FAMILY: Rosaceae
SYNONYMS: Rose maroc, French rose, Provence rose, hundred-leaved rose, Moroccan otto of rose (oil), French otto of rose (oil), rose de mai (absolute or concrete).
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: The rose which is generally used for oil production is strictly a hybrid between R. centifolia, a pink rose, and R. gallica, a dark red rose. This variety, known as rose de mai, grows to a height of 2.5 metres and produces an abundance of flowers with large pink or rosy-purple petals. There are two subspecies – one is more spiny than the other.
DISTRIBUTION: The birthplace of the cultivated rose is believed to be ancient Persia; now cultivated mainly in Morocco, Tunisia, Italy, France, Yugoslavia and China. The concrete, absolute and oil are mainly produced in Morocco; the absolute in France, Italy and China.
OTHER SPECIES: There are over 10,000 types of cultivated rose! There are several subspecies of R. centifolia, depending on the country of origin. Other therapeutic species are the red rose or apothecary rose (R. gallica) of traditional Western medicine, the oriental or tea rose (R. indica), the Chinese or Japanese rose (R. rugosa) and the Turkish or Bulgarian rose (R. damascena) which is also extensively cultivated for its oil. Recently rosehip seed oil from R. rubiginosa has been found to be a very effective skin treatment; it promotes tissue regeneration and is good for scars, burns and wrinkles. The wild rose (Eubatus rubus) is now also being used to produce a rare absolute with a rich, spicy-earthy fragrance. See also entry on damask rose and the Botanical Classification section.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The healing virtues of the rose have been known since antiquity and although roses are rarely used in herbal practice nowadays, up to the Middle Ages they played an essential part in the materia medica, and still
fulfil an important role in Eastern medicine. They were used for a wide range of disorders, including digestive and menstrual problems, headaches and nervous tension, liver congestion, poor circulation, fever (plague), eye infections and skin complaints. ‘The symbolism connected with the rose is perhaps one of the richest and most complex associated with any plant ... traditionally associated with Venus, the Goddess of love and beauty, and in our materialistic age the Goddess is certainly alive and well in the cosmetics industry for rose oil (mainly synthetic) is found as a component in 46% of men’s perfumes and 98% of women’s fragrances.’.
The French or Moroccan rose possesses narcotic properties and has the reputation for being aphrodisiac (more so than the Bulgarian type), possibly due to the high percentage of phenyl ethanol in the former. For further distinctions between the different properties of rose types, see damask rose.
ACTIONS: Antidepressant, antiphlogistic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, anti-tubercular agent, antiviral, aphrodisiac, astringent, bactericidal, choleretic, cicitrisant, depurative, emmenagogue, haemostatic, hepatic, laxative, regulator of appetite, sedative (nervous), stomachic, tonic (heart, liver, stomach, uterus).
EXTRACTION: 1. Essential oil or otto by water or steam distillation from the fresh petals. (Rose water is produced as a byproduct of this process.) 2. Concrete and absolute by solvent extraction from the fresh petals. (A rose leaf absolute is also produced in small quantities in France.)
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. The oil is a pale yellow liquid with a deep, sweet, rosy-floral, tenacious odour. 2. The absolute is a reddish orange viscous liquid with a deep, rich, sweet, rosy-spicy, honeylike fragrance. It blends well with jasmine, cassie, mimosa, neroli, geranium, bergamot, lavender, clary sage, sandalwood, guaiacwood, patchouli, benzoin, chamomile, Peru balsam, clove and palmarosa.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: It has over 300 constituents, some in minute traces. Mainly citronellol (18–22 per cent), phenyl ethanol (63 per cent), geraniol and nerol (10–15 per cent), stearopten (8 per cent), farnesol (0.2–2 per cent), among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitizing.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Broken capillaries, conjunctivitis (rose water), dry skin, eczema, herpes, mature and sensitive complexions, wrinkles.
Circulation muscles and joints: Palpitations, poor circulation.
Respiratory system: Asthma, coughs, hay fever.
Digestive system: Cholecystitis, liver congestion, nausea.
Genito-urinary system: Irregular menstruation, leucorrhoea, menorrhagia, uterine disorders.
Nervous system: Depression, impotence, insomnia, frigidity, headache, nervous tension and stress-related complaints – ‘But the rose procures us one thing above all: a feeling of well being, even of happiness, and the individual under its influence will develop an amiable tolerance.’.
OTHER USES: Rose water is used as a household cosmetic and culinary article (especially in Persian cookery). The concrete, absolute and oil are employed extensively in soaps, cosmetics, toiletries and perfumes of all types – floral, oriental, chypres, etc. Some flavouring uses, especially fruit products and tobacco.