Rarely, ingredients such as preservatives may result in sensitization.... emulsifying ointment
FAMILY: Fabaceae (Leguminosae)
SYNONYMS: Copahu balsam, copaiba, copaiva, Jesuit’s balsam, Maracaibo balsam, para balsam.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: Wild-growing tropical tree up to 18 metres high, with thick foliage and many branches. The natural oleoresin occurs as a physiological product from various Copaifera species. Not a ‘true’ balsam.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to north east and central South America. Mainly produced in Brazil; also Venezuela, Guyana, Surinam and Colombia.
OTHER SPECIES: Several Copaifera speices yield an oleoresin: the Venezuelan type ‘Maracaibo balsam’ has a low oil content, the Brazilian type ‘para balsam’ has a high oil content. See also Botanical Classification section.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Used for centuries in Europe in the treatment of chronic cystitis and bronchitis; also for treating piles, chronic diarrhoea and intestinal problems.
ACTIONS: Batericidal, balsamic, disinfectant, diuretic, expectorant, stimulant.
EXTRACTION: 1. The crude balsam is collected by drilling holes into the tree trunks; it is one of the most plentiful naturally occurring perfume materials. 2. An essential oil is obtained by dry distillation from the crude balsam. It is mainly the ‘para balsams’ with a high oil content (60–80 per cent), which are used for distillation.
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. The crude balsam is a viscous, yellowy-brown or greenish-grey liquid which hardens upon exposure to air with a mild, woody, slightly spicy odour. It blends well with styrax, amyris, lavandin, cedarwood, lavender, oakmoss, woods and spices. 2. The oil is a pale yellow or greenish mobile liquid with a mild, sweet, balsamic-peppery odour. It blends well with cananga, ylang ylang, vanilla, jasmine, violet and other florals.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly caryophyllene.
SAFETY DATA: Relatively non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization. Large doses cause vomiting and diarrhoea.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE:
DIGESTIVE SYSTEM: Intestinal infections, piles.
Respiratory System: Bronchitis, chills, colds, coughs, etc.
Genito-Rinary System: Cystitis.
Nervous System: Stress-related conditons.
OTHER USES: The oleoresin is used in pharmaceutical products especially cough medicines and iuretics. The oil and crude balsam are extensively used as a fixative and fragrance component in all types of perfumes, soaps, cosmetics and detergents. The crude is also used in porcelain painting.
BALSAM, PERU... balsam, copaiba
FAMILY: Fabaceae (Leguminosae)
SYNONYMS: Toluifera balsamum, Balsamum tolutanum, B. americanum, Myrospermum toluiferum, Thomas balsam, resin Tolu, opobalsam.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall, graceful tropical tree, similar in appearance to the Peru balsam tree. The balsam is a pathological product, obtained by making V-shaped incisions into the bark and sap wood, often after the trunk has been beaten and scorched. It is a ‘true’ balsam.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to South America, mainly Venezuela, Colombia and Cuba; also cultivated in the West Indies.
OTHER SPECIES: There are many types of South American balsam-yielding trees, such as the Peru balsam – see entry.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The balsam works primarily on the respiratory mucous membranes, and is good for chronic catarrh and non-inflammatory chest complaints, laryngitis and croup. It is still used as a flavour and mild expectorant in cough syrups and lozenges. As an ingredient in compound benzoin tincture and similar formulations, it is helpful in the treatment of cracked nipples, lips, cuts, bedsores, etc.
ACTIONS: Antitussive, antiseptic, balsamic, expectorant, stimulant.
EXTRACTION: The crude balsam is collected from the trees. It appears first in liquid form, then hardens and solidifies into an orange-brown brittle mass. An ‘essential oil’ is obtained from the crude by 1. steam distillation, or 2. dry distillation. (A resinoid and absolute are also produced for use primarily as fixatives.)
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. A pale yellow-brown liquid with a sweet-floral scent and peppery undertone. 2. An amber-coloured liquid with a rich balsamic-floral scent, which slowly solidfies on cooling into a crystalline mass. Tolu balsam blends well with mimosa, ylang ylang, sandalwood, labdanum, neroli, patchouli, cedarwood and oriental, spicy and floral bases.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: The balsam contains approx. 80 per cent resin, 20 per cent oil, with cinnamic and benzoic acids, small amounts of terpenes, and traces of eugenol and vanillin.
SAFETY DATA: Available information indicates it to be non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization, see Peru Balsam.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
SKIN CARE: Dry, chapped and cracked skin, eczema, rashes, scabies, sores, wounds.
RESPIRATORY SYSTEM: Bronchitis, catarrh, coughs, croup, laryngitis. ‘It may be used as an inhalant by putting about a teaspoon into a steam bath.’6
OTHER USES: As a fixative and fragrance component in colognes, cosmetics and perfumes (especially the dry distilled type). Some use in pharmaceutical preparations, e.g. cough syrups. Low levels used in many major food products, especially baked goods.... balsam, tolu
FAMILY: Lamiaceae (Labiatae)
SYNOYNMS Common basil, joy-of-the-mountain, ‘true’ sweet basil, European basil.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tender annual herb, with very dark green, ovate leaves, greyish-green beneath, an erect square stem up to 60 cms high, bearing whorls of two-lipped greenish or pinky-white flowers. The whole plant has a powerful aromatic scent.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to tropical Asia and Africa, it is now widely cultivated throughout Europe, the Mediterranean region, the Pacific Islands, North and South America. The European, French or ‘true’ sweet basil oil is produced in France, Italy, Egypt, Bulgaria, Hungary and the USA.
OTHER SPECIES: There are many varieties of basil occurring all over the world, used both for their culinary and medicinal applications, such as bush basil (O. minimum), holy basil (O. sanctum), both from India, camphor basil (O. kilimanjaricum) from East Africa (also grown in India), and the fever plant (O. viride) from West Africa. However, there are two principal chemotypes most commonly used for the extraction of essential oil: the so-called ‘French basil’ and the ‘exotic basil’ – see separate entry.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Widely used in Far Eastern medicine especially in the Ayurvedic tradition, where it is called tulsi. It is used for respiratory problems such as bronchitis, coughs, colds, asthma, ’flu and emphysema but is also used as an antidote to poisonous insect or snake bites. It has also been used against epidemics and fever, such as malaria. It improves blood circulation and the digestive system and in China it is used for stomach and kidney ailments.
In the West it is considered a ‘cooling’ herb, and is used for rheumatic pain, irritable skin conditions and for those of a nervous disposition. It is a popular culinary herb, especially in Italy and France.
ACTIONS: Antidepressant, antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, cephalic, digestive, emmenagogue, expectorant, febrifuge, galactagogue, nervine, prophylactic, restorative, stimulant of adrenal cortex, stomachic, tonic.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the flowering herb.
CHARACTERISTICS: ‘True’ sweet basil oil is a colourless or pale yellow liquid with a light, fresh sweet-spicy scent and balsamic undertone. It blends well with bergamot, clary sage, lime, opopanax, oakmoss, citronella, geranium, hyssop and other ‘green’ notes.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Linalol (40–45 per cent), methyl chavicol (23.8 per cent) and small amounts of eugenol, limonene and citronellol, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Relatively non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization in some individuals. Avoid during pregnancy.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin Care: Insect bites (mosquito, wasp), insect repellent.
Circulation, Muscles and Joints: Gout, muscular aches and pains, rheumatism.
Respiratory Syste: Bronchitis, coughs, earache, sinusitis.
Digestive System: Dyspepsia, flatulence, nausea.
Genito-Urinary System: Cramps, scanty periods.
Immune System: Colds, fever, ’flu, infectious disease.
Nervous System: Anxiety, depression, fatigue, insomnia, migraine, nervous tension: ‘Oil of Basil is an excellent, indeed perhaps the best, aromatic nerve tonic. It clears the head, relieves intellectual fatigue, and gives the mind strength and clarity.’8
OTHER USES: The oil is used in soaps, cosmetics and perfumery; it is also used extensively in major food categories, especially savouries.... basil, french
FAMILY: Myrtaceae
SYNONYMS: Myrcia acris, Pimenta acris, myrcia, bay, bay rum tree, wild cinnamon, bayberry, bay leaf (oil).
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A wild-growing tropical evergreen tree up to 8 metres high, with large leathery leaves and aromatic fruits.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to the West Indies, particularly Dominica where the essential oil is produced.
OTHER SPECIES: There are several other varieties, for example the anise-scented and lemon-scented bay, the oils of which have a totally different chemical composition. Not to be confused with bay laurel, the common household spice, nor with the North American bayberry or wax myrtle (Myrcia cerifera) well known for its wax yielding berries.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The West Indian bay tree is often grown in groves together with the allspice or pimento bush, then the fruits of both are dried and powdered for the preparation of the household allspice. The so-called bay rum tree also provides the basic ingredient for the famous old hair tonic, which is made from the leaves by being distilled in rum. ‘A hair application with both fragrant and tonic virtues … useful for those who suffer from greasy hair and need a spirit-based, scalp-stimulating lotion to help them to control their locks!’9
ACTIONS: Analgesic, anticonvulsant, antineuralgic, antirheumatic, antiseptic, astringent, expectorant, stimulant, tonic (for hair).
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by water or steam distillation from the leaves. An oleoresin is also produced in small quantities.
CHARACTERISTICS: A dark yellow mobile liquid with a fresh-spicy top note and a sweet-balsamic undertone. It blends well with lavander, lavandin, rosemary, geranium, ylang ylang, citrus and spice oils.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Eugenol (up to 56 per cent), myrcene, chavicol and, in lesser amounts, methyl eugenol, linalol, limonene, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Moderately toxic due to high eugenol content; also a mucous membrane irritant – use in moderation only. Unlike bay laurel, however, it does not appear to cause dermal irritation or sensitization.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin Care: Scalp stimulant, hair rinse for dandruff, greasy, lifeless hair, and premoting growth.
Circulation, Muscles And Joints: Muscular and articular aches and pains, neuralgia, poor circulation, rheumatism, sprains, strains.
IMMUNE SYSTEM: Colds, ’flu, infectious diseases.
OTHER USES: Extensively used in fragrance work, in soaps, detergents, perfumes, aftershaves and hair lotions, including bay rum. Employed as a flavour ingredient in many major food categories, especially condiments, as well as alcoholic and soft drinks.... bay, west indian
FAMILY: Styracaceae
SYNONYMS: Gum benzoin, gum benjamin, styrax benzoin.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A large tropical tree up to 20 metres high with pale green citrus-like leaves, whitish underneath, bearing hard-shelled flattish fruit about the size of a nutmeg. The benzoin is a pathological product, formed when the trunk is cut; the tree exudes a balsamic resin which hardens upon exposure, to air and sunlight.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to tropical Asia; the two main regions of production are Sumatra, Java and Malaysia for ‘Sumatra’ benzoin, and Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia, China and Thailand for ‘Siam’ benzoin.
OTHER SPECIES: There are many different varieties within the Styrax family which produce benzoin, but these are generally classified under either Sumatra benzoin (S. paralleloneurus) or Siam benzoin (S. tonkinensis) – see also Botanical Classification section.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: It has been used for thousands of years in the east as a medicine and incense; the fumigations were believed to drive away evil spirits. It was used by the Chinese herbalists for its heating and drying qualities, as a good urinary antiseptic and as an aid to digestion.
In the west, it is best known in the form of compound tincture of benzoin or Friars Balsam, used for respiratory complaints. Externally it is used for cuts and irritable skin conditions; internally it is used as a carminative for indigestion, etc. It also acts as a preservative of fats.
ACTIONS: Anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, antiseptic, astringent, carminative, cordial, deodorant, diuretic, expectorant, sedative, styptic, vulnerary.
EXTRACTION: The crude benzoin is collected from the trees directly. Benzoin resinoid, or ‘resin absolute’, is prepared from the crude using solvents, for example benzene and alcohol, which are then removed. Commercial benzoin is usually sold dissolved in ethyl glycol or a similar solvent. A ‘true’ absolute is also produced in small quantities.
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. Sumatra crude benzoin occurs as greyish-brown brittle lumps with reddish streaks, with a styrax-like odour. There are several different qualities available; the so-called ‘almond’ grade is considered superior. 2. Siam benzoin comes in pebble or tear-shaped orange-brown pieces, with a sweet-balsamic vanilla-like scent, this type having a more refined odour than the Sumatra type.
Benzoin resinoid is produced from both the Siam and Sumatra types, or a mix of the two. It is an orange-brown viscous mass with an intensely rich sweet-balsamic odour. It blends well with sandalwood, rose, jasmine, copaiba balsam, frankincense, myrrh, cypress, juniper, lemon, coriander and other spice oils.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: 1. Sumatra Benzoin: mainly coniferyl cinnamate and sumaresinolic acid, with benzoic acid, cinnamic acid, and traces of styrene, vanillin and benzaldehyde. 2. Siam benzoin: mainly coniferyl benzoate (65–75 per cent), with benzoic acid, vanillin, siaresinolic acid and cinnamyl benzoate.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization. Compound benzoin tincture is ‘regarded as moderately toxic, due probably to occasional contact dermatitis developed in some individuals … which contains, in addition to benzoin, aloe, storax, Tolu balsam and others.’.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin Care: Cuts, chapped skin, inflamed and irritated conditions.
Circulation, Muscles And Joints: Arthritis, gout, poor circulation, rheumatism.
Respiratory System: Asthma, bronchitis, chills, colic, coughs, laryngitis.
Immune System: ’Flu.
Nervous System: Nervous tension and stress-related complaints. It warms and tones the heart and circulation, both physically and metaphorically: ‘This essence creates a kind of euphoria; it interposes a padded zone between us and events.’.
OTHER USES: Compound benzoin tincture is used in pharmaceuticals and in dentistry to treat gum inflammation. The resinoid and absolute are used extensively as fixatives and fragrance components in soaps, cosmetics, toiletries and perfumes, especially Siam benzoin. Both types are used in most food categories, including alcoholic and soft drinks.... benzoin
FAMILY: Cupressaceae
SYNONYMS: Juniper tar, prickly cedar, medlar tree, prickly juniper.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A large evergreen shrub up to 4 metres high, with long dark needles and brownish-black berries about the size of hazelnuts.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to southern France; now common throughout Europe and North Africa. The tar is produced mainly in Spain and Yugoslavia.
OTHER SPECIES: There are many varieties of juniper which are used commercially apart from the prickly juniper: J. communis produces juniper oil, J. virginiana produces Virginian cedarwood oil, and in Yugoslavia an oil is produced from the fruits and twigs of J. smreka.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Used in the treatment of cutaneous diseases, such as chronic eczema, parasites, scalp disease, hair loss, etc. especially in France and other continental countries. It is also used as an antiseptic wound dressing and for toothache.
ACTIONS: Analgesic, antimicrobial, antipruritic, antiseptic, disinfectant, parasiticide, vermifuge.
EXTRACTION: The crude oil or tar is obtained by destructive distillation from the branches and heartwood (usually in the form of shavings or chips). A rectified oil is produced from the crude by steam or vacuum distillation. In addition, an oil is occasionally produced from the berries by steam distillation.
CHARACTERISTICS: The rectified oil is an orange-brown, oily liquid with a woody, smoky, leatherlike odour. It blends well with thyme, origanum, clove, cassia, tea tree, pine and medicinal-type bases.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Cadinene, cadinol, p-cresol, guaiacol, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization problems. Use with care, especially when treating inflammatory or allergic skin conditions. Turpentine (terebinth) oil makes a useful alternative, with less possibility of an allergic reaction.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin Care: Cuts, dandruff, dermatitis, eczema, spots, etc.
OTHER USES: Extensively used in pharmaceutical work as a solvent for chemical drugs, in dermatological creams and ointments, as well as in veterinary medicine. Rectified cade is used in fragrance work, in soaps, lotions, creams and perfumes (especially leather and spice).... cade
FAMILY: Rutaceae
SYNONYM: Citrus aurantium subsp. bergamia.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A small tree, about 4.5 metres high with smooth oval leaves, bearing small round fruit which ripen from green to yellow, much like a miniature orange in appearance.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to tropical Asia. Extensively cultivated in Calabria in southern Italy and also grown commercially on the Ivory Coast.
OTHER SPECIES: Not to be confused with the herb bergamot or bee balm (Monarda didyma).
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Named after the Italian city of Bergamo in Lombardy, where the oil was first sold. The oil has been used in Italian folk medicine for many years, primarily for fever (including malaria) and worms; it does not feature in the folk tradition of any other countries. However, due to recent research in Italy, bergamot oil is now known to have a wide spectrum of applications, being particularly useful for mouth, skin, respiratory and urinary tract infections.
ACTIONS: Analgesic, anthelmintic, antidepressant, antiseptic (pulmonary, genito-urinary), antispasmodic, antitoxic, carminative, digestive, diuretic, deodorant, febrifuge, laxative, parasiticide, rubefacient, stimulant, stomachic, tonic, vermifuge, vulnerary.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by cold expression of the peel of the nearly ripe fruit. (A rectified or terpeneless oil is produced by vacuum distillation or solvent extraction.)
CHARACTERISTICS: A light greenish-yellow liquid with a fresh sweet-fruity, slightly spicy-balsamic undertone. On ageing it turns a brownish-olive colour. It blends well with lavender, neroli, jasmine, cypress, geranium, lemon, chamomile, juniper, coriander and violet.
PRINCIPAL CONSTTTUENTS Known to have about 300 compounds present in the expressed oil: mainly linalyl acetate (30–60 per cent), linalol (11–22 per cent) and other alcohols, sesquiterpenes, terpenes, alkanes and furocoumarins (including bergapten, 0.30–0.39 per cent).
SAFETY DATA: Certain furocoumarins, notably bergapten, have been found to be phototoxic on human skin; that is, they cause sensitization and skin pigmentation when exposed to direct sunlight (in concentration and in dilution even after some time!). Extreme care must be taken when using the oil in dermal applications – otherwise a rectified or ‘bergapten-free’ oil should be substituted. Available information indicates it to be otherwise non-toxic and relatively non-irritant.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin Care: Acne, boils, cold sores, eczema, insect repellent and insect bites, oily complexion, psoriasis, scabies, spots, varicose ulcers, wounds.
Respiratory System: Halitosis, mouth infections, sore throat, tonsillitis.
Digestive System: Flatulence, loss of appetite.
Genito-URINARY SYSTEM: Cystitis, leucorrhoea, pruritis, thrush.
Immune System: Colds, fever, ’flu, infectious diseases.
Nervous System: Anxiety, depression and stress-related conditions, having a refreshing and uplifting quality.
OTHER USES: Extensively used as a fragrance and, to a degree, a fixative in cosmetics, toiletries, suntan lotions and perfumes – it is a classic ingredient of eau-de-cologne. Widely used in most major food categories and beverages, notably Earl Grey tea.... bergamot
FAMILY: Annonaceae
SYNONYM: C. odoratum var. macrophylla.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall tropical tree, up to 30 metres high, which flowers all year round. It bears large, fragrant, tender yellow flowers which are virtually identical to those of the ylang ylang.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to tropical Asia: Java, Malaysia, the Philippines, the Moluccas.
OTHER SPECIES: Very closely related to the tree which produces ylang ylang oil, C. odorata var. genuina. Cananga is considered an inferior product in perfumery work; being grown in different regions the oil has a different quality, heavier and less delicate than ylang ylang. However, cananga is truly a ‘complete’ oil whereas ylang ylang is made into several distillates.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Used locally for infectious illnesses, for example malaria. The beautiful flowers are also used for decorative purposes at festivals.
ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antidepressant, aphrodisiac, hypotensive, nervine, sedative, tonic.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by water distillation from the flowers.
CHARACTERISTICS: Greenish-yellow or orange viscous liquid with a sweet, floral balsamic tenacious scent. It blends well with calamus, birch tar, copaiba balsam, labdanum, neroli, oakmoss, jasmine, guaiacwood and oriental-type bases.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Caryophyllene, benzyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, farnesol, terpineol, borneol, geranyl acetate, safrol, linalol, limonrne, methyl salicylate and over 100 minor components.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization especially in those with sensitive skin.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin Care: Insect bites, fragrance, general skin care.
Nervous System: Anxiety, depression, nervous tension and stress-related complaints.
OTHER USES: Fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes, especially men’s fragrances. Limited use as a flavour ingredient in some food products, alcoholic and soft drinks.... cananga
FAMILY: Cupressaceae
SYNONYMS: Red cedar, eastern red cedar, southern red cedar, Bedford cedarwood (oil).
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A coniferous, slow-growing, evergreen tree up to 33 metres high with a narrow, dense and pyramidal crown, a reddish heartwood and brown cones. The tree can attain a majestic stature with a trunk diameter of over 1.5 metres.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to North America, especially mountainous regions east of the Rocky Mountains.
OTHER SPECIES: There are many cultivars of the red cedar; its European relative is the shrubby red cedar (J. sabina) also known as savin – see entry. It is also closely related to the East African cedarwood (J. procera).
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The North American Indians used it for respiratory infections, especially those involving an excess of catarrh. Decoctions of leaves, bark, twigs and fruit were used to treat a variety of ailments: menstrual delay, rheumatism, arthritis, skin rashes, venereal warts, gonorrhoea, pyelitis and kidney infections.
It is an excellent insect and vermin repellent (mosquitoes, moths, woodworm, rats, etc.) and was once used with citronella as a commercial insecticide.
ACTIONS: Abortifacient, antiseborrhoeic, antiseptic (pulmonary, genito-urinary), antispasmodic, astringent, balsamic, diuretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, insecticide, sedative (nervous), stimulant (circulatory).
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the timber waste, sawdust, shavings, etc. (At one time a superior oil was distilled from the red heartwood, from trees over twenty five years old.)
CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow or orange oily liquid with a mild, sweet-balsamic, ‘pencil wood’ scent. It blends well with sandalwood, rose, juniper, cypress, vetiver, patchouli and benzoin.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly cedrene (up to 80 per cent), cedrol (3–14 per cent), and cedrenol, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Externally the oil is relatively non-toxic; can cause acute local irritation and possible sensitization in some individuals. Use in dilution only with care, in moderation. ‘The oil is a powerful abortifacient … use of the oil has been fatal.’. Avoid during pregnancy. Generally safer to use Atlas cedarwood.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin Care: Acne, dandruff, eczema, greasy hair, insect repellent, oily skin, psoriasis.
Circulation, Muscles And Joints: Arthritis, rheumatism.
Respiratory System: Bronchitis, catarrh, congestion, coughs, sinusitis.
Genito-Urinary System: Cystitis, leucorrhoea.
Nervous System: Nervous tension and stress-related disorders.
OTHER USES: Extensively used in room sprays and household insect repellents. Employed as a fragrance component in soaps, cosmetics and perfumes. Used as the starting material for the isolation of cedrene.... cedarwood, virginian
FAMILY: Apiaceae (Umbelliferae)
SYNONYM: Celery fruit.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A familiar biennial plant, 30–60 cms high, with a grooved, fleshy, erect stalk, shiny pinnate leaves and umbels of white flowers.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to southern Europe; extensively cultivated as a domestic vegetable. The oil is principally produced in India, and also Holland, China, Hungary and the USA.
OTHER SPECIES: There are many cultivated varieties, such as celeriac root (A. graveolens var. rapaceum) and the salad vegetable (A. graveolens var. dulce).
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Celery seed is widely used as a domestic spice. The seed is used in bladder and kidney complaints, digestive upsets and menstrual problems; the leaves are used in skin ailments. It is known to increase the elimination of uric acid and is useful for gout, neuralgia and rheumatoid arthritis. A remedy for hepatobiliary disorders, it has been found to have a regenerating effect on the liver.
Current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for rheumatoid arthritis with mental depression.
ACTIONS: Anti-oxidative, antirheumatic, antiseptic (urinary), antispasmodic, aperitif, depurative, digestive, diuretic, carminative, cholagogue, emmenagogue, galactagogue, hepatic, nervine, sedative (nervous), stimulant (uterine), stomachic, tonic (digestive).
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the whole or crushed seeds. (An oil from the whole herb, an oleoresin and extract are also produced in small quantities.)
CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow or orange oil with a spicy-warm, sweet, long-lasting odour. It blends well with lavender, pine, opopanax, lavage, tea tree, oakmoss, coriander and other spices.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Limonene (60 per cent), apiol, selinene, santalol, sedanolide and sedanolic acid anhydride, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization. Avoid during pregnancy.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Circulation Muscles And Joints: Arthritis, build-up of toxins in the blood, gout, rheumatism.
Digestive System: Dyspepsia, flatulence, indigestion, liver congestion, jaundice.
Genito-Urinary And Endocrine Systems: Amenorrhoea, glandular problems, increases milk flow, cystitis.
Nervous System: Neuralgia, sciatica.
OTHER USES: Used in tonic, sedative and carminative preparations, and as a fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. Extensively used as a flavouring agent in foods, especially by the spice industry, and in alcoholic and soft drinks.... celery seed
FAMILY: Magnoliaceae
SYNONYMS: M. aurantiaca, Magnolia champaca, joy perfume tree, champak, champac, champa, golden champaca.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: Champaca is a large, sub-tropical tree up to 6 metres high with a smooth grey bark and long, oval-shaped, glossy evergreen leaves. The flowers have 10–20 yellow, orange or cream-coloured narrow petals and an extremely heady fragrance. They bloom both in spring and autumn – on a warm, humid night, the scent can be enjoyed several hundred feet away! Champaca fruit are brown, containing bright red seeds.
DISTRIBUTION: Michelia champaca is native to India, where it occurs in humid, tropical evergreen forests. It is also found throughout Indo-China, Malaysia, Sumatra, Java and south-western China, as well as occurring naturally in the eastern Himalayan region. It is often grown as a boulevard tree in the tropics and in India is frequently planted in Hindu temple grounds and ornamental gardens. Champaca, especially its white-flowered hybrid, is now commonly cultivated in warm climates worldwide, for example, in California.
OTHER SPECIES: The genus Michelia contains about 40 species with a distribution including India, Malaysia, Indonesia, southern Japan, Taiwan and China. The leaves and flowers of the Michelia species resemble Magnolia, but the blossoms of Michelia generally form clusters among the leaves, rather than singly at the branch ends like Magnolia. There are several related species of M. champaca, such as the red champaca and the white champaca, grown specifically for their scented flowers, which are also used to produce essential oils. M. x alba, a white-flowered hybrid of M. champaca and M. montana, is prized throughout Asia for its fragrant, pure-white flowers, which are commonly floated in water bowls as Buddhist temple offerings and used a household decoration.
NB: Occasionally champaca is confused with champaca wood oil or guaiacwood oil (Bulnesia sarmienti), also known as palo santo (meaning ‘holy wood’), which is derived from an entirely different species native to South America.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Champaca is regarded as one of the most sacred trees of India and tropical Asia and has been revered by the people of India for thousands of years. M. champaca is sacred to Hindus and Buddhists alike and the flower is especially sacred to the Hindi god Vishnu, the god of love, and his consort Lakshmi. In India, the flowers are also used for adornment and their alluring scent is employed as a natural aphrodisiac, and as a fragrant decoration for bridal beds and for garlands.
All parts of the tree are considered medicinal and are utilized in various traditional remedies. In India, the scented oil infused from the champaca blossom is used for relief of vertigo and headaches. As a herbal remedy, the flowers have been used to treat urinary tract infections and as an emollient, febrifuge and to soothe anxiety. It is also considered a valuable aid for the treatment of all skin types, particularly mature, dry or sensitive skin. The derivation of the word ‘shampoo’ is the Hindi word champo, meaning ‘to massage’, which comes from champa, the Sanskrit name for champaca. This is because the oil from the tree was traditionally used to make fragrant hair and massage oils!
ACTIONS: Antidepressant, aphrodisiac, antispasmodic, antiseptic, antiviral, astringent, emollient, euphoric, emollient, febrifuge, stimulant and tonic.
EXTRACTION: The absolute is produced by solvent extraction from the fresh flowers. (An oil is also produced by steam distillation of the petals). The absolute requires thousands of fresh flowers to produce a tiny amount: thus its high cost.
CHARACTERISTICS: An intense, fresh, green-floral scent with an underlying warmth and subtle leafy notes. It blends well with jasmine, lemon, coriander, tuberose, grapefruit, bergamot, rose, ylang ylang, neroli, sandalwood and other floral scents
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Champaca absolute contains mainly linalool, benzyl acetate, beeta lonone, phenyl ethyl alcohol, gamma-selinene, benzyl benzoate, phenylethyl benzoate and eugenol.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization. Avoid during pregnancy.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE:
Skin Care: Dry, mature skin and sensitive skin, wrinkles and general skin care.
Nervous System: Anxiety, depression, fear, grief, insomnia, nervous debility, tension headaches, mood swings, stress.
OTHER USES: Champaca flowers are used (in part) to make the world’s most expensive perfume, Jean Patou’s famous scent, ‘Joy’, the second best selling perfume in the world after Chanel No. 5. The tree is also a source of timber and fuel and for the production of a yellow dye. The tree’s wood is used for making boats, drums, and religious engravings. In India, however, where the tree is revered, it is rarely cut down. ... champaca
FAMILY: Asteraceae (Compositae)
SYNONYMS: S. lappa, Aucklandia costus, Aplotaxis lappa, A. auriculata.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A large, erect, perennial plant up to 2 metres high with a thick tapering root and numerous almost black flowers.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to northern India; cultivated in India and south west China. The oil is mainly produced in India.
OTHER SPECIES: Closely related to elecampane (lnula helenium), whose roots are also used to produce an essential oil.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The root has been used for millennia in India and China for digestive complaints, respiratory conditions, as a stimulant and for infection including typhoid and cholera. It is also used as an incense.
ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antispasmodic, antiviral, bactericidal, carminative, digestive, expectorant, febrifuge, hypotensive, stimulant, stomachic, tonic.
EXTRACTION: The dried roots are macerated in warm water, then subjected to steam distillation followed by solvent extraction of the distilled water. (A concrete and absolute are also produced in small quantities.)
CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow or brownish viscous liquid of soft, woody-musty, extremely tenacious odour. It blends well with patchouli, opopanax, ylang ylang, oriental and floral fragrances.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly sesquiterpene lactones, including dihydrocostus lactone and costunolide (together up to 50 per cent), other sesquiterpenes such as costols, caryophyllene and selinene, as well as costic and oleic acids, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization in some individuals. Subject to frequent adulteration.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin Care: Perfume.
Respiratory System: Asthma, bronchitis, spasmodic cough.
Digestive System: Flatulence, indigestion, spasm.
Nervous system: Debility, nervous exhaustion and stress-related conditions.
OTHER USES: Fixative and fragrance component in cosmetics and perfumes. Used as a flavour ingredient by the food industry, especially in confectionery, alcoholic and soft drinks.... costus
FAMILY: Asteraceae (Compositae)
SYNONYMS: Helenium grandiflorum, Aster officinalis, A. helenium, inula, scabwort, alant, horseheal, yellow starwort, elf dock, wild sunflower, velvet dock, ‘essence d’aunée’.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A handsome perennial herb up to 1.5 metres high, with a stout stem covered in soft hairs. It has oval pointed leaves which are velvety underneath, large, yellow, daisy-like flowers and large, fleshy rhizome roots.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to Europe and Asia, naturalized in North America. Cultivated in Europe (Belgium, France, Germany) and Asia (China, India). The oil is mainly produced from imported roots in southern France.
OTHER SPECIES: There are several varieties of Inula; the European and Asian species are slightly different having a harsher scent. Other varieties include golden samphire (I. crithmoides) and sweet inula (I. graveolens or I. odora), which share similar properties.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: A herb of ancient medical repute, which used to be candied and sold as a sweetmeat. It is used as an important spice, incense and medicine in the east. It is used in both western and eastern herbalism, mainly in the form of a tea for respiratory conditions such as asthma, bronchitis and whooping cough, disorders of the digestion, intestines and gall bladder and for skin disorders.
Current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for irritating cough or bronchitis. Elecampane root is the richest source of inulin.
ACTIONS: Alterative, anthelmintic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antispasmodic, antitussive, astringent, bactericidal, diaphoretic, diuretic, expectorant, fungicidal, hyperglycaemic, hypotensive, stomachic, tonic.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the dried roots and rhizomes. (An absolute and concrete are also produced in small quantities.)
CHARACTERISTICS: A semi-solid or viscous dark yellow or brownish liquid with a dry, soft, woody, honey-like odour, often containing crystals. It blends well with cananga, cinnamon, labdanum, lavender, mimosa, frankincense, orris, tuberose, violet, cedarwood, patchouli, sandalwood, cypress, bergamot and oriental fragrances.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly sesquiterpene lactones, including alantolactone (or helenin), isolactone, dihydroisalantolactone, dihydralantolactone, alantic acid and azulene.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant; however it is a severe dermal sensitizer. In clinical tests it caused ‘extremely severe allergic reactions’ in twenty-three out of twenty-five volunteers. On the basis of these results it is recommended that the oil ‘should not be used on the skin at all’..
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE None.
NB In Phytoguide I, sweet inula (I. odora or I. graveolens), a deep green oil, is described as ‘queen of mucolytic essential oils’, having properties as diverse as: ‘anti-inflammatory, hyperthermic, sedative, cardia-regulative, diuretic and depurative’.. It is described as being an excellent oil for the cardiopulmonary zone including asthma, chronic bronchitis and unproductive coughs. This variety of Inula seems to avoid the sensitization problems of elecampane, at least when it is used as an inhalation or by aerosol treatment.
OTHER USES: Alantolactone is used as an anthelmintic in Europe (it is also an excellent bactericide). The oil and absolute are used as fixatives and fragrance components in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. Used as a flavour ingredient in alcoholic beverages, soft drinks and foodstuffs, especially desserts.... elecampane
FAMILY: Myrtaceae
SYNONYMS: Lemon-scented gum, citron-scented gum, scented gum tree, spotted gum, ‘boabo’.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An attractive, tall, evergreen tree with a smooth dimpled bark, blotched in grey, cream and pink, cultivated as an ornamental. The trunk grows fast, straight and to considerable height, and is used for timber. The young leaves are oval, the mature leaves narrow and tapering.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to Australia; cultivated mainly in Brazil and China.
OTHER SPECIES: There are numerous other species of eucalyptus – see entry on eucalyptus blue gum. See also Botanical Classification section.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Used traditionally for perfuming the linen cupboard by enclosing the dried leaves in a small cloth sachet. During the last century it was regarded as a good insect repellent, especially for cockroaches and silverfish.
ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antiviral, bactericidal, deodorant, expectorant, fungicidal, insecticide.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the leaves and twigs.
CHARACTERISTICS: A colourless or pale yellow mobile liquid with a strong, fresh, citronella-like odour and sweet balsamic undertone.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Citronellal (80–95 per cent), citronellol, geraniol and pinene, among others. (The gum or ‘kino’ contains the antibiotic substance ‘citriodorol’.)
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization in some individuals. Eucalyptus oil is toxic when taken internally, see Eucalyptus blue gum entry.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin Care: Athlete’s foot and other fungal infections (e.g. candida), cuts, dandruff, herpes, insect repellent, scabs, sores, wounds.
Respiratory System: Asthma, laryngitis, sore throat.
Immune System: Colds, fevers, infectious skin conditions such as chickenpox, infectious disease. ‘The essential oil contained in the leaves appears to have bacteriostatic activity towards Staphylococcus aureus; this is due to synergism between the citronellol and citronellal present in the oil’..
OTHER USES: Used as a fragrance component (in place of E. globulus) in soaps, detergents and perfumes; also used in room sprays and insect repellents Employed for the isolation of natural citronellal.... lemon-scented
FAMILY: Amaryllidaceae or Liliaceae
SYNONYMS: Common garlic, allium, poor man’s treacle!
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A strongly scented perennial herb up to 1.2 metres high with long, flat, firm leaves and whitish flowering stems. The bulb is made up of several cloves pressed together within a thin white skin.
DISTRIBUTION: It is said to have originated in south west Siberia and then spread to Europe and Central Asia. It is naturalized in North America and cultivated worldwide. Major oil-producing countries include Egypt, Bulgaria, France, China, Germany and Japan.
OTHER SPECIES: Closely related to the wild or wood garlic (A. ursinum) also known as ‘ramsons’. There are also many other wild species with similar but less pronounced properties.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: It has been used for thousands of years for its medicinal virtues: for respiratory and urinary tract infections; digestive disorders and infestations; skin eruptions; heart disease, high blood pressure and arteriosclerosis, as well as epidemics and fever. It was used in the First World War for preventing gangrene and sepsis.
It has a high reputation in the East: in China it is used for diarrhoea, dysentery, tuberculosis, diphtheria, hepatitis, ringworm, typhoid and trachoma, among others. It is also held in high regard in the West: specific in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia for chronic bronchitis. Its properties have been attested to by modern experimental and clinical research.
ACTIONS: Amoebicidal, anthelmintic, antibiotic, antimicrobial, antiseptic, antitoxic, antitumour, antiviral, bactericidal, carminative, cholagogue, hypocholesterolemic, depurative, diaphoretic, diuretic, expectorant, febrifuge, fungicidal, hypoglycaemic, hypotensive, insecticidal, larvicidal, promotes leucocytosis, stomachic, tonic.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the fresh crushed bulbs.
CHARACTERISTICS: A colourless to pale yellow mobile liquid with a strong, unpleasant, familiar garlic-like odour.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Allicin, allylpropyl disulphide, diallyl disulphide, diallyl trisulphide, citral, geraniol, linalol, phellandrene, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Generally non-toxic and non-irritant, although it has been known to irritate the stomach; may also cause sensitization in some individuals.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE Due to its unpleasant and pervasive smell, the oil is not often used externally. However, the capsules may be taken internally according to the instructions on the label for respiratory and gastro-intestinal infections, urinary tract infections such as cystitis, heart and circulatory problems, and to fight infectious diseases in general.
OTHER USES: The oil is made into capsules and also included in many health food products mainly to help reduce high blood pressure and protect against heart disease. Extensively employed as a flavour ingredient in most major food categories, especially savouries.... garlic
FAMILY: Apiaceae (Umbelliferae)
SYNONYMS: F. officinale, F. capillaceum, Anethum foeniculum, fenkel.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: Biennial or perennial herb up to 2 metres high, with feathery leaves and golden yellow flowers. There are two main varieties of fennel: bitter or common Fennel, slightly taller with less divided leaves occurring in a cultivated or wild form and sweet fennel (also known as Roman, garden or French fennel) which is always cultivated.
DISTRIBUTION: Bitter fennel is native to the Mediterranean region, found growing wild in France, Spain, Portugal and North Africa (they produce the ‘weed’oil). It is cultivated extensively worldwide, the main oil producers being Hungary, Bulgaria, Germany, France, Italy and India.
Sweet fennel is thought to have originated on the island of Malta, having been introduced by monks or crusaders thousands of years ago. It is now grown principally in France, Italy and Greece.
OTHER SPECIES: Bitter fennel (F. vulgare var. amara) and sweet fennel (F. vulgare var. dulce) are both closely related to the Florence fennel (F. azoricum), a smaller plant with a large cylindrical fleshy root which can be eaten as a vegetable. There are also many other cultivated varieties such as the German or Saxon fennel, the Russian, Indian and Japanese fennel, all of which produce slightly different oils.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: A herb of ancient medical repute, believed to convey longevity, courage and strength. It was also used to ward off evil spirits, strengthen the eyesight and to neutralize poisons. In eastern and western herbalism it is considered good for obstructions of the liver, spleen and gall bladder and for digestive complaints such as colic, indigestion, nausea and flatulence (an ingredient of children’s ‘gripe water’).
It has traditionally been used for obesity, which may be due to a type of oestrogenic action, which also increases the milk of nursing mothers. Still current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia, used locally for conjunctivitis, blepharitis and pharyngitis.
ACTIONS: Aperitif, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, depurative, diuretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, galactagogue, laxative, orexigenic, stimulant (circulatory), splenic, stomachic, tonic, vermifuge.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation. 1. Sweet fennel oil is obtained from crushed seeds, and 2. bitter fennel oil from crushed seeds or the whole herb (the wild ‘weed’).
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. A colourless to pale yellow liquid with a very sweet, anise-like, slightly earthy-peppery scent. It blends well with geranium, lavender, rose and sandalwood. 2. The seed oil is a pale yellow liquid with a sharp, warm camphoraceous odour; the ‘weed’ oil is pale orange-brown with a sharp, peppery-camphoraceous odour.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Anethole (50–60 per cent), limonene, phellandrene, pinene, anisic acid, anisic aldehyde, camphene, limonene, among others. In addition, bitter fennel oil contains 18–22 per cent fenchone, whereas the sweet fennel oil contains little or none.
SAFETY DATA: Non-irritant, relatively non-toxic, narcotic in large doses; bitter fennel may cause sensitization in some individuals. Sweet fennel oil is preferred in aromatherapy and perfumery work, since it does not contain the harsh ‘fenchone’ note, and because it is non-sensitizing. Bitter fennel oil should not be used on the skin at all, although it is considered superior medicinally. Neither oil should be used by epileptics or during pregnancy. Use in moderation.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE Bitter fennel – none.
Sweet fennel:
Skin Care: Bruises, dull, oily, mature complexions, pyorrhoea.
Circulation Muscles And Joints: Cellulitis, obesity, oedema, rheumatism.
Respiratory System: Asthma, bronchitis.
Digestive System: Anorexia, colic, constipation, dyspepsia, flatulence, hiccough, nausea.
Genito-Urinary System: Amenorrhoea, insufficient milk (in nursing mothers), menopausal problems.
OTHER USES: In pharmaceutical products it is known as ‘codex’ fennel oil, used in cough drops, lozenges, etc; also used in carminative and laxative preparations. Extensively used as a flavour ingredient in all major food categories, in soft drinks and especially in alcoholic drinks such as brandy and liqueurs. Fennel oil (mainly sweet) is used in soaps, toiletries and perfumes. It also provides a good masking agent for industrial products, room sprays, insecticides, etc.... fennel
FAMILY: Moraceae
SYNONYMS: Common hop, European hop, lupulus.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: Perennial creeping, twining herb up to 8 metres high, which bears male and female flowers on separate plants. It has dark green, heart-shaped leaves and greeny yellow flowers. A volatile oil, called lupulin, is formed in the glandular hairs of the cones or ‘strobiles’.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to Europe and North America; cultivated worldwide, especially in the USA (California and Washington), Yugoslavia and Germany. The oil is mainly produced in France, UK and Germany.
OTHER SPECIES: Related to the common stinging nettle (Urtica dioica) and to the fig (Ficus carica).
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Best known as a nerve remedy, for insomnia, nervous tension, neuralgia, and also for sexual neurosis in both sexes. It supports the female oestrogens, and is useful for amenorrhoea (heavy periods). ‘A mild sedative, well known in the form of the hop pillow where the heavy aromatic odour has been shown to relax by direct action at the olfactory centres … it is the volatile aromatic component that appears to be the most active.’. It has also been used for heart disease, stomach and liver complaints, including bacterial dysentery.
In China it is used for pulmonary tuberculosis and cystitis. It is used to make beer. Current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for restlessness with nervous headaches and/or indigestion.
ACTIONS: Anodyne, an aphrodisiac, antimicrobial, antiseptic, antispasmodic, astringent, bactericidal, carminative, diuretic, emollient, oestrogenic properties, hypnotic, nervine, sedative, soporific.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the dried cones or catkins, known as ‘strobiles’. (An absolute is also produced by solvent extraction for perfumery use.)
CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow to reddish-amber liquid with a rich, spicy-sweet odour. It blends well with pine, hyacinth, nutmeg, copaiba balsam, citrus and spice oils.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly humulene, myrcene, caryophyllene and farnesene, with over 100 other trace components.
SAFETY DATA: Generally non-toxic (narcotic in excessive amounts) and non-irritant; may cause sensitization in some individuals. Should be avoided by those suffering from depression.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
SKIN CARE: Dermatitis, rashes, rough skin, ulcers.
RESPIRATORY SYSTEM: Asthma, spasmodic cough.
DIGESTIVE SYSTEM: Indigestion, nervous dyspepsia.
GENITO-URINARY AND ENDOCRINE SYSTEMS: Amenorrhoea, menstrual cramp, supports female oestrogens, promotes feminine characteristics, reduces sexual overactivity.
NERVOUS SYSTEM: Headaches, insomnia, nervous tension, neuralgia, stress-related conditions.
OTHER USES: Employed as a fragrance ingredient in perfumes, especially spicy or oriental types. Used in flavour work in tobacco, sauces and spice products, but mainly in alcoholic drinks, especially beer.... hops
FAMILY: Zingiberaceae
SYNONYMS: Common ginger, Jamaica ginger.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: An erect perennial herb up to 1 metre high with a thick, spreading, tuberous rhizome root, which is very pungent. Each year it sends up a green reedlike stalk with narrow spear-shaped leaves and white or yellow flowers on a spike direct from the root.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to southern Asia, extensively cultivated all over the tropics in Nigeria, the West Indies, India, China, Jamaica and Japan. Most oil is distilled in the UK, China and India.
OTHER SPECIES: Several varieties according to location which are all used to produce oils with slight variations in their constitiuents; for example the African oil is generally darker. Another member of the same family, galangal (Alpinia officinarum), is also known as ginger root or Chinese ginger.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Ginger has been used as a domestic spice and as a remedy for thousands of years, especially in the East. Fresh ginger is used in China for many complaints including rheumatism, bacterial dysentery, toothache, malaria, and for cold and moist conditions such as excess mucus and diarrhoea.
It is best known as a digestive aid, especially in the West: in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia it is specifically indicated for flatulent intestinal colic. Preserved and crystallized ginger is a popular sweet, in the East and West.
ACTIONS: Analgesic, anti-oxidant, antiseptic, antispasmodic, antitussive, aperitif, aphrodisiac, bactericidal, carminative, cephalic, diaphoretic, expectorant, febrifuge, laxative, rubefacient, stimulant, stomachic, tonic.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the unpeeled, dried, ground root. (An absolute and oleoresin are also produced for use in perfumery.)
CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow, amber or greenish liquid with a warm, slightly green, fresh, woody-spicy scent. It blends well with sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, frankincense, rosewood, cedarwood, coriander, rose, lime, neroli, orange and other citrus oils.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Gingerin, gingenol, gingerone, zingiberine, linalol, camphene, phellandrene, citral, cineol, borneol, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant (except in high concentration), slightly phototoxic; may cause sensitization in some individuals.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Circulation Muscles And Joints: Arthritis, fatigue, muscular aches and pains, poor circulation, rheumatism, sprains, strains etc.
Respiratory System: Catarrh, congestion, coughs, sinusitis, sore throat.
Digestive System: Diarrhoea, colic, cramp, flatulence, indigestion, loss of appitite, nausea, travel sickness.
Immune System: Chills, colds, ’flu, fever, infectious disease.
Nervous System: Debility, nervous exhaustion.
OTHER USES: The oleoresin is used in digestive, carminative and laxative preparations; used as a fragrance component in cosmetics and perfumes, especially oriental and men’s fragrances; extensively employed in all major food categories, alcoholic and soft drinks.... ginger
FAMILY: Lauraceae
SYNONYMS: L. citrata, ‘may chang’, exotic verbena, tropical verbena.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A small tropical tree with fragrant, lemongrass-scented leaves and flowers. The small fruits are shaped like peppers, from which the name ‘cubeba’ derives.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to east Asia, especially China; cultivated in Taiwan and japan. China is the main producer of the oil, much of which is used by the Chinese themselves.
OTHER SPECIES: Despite its folk names, this plant is not related to lemon verbena (Aloysia triphylla). It belongs to the same family as the laurel tree, rosewood and cinnamon.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: It is planted as a wind breaker in China.
ACTIONS: Antiseptic, deodorant, digestive, disinfectant, insecticidal, stimulant, stomachic.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the fruits.
CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow mobile liquid with an intense, lemony, fresh-fruity odour (sweeter than lemongrass but less tenacious).
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly citral (up to 85 per cent).
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization in some individuals.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Acne, dermatitis, excessive perspiration, greasy skin, insect repellent, spots.
Digestive system: Flatulence, indigestion.
Immune system: Epidemics, sanitation.
OTHER USES: Extensively used as a fragrance component in air fresheners, soaps, deodorants, colognes, toiletries and perfumes. Employed in flavouring work, especially fruit products. It serves as a source of natural ‘citral’ all over the world.... litsea cubeba
FAMILY: Ericaceae
SYNONYMS: Ledum, Labrador tea, marsh tea, swamp tea, bog Labrador tea, rusty Labrador tea, Hudson’s Bay tea (formerly Ledum groenlandicum).
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: This beautiful, hardy plant is a shrub belonging to the heather family, which can reach one metre in height. It is recognizable by its thick, leathery evergreen leaves whose edges coil under and are quite unique, being deep green on top with a downy-fuzz beneath. New leaves have a woolly mat of white hairs underneath; mature leaves have reddish hairs. All leaves are dotted with resinous glands and are fragrant, with a pungent scent, when crushed. The fluffy white flowers, which are borne in spring, are also strongly aromatic.
DISTRIBUTION: The plant is native to North America, from Greenland and Labrador across to Alaska, as far north as the treeline. It is absent from the far North and the dry prairies. The Latin name groenlandicum refers to the fact that it grows in Greenland where it is still widespread, often growing in dense colonies.
OTHER SPECIES: Ledum is a genus name, which includes 8 species of evergreen shrubs native to cool temperate and sub-arctic regions of the Northern Hemisphere, commonly known as Labrador tea. The common name Ledum is also applied to Rhododendron tomentsum subsp. subarcticum (formerly L. decumbens) which is known as Northern Labrador tea. This species, which is similar but slightly smaller, grows farther north on tundra at up to 1,800 metres and contains toxic alkaloids known to be poisonous to livestock. It lacks the characteristic fuzz on the underside of the mature leaves and the flowers of L. groenlandicum.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: This strongly aromatic herb has been used in folk medicine for centuries. Brewed as a medicinal beverage known as Labrador tea, it was used by practically all Canada’s First Nations peoples as a tonic and to treat certain respiratory, digestive and kidney ailments; as a remedy for headaches and various types of rheumatism; and to facilitate childbirth. The herbal tea also served to clean wounds and was applied to insect bites. It is said that the plant was used for over 5,000 years by the native people of North America, to protect themselves from scurvy, and the Cree used it for fevers and colds: indeed it was regarded as a ‘cure-all’ by the indigenous people. In the fur-trading era, the French Canadian coureurs-de-bois used Labrador tea to extend their supplies of black tea: it thus became a substitute for unaffordable Chinese tea during times of economic crisis. However, like other plants in the heather family, Greenland moss contains an andromedo-toxin that can cause poisoning if used in excess.
According to recent clinical trials, Greenland moss essential oil has a natural affinity for the immune system and can be an effective immune system supporter. The oil also helps counteract blood toxicity and aids liver regeneration, valuable in cases of liver intoxication originating from circulation disorders, viral hepatitis, enteritis and cirrhosis (fatty liver). Clinical research suggests that the essential oil functions like an enzyme in the liver, digesting toxic waste and fat molecules. It is also indicated for obesity, oedema, water retention and thyroid regulation. The oil has also been studied at the University of Quebec, and was found to be a strong antioxidant and natural anti-inflammatory: it also showed anticancer activity against colon carcinoma and lung carcinoma cells.
ACTIONS: Analgesic, antibacterial, anticancerous, antiviral, anti-inflammatory, anti-tumoral, antispasmodic, antioxidant, anti-infectious, antiseptic, carminative, cicatrizing, decongestant, digestive tonic, immune support, liver support, stomachic, tonic.
EXTRACTION: Greenland moss oil is extracted by steam distillation from the leaves.
CHARACTERISTICS: A clear, pale-yellow liquid, with a fresh-herbaceous, medicinal and slightly sweet aroma and earthy-woody undertones.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: The main chemical constituents are limonene (up to 35 per cent), sabinene, selinene, bornyl acetate with other monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes.
SAFETY DATA: Possible skin sensitization: always dilute for topical use. Avoid during pregnancy and by children. NB: Abusive consumption of the tea derived from its leaves may cause indigestion, and may even have a toxic effect due to the high level of tannins that it contains.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin Care: Allergies, skin problems.
Circulation Muscles And Joints: Aching muscles and joints.
Respiratory System: Colds, coughs, bronchitis, hoarseness, influenza, laryngitis.
Digestive System: Addictions, alcoholism, allergies, cellulite, fatty liver, hepatitis (viral), hypothyroid, liver problems (toxic liver, support and detoxifier), lymph nodes (inflamed), obesity, thyroid regulation and water retention.
Immune System: Tonic and immune support.
Nervous System: Anxiety, nervous debility tension.
OTHER USES: The plant is still used as a local ‘tea plant’ in parts of the Northern Hemisphere.... greenland moss
FAMILY: Lauraceae
SYNOYNMS Ho oil, ho-wood il, shiu oil, ho-leaf oil.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall, tropical evergreen tree, quite dense with small white flowers and black berries, which grows up to 30 metres in height. This is the same tree that produces camphor comes from the wood of the tree.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to China, Japan, Taiwan and south-east Asia. It is now cultivated in many tropical and sub-tropical countries including India, Australia, Madagascar and parts of the USA where it has naturalized.
OTHER SPECIES: Cinnamomum camphora is a large genus with many subspecies which yield a volatile oil on distillation, including ho oil (wood and leaf), camphor, apopin, sassafras and ravintsara. All these essential oils, although derived from the same principal botanical species, differ in their chemical profile enormously depending on their country of origin as well as the part of the plant used to extract the oil. There are thus many different subvarieties of the camphor tree found throughout Asia, for example the Yu-sho in China and the Sho-guy variety found in Taiwan. Ho (wood and leaf) oil is derived both from the Hon-sho and Ho-sho varieties growing mainly in Japan and Taiwan. This variety has linalool as its major constituent.
Rosewood (Aniba rosaedora), a native tree of the Amazon, also yields an oil very rich in linalool. However, rosewood became endangered due to over-harvesting and although plantations have since been planted, it will take time for the trees to mature. Rosewood oil and ho wood oil are very similar in nature, and since ho wood is more renewable, it is increasingly used as a replacement for the former. However, ho leaf oil, distilled from the leaves of C. camphora, is gradually beginning to replace ho wood oil in aromatherapy usage, because its scent is smoother, containing hardly any camphor-like notes.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Ho wood has traditionally been used for making the handles of Japanese swords and knives because it is soft and will not scratch the blades. It is also used nowadays for ornamental parts of houses, carpentry and cabinet making, as it is of a very similar beauty to rosewood. Ho wood oil became very popular in Taiwan during the 1900s as a linalool-rich product, locally referred to as shiu oil. C. camphora was also heavily exploited as a source of camphor in Japan and Taiwan until World War II.
The high ‘linalool’ content makes Ho oil a potent immune system stimulant (good for infections such as cold or ’flu) as well as a powerful relaxant or sedative … soothing yet uplifting in effect. Recent studies also suggest that the oil may play a role as a cellular stimulant and tissue regenerator, being beneficial for complaints associated with the skin.
ACTIONS: Analgesic, anti-fungal, anti-infectious, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, antiseptic, antispasmodic, bactericidal, immune support, sedative, tonic. It is also believed to be a mild aphrodisiac.
EXTRACTION: Steam distilled from the leaves (ho leaf oil) and wood (ho wood oil)
CHARACTERISTICS: Ho wood oil is a pale yellow liquid with a soft, warm, floral, spicy-woody scent with a slightly camphor-like undertone. The leaf oil has a sweet-fresh, green-floral and woody scent. It blends well with basil, bergamot, cedarwood, chamomile, lavender, lime, geranium, juniper, neroli, petitgrain, myrtle, sandalwood, ylang ylang and spice oils.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Ho (wood and leaf) oil contains up to 99 per cent linalool, with traces of limonene, myrcene, gamma-terpinene and other components. Ho wood oil generally contains higher levels of cineol. Japanese ho oil ‘A’ quality has a linalool content of 94 per cent or more; a ‘B’ grade has 85–90 per cent linalool.
SAFETY DATA: It is non-toxic and non-irritant but with possible sensitization in some individuals.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin Care: Acne, cuts, dermatitis, stretch marks, scars, wounds & general skin care: dry, oily, mature and sensitive skin.
Circulation Muscles And Joints: Aches and pains caused by inflammation.
Respiratory System: Chills, coughs and colds, ’flu.
Immune System: Low libido and frigidity: boosts vitality.
Nervous System: Anxiety, depression, insomnia, nervous tension, stress.
OTHER USES: The use of C. camphora as a source of ho leaf and wood oil has expanded in recent years and it is now an important source of natural linalool (which is still preferred over the synthetic form) for some fragrance applications in the perfumery industry. Indeed, ho leaf and wood oil has largely displaced the use of rosewood as a source of natural linalool. It is also an effective insect repellent.... ho wood
FAMILY: Rutaceae
SYNONYMS: C. limonum, cedro oil.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A small evergreen tree up to 6 metres high with serrated oval leaves, stiff thorns and very fragrant flowers. The fruit turns from green to yellow on ripening.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to Asia, probably east India; it now grows wild in the Mediterranean region especially in Spain and Portugal. It is cultivated extensively worldwide in Italy, Sicily, Cyprus, Guinea, Israel, South and North America (California and Florida).
OTHER SPECIES: There are about forty-seven varieties which are said to have been developed in cultivation, such as the Java lemon (C. javanica). The lemon is also closely related to the lime, cedrat (or citron) and bergamot.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The juice and peel are widely used as a domestic seasoning. It is very nutritious, being high in vitamins A, B and C. In Spain and other European countries, lemon is something of a ‘cure-all’, especially with regard to infectious illness. It was used for fever, such as malaria and typhoid, and employed specifically for scurvy on English ships at sea.
Taken internally, the juice is considered invaluable for acidic disorders, such as arthritis and rheumatism, and of great benefit in dysentery and liver congestion.
ACTIONS: Anti-anaemic, antimicrobial, antirheumatic, antisclerotic, antiscorbutic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, antitoxic, astringent, bactericidal, carminative, cicatrisant, depurative, diaphoretic, diuretic, febrifuge, haemostatic, hypotensive, insecticidal, rubefacient, stimulates white corpuscles, tonic, vermifuge.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by cold expression from the outer part of the fresh peel. A terpeneless oil is also produced on a large scale (cedro oil).
CHARACTERISTICS: A pale greeny-yellow liquid (turning brown with age), with a light, fresh, citrus scent. It blends well with lavender, neroli, ylang ylang, rose, sandalwood, olibanum, chamomile, benzoin, fennel, geranium, eucalyptus, juniper, oakmoss, lavandin, elemi, labdanum and other citrus oils.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Limonene (approx. 70 per cent), terpinene, pinenes, sabinene, myrcene, citral, linalol, geraniol, octanol, nonanol, citronellal, bergamotene, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic; may cause dermal irritation or sensitization reactions in some individuals – apply in moderation. Phototoxic do not use on skin exposed to direct sunlight.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Acne, anaemia, brittle nails, boils, chilblains, corns, cuts, greasy skin, herpes, insect bites, mouth ulcers, spots, varicose veins, warts.
Circulation muscles and joints: Arthritis, cellulitis, high blood pressure, nosebleeds, obesity (congestion), poor circulation, rheumatism.
Respiratory system: Asthma, throat infections, bronchitis, catarrh.
Digestive system: Dyspepsia.
Immune system: Colds, ’flu, fever and infections.
OTHER USES: Used as a flavouring agent in pharmaceuticals. Extensively used as a fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics, toilet waters and perfumes. Extensively employed by the food industry in most types of product, including alcoholic and soft drinks.... lemon
FAMILY: Apiaceae (Umbelliferae)
SYNONYMS: Angelica levisticum, Ligusticum levisticum, smellage, maggi herb, garden lavage, common lavage, old English lavage, Italian lavage, Cornish lovage.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A large perennial herb up to 2 metres high with a stout hollow stem and dense ornamental foliage. It has a thick fleshy root and greenish-yellow flowers. The whole plant has a strong aromatic scent.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to southern Europe and western Asia; naturalized in North America. It is cultivated in central and southern Europe, especially in France, Belgium, Czechoslovakia, Hungary, Yugoslavia and Germany.
OTHER SPECIES: Several related plants are also used to produce essential oils, such as sea lavage (Ligusticum scoticum) and alpine lavage (L. mutellina).
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: A herb of ancient medical repute, used mainly for digestive complaints, oedema, skin problems, menstrual irregularities and fever. It was also believed to be good for the sight. The leaf stalks used to be blanched and used as a vegetable or in salads. The root is current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for flatulent dyspepsia and anorexia.
ACTIONS: Antimicrobial, antiseptic, antispasmodic, diaphoretic, digestive, diuretic, carminative, depurative, emmenagogue, expectorant, febrifuge, stimulant (digestive), stomachic.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from 1. the fresh roots, and 2. the herb – fresh leaves and stalks.
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. An amber or olive brown liquid with a rich, spicy-warm, root-like odour. 2. A very pale yellow mobile liquid with a spicy, warm odour and sweet-floral undertone. It blends well with rose, galbanum, costus, opopanax, oakmoss, bay, lavandin and spice oils.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly phthalides (up to 70 per cent) such as butylidene, dihydrobutylidene, butylphthalides and ligostilides, with lesser amounts of terpenoids, volatile acids, coumarins and furocoumarins.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization/phototoxic effects. Use with care. Avoid during pregnancy.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Circulation muscles and joints: Accumulation of toxins, congestion, gout, oedema, poor circulation, rheumatism, water retention.
Digestive system: Anaemia, flatulence, indigestion, spasm.
Genito-urinary system: Amenorrhoea, dysmenorrhoea, cystitis.
OTHER USES: The root oil is used as a fragrance component in soaps, cosmetics and perfumes. The oils and extracts are used as savoury flavouring agents and in liqueurs and tobacco.
ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, digestive, diuretic (mild), laxative (mild), sedative, stimulant (digestive and lymphatic), tonic.... lovage
FAMILY: Poaceae (Gramineae)
SYNONYMS: 1. Andropogon citratus, A. schoenathus, West Indian lemongrass, Madagascar lemongrass, Guatemala lemongrass. 2. A. flexuosus, Cymbopogon flexuosus, East Indian lemongrass, Cochin lemongrass, native lemongrass, British India lemongrass, ‘vervaine Indienne’ or France Indian verbena.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A fast-growing, tall, aromatic perennial grass up to 1.5 metres high, producing a network of roots and rootlets that rapidly exhaust the soil.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to Asia, there are two main types: 1. The West Indian lemongrass which is probably native to Sri Lanka, now cultivated mainly in the West Indies, Africa and tropical Asia. Main oil producers include Guatemala and India 2. The East Indian lemongrass, which is native to east India (Travancore, etc.), now mainly cultivated in western India!
OTHER SPECIES: There are several varieties of lemongrass of which the East Indian and the West Indian types are the most common. Chemotypes within each variety are also quite pronounced.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Employed in traditional Indian medicine for infectious illness and fever; modern research carried out in India shows that it also acts as a sedative on the central nervous system. It is also used as an insecticide and for flavouring food. After the distillation process, the exhausted grass is used locally to feed cattle.
ACTIONS: Analgesic, antidepressant, antimicrobial, antioxidant, antipyretic, antiseptic, astringent, bactericidal, carminative, deodorant, febrifuge, fungicidal, galactagogue, insecticidal, nervine, sedative (nervous), tonic.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the fresh and partially dried leaves (grass), finely chopped.
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. A yellow, amber or reddish-brown liquid with a fresh, grassy-citrus scent and an earthy undertone. 2. A yellow or amber liquid with a fresh, grassy-lemony scent, generally lighter than the West Indian type.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: 1. Citral (65–85 per cent), myrcene (12–25 per cent), dipentene, methylheptenone, linalol, geraniol, nerol, citronellol and farnesol, among others. 2. Citral (up to 85 per cent), geraniol, methyl eugenol, borneol, dipentene; constituents vary according to type.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, possible dermal irritation and/or sensitization in some individuals – use with care.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Acne, athlete’s foot, excessive perspiration, insect repellent (fleas, lice, ticks), open pores, pediculosis, scabies, tissue toner.
Circulation muscles and joints: Muscular pain, poor circulation and muscle tone, slack tissue.
Digestive system: Colitis, indigestion, gastro enteritis.
Immune system: Fevers, infectious disease.
Nervous system: Headaches, nervous exhaustion and stress-related conditions.
OTHER USES: Extensively used as a fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics and perfumes. Employed as a flavour ingredient in most major food categories including alcoholic and soft drinks. Also used for the isolation of citral and for the adulteration of more costly oils such as verbena or melissa.... lemongrass
FAMILY: Anacardiaceae
SYNONYMS: Mastick tree, mastick, mastix, mastich, lentisk.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A small bushy tree or shrub up to 3 metres high, which produces a natural oleoresin from the trunk. Incisions are made in the bark in order to collect the liquid oleoresin, which then hardens into brittle peasized lumps.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Mediterranean region (France, Spain, Portugal, Greece, Turkey) and also found in North Africa. Most mastic is produced on the Greek Island of Chios; some is also produced in Algeria, Morocco and the Canary Islands.
OTHER SPECIES: It belongs to the same family as Peruvian pepper or Peruvian mastic (Schinus molle). Mastic resembles the resin ‘sanderach’ but unlike the latter it can be chewed, rather than turning to powder.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: In the East it is used for the manufacture of sweets and cordials; it is still used medicinally for diarrhoea in children and is chewed to sweeten the breath. The oil was used in the West in a similar way to turpentine – ‘It has many of the properties of coniferous turpentines and was formerly greatly used in medicine.’.
ACTIONS: Antimicrobial, antiseptic, antispasmodic, astringent, diuretic, expectorant, stimulant.
EXTRACTION: 1. A resinoid is produced by solvent extraction from the oleoresin, and 2. an essential oil is produced by steam distillation from the oleoresin or occasionally directly from the leaves and branches.
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. A pale amber or greenish viscous mass with a faint balsamic turpentine-like odour. 2. A pale yellow mobile liquid with a fresh balsamic turpentine-like odour. It blends well with lavender, mimosa, citrus and floral oils.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly monoterpene hydrocarbons – mostly pinenes.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization in some individuals.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE See turpentine.
OTHER USES: Used in dentistry and in the production of varnish. The resinoid and oil are employed in high-class colognes and perfumes, and used as a flavouring agent, especially in liqueurs.... mastic
FAMILY: Lamiaceae (Labiatae)
SYNONYMS: Lemon balm, common balm, bee balm, sweet balm, heart’s delight, honey plant.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A sweet-scented herb about 60 cms high, soft and bushy, with bright green serrated leaves, square stems and tiny white or pink flowers.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to the Mediterranean region, now common throughout Europe, Middle Asia, North America, North Africa and Siberia. Mainly cultivated in France, Spain, Germany and Russia.
OTHER SPECIES: Several varieties, e.g. a variegated leaf type, common in gardens.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: One of the earliest known medicinal herbs – Paracelsus called it the ‘Elixir of Life’. It was associated particularly with nervous disorders, the heart and the emotions. It was used for anxiety, melancholy, etc, and to strengthen and revive the vital spirit. Generally employed for digestive and respiratory complaints of nervous origin such as asthma, indigestion and flatulence. It also helps to regulate the menstrual cycle and promote fertility. Effective remedy for wasp and bee stings. In France the leaves are still used a great deal in pharmaceutical and herbal products. Current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia for flatulent dyspepsia, neurasthenia and depressive illness.
ACTIONS: Antidepressant, antihistaminic, antispasmodic, bactericidal, carminative, cordial, diaphoretic, emmenagogue, febrifuge, hypertensive, insect-repellent, nervine, sedative, stomachic, sudorific, tonic, uterine, vermifuge.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the leaves and flowering tops.
CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow liquid with a light, fresh lemony fragrance. It blends well with lavender, geranium, floral and citrus oils.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Citral, citronellol, eugenol, geraniol, linalyl acetate, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Available information indicates non-toxic. Possible sensitization and dermal irritation: use in low dilutions only. Care must also be taken because this is one of the most frequently adulterated oils. Most commercial so-called ‘melissa’ contains some or all of the following: lemon; lemongrass or citronella.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Allergies, insect bites, insect repellent. ‘Melissa in very low concentration is a very valuable oil indeed in treating eczema and other skin problems.’.
Respiratory system: Asthma, bronchitis, chronic coughs.
Digestive system: Colic, indigestion, nausea.
Genito-urinary system: Menstrual problems.
Nervous system: Anxiety, depression, hypertension, insomnia, migraine, nervous tension, shock and vertigo.
OTHER USES: Occasionally used in pharmaceutical preparations. Used extensively as a fragrance component in toiletries, cosmetics and perfumes. Employed in most major food categories including alcoholic and soft drinks.... melissa
FAMILY: Lamiaceae (Labiatae)
SYNONYMS: Field mint, Japanese mint.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A rather fragile herb with leafy stems up to 60 cms high, lance-shaped leaves and lilac-coloured flowers borne in clustered whorls in the axils of the upper leaves.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to Europe and parts of Asia (Japan and China); naturalized in North America. Major producers of the oil include China, Brazil, Argentina, India and Vietnam.
OTHER SPECIES: There are many varieties and chemotypes of this herb, which is used for large-scale oil production, such as the Chinese type M. arvensis var. glabrata, and the Japanese species M. arvensis var. piperascens.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: It is used therapeutically in many of the same ways as peppermint; the bruised leaves are applied to the forehead to relieve nervous headache. In the East it is used to treat rheumatic pain, neuralgia, toothache, laryngitis, indigestion, colds and bronchitis. In Chinese medicine, it is also employed for relieving earache, treating tumours and some skin conditions.
ACTIONS: Anaesthetic, antimicrobial, antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, cytotoxic, digestive, expectorant, stimulant, stomachic.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the flowering herb. The oil is usually dementholized since it contains so much menthol that it is otherwise solid at room temperature.
CHARACTERISTICS: Dementholized oil – a colourless or pale yellow liquid with a strong, fresh, bitter-sweet minty odour, somewhat like peppermint.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Menthol (70–95 per cent), menthane (10–20 per cent), pinene, menthyl acetate, isomenthone, thujone, phellandrene, piperitone and menthofuran, among others. Constituents vary according to source.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant (except in concentration); may cause sensitization in some individuals. Menthol is a dermal irritant.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE None. Use peppermint in preference, since it is not fractionated like the commercial cornmint oil and has a more refined fragrance.
OTHER USES: Used in some pharmaceutical preparations, such as cough lozenges, herb teas and syrups, mainly in the form of menthol. Extensively employed in soaps, toothpastes, detergents, cosmetics, perfumes and especially industrial fragrances. Used by the food industry especially for flavouring confectionery, liqueurs and chewing gum. However, it is mainly used for the isolation of natural menthol.... mint, cornmint
FAMILY: Lamiaceae (Labiatae)
SYNONYMS: Brandy mint, balm mint.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A perennial herb up to 1 metre high with underground runners by which it is easily propagated. The ‘white’ peppermint has green stems and leaves; the ‘black’ peppermint has dark green serrated leaves, purplish stems and reddish-violet flowers.
DISTRIBUTION: Originally a cultivated hybrid between M. viridis and M. aquatica, known to have been propagated from before the seventeenth century in England. Naturalized throughout Europe and America, it is cultivated worldwide. The oil is produced mainly in France, England, America, Russia, Bulgaria, Italy, Hungary, Morocco and China.
OTHER SPECIES: There are several different strains or chemotypes of peppermint. In addition there are numerous other species of mint, such as spearmint, apple mint, pennyroyal, water mint and pineapple mint – some of which are used to produce essential oils (see Botanical Classification section). Peppermints grown in northern regions, including the Mitcham peppermint, are considered of superior quality.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Mints have been cultivated since ancient times in China and Japan. In Egypt evidence of a type of peppermint has been found in tombs dating from 1000 BC. It has been used extensively in Eastern and Western medicine for a variety of complaints, including indigestion, nausea, sore throat, diarrhoea, headaches, toothaches and cramp.
It is current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia for intestinal colic, flatulence, common cold, vomiting in pregnancy and dysmenorrhoea.
ACTIONS: Analgesic, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antiphlogistic, antipruritic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, antiviral, astringent, carminative, cephalic, cholagogue, cordial, emmenagogue, expectorant, febrifuge, hepatic, nervine, stomachic, sudorific, vasoconstrictor, vermifuge.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the flowering herb (approx. 3–4 per cent yield).
CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow or greenish liquid with a highly penetrating, grassy-minty camphoraceous odour. It blends well with benzoin, rosemary, lavender, marjoram, lemon, eucalyptus and other mints.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Menthol (29–48 per cent), menthane (20–31 per cent), menthyl acetate, menthofuran, limonene, pulegone, cineol, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant (except in concentration), possible sensitization due to menthol. Use in moderation.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Acne, dermatitis, ringworm, scabies, toothache.
Circulation muscles and joints: Neuralgia, muscular pain, palpitations.
Respiratory system: Asthma, bronchitis, halitosis, sinusitis, spasmodic cough – ‘When inhaled (in steam) it checks catarrh temporarily, and will provide relief from head colds and bronchitis: its antispasmodic action combines well with this to make it a most useful inhalation in asthma.’.
Digestive system: Colic, cramp, dyspepsia, flatulence, nausea.
Immune system: Colds, ’flu, fevers.
Nervous system: Fainting, headache, mental fatigue, migraine, nervous stress, vertigo.
OTHER USES: Flavouring agent in pharmaceuticals, and ingredient in cough, cold and digestive remedies. Flavouring agent in many foods, especially chewing gum and sweets, alcoholic and soft drinks; also widely used to flavour tobacco. Fragrance component in soaps, toothpaste, detergents, cosmetics, colognes and perfumes.... mint, peppermint
FAMILY: Pinaceae
SYNONYMS: Longleaf yellow pine, southern yellow pine, pitch pine, pine (oil).
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall evergreen tree with long needles and a straight trunk, grown extensively for its timber. It exudes a natural oleoresin from the trunk, which provides the largest source for the production of turpentine in America – see also entry on turpentine.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to south eastern USA, where the oil is largely produced.
OTHER SPECIES: There are numerous other species of pine all over the world which are used to produce pine oil, as well as pine needle and turpentine oil – see Botanical Classification section.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Pine sawdust has been used for centuries as a highly esteemed household remedy for a variety of ailments. ‘It is a grand, gentle, although powerful external antiseptic remedy, applied as a poultice in rheumatism when localised, hard cancerous tumours, tuberculosis in the knee or ankle joints, disease of the bone, in short, all sluggish morbid deposits ... I have used it behind the head for failing sight, down the spine for general debility, on the loins for lumbago, etc. all with the best results.’.
ACTIONS: Analgesic (mild), antirheumatic, antiseptic, bactericidal, expectorant, insecticidal, stimulant.
EXTRACTION: The crude oil is obtained by steam distillation from the sawdust and wood chips from the heartwood and roots of the tree (wastage from the timber mills), and then submitted to fractional distillation under atmospheric pressure to produce pine essential oil.
CHARACTERISTICS: A water-white or pale yellow liquid with a sweet-balsamic, pinewood scent. It blends well with rosemary, pine needle, cedarwood, citronella, rosewood, ho leaf and oakmoss.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Terpineol, estragole, fenchone, fenchyl alcohol and borneol, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic; non-irritant (except in concentration); possible sensitization in some individuals.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Circulation muscles and joints: Arthritis, debility, lumbago, muscular aches and pains, poor circulation, rheumatism, stiffness, etc.
Respiratory system: Asthma, bronchitis, catarrh, sinusitis.
OTHER USES: Used extensively in medicine, particularly in veterinary antiseptic sprays, disinfectants, detergents and insecticides (as a solvent carrier). Employed as a fragrance component in soaps, toiletries, bath products and perfumes. Also used in paint manufacture although it is increasingly being replaced by synthetic ‘pine oil’.... pine, longleaf
FAMILY: Liliaceae
SYNONYMS: Common onion, Strasburg onion.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A perennial or biennial herb up to 1.2 metres high with hollow leaves and flowering stem, and a globelike fleshy bulb.
DISTRIBUTION: Native of western Asia and the Middle East, it has a long history of cultivation all over the world, mainly for culinary use. The essential oil is mainly produced in France, Germany and Egypt from the ‘red’ onion.
OTHER SPECIES: There are numerous species of onion which have been developed, which include the Spanish or silver-skinned onion, the Tripoli and the red onion. See also Botanical Classification.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Onion has an ancient reputation as a curative agent, highly extolled by the schools of Galen and Hippocrates. It is high in vitamins A, Band C and shares many of the properties of garlic, to which it is closely related. Raw onion helps to keep colds and infections at bay, promotes strong bones and a good blood supply to all the tissues. It acts as an effective blood cleanser which, along with the sulphur it contains, helps to keep the skin clear and in good condition. It has a sound reputation for correcting glandular imbalance and weight problems; it also improves lymphatic drainage which is often responsible for oedema and puffiness.
Onion has long been used as a home ‘simple’ for a wide range of conditions: ‘As a poultice they are invaluable for the removal of hard tumours. In this form they afford relief in cases of suppressed gout or obstructed circulation ... Onions tend to soothe the nerves and induce sleep. They stimulate the action of the skin and remove obstructions of the viscera ... raw onions, bruised are good for burns and scalds in the absence of other remedies ... applied to the sting or bite of any poisonous insect often proves all that is desired.’ .
ACTIONS: Anthelmintic, antimicrobial, antirheumatic, antiseptic, antisclerotic, antispasmodic, antiviral, bactericidal, carminative, depurative, digestive, diuretic, expectorant, fungicidal, hypocholesterolaemic, hypoglycaemic, hypotensive, stomachic, tonic, vermifuge.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the bulb. (An oleoresin is also produced in small quantities for flavouring use.)
CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellow or brownish-yellow mobile liquid with strong, unpleasant, sulphuraceous odour with a lachrymatory (tear-producing) effect.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly dipropyl disulphide, also methylpropyl disulphide, dipropyl trisulphide, methylpropyl trisulphide and allylpropyl disulphide, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Specific safety data unavailable at present – probably similar to garlic, i.e. generally non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE None, due to its offensive smell.
OTHER USES: Used in some pharmaceutical preparations for colds, coughs, etc. The oil is extensively used in most major food categories, especially meats, savouries, salad dressings, as well as alcoholic and soft drinks. It is not used in perfumery work.... onion
FAMILY: Hamamelidaceae
SYNONYMS: Balsam styracis, oriental sweetgum, Turkish sweetgum, asiatic styrax, styrax, storax, liquid storax.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A deciduous tree up to 15 metres high with a purplish-grey bark, leaves arranged into five three-lobed sections, and white flowers. The styrax is a pathological secretion produced by pounding the bark, which induces the sapwood to produce a liquid from beneath the bark. It hardens to form a semi-solid greenish-brown mass with a sweet balsamic odour.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to Asia Minor. It forms forests around Bodrum, Milas, Mugla and Marmaris in Turkey.
OTHER SPECIES: Very similar to the American styrax (L. styraciflua) or red gum, which produces a natural exudation slightly darker and harder than the Levant type. There are also many other types of styrax; Styrax officinale produced the styrax of ancient civilizations. NB: Styrax benzoin is the botanical name for benzoin, with which it shares similar qualities.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: In China it is used for coughs, colds, epilepsy and skin problems, including cuts, wounds and scabies. In the West it has been recommended as a remedy for catarrh, diphtheria, gonorrhoea, leucorrhoea, ringworm, etc. A syrup made from the bark of the American styrax is used for diarrhoea and dysentery in the western USA.
ACTIONS: Anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antiseptic, antitussive, bactericidal, balsamic, expectorant, nervine, stimulant.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the crude. (A resinoid and absolute are also produced by solvent extraction).
CHARACTERISTICS: A water-white or pale yellow liquid with a sweet-balsamic, rich, tenacious odour. It blends well with ylang ylang, jasmine, mimosa, rose, lavender, carnation, violet, cassie and spice oils.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly styrene with vanillin, phenylpropyl alcohol, cinnamic alcohol, benzyl alcohol and ethyl alcohol, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization in some individuals. Frequently adulterated.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Cuts, ringworm, scabies, wounds.
Respiratory system: Bronchitis, catarrh, coughs.
Nervous system: Anxiety, stress-related conditions.
OTHER USES: Used in compound benzoin tincture, mainly for respiratory conditions. The oil and resinoid are used as fixatives and fragrance components mainly in soaps, floral and oriental perfumes. The resinoid and absolute are used in most major food categories, including alcoholic and soft drinks.
ACTIONS: Anthelmintic, antispasmodic, bactericidal, carminative, diaphoretic, emmenagogue, fungicidal, stomachic.... styrax, levant
FAMILY: Pinaceae
SYNONYMS: Forest pine, Scots pine, Norway pine, pine needle (oil).
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall evergreen tree, up to 40 metres high with a flat crown. It has a reddish-brown, deeply fissured bark, long stiff needles which grow in pairs, and pointed brown cones.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to Eurasia; cultivated in the eastern USA, Europe, Russia, the Baltic States and Scandinavia, especially Finland.
OTHER SPECIES: Like the fir tree, there are numerous species of pine which yield an essential oil from their heartwood as well as from their twigs and needles and are also used to produce turpentine. The oil from the needles of the Scotch pine is one of the most useful and safest therapeutically. Other species which produce pine needle oil include the eastern white pine (P. strobus) from the eastern USA and Canada, the dwarf pine (P. mugo var. pumilio) grown in central and southern Europe, and the black pine (P. nigra) from Austria and Yugoslavia.
Many varieties, such as the longleaf pine (Pinus palustris), are used to produce turpentine. In addition, the oil commonly known as Siberian pine needle oil is actually from the Siberian fir (Abies sibirica). See also dwarf pine and the Botanical Classification section.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The young macerated shoots are added to the bath for nervous exhaustion, circulatory disorders, slow, healing wounds, arthritis, rheumatism and skin disorders. It was used by the American Indians to prevent scurvy, and to stuff mattresses to repel lice and fleas.
As an inhalation it helps relieve bronchial catarrh, asthma, blocked sinuses, etc. The pine kernels are said to be excellent restoratives for consumptives, and after long illness.
ACTIONS: Antimicrobial, antineuralgic, antirheumatic, antiscorbutic, antiseptic (pulmonary, urinary, hepatic), antiviral, bactericidal, balsamic, cholagogue, choleretic, deodorant, diuretic, expectorant, hypertensive, insecticidal, restorative, rubefacient, stimulant (adrenal cortex, circulatory, nervous), vermifuge.
EXTRACTION: 1. Essential oil by dry distillation of the needles. 2. Gum turpentine is produced by steam distillation from the oleoresin: see entry on turpentine. (An inferior essential oil is also produced by dry distillation from the wood chippings, etc.)
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. Pine needle oil is a colourless or pale yellow mobile liquid with a strong, dry-balsamic, turpentine-like aroma. It blends well with cedarwood, rosemary, tea tree, sage, lavender, juniper, lemon, niaouli, eucalyptus and marjoram. 2. See entry on turpentine.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: 50–90 per cent monoterpene hydrocarbons: pinenes, carene, dipentene, limonene, terpinenes, myrcene, ocimene, camphene, sabinene; also bornyl acetate, cineol, citral, chamazulene, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant (except in concentration), possible sensitization. Avoid in allergic skin conditions.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Cuts, lice, excessive perspiration, scabies, sores.
Circulation muscles and joints: Arthritis, gout, muscular aches and pains, poor circulation, rheumatism.
Respiratory system: Asthma, bronchitis, catarrh, coughs, sinusitis, sore throat.
Genito-urinary system: Cystitis, urinary infection.
Immune system: Colds, ’flu.
Nervous system: Fatigue, nervous exhaustion and stress-related conditions, neuralgia.
OTHER USES: Used as a fragrance component in soaps, detergents, cosmetics, toiletries (especially bath products) and, to a limited extent, perfumes. Employed as a flavour ingredient in major food products, alcoholic and soft drinks.... pine, scotch
FAMILY: Myrtaceae
SYNONYMS: Narrow-leaved paperbark tea tree, ti-tree, ti-trol, melasol.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A small tree or shrub (smallest of the tea tree family), with needle-like leaves similar to cypress, with heads of sessile yellow or purplish flowers.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to Australia. Other varieties have been cultivated elsewhere, but M. alternifolia is not produced outside Australia, mainly in New South Wales.
OTHER SPECIES: Tea tree is a general name for members of the Melaleuca family which exists in many physiological forms including cajeput (M. cajeputi) and niaouli (M. viridiflora), and many others such as M. bracteata and M. linariifolia – see Botanical Classification section.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The name derives from its local usage as a type of herbal tea, prepared from the leaves. Our present knowledge of the properties and uses of tea tree is based on a very long history of use by the aboriginal people of Australia. It has been extensively researched recently by scientific methods with the following results: ‘1. This oil is unusual in that it is active against all three varieties of infectious organisms: bacteria, fungi and viruses. 2. It is a very powerful immuno-stimulant, so when the body is threatened by any of these organisms ti-tree increases its ability to respond.’ .
ACTIONS: Anti-infectious, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antiviral, bactericidal, balsamic, cicatrisant, diaphoretic, expectorant, fungicidal, immuno-stimulant, parasiticide, vulnerary.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam or water distillation from the leaves and twigs.
CHARACTERISTICS: A pale yellowy-green or water-white mobile liquid with a warm, fresh, spicy-camphoraceous odour. It blends well with lavandin, lavender, clary sage, rosemary, oakmoss, pine, cananga, geranium, marjoram, and spice oils, especially clove and nutmeg.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Terpinene-4-ol (up to 30 per cent), cineol, pinene, terpinenes, cymene, sesquiterpenes, sesquiterpene alcohols, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization in some individuals.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Abscess, acne, athlete’s foot, blisters, burns, cold sores, dandruff, herpes, insect bites, oily skin, rashes (nappy rash), spots, verrucae, warts, wounds (infected).
Respiratory system: Asthma, bronchitis, catarrh, coughs, sinusitis, tuberculosis, whooping cough.
Genito-urinary system: Thrush, vaginitis, cystitis, pruritis.
Immune system: Colds, fever, ’flu, infectious illnesses such as chickenpox.
OTHER USES: Employed in soaps, toothpastes, deodorants, disinfectants, gargles, germicides and, increasingly, in aftershaves and spicy colognes.... tea tree
FAMILY: Zingiberaceae
SYNONYMS: Z. montanum, Z. cassumunar ‘Roxburgh’, Z. purpureum ‘Roscoe’, cassumunar ginger.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: The root of this tropical perennial plant is tuberous, with long fleshy fibres and jointed appendages, much like ginger but slightly larger. The fresh rhizome, which is yellow inside, has a cool, green, camphoraceous, spicy-warm scent. The stem is made of green leaf sheathes which are grass-like with brownish-purple pointed shoots bearing pale yellow flowers.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to Thailand, Indonesia and India: it is now commonly found throughout Asia. Since plai is an important medicinal plant in Thailand, there are many regions where plai is cultivated and there are now at least three native varieties or sub-species found in Thailand.
OTHER SPECIES: There are several sub-species (and essential oil chemotypes) of plai depending on the location of the plant from which it has been extracted. Essential oil produced from rhizomes grown in the north-west region is the most typical from Thailand and contains almost as much terpinen-4-ol as tea tree oil. Terpinen-4-ol has been well researched, and is to known to activate white blood cells: it also has significant antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal properties. Oil produced from the central region contains more sabinene. Zingiber cassumunar is a close relative of ginger and galangal, both of which are used to produce essential oils.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Zingiber cassumunar is widely used in folklore remedies as a single plant or as component of herbal recipes in Thailand and many Asian countries for the treatments of conditions, such as inflammation, sprains and strains, rheumatism and muscular pain. Although it is derived from the same plant family as ginger (Zingiber officinale), it does not possess the classic warming effect common to ginger. Instead, plai has a cooling action on inflamed areas, making it an excellent choice for treating injuries, post-operative pain and all types of muscular and joint pain such as torn muscles and ligaments as well as conditions such as arthritis and rheumatism. For this reason, plai has long been regarded by Thai massage therapists as one of the most essential oils to have at their disposal. Although generally diluted with a carrier oil, it can be applied directly to the skin when treating areas of severe pain or inflammation that are close to the surface of the skin. It is reported to ease pain for up to 16–20 hours – it is even used by Thai boxers for pain relief!
Used in skin care, the oil exhibits good antioxidant properties and is used in Thai culture to treat stretch marks and scars; also to heal wounds. Plai herbal compound is used traditionally in the form of a poultice and decoction for the treatment of a range of digestive disorders including colic, constipation, diarrhoea, flatulence, nausea heartburn. Zingiber cassumunar is also a traditional Thai remedy for respiratory conditions, including asthma, catarrh, colds and coughs, fever and influenza.
ACTIONS: Analgesic, antioxidant, antibacterial, antimicrobial, antihistamine, antineuralgic, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antispasmodic, antitoxic, antiviral, carminative, digestive, diuretic, febrifugal, laxative, rubefacient, rejuvenating, stimulant, tonic, vermifuge.
EXTRACTION: Steam distilled from the fresh rhizome (roots) of the Plai plant (Zingiber cassumunar).
CHARACTERISTICS: The oil is a pale amber colour with a fresh, herbaceous, spicy-green scent and a resinous, slightly floral undertone. It will blends well with black pepper, bergamot, ginger, grapefruit, lemongrass, lime, jasmine, lavender, neroli, petitgrain, rosemary, sandalwood and tea tree.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: The main active chemical constituents of the oil are terpinen-4-ol (up to 49 per cent) sabinene (up to 45 per cent), DMPBD (up to per cent), g-terpinene and a-terpinene – depending on the source of the oil.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritating and non-sensitizing. Best to check for any possible sensitization due to variants in chemo-types available.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Acne, cuts, stretch marks, scars, wounds.
Circulation muscles and joints: All types of aches and pains caused by inflammation, including arthritis and rheumatism, cramp, gout, joint problems, muscle spasm, sprains and strains, torn muscles and ligaments as well as post-operative pain.
Digestive system: Cramps, colic, constipation, diarrhea, flatulence, indigestion, heartburn.
Respiratory system: Asthma, catarrh, chronic colds, bronchitis, congestion, fever, flu, sinusitis.
Genito-urinary system: Menstrual cramps.
Immune system: Stimulates the immune system and boosts vitality.
Nervous system: Anxiety, nervous tension, stress.
OTHER USES: The fresh rhizome or powdered root is much used in traditional Thai cuisine. The oil is used in the pharmaceutical industry, for example, in mosquito repellant formulations.... plai
FAMILY: Lauraceae
SYNONYMS: Cinnamomum camphora ct. 1,8-cineole.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: Cinnamomum camphora is a tall evergreen tropical tree characteristic of the Laurel family that grows up to 20–30 metres tall. The foliage is bright green and the leaves have a glossy, waxy appearance bearing masses of small white flowers in spring. It produces clusters of shiny black berries and has a pale bark that is very rough and fissured vertically.
DISTRIBUTION: C. camphora is native to China, Japan, and Taiwan but has been introduced to many countries throughout the world including India, Australia and the USA, where in places such as Florida it is becoming increasingly invasive and a danger to the native flora. This species is not indigenous to Madagascar and was introduced onto the island during the middle of the nineteenth century. As the plant became accustomed to the Malagasy climate it became a distinct subspecies, which in time adapted so well to the new environment, naturalizing in the central-eastern regions, that it became a very sustainable species for producing an essential oil, now called ravintsara oil. However, since it is clear there are many different sub-varieties of C. camphora in various parts of the world, it is possible that there also existed another native aromatic tree already growing in Madagascar originally known as ravintsara by the local people. According to Georges M. Halpern in The Healing Trail: Essential Oils of Madagascar, an indigenous tree of this name had been part of the Malagasy culture for many centuries and its leaves were used as a traditional folk medicine.
OTHER SPECIES: The genus Cinnamomum has approximately 250 different species, many of which yield an essential oil on distillation. Amongst the most important are C. zeylanicum (cinnamon bark and leaf oils) and C. cassia (cassia oil). The single species C. camphora itself produces a wide range of essential oils including: camphor, ho wood and leaf oil, sassafras and ravintsara. All these essential oils, although derived from the same tropical tree or botanical species, differ in their chemical profile enormously depending on the country of origin as well as the part of the plant used to extract the oil: e.g. leaf or bark.
There are at least 6 different chemotypes of C. camphora essential oil due to this factor, including the camphor, linalool, 1,8-cineole, nerolidol, safrole and borneol types. For example, C. camphora, grown in Taiwan and Japan, is known as Ho oil, and has linalool as its major constituent, whereas in India and Sri Lanka the camphor type of C. camphora remains the most important. The variety of C. camphora cultivated in Madagascar contains high levels of 1,8-cineole and no camphor. In order to avoid any confusion, it has been suggested that Ravintsara should be labelled: ‘Cinnamomum camphora ct. 1,8-cineole.’
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: The term Cinnamomum is derived from the Greek root kinnamon or kinnamomon meaning ‘sweet wood’. The word ravint means leaf and sara means ‘good for you’ according to the Malagasy tradition, as the local people have long appreciated the therapeutic value of its leaves which were used in folk medicine to treat digestive complaints, headaches, colds and chest infections. It has also been used for culinary applications and employed as a herbal tea. The Malagasy people themselves believe that the original Ravintsara tree is an indigenous species: a ‘cousin’ of the well-known C. camphora species, which has since been introduced.
ACTIONS: Antibacterial, anticatarrhal, antifungal, anti-infectious, antimicrobial, antirheumatic, antiviral, decongestant, cicatrisant (wound healer), expectorant, immune and neurotonic.
EXTRACTION: Steam distilled from the leaves of the plant.
CHARACTERISTICS: Fresh, woody, slightly floral, balsamic, eucalyptus-like scent. It blends well with eucalyptus, rosemary, bay, frankincense, cardamon, pine, cypress, juniper and citrus oils.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Ravintsara is akin to Eucalyptus globulus oil (as both are particularly effective for respiratory infections) due to its high 1,8-cineole content ranging from 45–55 per cent. Other major constituents include monoterpenes (sabinene 15 per cent, alpha-pinene and beta-pinene), sesquiterpenes (beta-carophyllene), monoterpenic alcohols (alpha-terpineol 7 per cent and terpineol) and esters (terpenyl acetate).
NOTE: Ravintsara essential oil contain at least 45 per cent 1,8-cineole compared to approximately 5 per cent found in Ravensara aromatica oil.
SAFETY DATA: Ravintsara oil is generally very well tolerated by the majority of the population, although like eucalyptus, it can cause sensitization in some individuals and should be used in moderation.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Shingles, herpes, verrucas, warts and athletes foot.
Circulation muscles and joints: Aching muscles and joints.
Respiratory system: Coughs, colds, influenza and other respiratory ailments such as asthma, bronchitis, sinusitis, laryngitis, otitis, tonsillitis and whooping cough.
Immune system: Viral infections especially air-borne infections.
Nervous system: Nervous debility
OTHER USES: Ravintsara oil is produced in a ‘pharmaceutical grade’ for the chemical and perfumery industry.... ravintsara
FAMILY: Lamiaceae (Labiatae)
SYNONYMS: T. aestivus, T. ilerdensis, T. webbianus, T. valentianus, French thyme, garden thyme, red thyme (oil), white thyme (oil).
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A perennial evergreen subshrub up to 45 cms high with a woody root and much-branched upright stem. It has small, grey-green, oval, aromatic leaves and pale purple or white flowers.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to Spain and the Mediterranean region; now found throughout Asia Minor, Algeria, Turkey, Tunisia, Israel, the USA, Russia, China and central Europe. The oil is mainly produced in Spain but also in France, Israel, Greece, Morocco, Algeria, Germany and the USA.
OTHER SPECIES: There are numerous varieties of thyme – the common thyme is believed to have derived from the wild thyme or mother-of-thyme (T. serpyllum), which is also used to produce an essential oil called serpolet, similar in effect to the common thyme oil.
Another species used for the production of the so-called red thyme oil is particularly the Spanish sauce thyme (T. zygis), a highly penetrating oil good for cellulitis, sports injuries, etc. (although, like the common thyme, it is a skin irritant). Other species used for essential oil production include lemon thyme (T. citriodorus), a fresh scented oil good for asthma and other respiratory conditions, safe for children. Spanish marjoram (T. Mastichina) is actually botanically classified as a variety of thyme, with which it shares many common properties, despite its common name. Spanish marjoram contains mainly 1,8-cineole (up to 75 per cent) and linalool (up to 20 per cent), so therapeutically has much in common with eucalyptus, being well suited to treating viral and bacterial respiratory infections. See also Botanical Classification section.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: One of the earliest medicinal plants employed throughout the Mediterranean region, well known to both Hippocrates and Dioscorides. It was used by the ancient Egyptians in the embalming process, and by the ancient Greeks to fumigate against infectious illness; the name derives from the Greek thymos meaning ‘to perfume’. It is also a long-established culinary herb, especially used for the preservation of meat.
It has a wide range of uses, though in Western herbal medicine its main areas of application are respiratory problems, digestive complaints and the prevention and treatment of infection. In the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia it is indicated for dyspepsia, chronic gastritis, bronchitis, pertussis, asthma, children’s diarrhoea, laryngitis, tonsillitis and enuresis in children.
ACTIONS: Anthelmintic, antimicrobial, antioxidant, antiputrescent, antirheumatic, antiseptic (intestinal, pulmonary, genito-urinary), antispasmodic, antitussive, antitoxic, aperitif, astringent, aphrodisiac, bactericidal, balsamic, carminative, cicatrisant, diuretic, emmenagogue, expectorant, fungicidal, hypertensive, nervine, revulsive, rubefacient, parasiticide, stimulant (immune system, circulation), sudorific, tonic, vermifuge.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by water or steam distillation from the fresh or partially dried leaves and flowering tops. 1. ‘Red thyme oil’ is the crude distillate. 2. ‘White thyme oil’ is produced by further redistillation or rectification. (An absolute is also produced in France by solvent extraction for perfumery use.)
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. A red, brown or orange liquid with a warm, spicy-herbaceous, powerful odour. 2. A clear, pale yellow liquid with a sweet, green-fresh, milder scent. It blends well with bergamot, lemon, rosemary, melissa, lavender, lavandin, marjoram, Peru balsam, pine, etc.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Thymol and carvacrol (up to 60 per cent), cymene, terpinene, camphene, borneol, linalol; depending on the source it can also contain geraniol, citral and thuyanol, etc.
There are many chemotypes of thyme oil: notably the ‘thymol’ and ‘carvacrol’ types (warming and active); the ‘thuyanol’ type (penetrating and antiviral); and the milder ‘linalol’ or ‘citral’ types (sweet-scented, non-irritant).
SAFETY DATA: Red thyme oil, serpolet (from wild thyme), ‘thymol’ and ‘carvacrol’ type oils all contain quite large amounts of toxic phenols (carvacrol and thymol). They can irritate mucous membranes, cause dermal irritation and may cause sensitization in some individuals. Use in moderation, in low dilution only. They are best avoided during pregnancy.
White thyme is not a ‘complete’ oil and is often adulterated. Lemon thyme and ‘linalol’types are in general less toxic, non-irritant, with less possibility of sensitization – safe for use on the skin and with children.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Abscess, acne, bruises, burns, cuts, dermatitis, eczema, insect bites, lice, gum infections, oily skin, scabies.
Circulation muscles and joints: Arthritis, cellulitis, gout, muscular aches and pains, obesity, oedema, poor circulation, rheumatism, sprains, sports injuries.
Respiratory system: Asthma, bronchitis, catarrh, coughs, laryngitis, sinusitis, sore throat, tonsillitis.
Digestive system: Diarrhoea, dyspepsia, flatulence.
Genito-urinary system: Cystitis, urethritis.
Immune system: Chills, colds, ’flu, infectious diseases.
Nervous system: Headaches, insomnia, nervous debility and stress-related complaints – ‘helps to revive and strengthen both body and mind’..
OTHER USES: The oil is used in mouthwashes, gargles, toothpastes and cough lozenges. ‘Thymol’ is isolated for pharmaceutical use in surgical dressings, disinfectants etc. Used as a fragrance component in soaps, toiletries, aftershaves, perfumes, colognes, etc. Extensively employed by the food and drink industry, especially in meat products.... thyme, common
FAMILY: Zingiberaceae
SYNONYMS: C. domestica, Amomoum curcuma, curcuma, Indian saffron, Indian yellow root, curmuma (oil).
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A perennial tropical herb up to 1 metre high, with a thick rhizome root, deep orange inside, lanceolate root leaves tapering at each end, and dull yellow flowers.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to southern Asia; extensively cultivated in India, China, Indonesia, Jamaica and Haiti. The oil is mainly distilled in India, China and Japan. Some roots are imported to Europe and the USA for distillation.
OTHER SPECIES: Closely related to the common ginger (Zingiber officinale). Not to be confused with the Indian turmeric or American yellow root (Hydrastis canadensis).
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: A common household spice, especially for curry powder. It is high in minerals and vitamins, especially vitamin C. It is also used extensively as a local home medicine.
In Chinese herbalism it is used for bruises, sores, ringworm, toothache, chest pains, colic and menstrual problems, usually in combination with remedies. It was once used as a cure for jaundice.
ACTIONS: Analgesic, anti-arthritic, anti inflammatory, anti-oxidant, bactericidal, cholagogue, digestive, diuretic, hypotensive, insecticidal, laxative, rubefacient, stimulant.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the ‘cured’ rhizome – boiled, cleaned and sun-dried. (An oleoresin, absolute and concrete are also produced by solvent extraction.)
CHARACTERISTICS: A yellowy-orange liquid with a faint blue fluorescence and a fresh spicy woody odour. It blends well with cananga, labdanum, elecampane, ginger, orris, cassie, clary sage and mimosa.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly tumerone (60 per cent), with ar-tumerone, atlantones, zingiberene, cineol, borneol, sabinene and phellandrene, among others.
SAFETY DATA: The ketone ‘tumerone’ is moderately toxic and irritant in high concentration. Possible sensitization problems. ‘The essential oil of turmeric must be used in moderation and with care for a fairly limited period.’.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Circulation muscles and joints: Arthritis, muscular aches and pains, rheumatism.
Digestive system: Anorexia, sluggish digestion, liver congestion.
OTHER USES: Employed in perfumery work, for oriental and fantasy-type fragrances. The oleoresin is used as a flavour ingredient in some foods, mainly curries, meat products and condiments.... turmeric
FAMILY: Valerianaceae
SYNONYMS: V. officinalis, V. officinalis var. angustifolium, V. officinalis var. latifolia, European valerian, common valerian, Belgian valerian, fragrant valerian, garden valerian.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A perennial herb up to 1.5 metres high with a hollow, erect stem, deeply dissected dark leaves and many purplishwhite flowers. It has short, thick, greyish roots, largely showing above ground, which have a strong odour.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to Europe and parts of Asia; naturalized in North America. It is mainly cultivated in Belgium for its oil, also in France, Holland, England, Scandinavia, Yugoslavia, Hungary, China and the USSR.
OTHER SPECIES: There are over 150 species of valerian found in different parts of the world. The Eastern varieties are slightly different from the Western types: the oil from the Japanese plant called ‘kesso root’ (V. officinalis) is more woody; the oil from the Indian valerian (V. wallichii) is more musky. Also closely related to spikenard (Nardostachys jatamansi) – see entry.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: This herb has been highly esteemed since medieval times, and used to be called ‘all heal’. It has been used in the West for a variety of complaints, especially where there is nervous tension or restlessness, such as insomnia, migraine, dysmenorrhoea, intestinal colic, rheumatism, and as a pain reliever.
On the Continent the oil has been used for cholera, epilepsy and for skin complaints. In China it is used for backache, colds, menstrual problems, bruises and sores. The root is current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for ‘conditions presenting nervous excitability’. .
ACTIONS: Anodyne (mild), antidandruff, diuretic, antispasmodic, bactericidal, carminative, depressant of the central nervous system, hypnotic, hypotensive, regulator, sedative, stomachic.
EXTRACTION: 1. Essential oil by steam distillation from the rhizomes. 2. An absolute (and concrete) by solvent extraction of the rhizomes.
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. An olive to brown liquid (darkening with age) with a warm woody, balsamic, musky odour; a green topnote in fresh oils. 2. An olive-brown viscous liquid with a balsamic-green, woody, bitter-sweet strong odour. It blends well with patchouli, costus, oakmoss, pine, lavender, cedarwood, mandarin, petitgrain and rosemary.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly bornyl acetate and isovalerate, with caryophyllene, pinenes, valeranone, ionone, eugenyl isovalerate, borneol, patchouli alcohol and valerianol, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization. Use in moderation.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Nervous system: Insomnia, nervous indigestion, migraine, restlessness and tension states.
OTHER USES: Used in pharmaceutical preparations as a relaxant and in herbal teas. The oil and absolute are used as fragrance components in soaps and in ‘moss’ and ‘forest’ fragrances. Used to flavour tobacco, root beer, liqueurs and apple flavourings.... valerian
FAMILY: Pinaceae
SYNONYMS: Terebinth, therebentine, gum thus, gum turpentine, turpentine balsam, spirit of turpentine (oil).
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: ‘Gum turpentine’ is a term loosely applied to the natural oleoresin formed as a physiological product in the trunks of various Pinus, Picea and Abies species. Turpentine refers both to the crude oleoresin (a mixture of oil and resin) and to the distilled and rectified essential oils.
DISTRIBUTION: All over the world. The largest producer is the USA, also Mexico, France, Portugal, Spain, Greece, Scandinavia, New Zealand, Tasmania, India, China, the USSR, etc.
OTHER SPECIES: Apart from the longleaf pine (Pinus palustris), which is the leading source of American gum turpentine, other sources in the USA include the slash pine (P. elliottii) and the Mexican white pine (P. ayacahuite). In India the chir pine (P. roxburghii); in Tasmania the lodgepole pine (P. contorta var. latifolia); in China the masson or Southern red pine (P. massoniana); in Europe and Scandinavia the Scotch pine (P. sylvestris) and the sea pine (P. pinaster), as well as many others. See Botanical Classification section.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Known to Galen and Hippocrates for its many applications, especially with regard to pulmonary and genito-urinary infections, digestive complaints and externally as a treatment for rheumatic or neuralgic pain and skin conditions. In China the oleoresin has been used (both internally and externally) for centuries for excess phlegm, bronchitis, rheumatism, stiff joints, toothache, boils, sores, ringworm and dermatitis.
The turpentine essence or spirit of turpentine is said to be four times more active than the crude turpentine.
ACTIONS: Analgesic, antimicrobial, antirheumatic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, balsamic, diuretic, cicatrisant, counter-irritant, expectorant, haemostatic, parasiticide, rubefacient, stimulant, tonic, vermifuge.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam (or water) distillation from the crude oleoresin, then rectified. ‘It has to be purified because it is viscous, coloured and acidic.’.
CHARACTERISTICS: A colourless, water white mobile liquid with a fresh, warm balsamic, familiar odour.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Mainly alphapinene (approx. 50 per cent), betapinene (25–35 per cent) and carene (20–60 per cent) in the American oils. In European oils the alpha pinene can constitute up to 95 per cent – constituents vary according to source.
SAFETY DATA: Environmental hazard – marine pollutant. Relatively non-toxic and non-irritant; possible sensitization in some individuals. Avoid therapeutic use or employ in moderation only.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE Use with care for:
Skin care: Boils, cuts, fleas, insect repellent, lice, ringworm, scabies, wounds.
Circulation muscles and joints: Arthritis, gout, muscular aches and pains, rheumatism, sciatica.
Respiratory system: Bronchitis, catarrh, whooping cough.
Genito-urinary system: Cystitis, leucorrhoea, urethritis.
Immune system: Colds.
Nervous system: Neuralgia.
OTHER USES: Used in many ointments and lotions for aches and pains; and in cough and cold remedies. Neither oil nor oleoresin is used in perfumery work, although resin derivatives are used as fixative agents and in pine and industrial perfumes. Mainly known as a paint and stain remover, solvent and insecticide. Also used as a starting material for the production of terpineol, etc.... turpentine
FAMILY: Verbenaceae
SYNONYMS: A. citriodora, Verbena triphylla, Lippia citriodora, L. triphylla, verbena, herb Louisa.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A handsome deciduous perennial shrub up to 5 metres high with a woody stem, very fragrant, delicate, pale green, lanceolate leaves arranged in threes, and small, pale purple flowers. Often grown as an ornamental bush in gardens.
DISTRIBUTION: Native of Chile and Argentina; cultivated (and found semi-wild) in the Mediterranean region – France, Tunisia, Algeria – as well as Kenya and China. The oil is mainly produced in southern France and North Africa.
OTHER SPECIES: Botanically related to the oregano family – see Botanical Classification section. Not to be mistaken for the so-called ‘Spanish verbena’ or ‘verbena’ oil (Spanish) (Thymus hiamalis), nor confused with the herb ‘vervain’ (Verbena officinalis). This is further confused since the French name for verbena is verveine (Verveine citronelle, Verveine odorante).
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: ‘The uses of lemon verbena are similar to those of mint, orange flowers and melissa.’. It is indicated especially in nervous conditions which manifest as digestive complaints. The dried leaves are still used as a popular household tea especially on the Continent, both as a refreshing, uplifting ‘pick-me-up’ and to help restore the liver after a hang-over.
ACTIONS: Antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, detoxifying, digestive, febrifuge, hepatobiliary stimulant, sedative (nervous), stomachic.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the freshly harvested herb.
CHARACTERISTICS: A pale olive or yellow mobile liquid with a sweet, fresh, lemony, fruity-floral fragrance. It blends well with neroli, palmarosa, olibanum, Tolu balsam, elemi, lemon and other citrus oils.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Citral (30–35 per cent), nerol and geraniol, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Possible sensitization; phototoxicity due to high citral levels. Other safety data is unavailable at present – however, true verbena oil is virtually non-existent. Most so-called ‘verbena oil’ is either from the Spanish verbena (an inferior oil), or a mix of lemongrass, lemon, citronella, etc.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Digestive system: Cramps, indigestion, liver congestion.
Nervous system: Anxiety, insomnia, nervous tension and stress-related conditions.
OTHER USES: Used in perfumery and citrus colognes – ‘eau de verveine’ is still popular in France, Europe and America.... verbena, lemon
FAMILY: Violaceae
SYNONYMS: English violet, garden violet, blue violet, sweet-scented violet.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A small, tender, perennial plant with dark green, heart-shaped leaves, fragrant violet-blue flowers and an oblique underground rhizome.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to Europe and parts of Asia; cultivated in gardens worldwide. It is mainly grown in southern France (Grasse) and to a lesser extent in Italy and China for perfumery use.
OTHER SPECIES: There are over 200 species of violet; the main types cultivated for aromatic extraction are the ‘Parma’ and the ‘Victoria’ violets.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: Both the leaf and flowers have a long tradition of use in herbal medicine, mainly for congestive pulmonary conditions and sensitive skin conditions, including capillary fragility. The leaf has also been used to treat cystitis and as a mouthwash for infections of the mouth and throat. It is reported to have mild pain-killing properties, probably due to the presence of salicylic acid (as in ‘aspirin’).
The flowers are still used to make a ‘syrup of violet’ which is used as a laxative and colouring agent. The dried leaf and flowers are current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for ‘eczema and skin eruptions with serious exudate, particularly when associated with rheumatic symptoms’.
ACTIONS: Analgesic (mild), anti-inflammatory, antirheumatic, antiseptic, decongestant (liver), diuretic, expectorant, laxative, soporific, stimulant (circulation).
EXTRACTION: A concrete and absolute from 1. fresh leaves, and 2. flowers.
CHARACTERISTICS: 1. The leaf absolute is an intense dark green viscous liquid with a strong green-leaf odour and a delicate floral undertone. 2. The flower absolute is a yellowish-green viscous liquid with a sweet, rich, floral fragrance, characteristic of the fresh flowers. It blends well with tuberose, clary sage, boronia, tarragon, cumin, hop, basil, hyacinth and other florals.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Both leaves and petals contain nonadienal, parmone, hexyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, ionone and viola quercitin, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization in some individuals.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Acne, eczema, refines the pores, thread veins, wounds.
Circulation muscles and joints: Fibrosis, poor circulation, rheumatism.
Respiratory system: Bronchitis, catarrh, mouth and throat infections.
Nervous system: Dizziness, headaches, insomnia, nervous exhaustion – the scent was believed to ‘comfort and strengthen the heart’.
OTHER USES: Used in high-class perfumery work; occasionally used in flavouring, mainly confectionery.... violet
FAMILY: Asteraceae (Compositae)
SYNONYMS: Milfoil, common yarrow, nosebleed, thousand leaf – and many other country names.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A perennial herb with a simple stem up to 1 metre high, with finely dissected leaves giving a lacy appearance, bearing numerous pinky-white, dense flowerheads.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to Eurasia; naturalized in North America. Now found in most temperate zones of the world. The oil is mainly distilled in Germany, Hungary, France and Yugoslavia, also the USA and Africa.
OTHER SPECIES: A very extensive species. Other varieties include the Ligurian yarrow (A. ligustica) and the musk yarrow or iva (A. moschata), which also produces an essential oil containing mainly cineol – used in the preparation of ‘iva liquor’, a medicinal aperitif.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: An age-old herbal medicine used for a wide variety of complaints including fever, respiratory infections, digestive problems, nervous tension and externally for sores, rashes and wounds. Its use in the treatment of wounds is said to go back to Achilles who used it for injuries inflicted by iron weapons.
It is used in China mainly for menstrual problems and haemorrhoids. In Norway it is also used for rheumatism. The stalks are traditionally used for divination in the I Ching, the Chinese classic. It is current in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for thrombotic conditions with hypertension.
ACTIONS: Anti-inflammatory, antipyretic, antirheumatic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, astringent, carminative, cicatrisant, diaphoretic, digestive, expectorant, haemostatic, hypotensive, stomachic, tonic.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by steam distillation from the dried herb.
CHARACTERISTICS: A dark blue or greenish olive liquid with a fresh, green, sweet herbaceous, slightly camphoraceous odour. It blends well with cedarwood, pine, chamomile, valerian, vetiver and oakmoss.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Azulene (up to 51 per cent), pinenes, caryophyllene, borneol, terpineol, cineol, bornyl acetate, camphor, sabinene and thujone, among others. Constituents, especially azulene levels, vary according to source.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, possible sensitization in some individuals.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Acne, burns, cuts, eczema, hair rinse (promotes hair growth), inflammations, rashes, scars, tones the skin, varicose veins, wounds.
Circulation muscles and joints: Arteriosclerosis, high blood pressure, rheumatoid arthritis, thrombosis.
Digestive system: Constipation, cramp, flatulence, haemorrhoids, indigestion.
Genito-urinary system: Amenorrhoea, dysmenorrhoea, cystitis and other infections.
Immune system: Colds, fever, ’flu, etc.
Nervous system: Hypertension, insomnia, stress-related conditions.
OTHER USES: Occasionally used in pharmaceutical bath preparations for skin conditions. Limited use in perfumes and aftershaves. Employed as a flavour ingredient in vermouths and bitters.... yarrow
FAMILY: Annonaceae
SYNONYMS: Unona odorantissimum, flower of flowers.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION: A tall tropical tree up to 20 metres high with large, tender, fragrant flowers, which can be pink, mauve or yellow. The yellow flowers are considered best for the extraction of essential oil.
DISTRIBUTION: Native to tropical Asia, especially Indonesia and the Philippines. Major oil producers are Madagascar, Reunion and the Comoro Islands.
OTHER SPECIES: Very closely related to cananga (C. odoratum var. macrophylla), although the oil produced from the ylang ylang is considered of superior quality for perfumery work, having a more refined quality.
HERBAL/FOLK TRADITION: In Indonesia, the flowers are spread on the beds of newly married couples on their wedding night. In the Molucca Islands, an ointment is made from ylang ylang and cucuma flowers in a coconut oil base for cosmetic and hair care, skin diseases, to prevent fever (including malaria) and fight infections.
In the Victorian age, the oil was used in the popular hair treatment Macassar oil, due to its stimulating effect on the scalp, encouraging hair growth. The oil was also used to soothe insect bites, and is thought to have a regulating effect on cardiac and respiratory rhythm.
ACTIONS: Aphrodisiac, antidepressant, anti infectious, antiseborrhoeic, antiseptic, euphoric, hypotensive, nervine, regulator, sedative (nervous), stimulant (circulatory), tonic.
EXTRACTION: Essential oil by water or steam distillation from the freshly picked flowers. The first distillate (about 40 per cent) is called ylang ylang extra, which is the top grade. There are then three further successive distillates, called Grades 1, 2 and 3. A ‘complete’ oil is also produced which represents the total or ‘unfractionated’ oil, but this is sometimes constructed by blending ylang ylang 1 and 2 together, which are the two least popular grades. (An absolute and concrete are also produced by solvent extraction for their long-lasting floral-balsamic effect.)
CHARACTERISTICS: Ylang ylang extra is a pale yellow, oily liquid with an intensely sweet, soft, floral-balsamic, slightly spicy scent – a good oil has a creamy rich topnote. A very intriguing perfume oil in its own right, it also blends well with rosewood, jasmine, vetiver, opopanax, bergamot, mimosa, cassie, Peru balsam, rose, tuberose, costus and others. It is an excellent fixative. The other grades lack the depth and richness of the ylang ylang extra.
PRINCIPAL CONSTITUENTS: Methyl benzoate, methyl salicylate, methyl paracretol, benzyl acetate, eugenol, geraniol, linalol and terpenes: pinene, cadinene, among others.
SAFETY DATA: Non-toxic, non-irritant, a few cases of sensitization reported. Use in moderation, since its heady scent can cause headaches or nausea.
AROMATHERAPY/HOME: USE
Skin care: Acne, hair growth, hair rinse, insect bites, irritated and oily skin, general skin care.
Circulation muscles and joints: High blood pressure, hyperpnoea (abnormally fast breathing), tachycardia, palpitations.
Nervous system: Depression, frigidity, impotence, insomnia, nervous tension and stress-related disorders – ‘The writer, working with odorous materials for more than twenty years, long ago noticed that ... ylang ylang soothes and inhibits anger born of frustration.’.
OTHER USES: Extensively used as a fragrance component and fixative in soaps, cosmetics and perfumes, especially oriental and floral types; ylang ylang extra tends to be used in high-class perfumes, ylang ylang 3 in soaps, detergents, etc. Used as a flavour ingredient, mainly in alcoholic and soft drinks, fruit flavours and desserts.... ylang ylang
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