose veins, warts.

Circulation muscles and joints: Arthritis, cellulitis, high blood pressure, nosebleeds, obesity (congestion), poor circulation, rheumatism.

Respiratory system: Asthma, throat infections, bronchitis, catarrh.

Digestive system: Dyspepsia.

Immune system: Colds, ’flu, fever and infections.

OTHER USES: Used as a flavouring agent in pharmaceuticals. Extensively used as a fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics, toilet waters and perfumes. Extensively employed by the food industry in most types of product, including alcoholic and soft drinks.... lemon

Mandarin

Citrus reticulata

FAMILY: Rutaceae

SYNONYMS: C. nobilis, C. madurensis, C. unshiu, C. deliciosa, European mandarin, true mandarin, tangerine, satsuma.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A small evergreen tree up to 6 metres high with glossy leaves, fragrant flowers and bearing fleshy fruit. The tangerine is larger than the mandarin and rounder, with a yellower skin, more like the original Chinese type.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to southern China and the Far East. Brought to Europe in 1805 and to America forty years later, where it was renamed the tangerine. The mandarin is produced mainly in Italy, Spain, Algeria, Cyprus, Greece, the Middle East and Brazil; the tangerine in Texas, Florida, California and Guinea.

OTHER SPECIES: There are many cultivars within this species: the terms tangerine (C. reticulata) and mandarin are used somewhat interchangeably, as is the word satsuma. They could be said to represent different chemotypes since the oils are quite different; see the Botanical Classification section.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The name comes from the fruit which was a traditional gift to the Mandarins of China. In France it is regarded as a safe children’s remedy for indigestion, hiccoughs, etc, and also for the elderly since it helps strengthen the digestive function and liver.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by cold expression from the outer peel. A mandarin petitgrain oil is also produced in small quantities by steam distillation from the leaves and twigs.

CHARACTERISTICS: Mandarin oil is a yellowy-orange mobile liquid with a blue-violet hint, having an intensely sweet, almost floral citrus scent. It blends well with other citrus oils, especially neroli, and spice oils such as nutmeg, cinnamon and clove. Tangerine oil is an orange mobile liquid with a fresh, sweet, orangelike aroma. It has less body than mandarin and is little used in perfumery work.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Limonene, methyl methylanthranilate, geraniol, citral, citronella!, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, nonsensitizing. Possibly phototoxic, although it has not been demonstrated decisively.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Acne, congested and oily skin, scars, spots, stretch marks, toner.

Circulation muscles and joints: Fluid retention, obesity.

Digestive system: Digestive problems, dyspepsia, hiccoughs, intestinal problems.

Nervous system: Insomnia, nervous tension, restlessness. It is often used for children and pregnant women and is recommended in synergistic combinations with other citrus oils.

OTHER USES: Mandarin oil is used in soaps, cosmetics and perfumes, especially colognes. It is employed as a flavouring agent especially in sweets, soft drinks and liqueurs.... mandarin

Lotus

Nelumbo nucifera

FAMILY: Nelumbonaceae (Nymphaeaceae)

SYNONYMS: N. komarovii, N. nucifera var. macrorhizomata, Nelumbium speciosum, Nymphaea nelumbo, Indian lotus, sacred lotus, pink lotus, bean of India, kamala and padma (Sanskrit).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: The sacred lotus is a perennial aquatic plant with rhizomes that grow in the mud at the bottom of shallow ponds, lakes and marshes. Its large leaves, which rise above the water surface, can be up to 60 cm in diameter, with a 3-metre horizontal spread, while the showy flowers can be up to 20 cm in diameter. The beautiful pink, fragrant flowers are solitary, borne at or above the leaf level, with a brilliant yellow centre and white sepals. The fruits form a conical pod, with seeds contained in holes in the pod.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to Greater India, the sacred lotus now occurs in the wild in warm-temperate to tropical regions throughout Asia, the Middle East and tropical Australia. It is common in China, Japan, Iran, Bhutan, India, Indonesia (Java), Korea, Malaysia, Nepal, New Guinea, Pakistan, Philippines, Russia (Far East), Sri Lanka, Thailand, Vietnam and north-west Australia. Introduced to Europe in 1787 as a ‘stove house water lily’ by Joseph Banks, today it is cultivated as an ornamental plant worldwide.

OTHER SPECIES: The family Nelumbonaceae has two important genera having aquatic species with attractive flowers i.e. the lotus, Nelumbo and water lily, Nymphea. The genus Nelumbo has only two species, N. nucifera (Indian or sacred lotus) and N. lutea (American lotus or yellow lotus).

The Egyptian blue lotus (Nymphaea caerulea) and the white sacred lotus of Egypt (Nymphaea lotus) are both members of the water lily family. These water lilies are indigenous to Egypt and their flowers are often depicted in Egypt’s ancient art. Remains of both blue and white water lily petals were found in the burial tomb of Ramesses II and sprinkled on the mummified body of Tutankhamun. The blue lotus is also mentioned in numerous Egyptian historical texts, mainly for its aphrodisiac, narcotic and euphoric properties. Both species are still cultivated in Egypt as well as in India and Indonesia today and are both used to produce absolutes, although these are rare and costly. Egyptians refer to both these flowers as ‘lotus’ so these two species are often confused with the ‘true’ lotus species.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Nelumbo nucifera has been in cultivation for more than 3,000 years, and has been grown not only for its cultural and ornamental value, but also for medicinal uses and for its edible seeds and rhizomes. In China, Japan and India, for example, the rhizomes are roasted, pickled, candied or sliced and fried as chips. A paste made from the nutlets is used as a filling in mooncakes (traditional Chinese pastries). The young leaves, leaf stalks and flowers are eaten as vegetables in India. The petals of the flower are used as a wrap for foods in Asia and the rhizome is a common ingredient in soups and stir-fries.

The sacred lotus has also been used as a medicinal herb for generations in Asia and its uses in contemporary medicine are virtually unchanged. Many parts of the plant are used: the leaf juices are used for diarrhoea and sunstroke when mixed with licorice; the flower is used for abdominal cramps, bloody discharges, bleeding gastric ulcers, excessive menstruation and post-partum haemorrhage; the flower stamens are used in urinary frequency, premature ejaculation and uterine bleeding; the fruit is used for agitation and fever; the seed has been shown to lower cholesterol levels and to relax the smooth muscle of the uterus and is used for poor digestion, chronic diarrhoea, insomnia, and palpitations. Various parts of the flower, including the petals are used for diarrhoea, cholera, liver conditions, bronchitis, skin eruptions, snake bites, and scorpion stings. The dried flowers are prepared into a syrup to treat coughs and the stamens are dried and made into a fragrant herbal tea. Practitioners of Ayurvedic medicine use lotus flowers for their soothing, cooling properties and they are often employed in skin care to improve the complexion. Oils from the lotus flower are said to have a calming influence on those suffering from fear, anxiety, insomnia or tremors, according to the principles of Ayurveda. A recent study has shown that oil extracted from the lotus flower might be effective in preventing greying hair.

Several bioactive compounds have been derived from these various plant parts belonging to different chemical groups, including alkaloids, flavonoids and glycosides which all have their own therapeutic impact. Both Nelumbo nucifera and Nymphaea caerulea contain the alkaloids nuciferine and aporphine, which have a sedative effect; studies using isolated neferine (found only in N. nucifera), indicates it has potent antidepressant and sedative properties. Sacred lotus is also nutritious, containing vitamins B and C, protein, fat, carbohydrate, starch, moisture, sucrose, calcium, phosphorus, iron and ascorbic acid.

The lotus is of great significance to many Asian cultures, and in particular to the Eastern religions. From ancestral times, the idea of enlightenment has been symbolized by the life cycle of the sacred lotus plant, whose life starts humbly in the mud yet eventually produces exquisite, untainted flowers, showing the path of spiritual enfoldment. Thus the sacred lotus has a deep ritual meaning to Hindus and Buddhists alike, to whom the lotus flower symbolizes beauty, purity and divinity. Most deities of Asian religions are depicted as seated on a lotus flower. In Buddhist temples, lotus is burned in powdered form as ceremonial incense and the flowers are given as a sacred offering in many Eastern temples. A thread made from the leaf stalks is used for making oil-wicks for lamps in temples. Cloth woven from this yarn is believed to cure many ailments and is used to make Buddhist robes; lotus seeds are also used to make malas (strings of prayer beads). The sacred lotus is the national flower of India and Vietnam.

ACTIONS: Antibacterial, antimicrobial, antidepressant, anti-oxidant, refrigerant, rejuvenating, sedative, tonic (heart, immune system, nervous system), vasodilator.

EXTRACTION: An absolute by solvent extraction from fresh flowers. The CO2 extraction process achieves a cleaner end product that is true to the oil and is thicker than other extraction methods. This product is often adulterated or blended with other oils (see other uses).

CHARACTERISTICS: A viscous liquid with an intense rich, sweet-floral scent and a spicy-leathery undertone. It blends well with tuberose, jasmine, neroli, rose, gardenia and spice oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: The absolute (and oil) was found to be comprised mainly of palmitic acid methyl ester (22.66 per cent), linoleic acid methyl ester (11.16 per cent), palmitoleic acid methyl ester (7.55 per cent) and linolenic acid methyl ester (5.16 per cent) with myristic acid and oleic acid.

SAFETY DATA: Generally considered a safe oil.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Damaged, sensitive and mature skin: to improve the condition of uneven or tired looking skin as it helps regulate, soothe, illuminate and rejuvenate the tissue.

Immune system: Weak immunity.

Nervous system: Anxiety, depression, fear, insomnia, nervous debility and tension, mood swings, poor libido, stress.

OTHER USES: Lotus flower oil and absolute are used in perfumery in high-class floral compositions, such as ‘White Lotus’ by Kenzo and in cosmetics. However, the ‘lotus’ perfume component commonly available in the trade is actually a blend of patchouli, benzoin and styrax with phenylethyl and cinnamic alcohols.... lotus

Narcissus

Narcissus poeticus

FAMILY: Amaryllidaceae

SYNONYMS: Pinkster lily, pheasant’s eye, poet’s narcissus.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A familiar garden flower up to 50 cms high, with long sword-shaped leaves with very fragrant white flowers having a short yellow trumpet and crisped red edge.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Middle East or the eastern Mediterranean region; naturalized in southern France. It is cultivated extensively for its flowers. Only Holland and the Grasse region of France produce the concrete and absolute.

OTHER SPECIES: There are two main types produced in France: the cultivated or des plaines variety and the wild or des montagnes type. Narcissus is also closely related to the jonquil (N. jonquilla) and campernella (N. odorus), which are also occasionally used to produce an absolute, as well as to the daffodil (N. pseudo-narcissus).

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The name derives from the Greek narkao – to be numb – due to its narcotic properties. The Roman perfumers used ‘narcissum’, a solid unguent made from narcissus flowers, in the preparation of their elaborate fragrances. In France the flowers were used at one time for their antispasmodic properties, said to be useful in hysteria and epilepsy.

In India the oil is applied to the body before prayer in temples, along with rose, sandalwood and jasmine. The Arabians recommend the oil as a cure for baldness, and as an aphrodisiac.

ACTIONS: Antispasmodic, aphrodisiac, emetic, narcotic, sedative.

EXTRACTION: A concrete and absolute by solvent extraction from the flowers.

CHARACTERISTICS: The absolute is a dark orange, olive or green viscous liquid with a sweet, green-herbaceous odour and heavy floral undertone. It blends well with clove bud, jasmine, neroli, ylang ylang, rose, mimosa, sandalwood, oriental and floral fragrances.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Quercetin, possibly narcissine (the alkaloid that causes nausea).

SAFETY DATA: All members of the Amaryllidaceae family, especially the bulbs, have a profound effect on the nervous system, causing paralysis and even in some cases death. ‘The bulbs of N. poeticus are more dangerous than those of the daffodil, being powerfully emetic and irritant. The scent of the flowers is deleterious, if they are present in any quantity in a closed room, producing in some persons headache and even vomiting.’.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE Perfume.

OTHER USES: The absolute and concrete are used almost exclusively in high-class perfumes of the narcotic/floral type.... narcissus

Niaouli

Melaleuca viridiflora

FAMILY: Myrtaceae

SYNONYMS: M. quinquenervia, ‘gomenol’.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An evergreen tree with a flexible trunk and spongy bark, pointed linear leaves and bearing spikes of sessile yellowish flowers. The leaves have a strong aromatic scent when they are crushed.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to Australia, New Caledonia, and the French Pacific Islands. The majority of the oil is produced in Australia and Tasmania.

OTHER SPECIES: A typical member of the ‘tea tree’ group of oils; the oil is similar to cajeput. There is another physiological form of M. viridiflora called ‘Variety A’, which was originally developed to provide a natural source of nerolidol, the main constituent of its essential oil.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: It is used locally for a wide variety of ailments, such as aches and pains, respiratory conditions, cuts and infections; it is also used to purify the water. The name ‘gomenol’ derives from the fact that it used to be shipped from Gomen in the French East Indies.

ACTIONS: Analgesic, anthelmintic, anticatarrhal, antirheumatic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, bactericidal, balsamic, cicatrisant, diaphoretic, expectorant, regulator, stimulant, vermifuge.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the leaves and young twigs. (Usually rectified to remove irritant aldehydes.)

CHARACTERISTICS: A colourless, pale yellow or greenish liquid with a sweet, fresh, camphoraceous odour.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Cineol (50–65 per cent), terpineol, pinene, limonene, citrene, terebenthene, valeric ester, acetic ester, butyric ester.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, nonsensitizing. Often subject to adulteration.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Acne, boils, burns, cuts, insect bites, oily skin, spots, ulcers, wounds.

Circulation muscles and joints: Muscular aches and pains, poor circulation, rheumatism.

Respiratory system: Asthma, bronchitis, catarrhal conditions, coughs, sinusitis, sore throat, whooping cough.

Genito-urinary system: Cystitis, urinary infection.

Immune system: Colds, fever, ’flu.

OTHER USES: Used in pharmaceutical preparations such as gargles, cough drops, toothpastes, mouth sprays, etc.... niaouli

Opopanax

Commiphora erythraea

FAMILY: Burseraceae

SYNONYMS: C. erythraea var. glabrascens, bisabol myrrh, sweet myrrh.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall tropical tree, similar to myrrh (to which it is closely related), which contains a natural oleogum resin in tubular vessels between the bark and wood of the trunk. The natives make incisions in the trunk of the tree to increase the yield. The crude gum dries to form dark reddish-brown tear-shaped lumps with a sweet-woody, rootlike odour.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to East Africa (Somalia) and eastern Ethiopia (Harrar Province) where it grows wild. The essential oil production is generally carried out in the USA and Europe from the crude oleogum resin.

OTHER SPECIES: The original or ‘true’ opopanax used in perfumery was derived from a large plant Opopanax chironium or Pastinaca opopanax, a plant similar to the parsnip of the Umbelliferae family and native to the Levant region, Sudan and Arabia. The oleogum resin was obtained by cutting into the stem at the base, which then produces reddish-yellow tears of a strong rootlike, parsnip or celery-type smell. This type of opopanax is now unavailable, and has been replaced by a similar type of oil known as ‘bisabol myrrh’.

Not to be confused with cassie (Acacia farnesiana), which is also known as ‘opopanax’.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Opopanax derived from O. chironium is described as having antispasmodic, expectorant, emmenagogue and antiseptic properties, which used to be employed in asthma, hysteria and visceral afflictions. In the Far East the bisabol myrrh is used extensively as an ingredient in incense.

ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antispasmodic, balsamic, expectorant.

EXTRACTION: 1. Essential oil by steam (or water) distillation from the crude oleogum resin. 2. A resinoid by solvent extraction from the crude oleogum resin.

CHARACTERISTICS: 1. An orange, yellow or olive liquid with a sweet-balsamic, spicy, warm, animal-like odour (it does not contain a medicinal note like myrrh). It resinifies on exposure to air. 2. A solid dark mass with a warm, powdery, sweet-balsamic, rooty odour. It blends well with clary sage, coriander, labdanum, bergamot, myrrh, frankincense, vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, mimosa, fir needle and neroli.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: The crude contains resins, gums (50–80 per cent) and essential oils (10–20 per cent), notably the sesquiterpene ‘bisabolene’ and sesquiterpene alcohols.

SAFETY DATA: Frequently adulterated – it is more expensive than the ‘hirabol myrrh’. The commercial resinoid is also usually mixed with a solvent such as myristate, because it is otherwise unpourable at room temperatures.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE Possibly similar uses to myrrh.

OTHER USES: Used as a fixative and fragrance component in high-class perfumery. Used in liqueurs to lend body and add winelike notes.... opopanax

Orange, Bitter

Citrus aurantium var. amara

FAMILY: Rutaceae

SYNONYMS: C. vulgaris, C. bigaradia, Seville orange, sour orange bigarade (oil).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An evergreen tree up to 10 metres high with dark green, glossy, oval leaves, paler beneath, with long but not very sharp spines. It has a smooth greyish trunk and branches, and very fragrant white flowers. The fruits are smaller and darker than the sweet orange. It is well known for its resistance to disease and is often used as root stock for other citrus trees, including the sweet orange.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Far East, especially India and China, but has become well adapted to the Mediterranean climate. It also grows abundantly in the USA (California), Israel and South America. Main producers of the oil include Spain, Guinea, the West Indies, Italy, Brazil and the USA.

OTHER SPECIES: There are numerous different species according to location – oils from Spain and Guinea are said to be of superior quality.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: ‘Oranges and lemons strengthen the heart, are good for diminishing the coagubility of the blood, and are beneficial for palpitation, scurvy, jaundice, bleedings, heartburn, relaxed throat, etc. They are powerfully anti-scorbutic, either internally or externally applied.’. The dried bitter orange peel is used as a tonic and carminative in treating dyspepsia.

In Chinese medicine the dried bitter orange and occasionally its peel are used in treating prolapse of the uterus and of the anus, diarrhoea, and blood in the faeces. Ingestion of large amounts of orange peel in children, however, has been reported to cause toxic effects.

ACTIONS: Anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, astringent, bactericidal, carminative, choleretic, fungicidal, sedative (mild), stomachic, tonic.

EXTRACTION: An essential oil by cold expression (hand or machine pressing) from the outer peel of the almost ripe fruit. (A terpeneless oil is also produced.) The leaves are used for the production of petitgrain oil; the blossom for neroli oil.

CHARACTERISTICS: A dark yellow or brownish-yellow mobile liquid with a fresh, dry, almost floral odour with a rich, sweet undertone.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Over 90 per cent monoterpenes: mainly limonene, myrcene, camphene, pinene, ocimene, cymene, and small amounts of alcohols, aldehydes and ketones.

SAFETY DATA: Phototoxic; otherwise generally non-toxic, non-irritant and non sensitizing. Limonene has been reported to cause contact dermatitis in some individuals.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE See sweet orange.

OTHER USES: Used in certain stomachic, laxative and carminative preparations. Employed as a fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics, colognes and perfumes. Extensively used as a flavouring material, especially in liqueurs and soft drinks. Also utilized as a starting material for the isolation of naturallimonene.... orange, bitter

Orange, Sweet

Citrus sinensis

FAMILY: Rutaceae

SYNONYMS: C. aurantium var. dulcis, C. aurantium var. sinensis, China orange, Portugal orange.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An evergreen tree, smaller than the bitter variety, less hardy with fewer or no spines. The fruit has a sweet pulp and non-bitter membranes. Another distinguishing feature is the shape of the leaf stalk: the bitter orange is broader and in the shape of a heart.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to China; extensively cultivated especially in America (California and Florida) and round the Mediterranean (France, Spain, Italy). The expressed oil is mainly produced in Israel, Cyprus, Brazil and North America; the distilled oil mainly comes from the Mediterranean and North America.

OTHER SPECIES: There are numerous cultivated varieties of sweet orange, for example Jaffa, Navel and Valencia. There are also many other subspecies such as the Japanese orange (C. aurantium var. natsudaidai). See also bitter orange.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: A very nutritious fruit, containing vitamins A, B and C. In Chinese medicine the dried sweet orange peel is used to treat coughs, colds, anorexia and malignant breast sores. Li Shih-chen says: ‘The fruits of all the different species and varieties of citrus are considered by the Chinese to be cooling. If eaten in excess they are thought to increase the “phlegm”, and this is probably not advantageous to the health. The sweet varieties increase bronchial secretion, and the sour promote expectoration. They all quench thirst, and are stomachic and carminative.’.

ACTIONS: Antidepressant, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, bactericidal, carminative, choleretic, digestive, fungicidal, hypotensive, sedative (nervous), stimulant (digestive and lymphatic), stomachic, tonic.

EXTRACTION: 1. Essential oil by cold expression (hand or machine) of the fresh ripe or almost ripe outer peel. 2. Essential oil by steam distillation of the fresh ripe or almost ripe outer peel. An oil of inferior quality is also produced by distillation from the essences recovered as a byproduct of orange juice manufacture. Distilled sweet orange oil oxidizes very quickly, and anti-oxidant agents are often added at the place of production. (An oil from the flowers is also produced occasionally called neroli Portugal or neroli petalae; an oil from the leaves is also produced in small quantities.)

SYNONYM: 1. A yellowy-orange or dark orange mobile liquid with a sweet, fresh fruity scent, richer than the distilled oil. It blends well with lavender, neroli, lemon, clary sage, myrrh and spice oils such as nutmeg, cinnamon and clove.

2. A pale yellow or colourless mobile liquid with a sweet, light-fruity scent, but little tenacity.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Over 90 per cent monoterpenes, mainly limonene. The cold expressed oil also contains bergapten, auraptenol and acids.

SAFETY DATA: Generally non-toxic (although ingestion of large amounts of orange peel has been known to be fatal to children); non-irritant and non-sensitizing (although limonene has been found to cause dermatitis in a few individuals). Distilled orange oil is phototoxic: its use on the skin should be avoided if there is danger of exposure to direct sunlight. However, there is no evidence to show that expressed sweet orange oil is phototoxic although it too contains coumarins.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Dull and oily complexions, mouth ulcers.

Circulation muscles and joints: Obesity, palpitations, water retention.

Respiratory system: Bronchitis, chills.

Digestive system: Constipation, dyspepsia, spasm.

Immune system: Colds, ’flu.

Nervous system: Nervous tension and stressrelated conditions.

OTHER USES: Sweet orange peel tincture is used to flavour pharmaceuticals. Extensively used as a fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes, especially eau-de-colognes. Extensively used in all areas of the food and drinks industry (more so than the bitter orange oil). Used as the starting material for the isolation of naturallimonene.... orange, sweet

Patchouli

Pogostemon cablin

FAMILY: Lamiaceae (Labiatae)

SYNONYMS: P. patchouly, patchouly, puchaput.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A perennial bushy herb up to 1 metre high with a sturdy, hairy stem, large, fragrant, furry leaves and white flowers tinged with purple.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to tropical Asia, especially Indonesia and the Philippines. It is extensively cultivated for its oil in its native regions as well as India, China, Malaysia and South America. The oil is also distilled in Europe and America from the dried leaves.

OTHER SPECIES: Closely related to the Java patchouli (P. heyneanus), also known as false patchouli, which is also occasionally used to produce an essential oil.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The oil is used in the East generally to scent linen and clothes, and is believed to help prevent the spread of disease (prophylactic). In China, Japan and Malaysia the herb is used to treat colds, headaches, nausea, vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain and halitosis. In Japan and Malaysia it is used as an antidote to poisonous snakebites.

ACTIONS: Antidepressant, anti-inflammatory, anti-emetic, antimicrobial, antiphlogistic, antiseptic, antitoxic, antiviral, aphrodisiac, astringent, bactericidal, carminative, cicatrisant, deodorant, digestive, diuretic, febrifuge, fungicidal, nervine, prophylactic, stimulant (nervous), stomachic, tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation of the dried leaves (usually subjected to fermentation previously). A resinoid is also produced, mainly as a fixative.

CHARACTERISTICS: An amber or dark orange viscous liquid with a sweet, rich, herbaceous earthy odour – it improves with age. It blends well with labdanum, vetiver, sandalwood, cedarwood, oakmoss, geranium, clove, lavender, rose, neroli, bergamot, cassia, myrrh, opopanax, clary sage and oriental-type bases.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Patchouli alcohol (40 per cent approx.), pogostol, bulnesol, nor patchoulenol, bulnese, patchoulene, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Acne, athlete’s foot, cracked and chapped skin, dandruff, dermatitis, eczema (weeping), fungal infections, hair care, impetigo, insect repellent, sores, oily hair and skin, open pores, wounds, wrinkles.

Nervous system: Frigidity, nervous exhaustion and stress-related complaints.

OTHER USES: Extensively used in cosmetic preparations, and as a fixative in soaps and perfumes, especially oriental types. Extensively used in the food industry, in alcoholic and soft drinks. It makes a good masking agent for unpleasant tastes and smells.... patchouli

Parsley

Petroselinum sativum

FAMILY: Apiaceae (Umbelliferae)

SYNONYMS: P. hortense, Apium petroselinum, Carum petroselinum, common parsley, garden parsley.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A biennial or shortlived perennial herb up to 70 cms high with crinkly bright green foliage, small greenish-yellow flowers and producing small brown seeds.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Mediterranean region, especially Greece. It is cultivated extensively, mainly in California, Germany, France, Belgium, Hungary and parts of Asia. The principal oil-producing countries are France, Germany, Holland and Hungary.

OTHER SPECIES: There are over thirty-seven different varieties of parsley, such as the curly leaved type (P. crispum), which is used in herbal medicine.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: It is used extensively as a culinary herb, both fresh and dried. It is a very nutritious plant, high in vitamins A and C; also used to freshen the breath. The herb and seed are used medicinally, principally for kidney and bladder problems, but it has also been employed for menstrual difficulties, digestive complaints and for arthritis, rheumatism, rickets and sciatica. It is said to stimulate hair growth, and help eliminate head lice.

The root is current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for flatulent dyspepsia with intestinal colic.

ACTIONS: Antimicrobial, antirheumatic, antiseptic, astringent, carminative, diuretic, depurative, emmenagogue, febrifuge, hypotensive, laxative, stimulant (mild), stomachic, tonic (uterine).

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from 1. the seed, and 2. the herb. (An essential oil is occasionally extracted from the roots; an oleoresin is also produced by solvent extraction from the seeds.)

CHARACTERISTICS: 1. A yellow, amber or brownish liquid with a warm woody-spicy herbaceous odour. 2. A pale yellow or greenish liquid with a heavy, warm, spicy-sweet odour, reminiscent of the herb. It blends well with rose, neroli, cananga, tea tree, oakmoss, clary sage and spice oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: 1. Mainly apiol, with myristicin, tetramethoxyally benzene, pinene and volatile fatty acids. 2. Mainly myristicin (up to 85 per cent), with phellandrene, myrcene, apiol, terpinolene, menthatriene, pinene and carotel, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Both oils are moderately toxic and irritant – myristicin has been shown to have toxic properties, and apiol has been shown to have irritant properties; otherwise non sensitizing. Use in moderation. Avoid during pregnancy.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Circulation muscles and joints: Accumulation of toxins, arthritis, broken blood vessels, cellulitis, rheumatism, sciatica.

Digestive system: Colic, flatulence, indigestion, haemorrhoids.

Genito-urinary system: Amenorrhoea, dysmenorrhoea, to aid labour, cystitis, urinary infection.

OTHER USES: Used in some carminative and digestive remedies, such as ‘gripe waters’. The seed oil is used in soaps, detergents, colognes, cosmetics and perfumes, especially men’s fragrances. The herb and seed oil as well as the oleoresin are used extensively in many types of food flavourings, especially meats, pickles and sauces, as well as alcoholic and soft drinks.... parsley

Petitgrain

Citrus aurantium var. amara

FAMILY: Rutaceae

SYNONYMS: C. bigaradia, petitgrain bigarade (oil), petitgrain Paraguay (oil). See also bitter orange.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: The oil of petitgrain is produced from the leaves and twigs of the same tree that produces bitter orange oil and neroli oil: see bitter orange and neroli.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to southern China and north east India. The best quality petitgrain oil comes from France but a good-quality oil is also produced in North Africa, Paraguay and Haiti from semi-wild trees.

OTHER SPECIES: A type of petitgrain is also produced in small quantities from the leaves, twigs and small unripe fruit of the lemon, sweet orange, mandarin and bergamot trees.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: At one time the oil used to be extracted from the green unripe oranges when they were still the size of a cherry – hence the name petitgrains or ‘little grains’. One of the classic ingredients of eau-de-cologne.

ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antispasmodic, deodorant, digestive, nervine, stimulant (digestive, nervous), stomachic, tonic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the leaves and twigs. An orange ‘leaf and flower’ water absolute is also produced, known as petitgrain sur fleurs.

CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow to amber liquid with a fresh-floral citrus scent and a woody-herbaceous undertone. It blends well with rosemary, lavender, geranium, bergamot, bitter orange, labdanum, neroli, oakmoss, clary sage, jasmine, benzoin, palmarosa, clove and balsams.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: 40–80 per cent esters: mainly linalyl acetate and geranyl acetate, as well as linalol, nerol, terpineol, geraniol, nerolidol, farnesol, limonene, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, nonsensitizing, non-phototoxic.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Acne, excessive perspiration, greasy skin and hair, toning.

Digestive system: Dyspepsia, flatulence.

Nervous system: Convalescence, insomnia, nervous exhaustion and stress-related conditions.

OTHER USES: Extensively used as a fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes, especially colognes (sometimes used to replace neroli). Employed as a flavour component in many foods, especially confectionery, as well as alcoholic and soft drinks.... petitgrain

Plai

Zingiber cassumunar

FAMILY: Zingiberaceae

SYNONYMS: Z. montanum, Z. cassumunar ‘Roxburgh’, Z. purpureum ‘Roscoe’, cassumunar ginger.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: The root of this tropical perennial plant is tuberous, with long fleshy fibres and jointed appendages, much like ginger but slightly larger. The fresh rhizome, which is yellow inside, has a cool, green, camphoraceous, spicy-warm scent. The stem is made of green leaf sheathes which are grass-like with brownish-purple pointed shoots bearing pale yellow flowers.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to Thailand, Indonesia and India: it is now commonly found throughout Asia. Since plai is an important medicinal plant in Thailand, there are many regions where plai is cultivated and there are now at least three native varieties or sub-species found in Thailand.

OTHER SPECIES: There are several sub-species (and essential oil chemotypes) of plai depending on the location of the plant from which it has been extracted. Essential oil produced from rhizomes grown in the north-west region is the most typical from Thailand and contains almost as much terpinen-4-ol as tea tree oil. Terpinen-4-ol has been well researched, and is to known to activate white blood cells: it also has significant antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal properties. Oil produced from the central region contains more sabinene. Zingiber cassumunar is a close relative of ginger and galangal, both of which are used to produce essential oils.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Zingiber cassumunar is widely used in folklore remedies as a single plant or as component of herbal recipes in Thailand and many Asian countries for the treatments of conditions, such as inflammation, sprains and strains, rheumatism and muscular pain. Although it is derived from the same plant family as ginger (Zingiber officinale), it does not possess the classic warming effect common to ginger. Instead, plai has a cooling action on inflamed areas, making it an excellent choice for treating injuries, post-operative pain and all types of muscular and joint pain such as torn muscles and ligaments as well as conditions such as arthritis and rheumatism. For this reason, plai has long been regarded by Thai massage therapists as one of the most essential oils to have at their disposal. Although generally diluted with a carrier oil, it can be applied directly to the skin when treating areas of severe pain or inflammation that are close to the surface of the skin. It is reported to ease pain for up to 16–20 hours – it is even used by Thai boxers for pain relief!

Used in skin care, the oil exhibits good antioxidant properties and is used in Thai culture to treat stretch marks and scars; also to heal wounds. Plai herbal compound is used traditionally in the form of a poultice and decoction for the treatment of a range of digestive disorders including colic, constipation, diarrhoea, flatulence, nausea heartburn. Zingiber cassumunar is also a traditional Thai remedy for respiratory conditions, including asthma, catarrh, colds and coughs, fever and influenza.

ACTIONS: Analgesic, antioxidant, antibacterial, antimicrobial, antihistamine, antineuralgic, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antispasmodic, antitoxic, antiviral, carminative, digestive, diuretic, febrifugal, laxative, rubefacient, rejuvenating, stimulant, tonic, vermifuge.

EXTRACTION: Steam distilled from the fresh rhizome (roots) of the Plai plant (Zingiber cassumunar).

CHARACTERISTICS: The oil is a pale amber colour with a fresh, herbaceous, spicy-green scent and a resinous, slightly floral undertone. It will blends well with black pepper, bergamot, ginger, grapefruit, lemongrass, lime, jasmine, lavender, neroli, petitgrain, rosemary, sandalwood and tea tree.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: The main active chemical constituents of the oil are terpinen-4-ol (up to 49 per cent) sabinene (up to 45 per cent), DMPBD (up to per cent), g-terpinene and a-terpinene – depending on the source of the oil.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritating and non-sensitizing. Best to check for any possible sensitization due to variants in chemo-types available.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Acne, cuts, stretch marks, scars, wounds.

Circulation muscles and joints: All types of aches and pains caused by inflammation, including arthritis and rheumatism, cramp, gout, joint problems, muscle spasm, sprains and strains, torn muscles and ligaments as well as post-operative pain.

Digestive system: Cramps, colic, constipation, diarrhea, flatulence, indigestion, heartburn.

Respiratory system: Asthma, catarrh, chronic colds, bronchitis, congestion, fever, flu, sinusitis.

Genito-urinary system: Menstrual cramps.

Immune system: Stimulates the immune system and boosts vitality.

Nervous system: Anxiety, nervous tension, stress.

OTHER USES: The fresh rhizome or powdered root is much used in traditional Thai cuisine. The oil is used in the pharmaceutical industry, for example, in mosquito repellant formulations.... plai

Ravintsara

Cinnamomum camphora

FAMILY: Lauraceae

SYNONYMS: Cinnamomum camphora ct. 1,8-cineole.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: Cinnamomum camphora is a tall evergreen tropical tree characteristic of the Laurel family that grows up to 20–30 metres tall. The foliage is bright green and the leaves have a glossy, waxy appearance bearing masses of small white flowers in spring. It produces clusters of shiny black berries and has a pale bark that is very rough and fissured vertically.

DISTRIBUTION: C. camphora is native to China, Japan, and Taiwan but has been introduced to many countries throughout the world including India, Australia and the USA, where in places such as Florida it is becoming increasingly invasive and a danger to the native flora. This species is not indigenous to Madagascar and was introduced onto the island during the middle of the nineteenth century. As the plant became accustomed to the Malagasy climate it became a distinct subspecies, which in time adapted so well to the new environment, naturalizing in the central-eastern regions, that it became a very sustainable species for producing an essential oil, now called ravintsara oil. However, since it is clear there are many different sub-varieties of C. camphora in various parts of the world, it is possible that there also existed another native aromatic tree already growing in Madagascar originally known as ravintsara by the local people. According to Georges M. Halpern in The Healing Trail: Essential Oils of Madagascar, an indigenous tree of this name had been part of the Malagasy culture for many centuries and its leaves were used as a traditional folk medicine.

OTHER SPECIES: The genus Cinnamomum has approximately 250 different species, many of which yield an essential oil on distillation. Amongst the most important are C. zeylanicum (cinnamon bark and leaf oils) and C. cassia (cassia oil). The single species C. camphora itself produces a wide range of essential oils including: camphor, ho wood and leaf oil, sassafras and ravintsara. All these essential oils, although derived from the same tropical tree or botanical species, differ in their chemical profile enormously depending on the country of origin as well as the part of the plant used to extract the oil: e.g. leaf or bark.

There are at least 6 different chemotypes of C. camphora essential oil due to this factor, including the camphor, linalool, 1,8-cineole, nerolidol, safrole and borneol types. For example, C. camphora, grown in Taiwan and Japan, is known as Ho oil, and has linalool as its major constituent, whereas in India and Sri Lanka the camphor type of C. camphora remains the most important. The variety of C. camphora cultivated in Madagascar contains high levels of 1,8-cineole and no camphor. In order to avoid any confusion, it has been suggested that Ravintsara should be labelled: ‘Cinnamomum camphora ct. 1,8-cineole.’

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The term Cinnamomum is derived from the Greek root kinnamon or kinnamomon meaning ‘sweet wood’. The word ravint means leaf and sara means ‘good for you’ according to the Malagasy tradition, as the local people have long appreciated the therapeutic value of its leaves which were used in folk medicine to treat digestive complaints, headaches, colds and chest infections. It has also been used for culinary applications and employed as a herbal tea. The Malagasy people themselves believe that the original Ravintsara tree is an indigenous species: a ‘cousin’ of the well-known C. camphora species, which has since been introduced.

ACTIONS: Antibacterial, anticatarrhal, antifungal, anti-infectious, antimicrobial, antirheumatic, antiviral, decongestant, cicatrisant (wound healer), expectorant, immune and neurotonic.

EXTRACTION: Steam distilled from the leaves of the plant.

CHARACTERISTICS: Fresh, woody, slightly floral, balsamic, eucalyptus-like scent. It blends well with eucalyptus, rosemary, bay, frankincense, cardamon, pine, cypress, juniper and citrus oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Ravintsara is akin to Eucalyptus globulus oil (as both are particularly effective for respiratory infections) due to its high 1,8-cineole content ranging from 45–55 per cent. Other major constituents include monoterpenes (sabinene 15 per cent, alpha-pinene and beta-pinene), sesquiterpenes (beta-carophyllene), monoterpenic alcohols (alpha-terpineol 7 per cent and terpineol) and esters (terpenyl acetate).

NOTE: Ravintsara essential oil contain at least 45 per cent 1,8-cineole compared to approximately 5 per cent found in Ravensara aromatica oil.

SAFETY DATA: Ravintsara oil is generally very well tolerated by the majority of the population, although like eucalyptus, it can cause sensitization in some individuals and should be used in moderation.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Shingles, herpes, verrucas, warts and athletes foot.

Circulation muscles and joints: Aching muscles and joints.

Respiratory system: Coughs, colds, influenza and other respiratory ailments such as asthma, bronchitis, sinusitis, laryngitis, otitis, tonsillitis and whooping cough.

Immune system: Viral infections especially air-borne infections.

Nervous system: Nervous debility

OTHER USES: Ravintsara oil is produced in a ‘pharmaceutical grade’ for the chemical and perfumery industry.... ravintsara

Rose, Cabbage

Rosa centifolia

FAMILY: Rosaceae

SYNONYMS: Rose maroc, French rose, Provence rose, hundred-leaved rose, Moroccan otto of rose (oil), French otto of rose (oil), rose de mai (absolute or concrete).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: The rose which is generally used for oil production is strictly a hybrid between R. centifolia, a pink rose, and R. gallica, a dark red rose. This variety, known as rose de mai, grows to a height of 2.5 metres and produces an abundance of flowers with large pink or rosy-purple petals. There are two subspecies – one is more spiny than the other.

DISTRIBUTION: The birthplace of the cultivated rose is believed to be ancient Persia; now cultivated mainly in Morocco, Tunisia, Italy, France, Yugoslavia and China. The concrete, absolute and oil are mainly produced in Morocco; the absolute in France, Italy and China.

OTHER SPECIES: There are over 10,000 types of cultivated rose! There are several subspecies of R. centifolia, depending on the country of origin. Other therapeutic species are the red rose or apothecary rose (R. gallica) of traditional Western medicine, the oriental or tea rose (R. indica), the Chinese or Japanese rose (R. rugosa) and the Turkish or Bulgarian rose (R. damascena) which is also extensively cultivated for its oil. Recently rosehip seed oil from R. rubiginosa has been found to be a very effective skin treatment; it promotes tissue regeneration and is good for scars, burns and wrinkles. The wild rose (Eubatus rubus) is now also being used to produce a rare absolute with a rich, spicy-earthy fragrance. See also entry on damask rose and the Botanical Classification section.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The healing virtues of the rose have been known since antiquity and although roses are rarely used in herbal practice nowadays, up to the Middle Ages they played an essential part in the materia medica, and still

fulfil an important role in Eastern medicine. They were used for a wide range of disorders, including digestive and menstrual problems, headaches and nervous tension, liver congestion, poor circulation, fever (plague), eye infections and skin complaints. ‘The symbolism connected with the rose is perhaps one of the richest and most complex associated with any plant ... traditionally associated with Venus, the Goddess of love and beauty, and in our materialistic age the Goddess is certainly alive and well in the cosmetics industry for rose oil (mainly synthetic) is found as a component in 46% of men’s perfumes and 98% of women’s fragrances.’.

The French or Moroccan rose possesses narcotic properties and has the reputation for being aphrodisiac (more so than the Bulgarian type), possibly due to the high percentage of phenyl ethanol in the former. For further distinctions between the different properties of rose types, see damask rose.

ACTIONS: Antidepressant, antiphlogistic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, anti-tubercular agent, antiviral, aphrodisiac, astringent, bactericidal, choleretic, cicitrisant, depurative, emmenagogue, haemostatic, hepatic, laxative, regulator of appetite, sedative (nervous), stomachic, tonic (heart, liver, stomach, uterus).

EXTRACTION: 1. Essential oil or otto by water or steam distillation from the fresh petals. (Rose water is produced as a byproduct of this process.) 2. Concrete and absolute by solvent extraction from the fresh petals. (A rose leaf absolute is also produced in small quantities in France.)

CHARACTERISTICS: 1. The oil is a pale yellow liquid with a deep, sweet, rosy-floral, tenacious odour. 2. The absolute is a reddish orange viscous liquid with a deep, rich, sweet, rosy-spicy, honeylike fragrance. It blends well with jasmine, cassie, mimosa, neroli, geranium, bergamot, lavender, clary sage, sandalwood, guaiacwood, patchouli, benzoin, chamomile, Peru balsam, clove and palmarosa.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: It has over 300 constituents, some in minute traces. Mainly citronellol (18–22 per cent), phenyl ethanol (63 per cent), geraniol and nerol (10–15 per cent), stearopten (8 per cent), farnesol (0.2–2 per cent), among others.

SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Skin care: Broken capillaries, conjunctivitis (rose water), dry skin, eczema, herpes, mature and sensitive complexions, wrinkles.

Circulation muscles and joints: Palpitations, poor circulation.

Respiratory system: Asthma, coughs, hay fever.

Digestive system: Cholecystitis, liver congestion, nausea.

Genito-urinary system: Irregular menstruation, leucorrhoea, menorrhagia, uterine disorders.

Nervous system: Depression, impotence, insomnia, frigidity, headache, nervous tension and stress-related complaints – ‘But the rose procures us one thing above all: a feeling of well being, even of happiness, and the individual under its influence will develop an amiable tolerance.’.

OTHER USES: Rose water is used as a household cosmetic and culinary article (especially in Persian cookery). The concrete, absolute and oil are employed extensively in soaps, cosmetics, toiletries and perfumes of all types – floral, oriental, chypres, etc. Some flavouring uses, especially fruit products and tobacco.... rose, cabbage

Tuberose

Polianthes tuberosa

FAMILY: Agavaceae

SYNONYMS: Tuberosa, tubereuse

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tender, tall, slim perennial up to 50 cms high, with long slender leaves, a tuberous root and large, very fragrant, white lilylike flowers.

DISTRIBUTION: Native of Central America, where it is found growing wild. Cultivated for its oil in southern France, Morocco, China, Taiwan and Egypt.

OTHER SPECIES: Related to the narcissus and jonquil. The Chinese species of tuberose is somewhat different from the French and Moroccan type, although both are single flowered varieties.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The double flowered variety is grown for ornamental purposes and for use by the cut flower trade. ‘Pure absolute extraction of tuberose is perhaps the most expensive natural flower oil at the disposal of the modern perfumer.’.

ACTIONS: Narcotic.

EXTRACTION: A concrete and absolute by solvent extraction from the fresh flowers, picked before the petals open. (An essential oil is also obtained by distillation of the concrete.)

CHARACTERISTICS: The absolute is a dark orange or brown soft paste, with a heavy, sweet floral, sometimes slightly spicy, tenacious fragrance. It blends well with gardenia, violet, opopanax, rose, jasmine, carnation, orris, Peru balsam, neroli and ylang ylang.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Methyl benzoate, methyl anthranilate, benzyl alcohol, butyric acid, eugenol, nerol, farnesol, geraniol, among others.

SAFETY DATA: No safety data available – often adulterated.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE Perfume.

OTHER USES: Used in high-class perfumes, especially of an oriental, floral or fantasy type. Occasionally used for flavouring confectionery and some beverages.... tuberose

Verbena, Lemon

Aloysia triphylla

FAMILY: Verbenaceae

SYNONYMS: A. citriodora, Verbena triphylla, Lippia citriodora, L. triphylla, verbena, herb Louisa.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A handsome deciduous perennial shrub up to 5 metres high with a woody stem, very fragrant, delicate, pale green, lanceolate leaves arranged in threes, and small, pale purple flowers. Often grown as an ornamental bush in gardens.

DISTRIBUTION: Native of Chile and Argentina; cultivated (and found semi-wild) in the Mediterranean region – France, Tunisia, Algeria – as well as Kenya and China. The oil is mainly produced in southern France and North Africa.

OTHER SPECIES: Botanically related to the oregano family – see Botanical Classification section. Not to be mistaken for the so-called ‘Spanish verbena’ or ‘verbena’ oil (Spanish) (Thymus hiamalis), nor confused with the herb ‘vervain’ (Verbena officinalis). This is further confused since the French name for verbena is verveine (Verveine citronelle, Verveine odorante).

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: ‘The uses of lemon verbena are similar to those of mint, orange flowers and melissa.’. It is indicated especially in nervous conditions which manifest as digestive complaints. The dried leaves are still used as a popular household tea especially on the Continent, both as a refreshing, uplifting ‘pick-me-up’ and to help restore the liver after a hang-over.

ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, detoxifying, digestive, febrifuge, hepatobiliary stimulant, sedative (nervous), stomachic.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the freshly harvested herb.

CHARACTERISTICS: A pale olive or yellow mobile liquid with a sweet, fresh, lemony, fruity-floral fragrance. It blends well with neroli, palmarosa, olibanum, Tolu balsam, elemi, lemon and other citrus oils.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Citral (30–35 per cent), nerol and geraniol, among others.

SAFETY DATA: Possible sensitization; phototoxicity due to high citral levels. Other safety data is unavailable at present – however, true verbena oil is virtually non-existent. Most so-called ‘verbena oil’ is either from the Spanish verbena (an inferior oil), or a mix of lemongrass, lemon, citronella, etc.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE

Digestive system: Cramps, indigestion, liver congestion.

Nervous system: Anxiety, insomnia, nervous tension and stress-related conditions.

OTHER USES: Used in perfumery and citrus colognes – ‘eau de verveine’ is still popular in France, Europe and America.... verbena, lemon

Wormwood

Artemisia absinthium

FAMILY: Asteraceae (Compositae)

SYNONYMS: Common wormwood, green ginger, armoise, absinthium (oil).

GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A perennial herb up to 1.5 metres high with a whitish stem, silvery-green, divided leaves covered in silky fine hairs, and pale yellow flowers.

DISTRIBUTION: Native to Europe, North Africa and western Asia; naturalized in North America. It is extensively cultivated in central and southern Europe, the USSR, North Africa and the USA, where the oil is mainly produced.

OTHER SPECIES: There are many other Artemisia species such as davana and the Roman wormwood. See also entry on mugwort (A. vulgaris) also commonly called ‘armoise’; remedy for epilepsy and as an aromatic stewing herb to banish fleas.

HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Used as an aromatic-bitter for anorexia, as a digestive tonic and as a choleretic for liver and gall bladder disorders, usually in the form of a dilute extract. It is also used to promote menstruation, reduce fever and expel worms. It was once used as a remedy for epilepsy and as an aromatic stewing herb to banish fleas.

ACTIONS: Anthelmintic, choleretic, deodorant, emmenagogue, febrifuge, insect repellent, narcotic, stimulant (digestive), tonic, vermifuge.

EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the leaves and flowering tops. (An absolute is occasionally produced by solvent extraction.)

CHARACTERISTICS: A dark green or bluish oil with a spicy, warm, bitter-green odour and a sharp, fresh topnote. The ‘de-thujonized’ oil blends well with oakmoss, jasmine, neroli, lavender and hyacinth.

PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Thujone (up to 71 per cent), azulenes, terpenes.

SAFETY DATA: Toxic. Abortifacient. Habitual use can cause restlessness, nightmares, convulsions, vomiting and, in extreme cases, brain damage. In 1915 the French banned the production of the drink Absinthe with this plant, due to its narcotic and habit-forming properties.

AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE None. ‘Should not be used in therapy either internally or externally.’.

OTHER USES: Occasionally used in rubefacient pharmaceutical preparations and as a fragrance component in toiletries, cosmetics and perfumes. Widely employed (at minute levels) as a flavouring agent in alcoholic bitters and vermouths; also to a lesser extent in soft drinks and some foods, especially confectionery and desserts.... wormwood

Skin Care

Acne (M,S,F,B,I,N):

Bergamot, camphor (white), cananga, cedarwood (Atlas, Texas & Virginian), chamomile (German & Roman), clove bud, galbanum, geranium, grapefruit, immortelle, juniper, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), lemon, lemongrass, lime, linaloe, litsea cubeba, mandarin, mint (peppermint & spearmint), myrtle, niaouli, palmarosa, patchouli, petitgrain, rosemary, rosewood, sage (clary & Spanish), sandalwood, tea tree, thyme, vetiver, violet, yarrow, ylang ylang.

Allergies (M,S,F,B,I):

Melissa, chamomile (German & Roman), immortelle, true lavender, spikenard.

Athlete’s foot (S):

Clove bud, eucalyptus, lavender (true &spike), lemon, lemongrass, myrrh, patchouli, tea tree.

Baldness & hair care (S,H):

West Indian bay, white birch, cedarwood (Atlas, Texas & Virginian), chamomile (German & Roman), grapefruit, juniper, patchouli, rosemary, sage (clary & Spanish), yarrow, ylang ylang.

Boils, abscesses & blisters (S,C,B):

Bergamot, chamomile (German & Roman), eucalyptus blue gum, galbanum, immortelle, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), lemon, mastic, niaouli, clary sage, tea tree, thyme, turpentine.

Bruises (S,C):

Arnica (cream), borneol, clove bud, fennel, geranium, hyssop, sweet marjoram, lavender, thyme.

Burns (C,N):

Canadian balsam, chamomile (German & Roman), clove bud, eucalyptus blue gum, geranium, immortelle, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), marigold, niaouli, tea tree, yarrow.

Chapped & cracked skin (S,F,B):

Peru balsam, Tofu balsam, benzoin, myrrh, patchouli, sandalwood.

Chilblains (S,N):

Chamomile (German & Roman), lemon, lime, sweet marjoram, black pepper.

Cold sores/herpes (S):

Bergamot, eucalyptus blue gum, lemon, tea tree.

Congested & dull skin (M,S,F,B,I):

Angelica, white birch, sweet fennel, geranium, grapefruit, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), lemon, lime, mandarin, mint (peppermint & spearmint), myrtle, niaouli, orange (bitter & sweet), palmarosa, rose (cabbage & damask), rosemary, rosewood, ylang ylang.

Cuts/sores (S,C):

Canadian balsam, benzoin, borneol, cabreuva, cade, chamomile (German & Roman), clove bud, elemi, eucalyptus (blue gum, lemon & peppermint), galbanum, geranium, hyssop, immortelle, lavender (spike & true), lavandin, lemon, lime, linaloe, marigold, mastic, myrrh, niaouli, Scotch pine, Spanish sage, Levant styrax, tea tree, thyme, turpentine, vetiver, yarrow.

Dandruff (S,H):

West Indian bay, cade, cedarwood (Atlas, Texas & Virginian), eucalyptus, spike lavender, lemon, patchouli, rosemary, sage (clary & Spanish), tea tree.

Dermatitis (M,S,C,F,B):

White birch, cade, cananga, carrot seed, cedarwood (Atlas, Texas & Virginian), chamomile (German & Roman), geranium, immortelle, hops, hyssop, juniper, true lavender, linaloe, litsea cubeba, mint (peppermint & spearmint), palmarosa, patchouli, rosemary, sage (clary & Spanish), thyme.

Dry & sensitive skin (M,S,F,B):

Peru balsam, Tolu balsam, cassie, chamomile (German & Roman), frankincense, jasmine, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), rosewood, sandalwood, violet.

Eczema (M,S,F,B):

Melissa, Peru balsam, Tolu balsam, bergamot, white birch, cade, carrot seed, cedarwood (Atlas, Texas & Virginian), chamomile (German & Roman), geranium, immortelle, hyssop, juniper, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), marigold, myrrh, patchouli, rose (cabbage & damask), rosemary, Spanish sage, thyme, violet, yarrow.

Excessive perspiration (S,B):

Citronella, cypress, lemongrass, litsea cubeba, petitgrain, Scotch pine, Spanish sage.

Greasy or oily skin/scalp (M,S,H,F,B):

West Indian bay, bergamot, cajeput, camphor (white), cananga, carrot seed, citronella, cypress, sweet fennel, geranium, jasmine, juniper, lavender, lemon, lemongrass, !itsea cubeba, mandarin, marigold, mimosa, myrtle, niaouli, palmarosa, patchouli, petitgrain, rosemary, rosewood, sandalwood, clary sage, tea tree, thyme, vetiver, ylang ylang.

Haemorrhoids/piles (S,C,B):

Canadian balsam, Copaiba balsam, coriander, cubebs, cypress, geranium, juniper, myrrh, myrtle, parsley, yarrow.

Insect bites (S,N):

French basil, bergamot, cajeput, cananga, chamomile (German & Roman), cinnamon leaf, eucalyptus blue gum, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), lemon, marigold, melissa, niaouli, tea tree, thyme, ylang ylang.

Insect repellent (S,V):

French basil, bergamot, borneol, camphor (white), Virginian cedarwood, citronella, clove bud, cypress, eucalyptus (blue gum & lemon), geranium, lavender, lemongrass, litsea cubeba, mastic, melissa, patchouli, rosemary, turpentine.

Irritated & inflamed skin (S,C,F,B):

Angelica, benzoin, camphor (white), Atlas cedarwood, chamomile (German & Roman), elemi, immortelle, hyssop, jasmine, lavandin, true lavender, marigold, myrrh, patchouli, rose (cabbage & damask), clary sage, spikenard, tea tree, yarrow.

Lice (S,H):

Cinnamon leaf, eucalyptus blue gum, galbanum, geranium, lavandin, spike lavender, parsley, Scotch pine, rosemary, thyme, turpentine.

Mouth & gum infections/ulcers (S,C):

Bergamot, cinnamon leaf, cypress, sweet fennel, lemon, mastic, myrrh, orange (bitter & sweet), sage (clary & Spanish), thyme.

Psoriasis (M,S,F,B):

Angelica, bergamot, white birch, carrot seed, chamomile (German & Roman), true lavender.

Rashes (M,S,C,F,B):

Peru balsam, Tofu balsam, carrot seed, chamomile (German & Roman), hops, true lavender, marigold, sandalwood, spikenard, tea tree, yarrow.

Ringworm (S,H):

Geranium, spike lavender, mastic, mint (peppermint & spearmint), myrrh, Levant styrax, tea tree, turpentine.

Scabies (S):

Tolu balsam, bergamot, cinnamon leaf, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), lemongrass, mastic, mint (peppermint & spearmint), Scotch pine, rosemary, Levant styrax, thyme, turpentine.

Scars & stretch marks (M,S):

Cabreuva, elemi, frankincense, galbanum, true lavender, mandarin, neroli, palmarosa, patchouli, rosewood, sandalwood, spikenard, violet, arrow.

Slack tissue (M,S,B):

Geranium, grapefruit, juniper, lemongrass, lime, mandarin, sweet marjoram, orange blossom, black pepper, petitgrain, rosemary, yarrow.

Spots (S,N):

Bergamot, cade, cajeput, camphor (white), eucalyptus (lemon), immortelle, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), lemon, lime, litsea cubeba, mandarin, niaouli, tea tree.

Ticks (S,N):

Sweet marjoram.

Toothache & teething pain (S,C,N):

Chamomile (German & Roman), clove bud, mastic, mint (peppermint & spearmint), myrrh.

Varicose veins (S,C):

Cypress, lemon, lime, neroli, yarrow.

Verrucae (S,N):

Tagetes, tea tree.

Warts & corns (S,N):

Cinnamon leaf, lemon, lime, tagetes, tea tree.

Wounds (S,C,B):

Canadian balsam, Peru balsam, Tolu balsam, bergamot, cabreuva, chamomile (German & Roman), clove bud, cypress, elemi, eucalyptus (blue gum & lemon), frankincense, galbanum, geranium, immortelle, hyssop, juniper, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), linaloe, marigold, mastic, myrrh, niaouli, patchouli, rosewood, Levant styrax, tea tree, turpentine, vetiver, yarrow.

Wrinkles & mature skin (M,S,F,B):

Carrot seed, elemi, sweet fennel, frankincense, galbanum, geranium, jasmine, labdanum, true lavender, mandarin, mimosa, myrrh, neroli, palmarosa, patchouli, rose (cabbage & damask), rosewood, clary sage, sandalwood, spikenard, ylang ylang.... skin care

Circulation, Muscles And Joints:

Accumulation of toxins (M,S,B):

Angelica, white birch, carrot seed, celery seed, coriander, cumin, sweet fennel, grapefruit, juniper, lovage, parsley.

Aches and pains (M,C,B):

Ambrette, star anise, aniseed, French basil, West Indian bay, cajeput, calamintha, camphor (white), chamomile (German & Roman), coriander, eucalyptus (blue gum & peppermint), silver fir, galbanum, ginger, immortelle, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), lemongrass, sweet marjoram, mastic, mint (peppermint & spearmint), niaouli, nutmeg, black pepper, pine (longleaf & Scotch), rosemary, sage (clary & Spanish), hemlock spruce, thyme, turmeric, turpentine, vetiver.

Arthritis (M,S,C,B):

Allspice, angelica, benzoin, white birch, cajeput, camphor (white), carrot seed, cedarwood (Atlas, Texas & Virginian), celery seed, chamomile (German & Roman), clove bud, coriander, eucalyptus (blue gum & peppermint), silver fir, ginger, guaiacwood, juniper, lemon, sweet marjoram, mastic, myrrh, nutmeg, parsley, black pepper, pine (longleaf & Scotch), rosemary, Spanish sage, thyme, tumeric, turpentine, vetiver, yarrow.

Cellulitis (M,S,B):

White birch, cypress, sweet fennel, geranium, grapefruit, juniper, lemon, parsley, rosemary, thyme.

Debility/poor muscle tone (M,S,B):

Allspice, ambrette, borneol, ginger, grapefruit, sweet marjoram, black pepper, pine (longleaf & Scotch), rosemary, Spanish sage.

Gout (M,S,B):

Angelica, French basil, benzoin, carrot seed, celery seed, coriander, guaiacwood, juniper, lovage, mastic, pine (longleaf & Scotch), rosemary, thyme, turpentine.

High blood pressure & hypertension (M,B,V):

cananga, garlic, true lavender, lemon, sweet marjoram, melissa, clary sage, yarrow, ylang ylang.

Muscular cramp & stiffness (M,C,B):

Allspice, ambrette, coriander, cypress, grapefruit, jasmine, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), sweet marjoram, black pepper, pine (longleaf & Scotch), rosemary, thyme, vetiver.

Obesity (M,B):

White birch, sweet fennel, juniper, lemon, mandarin, orange (bitter & sweet).

Oedema & water retention (M,B):

Angelica, white birch, carrot seed, cypress, sweet fennel, geranium, grapefruit, juniper, lavage, mandarin, orange (bitter & sweet), rosemary, Spanish sage.

Palpitations (M):

Neroli, orange (bitter & sweet), rose (cabbage & damask), ylang ylang.

Poor circulation & low blood pressure (M,B):

Ambrette, Peru balsam, West Indian bay, benzoin, white birch, borneol, cinnamon leaf, coriander, cumin, cypress, eucalyptus blue gum, galbanum, geranium, ginger, lemon, lemongrass, lovage, neroli, niaouli, nutmeg, black pepper, pine (longleaf & Scotch), rose (cabbage & damask), rosemary, Spanish sage, hemlock spruce, thyme, violet.

Rheumatism (M,C,B):

Allspice, angelica, star anise, aniseed, Peru balsam, French basil, West Indian bay, benzoin, white birch, borneol, cajeput, calamintha, camphor (white), carrot seed, cedarwood (Atlas, Texas & Virginian), celery seed, chamomile (German & Roman), cinnamon leaf, clove bud, coriander, cypress, eucalyptus (blue gum & peppermint), sweet fennel, silver fir, galbanum, ginger, immortelle, juniper, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), lemon, lovage, sweet marjoram, mastic, niaouli, nutmeg, parsley, black pepper, pine (longleaf & Scotch), rosemary, Spanish sage, hemlock spruce, thyme, turmeric, turpentine, vetiver, violet, yarrow.

Sprains & strains (C):

West Indian bay, borneol, camphor (white), chamomile (German & Roman), clove bud, eucalyptus (blue gum & peppermint), ginger, immortelle, jasmine, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), sweet marjoram, black pepper, pine (longleaf & Scotch), rosemary, thyme, turmeric, vetiver.... circulation, muscles and joints:

Nervous System

Anxiety (M,B,V):

Ambrette, Melissa, French basil, bergamot, cananga, frankincense, hyssop, jasmine, juniper, true lavender, mimosa, neroli, hemlock spruce, Levant styrax, lemon verbena, ylang ylang.

Depression (M,B,V):

Allspice, ambrette, Melissa, Canadian balsam, French basil, bergamot, cassie, grapefruit, immortelle, jasmine, true lavender, neroli, rose (cabbage & damask), clary sage, sandalwood, hemlock spruce, vetiver, ylang ylang.

Headache (M,C,V):

Chamomile (German & Roman), citronella, cumin, eucalyptus (blue gum & peppermint), grapefruit, hops, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), lemongrass, linden, sweet marjoram, mint (peppermint & spearmint), rose (cabbage & damask), rosemary, rosewood, sage (clary & Spanish), thyme, violet.

Insomnia (M,B,V):

Melissa, French basil, calamintha, chamomile (German & Roman), hops, true lavender, linden, mandarin, sweet marjoram, neroli, petitgrain, rose (cabbage & damask), sandalwood, thyme, valerian, lemon verbena, vetiver, violet, yarrow, ylang ylang.

Migraine (C):

Angelica, Melissa, French basil, chamomile (German & Roman), citronella, coriander, true lavender, linden, sweet marjoram, mint (peppermint & spearmint), clary sage, valerian, yarrow.

Nervous exhaustion or fatigue/debility (M,B,V):

Allspice, angelica, asafetida, French basil, borneol, cardamon, cassie, cinnamon leaf, citronella, coriander, costus, cumin, elemi, eucalyptus (blue gum & peppermint), ginger, grapefruit, immortelle, hyacinth, hyssop, jasmine, lavandin, spike lavender, lemongrass, mint (peppermint & spearmint), nutmeg, palmarosa, patchouli, petitgrain, Scotch pine, rosemary, sage (clary & Spanish), thyme, vetiver, violet, ylang ylang.

Neuralgia/sciatica (M,B):

Allspice, West Indian bay, borneol, celery seed, chamomile (German & Roman), citronella, coriander, eucalyptus (blue gum & peppermint), geranium, immortelle, hops, spike lavender, sweet marjoram, mastic, mint (peppermint & spearmint), nutmeg, pine (longleaf & Scotch), rosemary, turpentine.

Nervous tension and stress (M,B,V):

Allspice, ambrette, angelica, asafetida, Melissa, Canadian balsam, copaiba balsam, Peru balsam, French basil, benzoin, bergamot, borneol, calamintha, cananga, cardamon, cassie, cedarwood (Atlas, Texas & Virginian), chamomile (German & Roman), cinnamon leaf, costus, cypress, elemi, frankincense, galbanum, geranium, immortelle, hops, hyacinth, hyssop, jasmine, juniper, true lavender, lemongrass, linaloe, linden, mandarin, sweet marjoram, mimosa, mint (peppermint & spearmint), neroli, orange (bitter & sweet), palmarosa, patchouli, petitgrain, Scotch pine, rose (cabbage & damask), rosemary, rosewood, clary sage, sandalwood, hemlock spruce, thyme, valerian, lemon verbena, vetiver, violet, yarrow, ylang ylang.

Shock (M,B,V):

Melissa, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), neroli.

Vertigo (V,I):

Melissa, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), mint (peppermint & spearmint), violet.

... nervous system

Respiratory System

Asthma (M,V,I):

Asafetida, Canadian balsam, Peru balsam, benzoin, cajeput, clove bud, costus, cypress, elecampane, eucalyptus (blue gum, lemon & peppermint), frankincense, galbanum, immortelle, hops, hyssop, lavender (spike & true), lavandin, lemon, lime, sweet marjoram, melissa, mint (peppermint & spearmint), myrrh, myrtle, niaouli, pine (longleaf & Scotch), rose (cabbage & damask), rosemary, sage (clary & Spanish), hemlock spruce, tea tree, thyme.

Bronchitis (M,V,I):

Angelica, star anise, aniseed, asafetida, Canadian balsam, copaiba balsam, Peru balsam, Tolu balsam, French basil, benzoin, borneol, cajeput, camphor (white), caraway, cascarilla bark, cedarwood (Atlas, Texas & Virginian), clove bud, costus, cubebs, cypress, elecampane, elemi, eucalyptus (blue gum & peppermint), silver fir, frankincense, galbanum, immortelle, hyssop, labdanum, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), lemon, sweet marjoram, mastic, mint (peppermint & spearmint), melissa, myrrh, myrtle, niaouli, orange (bitter & sweet), pine (longleaf & Scotch), rosemary, sandalwood, hemlock spruce, Levant styrax, tea tree, thyme, turpentine, violet.

Catarrh (M,V,I):

Canadian balsam, Tolu balsam, cajeput, cedarwood (Atlas, Texas & Virginian), cubebs, elecampane, elemi, eucalyptus (blue gum & peppermint), frankincense, galbanum, ginger, hyssop, jasmine, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), lemon, lime, mastic, mint (peppermint & spearmint), myrrh, myrtle, niaouli, black pepper, pine (longleaf & Scotch), sandalwood, Levant styrax, tea tree, thyme, turpentine, violet.

Chill (M,B):

Copaiba balsam, benzoin, cabreuva, calamintha, camphor (white), cinnamon leaf, ginger, grapefruit, orange (bitter & sweet), black pepper.

Chronic coughs (M,V,I):

Canadian balsam, costus, cubebs, cypress, elecampane, elemi, frankincense, galbanum, immortelle hops, hyssop, jasmine, melissa, mint (peppermint & spearmint), myrrh, myrtle, sandalwood, Levant styrax.

Coughs (M,V,I):

Angelica, star anise, aniseed, copaiba balsam, Peru balsam, Tolu balsam, French basil, benzoin, borneol, cabreuva, cajeput, mmphor (white), caraway, cascarilla bark, Atlas cedarwood, eucalyptus (blue gum & peppermint), silver fir, ginger, hyssop, labdanum, sweet marjoram, myrrh, niaouli, black pepper, pine (longleaf & Scotch), rose (cabbage & damask), rosemary, sage (clary & Spanish), hemlock spruce, tea tree.

Croup (M,I):

Tolu balsam.

Earache (C):

French basil, chamomile (German & Roman), lavender (spike & true).

Halitosis/offensive breath (S):

Bergamot, cardamon, sweet fennel, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), mint (peppermint & spearmint), myrrh.

Laryngitis/hoarseness (1):

Tolu balsam, benzoin, caraway, cubebs, lemon eucalyptus, frankincense, jasmine, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), myrrh, sage (clary & Spanish), sandalwood, thyme.

Sinusitis (1):

French basil, cajeput, cubebs, eucalyptus blue gum, silver fir, ginger, labdanum, peppermint, niaouli, pine (longleaf & Scotch), tea tree.

Sore throat & throat infections (V,I):

Canadian balsam, bergamot, cajeput, eucalyptus (blue gum, lemon & peppermint), geranium, ginger, hyssop, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), myrrh, myrtle, niaouli, pine (longleaf & Scotch), sage (clary & Spanish), sandalwood, tea tree, thyme, violet.

Tonsillitis (1):

Bergamot, geranium, hyssop, laurel, myrtle, sage (clary & Spanish), thyme.

Whooping cough (M,I):

Asafetida, immortelle, hyssop, true lavender, mastic, niaouli, rosemary, sage (clary & Spanish), tea tree, turpentine.

Digestive System

Colic (M):

Star anise, aniseed, calamintha, caraway, cardamon, carrot seed, chamomile (German & Roman), clove bud, coriander, cumin, dill, sweet fennel, ginger, hyssop, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), sweet marjoram, melissa, mint (peppermint & spearmint), neroli, parsley, black pepper, rosemary, clary sage.

Constipation & sluggish digestion (M,B):

Cinnamon leaf, cubebs, sweet fennel, lovage, sweet marjoram, nutmeg, orange (bitter & sweet), palmarosa, black pepper, tarragon, turmeric, yarrow.

Cramp/gastric spasm (M,C):

Allspice, star anise, aniseed, caraway, cardamon, cinnamon leaf, coriander, costus, cumin, galbanum, ginger, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), lovage, mint (peppermint & spearmint), neroli, orange (bitter & sweet), black pepper, clary sage, tarragon, lemon verbena, yarrow.

Griping pains (M):

Cardamon, dill, sweet fennel, parsley.

Heartburn (M):

Cardamon, black pepper. Indigestion/flatulence (M):

Allspice, angelica, star anise, aniseed, French basil, calamintha, caraway, cardamon, carrot seed, cascarilla bark, celery seed, chamomile (German & Roman), cinnamon leaf, clove bud, coriander, costus, cubebs, cumin, dill, sweet fennel, galbanum, ginger, hops, hyssop, laurel, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), lemongrass, linden, litsea cubeba, lovage, mandarin, sweet marjoram, melissa, mint (peppermint & spearmint), myrrh, neroli, nutmeg, orange (bitter & sweet), parsley, black pepper, petitgrain, rosemary, clary sage, tarragon, thyme, valerian, lemon verbena, yarrow.

Liver congestion (M):

Carrot seed, celery seed, immortelle, linden, rose (cabbage & damask), rosemary, Spanish sage, turmeric, lemon verbena.

Loss of appetite (M):

Bergamot, caraway, cardamon, ginger, laurel, myrrh, black pepper.

Nausea/vomiting (M,V):

Allspice, French basil, cardamon, cascarilla bark, chamomile (German & Roman), clove bud, coriander, sweet fennel, ginger, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), melissa, mint (peppermint & spearmint), nutmeg, black pepper, rose (cabbage & damask), rosewood, sandalwood.... respiratory system

Genito-urinary And Endocrine Systems

Amenorrhoea/lack of menstruation (M,B):

French basil, carrot seed, celery seed, cinnamon leaf, dill, sweet fennel, hops, hyssop, juniper, laurel, lovage, sweet marjoram, myrrh, parsley, rose (cabbage & damask), sage (clary & Spanish), tarragon, yarrow.

Dysmenorrhoea/cramp, painful or difficult menstruation (M,C,B):

Melissa, French basil, carrot seed, chamomile (German & Roman), cypress, frankincense, hops, jasmine, juniper, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), lovage, sweet marjoram, rose (cabbage & damask), rosemary, sage (clary & Spanish), tarragon, yarrow.

Cystitis (C,B,D):

Canadian balsam, copaiba balsam, bergamot, cedarwood (Atlas, Texas & Virginian), celery seed, chamomile (German & Roman), cubebs, eucalyptus blue gum, frankincense, juniper, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), lovage, mastic, niaouli, parsley, Scotch pine, sandalwood, tea tree, thyme, turpentine, yarrow.

Frigidity (M,S,B,V):

Cassie, cinnamon leaf, jasmine, neroli, nutmeg, parsley, patchouli, black pepper, cabbage rose, rosewood, clary sage, sandalwood, ylang ylang.

Lack of nursing milk (M):

Celery seed, dill, sweet fennel, hops.

Labour pain & childbirth aid (M,C,B):

Cinnamon leaf, jasmine, true lavender, nutmeg, parsley, rose (cabbage & damask), clary sage.

Leucorrhoea/white discharge from the vagina (B,D):

Bergamot, cedarwood (Atlas, Texas & Virginian), cinnamon leaf, cubebs, eucalyptus blue gum, frankincense, hyssop, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), sweet marjoram, mastic, myrrh, rosemary, clary sage, sandalwood, tea tree, turpentine.

Menopausal problems (M,B,V):

Cypress, sweet fennel, geranium, jasmine, rose (cabbage & damask).

Menorrhagia/excessive menstruation (M,B):

Chamomile (German & Roman), cypress, rose (cabbage & damask).

Premenstrual tension/PMT (M,B,V):

Carrot seed, chamomile (German & Roman), geranium, true lavender, sweet marjoram, neroli, tarragon.

Pruritis/itching (D):

Bergamot, Atlas cedarwood, juniper, lavender, myrrh, tea tree.

Sexual overactivity (M,B):

Hops, sweet marjoram.

Thrush/candida (B,D):

Bergamot, geranium, myrrh, tea tree.

Urethritis (B,D):

Bergamot, cubebs, mastic, tea tree, turpentine.

Immune System

Chickenpox (C,S,B):

Bergamot, chamomile (German & Roman), eucalyptus (blue gum & lemon), true lavender, tea tree.

Colds/’flu (M,B,V,I):

Angelica, star anise, aniseed, copaiba balsam, Peru balsam, French basil, West Indian bay, bergamot, borneol, cabreuva, cajeput, camphor (white), caraway, cinnamon leaf, citronella, clove bud, coriander, eucalyptus (blue gum, lemon & peppermint), silver fir, frankincense, ginger, grapefruit, immortelle, juniper, laurel, lemon, lime, sweet marjoram, mastic, mint (peppermint & spearmint), myrtle, niaouli, orange (bitter & sweet), pine (longleaf & Scotch), rosemary, rosewood, Spanish sage, hemlock spruce, tea tree, thyme, turpentine, yarrow.

Fever (C,B):

French basil, bergamot, borneol, camphor (white), eucalyptus (blue gum, lemon & peppermint), silver fir, ginger, immortelle, juniper, lemon, lemongrass, lime, mint (peppermint & spearmint), myrtle, niaouli, rosemary, rosewood, Spanish sage, hemlock spruce, tea tree, thyme, yarrow.

Measles (S,B,I,V):

Bergamot, eucalyptus blue gum, lavender (spike & true), tea tree.... genito-urinary and endocrine systems


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